Templot Club Archive - Search Results
To search again, click the Back button in your browser.
Search results for: adjusting
704 results found.
36 pages of results.
... play with (12" wide timber- 11" wide chair), so really it's between 2 and 3". For solid cast iron 'A' chairs (which I've never seen, the blunt nose is 2.5" from centre line of the keyed jaw, and as the chair is 12" wide, there's only one place this can go on a 12" timber, so that places the blunt nose at 1 7/8" from the C/L of the A timber. 499_121151_350000000.png Luckily Templot allows me to adjust this (via real> V-crossing options> customize V-crossing> blunt nose...). posted: 12 May 2018 18:16 from: Martin Wynne Hi Richard, Interesting topic. As usual it's not easy to pin down. The general rule for REA designs is 3/4" blunt nose (BH)= 4" from centre of "A" timber, i.e. timber centre is 10" from F.P. for a 1:8 crossing. 5/8" blunt nose ...
... have enough umph in the system to do the necessary calculations and should maybe reduce dpi etc etc. I've a relatively new laptop with umph and no other applications open at the time so am thinking I might just be doing something wrong in earlier steps when 'by-passing' straightening step.... Any thoughts anyone. posted: 24 Jul 2018 16:07 from: Martin Wynne Hi Steve, The file saving instructions are simply to provide a backup of the various stages in case something goes wrong or you need to adjust something and try again. They are not part of the process and are optional. The image must have been scaled (resized) to match your model scale before you begin. If you are working with the background maps function, Templot does this for you. You can skip the straightening function if the track line in the image is already dead straight AND it is horizontal on the screen. If you do skip it, you will need to enter the wrapping offset manually: wrap13.png This is the dimension (in model ...
... time, knife and a chisel, on the other side in am not completely satisfied with how it looks. 3669_251227_440000003.jpg I draw some extra lines as a example, incl measurements, btw the depth for flange bearing is 2.5 mm 3669_251227_450000004.jpg This is the end result until now. For the guard rail to look better, i will cut some more pvc away. Those aluminium pieces are wasted aluminium, they will not be found at the garden railway.As you can see the throat width has enlarged also 3669_251252_060000000.jpg The wing rails had to be adjusted by filing the corner off, for the fact that the corner of cut also had chanced. But still matching very accurate to the printed templates. Probably i have a long way ahead of me.... Any thought idea or comment is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance, cheers posted: 25 Jun 2020 19:01 from: Martin Wynne Hi Igor, Thanks for posting the details of your project. We don't have many constructional topics for Gauge 1 track, so I'm sure there will be a lot of ...
284. New User of Templot
... short-cut printout and completely missed the F10 bit. Haven't had to use the feature in action as I use the group move (thanks for the short-cuts by the way) if I have to. Cheers. Phil posted: 2 Dec 2010 17:19 from: couzenss Martin, The Y point I referred above was made using the Approximation method (1) I have now looked at the improvisation method (2) and I can see the aim of generating a centre line first to set the crossing( adjust the second radii until the fine point marker (arrow 3) is exactley aligned)but I cannot workout how to achieve the first step "peg on a straight centre-line only plain track template". I only seem to get a centre line and no plain track to set the turnout against Thanks for your help Stuart posted: 2 Dec 2010 17:51 from: Martin Wynne couzenss wrote: I have now looked at the improvisation method (2) and I can see the aim of generating a centre line ...
... topic: 1303 Another new user of Templot posted: 9 Dec 2010 11:33 from: Tim Chapman The drawing pad on 74b has the following menu headings: control generator track geometry adjust tools pad print help but your "create a track plan" tutorial headings are different: control generator template real geometry action do tools pad print help When trying to use your "create a track plan" tutorial instructions, the different headings stop my progress when I want to "insert a turnout in plain track". Your tutorial's arrow goes to "template" but I can't do that because I do not have that heading and none of the other headings has "insert a turnout in plain track" in their menu. Is there a version of this tutorial that is compatible with 74b please? Tim posted: 9 Dec 2010 11:56 from: Martin Wynne Hi Tim, Welcome to Templot Club.____ The static "track plan tutorial" is at: http://www.templot.com/martweb/tut5a.htm and uses version 074b of ...
286. 3D again?
... shall have to change to 0.4mm and test it before releasing the Templot update with this, because most users will be using that size. I realise a lot more would be possible on industrial FDM printers, but that's not where we are -- the idea is for Templot users to be able to make their track on a home 3D printer. *extra faff on a machine such as the BIBO with dual fixed nozzles. Because the nozzles must be exactly level with each other -- and you can't do that simply by adjusting the bed. Unless both nozzles are new and unused, there is a no easy way to measure them, because there is always a small drip of extruded polymer remaining at the tip, which can't be removed without damaging the tip. cheers, Martin. posted: 14 Feb 2020 02:47 from: Andrew Barrowman Martin Wynne wrote: There's no intention to replace metal rail. The idea is to provide an alternative for those who don't like trackbuilding and/or layout wiring, and are happy to use radio control ...
... http://screencast.com/t /0awuIDZ3h regards, Martin. posted: 27 Apr 2008 05:38 from: russ Thanks!, I'll have a go at it! posted: 27 Apr 2008 06:54 from: Martin Wynne russ wrote: Thanks!, I'll have a go at it! Hi Russ, There's an alternative way of doing it using overlaid partial templates. Create the check rail by reducing the track gauge by an amount which is the flangeway gap plus the rail width. For: easy to adjust and see what you are getting. Against: template can't have curving adjusted afterwards without starting again; check rail doesn't have end flares. Here's a Jing video showing this method: http://screencast.com/t /CaJAGEeaR5 You could mix both methods, using the first method to create each end of the check rail. regards, Martin. posted: 27 Apr 2008 23:47 from: russ Thanks again!- it was just out of interest really as you dont really need the checkrail on the template for ...
... 3710 Turnout road check rail lengths+ tags disappearing posted: 26 Jun 2020 19:06 from: Paul Boyd Hi Martin I think I've found a bug or two! Box file attached. Firstly, when extending the check rails near or beyond the ends of the turnout, main road or turnout road, the label for the end of the check rail disappears and there doesn't seem to be a way to get it back other than doing a "reset all". (Unless it still happens to be the one currently being adjusted, of course) Secondly, on the turnout or diamond road, we can't always extend the check rails very far, and this seems to be inconsistent. On the box file, DS2 has been extended as far as it'll go, and the label has been lost. This does only seem to affect the turnout or diamond side, I've extended main side check rails for miles to get check-railed plain track (and blanked of the turnout itself!) The specific example where I discovered this was on an outside ...
... you (perhaps it should?), and you can use either option with whichever timbering style you prefer or in accordance with your prototype. If you want a guide line along the timber ends, the easiest way is to create a dummy template and change the rail-top width setting (real> rails> rail section data...) to a silly dimension. For P4, S7, etc., that dimension is 25.75" for 9ft timbering and 22.75" for 8ft-6in timbering. For other gauges adjust these dimensions accordingly. Then you can omit all rails except the stock rails (do> omit rails and joint marks), and in the generator settings you can change to generating the rail outer edges only. The result is as in the screenshot above. Store this as a dummy template behind the one you are working on, with or without the timbering as appropriate. regards, Martin. posted: 7 Apr 2008 23:12 from: Stewart McSporran Hi Martin, Thanks for the reply. I can see how ...
290. Wrapped background
... the image being displayed on the right (see attached jpeg). What am i doing wrong please? An earlier scan (from A3) worked OK Attachment: attach_411_629_wrapped_background .JPG 170 posted: 16 Nov 2008 21:45 from: Martin Wynne Hi Rod, Which version of Windows are you using? Is this on a Mac computer? Does the .bmp image display correctly in other programs and graphics editors? What happens if you click the picture content> reload... button and reload the image? What happens if you adjust the size or scale of the picture shape outline using the mouse actions? What happens if you zoom in much larger? regards, Martin. posted: 17 Nov 2008 23:15 from: newport_rod Thanks for your quick reply Martin, this is what I found: Which version of Windows are you using? XP Is this on a Mac computer? No Does the .bmp image display correctly in other programs and graphics editors? Yes (e.g. Paint, Alsee, Photoshop) What happens if you click the picture content ...
... topic: 3252 Creating custom gauge/track settings posted: 2 Apr 2018 10:11 from: chrisveitch I'm trying to create custom track settings but basically I don't know where to start. What I'm after is 9mm gauge, 3.5mm scale track with a specific sleeper size, using HOe/N standards but with Code 40 rail. I can get as far as editing one of the Custom gauges, but can't find a way of adjusting rail width, sleeper length etc. Any help would be appreciated. Regards, Chris Veitch posted: 2 Apr 2018 13:12 from: Martin Wynne chrisveitch wrote: I'm trying to create custom track settings but basically I don't know where to start. What I'm after is 9mm gauge, 3.5mm scale track with a specific sleeper size, using HOe/N standards but with Code 40 rail. I can get as far as editing one of the Custom gauges, but can't find a way of adjusting rail width, sleeper length etc. Any help would be appreciated. Hi Chris, Narrow-gauge is easy ...
... the full paper size as set, and do not allow for any printer margins. They expect the PDF Reader/Printer program to fit the page to the printer's printable area. If you do that, the templates won't be the correct size. Instead, select or create a smaller custom paper size in deskPDF which will fit within the printer's printable area. You should be able to measure the printable area on the prints you have. Then make sure to select page scaling= none when printing. Alternatively, you can make adjustments in Templot to use less than the full deskPDF page -- see the print> trim margins> set custom trim margins... menu item and also read the notes at print> trim margins>? trim margins help menu item. Whatever you do with PDFs, make sure you check view them in Adobe Reader or Foxit Reader before sending them for expensive printing. In the next Pug version of Templot you will be able to create PDF files directly, and precisely set the page size to anything you wish. ...
... all the various commands and they will very quickly become second nature. The Peg is pretty well fundamental to everything in Templot. It is used to define the point about which any actions take place. For example, the eight surplus sleepers you have under your slip can be removed by selecting the plain track to the control (ie highlight if on the background then select "wipe to control" from the context menu. You will see the peg as the red target. If you then hit F4, (or select "adjust turnout overall length" from the Action>mouse action geometry> menu)and you move the mouse, you will see that the track lengths/shortens from the OTHER end. If you move the peg to the opposite end (by clicking on the numeral in the red box at the top left of the screen- Cycle Peg Position)you will add to/subtract from the end where the peg was. (To be a bit more sophisticated, you could then "Roll Rails and Sleepers" to match the ...
294. Wooden point motors
... day with this one Cheers, Andy posted: 25 Jul 2020 09:55 from: Martin Wynne Andrew Barrowman wrote: I completely agree. But if all you want to do is exert a force, why do you need two weights when you can achieve exactly the same result with one? Hi Andy, I'm not sure you can. If you use tension in the operating cord to pull the points over against a single falling weight return, the points aren't trailable when so held over. And it needs some very careful adjustment to the operating cord to hold them against the stock rail with the right amount of force. The beauty of this design is that you can use any old bit of string to lift the weight from the operating crank. The points are held either way by the weights only, and are trailable both ways. cheers, Martin. posted: 25 Jul 2020 18:12 from: Andrew Barrowman Martin Wynne wrote: Andrew Barrowman wrote: I completely agree. But if all you want to do is exert a force, ...
... the trim margins. Click either the PRINT> PAGE ORIENTATION/ ORIGIN> SET PAGE ORIGIN... menu item to enter the new page origin position directly, or the ACTION> MOUSE ACTIONS:PAD> MOVE PAGE ORIGIN menu item (SHIFT+ CTRL-F10) to move the page origin with the mouse. Likewise when printing the entire pad drawing at a reduced size, the printing size can be changed by mouse action to achieve a convenient fit to the pages. Click the ACTION> MOUSE ACTIONS:PAD> ADJUST PRINT SIZE menu item. The page outlines on the pad will change accordingly. -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- --- regards, Martin. posted: 10 Apr 2008 06:48 from: Martin Wynne jeckardt wrote: The other issue I'm having with the straight turnout is that the diverging rails end at a vertical slice to the pad. They should be cut perpendicular to each other, ...
296. 0-14
... 2ft-6in should really be 17.5mm gauge. In America 0 scale means 1:48, so 2ft-6in should really be 5/8"= 15.9mm gauge. Narrow-gauge modellers have the happy knack of skating over such discrepancies. regards, Martin. posted: 12 Mar 2008 01:26 from: Thor Lawrence Ian Everett asked: How does 16.5mm gauge in 7mm scale translate to "On30"? It doesn't. However, under the terms of our collective modellers' licence, we are allowed to "adjust" matters to our individual satisfaction. 0n30 implies 0 scale on the equivalent of 30 inch track. 30 inch= 2.5 feet. At 7 mm/ft, that gives a track gauge of 17.5 mm. Hmmm. There are no commercial track parts available (AFAIK) for 17.5 mm gauge track. Right let us invoke Modellers' licence. All together now, raise your pints and say "Use standard 00/H0 track, and we promise to buy a pint for them wot can tell the difference. Cheers ...
... an appropriate place for this but I seem to have the opposite problem. No matter what I do I can't get the notch under a group to "stick" to the current template as shown in "notch-loco-depot.avi". Please throw me a lifebelt. Hi Godfrey, To make the notch "stick" to the control template, click the geometry> notch> link notch to template at peg menu item. Then move the peg to somewhere else, usually the other end. Then for any mouse action adjustments to the control template, the notch will remain sticking to the control template, and possibly taking a linked group with it, as shown in the video. Note that this applies only for mouse actions -- so that you can see the effect of the adjustments as you make them. Other direct changes made to the control template via the menus won't carry the notch with them. In that case you can easily put the peg where you want it afterwards, and the notch under it, when you are ready. ...
... . Or is it the other way round? I have printed out the template and it looks perfectly OK to me, but it may not be correct, I've ended up putting the shorter switch by the 1:7 crossing. Last edited on 23 Jun 2020 11:52 by Julian Roberts posted: 23 Jun 2020 12:30 from: Martin Wynne Hi Julian, The slip switches provided in Templot are intended to be used adjacent to V-crossings of similar angle. In each case the switch front length has been adjusted to ensure adequate clearance for the moving switch blades between the wing rail fronts, when pegged onto the TCP and MCP positions. They are merely suggestions of course. You can use any switch you like in a slip, if it fits better. If you are creating a slip to a specific prototype you would obviously want to use switches corresponding to those of the prototype railway company. For an irregular slip, you will probably need to use make simple link or make transition link on the slip roads to get a good ...
... Left-hand turnout in 0-MF, I set a 9ft switch for such a short turnout as there are no REA switches short enough. That's at template> switch settings... menu item. The main road is set to a negative radius of -1524mm (60") as required. For a such a short turnout it is almost certain that you want a curviform V-crossing -- click the indicator to C. More about that at: http://templot.com/companion/real_track.php Then adjust the V-crossing angle (F9 mouse action) until the required turnout radius is showing in the info panel. The answer was 1:3.57 RAM for the nearest to1676.4mm without going into 3 places of decimals on the crossing angle. On the prototype it would be 1:3.5 or 1:3.75 but that might vary your turnout radius more than you want. Ask again if you need more. I have attached the .box file below. I left a bit of approach and exit track on it to better show ...
... in line on the resulting crossing. Hi Rob, Do you mean the knuckle bends in the wing rails are not opposite each other? Before adding the wing rails, check that the vee nose is correctly gauged from the stock rails, and equidistant between them. Then make sure that the angle of the bend in the wing rail exactly matches the crossing angle on the vee. Check by sliding the wing rail through the gauge tools up against the vee and seeing that it is properly flush against the side of the vee. Adjust the bend as necessary. Then slide the rail back just far enough to drop in the crossing-flangeway gauge strip without force but also without any freedom: 2_221146_430000000.png If you do both wing rails this way, the knuckle bends should align. The templates show the knuckle bend as a sharp bend, but it doesn't need to be sharp. Many prototype designs have a radiused knuckle bend, with the result that the knuckle gap is wider than the crossing flangeway. If you replicate this it will be less noticeable if the ...
Search took 0.122 seconds
Back to Templot Club