Templot Club Archive - Search Results
To search again, click the Back button in your browser.
Search results for: adjusting
704 results found.
36 pages of results.
... locos to work on EM gauge is some of the ready made kit built locos. Just to show EM gauge locos do not need to be expensive I have a kit built Cotswold LMS 3F, It has a solid brass milled chassis with Romford wheels, and will be a doddle to convert. It has an Airfix/MW MRRC 5 pole motor 1 Remove the wheels 2 fit 40 thou plasticard sides to the chassis, one at a time and drill the axle holes as you go 3 Replace the wheels using Romford axles 4 Adjust the pickup wipers A quick and easy conversion, at a minimal expense, I have done the same with a K's pannier tank. And I am now partway through an EM gauge conversion of a K's Adams Radial, but I an fitting a High Level Slimline plus gear box with a Mashima motor, these probably doubled the cost of the loco, so still at a modest cost If required it is now an easy job fitting Gibson plastic brake shoes and Mainly Trains brake rigging Last edited on 20 Jan 2019 11:53 ...
302. Videos
... plain track and geometry> straight menu items. regards, Martin. posted: 4 Feb 2010 12:08 from: Martin Wynne Kenneth Beckett wrote: 2. Early into the video a mouse action is used described as F3/F4 plain-track length. The Templot Function Key Chart I have printed out makes no mention of multiple mouse actions of this nature. Is this from a later version of Templot? Hi Ken, If you look at the bottom of the 074b chart you will see this note: "To adjust the length of plain track either F3 or F4 can be used." For a turnout template F3 and F4 are two different functions, but for plain track templates they both do the same thing and you can use either. regards, Martin. posted: 4 Feb 2010 12:20 from: Martin Wynne Kenneth Beckett wrote: 3. A little later a mouse action described as F10 swell curving is used. On the Templot Function Key Chart I have printed out F10 is described as preview current. Hi Ken, ...
303. Flangeway end gap
... topic: 3407 Flangeway end gap posted: 2 Apr 2019 12:18 from: Martin Wynne Stephen Freeman wrote: One thing I'd like to see in Templot is the ability to alter the actual angle of the end of rails (check or wing) Hi Stephen, Yes, you can do that by modifying the flangeway end-gap and the flare length. For an individual check rail or wing rail, use the real> adjust check rails... menu item. Here is a bit of video showing that being done: http://flashbackconnect.com/Default.aspx?id=m3nrRymDOeSvsWfXoQojcg2 2_020716_480000000.png To change all the check rails on a template: 1. change the flare length at real> V-crossing options> customize V-crossing> wing and check rails... menu item. 2. Change the end-gap as below: 2_020705_450000000.png The issue is not as simple as it might seem, because the flare length is a prototype setting (entered in inches), but the end gap is a model setting which depends ...
... t_nicholls_23_april_1963_large.jpg Alex Attachment: attach_346_542_bristol_old_station _08_09_22_1253_06.box 512 posted: 22 Sep 2008 18:58 from: Martin Wynne Hi Alex, That's a great collection of pictures, thanks for posting them. Especially this one: richard_hoskin_01.jpg I think there is enough there to have a go at gimping it to get the crossing angle. It seems clear that the diamond part is straight both ways, so it might be a good idea to create a standard straight scissors elsewhere first. Then shift and rotate it into place as a group. You can then adjust the turnouts and switches to the prevailing reverse curves at each end. The GWSG book has a drawing of a GWR scissors crossover in Fig. 46 on page 91. The angle isn't stated (unless I'm blind ), but I think it is 1:7.1/4 (and type 1 -- see below). That might seem an odd size, but there is a picture of a partial scissors at that angle on page 56, and the GWR tended to standardize components wherever possible. However, this one ...
... the turnouts once it is printed. Hi Bruce, That's looking great. Thanks for showing it and uploading the file. I'm not sure why you are having trouble with Y-turnouts? It seems at first glance that all your Y-turnouts could be easily achieved with ordinary negative curving (contraflexure). You already have some such turnouts, such as the one leading to the turntable. All you need to do is insert a turnout in whichever of the two roads of the Y is the main route, and then adjust it with F5 and F6 mouse actions until it matches the required diverging route. Be sure to change the V-crossing type to curviform. Achieving a perfectly symmetrical split-deflection Y-turnout is a bit more tricky, but there is a tutorial about that at: http://www.templot.com/martweb/y_symm.htm It's a bit out-of-date, and some of the methods have been made easier by later developments in Templot, but it should help you if you find an ordinary contraflexure turnout won't fit ...
306. Barry slip
... and slip switches, so that you are back to a diamond-crossing. Then change each half-diamond to a turnout: template> convert half-diamond to turnout menu item. Put the peg on CTRL-6 before making any other changes, otherwise you will lose the alignment between the two diverging roads. On a 1:6 Barry slip, change to A switches rather than B. On each one, you may want to increase the crossing entry straight( action> mouse actions: control/real> adjust V-crossing entry straight menu item, SHIFT+ F11) to reduce the lead length until the switch tips clear the opposite check rails. Some timber shoving will be needed. Try to preserve the timber positions under each switch. Are you happy with that, or do you need a bit of video? cheers, Martin. posted: 18 Mar 2019 21:06 from: Keith Newton Thanks Martin Just tried above, I was ok until I put the peg on CTRL-6? Did you mean put the ...
307. Y turnouts
... menu item or press CTRL-2. 9. Click geometry> shift/ rotate> rotate template by... menu item. 10. For a 9ft LH switch, enter n-48. For a 12ft LH switch, enter n-64. For a 15ft LH switch, enter n-80. Refer to the tutorial for an explanation. 11. Click do> blank up to peg menu item. 12. Zoom in on the nose of the V-crossing. Using the F6 mouse action, adjust the 2nd transition radius until the fine-point marker is on the dummy centre-line. (Press the@ key to get finer mouse response if required). 13. If not already, click real> timbering> equalized incremental menu item for the timbering style. 14. Depending on how fussy you want to be, you can now work along the template shoving timbers to square them up to the centre-line. Click the real> shove timbers menu item. 15. First click the angle datum button ...
308. Timber Interlacing
... that was the general arrangement. This was the final arrangement below. attachment.php?id=378 I hope some one can help me and hope the images help explain problem. My main concern is placing of rail joints and their fishplates. Regards Dave Attachment: attach_378_606_additional_timber.j pg 653 Last edited on 3 Nov 2008 12:45 by David posted: 31 Oct 2008 16:00 from: Martin Wynne Hi Dave, Welcome to Templot Club and thanks for the kind words. Which version of Templot are you using? To perform detailed adjustments of rail joints you need to upgrade to the latest versions, at least version 082d. I'm sorry to be a bit dense, but could you explain what you want to do in greater detail? If you switch on the timber numbering for your screenshots, you can refer to the timbers by number. You can also use marker colours to show each template in a different colour. Some general points: For UK bullhead track, chairs cannot be closer than about 24" centres for standard 4-hole fishplates. Chairs ...
... way of making a precise bend, see: topic 492 3. Make sure the section of rail between the set and the next mark is dead straight. Don't inadvertently curve it. 4. Beyond the second mark you can gently curve the rail between your fingers. 5. Lay the rail on the template. If it is a Templot template the two marks will be on the template. You can align the rail over the template and check that the set angle matches the template. Time spent at this stage checking and adjusting will be well repaid later. If you have stuck the timbers on the template, it is worth printing off another one to check the rail against more easily. 6. Fix the straight stock rail first, it is just plain rail. 7. Start fixing the curved stock rail at the switch front, gauging from the straight stock rail in the usual way. Don't go beyond the set yet. 8. Transfer your attention to the second mark, location X in the diagram above where the rails begin to diverge ...
310. Radstock S&DJR
... thanks for posting all that. Looks great. A nice collection of slips and tandems for someone to build. I like the 3-rail incline. p.s. on the irregular slip by the Cattle Market, you have missed a switch opening behind the check rail. By the way, if you use the crop/combine function on the maps, you would have only one .sk8 file to upload. regards, Martin. posted: 5 Sep 2017 17:53 from: John Palmer Thanks, Martin! I failed to adjust the checkrail not only on the slip leading to the Up Siding (near the Cattle Market) but also the slip leading from Up Main across to Number One Road via the Down Main. Probably because this is a shallow-angled diamond (almost too shallow?), the check rail adjustment via 'customise V-crossing' had no effect and I failed to notice the problem until prompted to review the layout by your post. The British Wagon Company works may also need some further work, and would certainly need it ...
... -straight B6's, I thought this might be an interesting opportunity to re-work them if they fit into the rest of the geometry. Option 1 is to leave them as-is. Option 2 is to replace them with B8 turnouts which works, but neccesitates an S-curve on the carriage road to bring it out to the correct separation (to be honest, this may be required anyway- I gather it would require a 10' way as opposed to the 6' way?) Option 3 is to adjust the geometry with a more 'custom' layout. Option 3 is something that Martin W. suggested using contraflexed (! ?) turnouts to maintain the geometry and spacing, but it's way over my head. I would be grateful for any advice or help- I have attached the plan with Option 2 in-situ, but as long as the top/rearmost track centre of formation A remains at roughly 15 to 16" and formation C stays where it is- I'd be really excited to see what we can come ...
... topic: 3350 American Timbering specs posted: 31 Oct 2018 15:13 from: Stephen Freeman Hi, When you choose NMRA O scale standards, Templot does not adjust the timbering to the required format. i.e. it stays on UK settings, which are wrong for the USA. Timbers are I think 5mm wide in 7mm scale (or thereabouts) and the spacing is a lot closer. One other thing, I was going to alter one in the shove timbers box, just as a one off but Templot crashed with a Fatal error 195, when I tried to alter the first timber. posted: 31 Oct 2018 21:02 from: Martin Wynne Stephen Freeman wrote: When you choose NMRA O scale standards, Templot does not adjust the timbering to the required format. i.e. it stays on UK settings, which are wrong for the USA. Hi Stephen, That's correct. Changing the gauge and scale does exactly that, and no more. It changes the model scale, the track gauge, the flangeway gap, the flangeway ...
313. A new trolley
... . posted: 17 Oct 2018 10:41 from: Rob Manchester d827kelly wrote: Looks a nice trolley. Though looking at it after your mention of IKEA, made me think that the narrow Billy bookcase cut down to half height would provide something similar (though probably not as strong I suspect). We have a couple of dozen Billy bookcases as they are great, although the prices have gone up since we got them. Normally only the top/bottom and centre shelf is screwed to the sides with the other( adjustable) shelves just losely supported on pins. The bolt 'n braces approach is to glue and screw all the shelves in- that assumes your needs for different shelf heights won't change over time. I used the single width bookcases for heavy book storage as the shelves on the double ones sag under the weight of heavy hardbacks- although not as much as most bookcases. The answer to Andrew's original problem is to have a dedicated railway workshop( another name for the third bedroom) but his trolley idea is very good. I ...
... form changes in 'steps' as the length changes Would this demo highlight more clearly (for those new to the structure of the prototype)how the individual component parts that make up a switch have to change in dealing with O/A length and radius alterations? posted: 26 Aug 2010 15:49 from: Martin Wynne donald peters wrote: in the way that the form changes in 'steps' as the length changes Hi Donald, I think you are referring to the switch size changing as the V-crossing angle is adjusted with the F5 size mouse action? Unless you have set a custom switch, Templot changes the switch size in F5 to get the most likely prototypical match to the crossing angle. The well-known list of bullhead standard leads* is on the Clag web site at: http://www.clag.org.uk/protodata-bullhead.html You can see that there are a lot more possible crossing angles than switch sizes, so the effect is a step jump in lead length when a small change in the crossing angle causes the switch size ...
... 18 by richard_t posted: 24 Aug 2010 20:36 from: Martin Wynne richard_t wrote: Is there a way of setting a minimum radius for an existing set of templates, in one go? I've only got 29 templates, so I guess I could modify each in turn, just wondered if there was a short cut. Hi Richard, Sorry, there isn't any way to do that all in one go. But do you need to change all of them? The minimum radius is only meaningful while you are making adjustments to the control template. Once you have stored the template, the minimum radius setting plays no further part in anything. You could leave changing the setting until you actually need to make adjustments to each template. regards, Martin. posted: 24 Aug 2010 20:44 from: richard_t Thanks. I want to go around the plan adding check rails to those under 10 chains. I guess I'll visit each template in turn. posted: 24 Aug 2010 20:58 from: Martin Wynne richard_t wrote: I want ...
... . To make an exact copy I would need something more precise, such as an actual scan of the Marcway tandem. p.s. I note that it has a check rail missing. Also a vee nose hanging in fresh air, and strangely narrow spindly timbering. I have created this 0-MF tandem which I think may be fairly close. The .box file is attached below. If you print it out, place the Marcway tandem over it and take a photo as square on as possible, I may be able to adjust it for a better fit. The V-crossing angles in order are 1:4.5- 1:7.5- 1:5.5 The radii are 1972mm (77.6")- 1287mm (50.7") 2_111801_390000000.png 2_111801_390000001.png cheers, Martin. Attachment: attach_2745_3326_short_tandem_for _ray_2018_09_11_2232_38.box 192 posted: 12 Sep 2018 10:37 from: r_wilton Hi Martin,Many thanks for the box file. Ive attached a scan (pdf) although its in two pages as my scanner is only A4. The turnout angles of the .box file seem a ...
... half template, setting the slew amount to the increase in spacing needed, say 8mm (may be negative) -- geometry> slew (nudge)> slew using mode 2 menu item, then geometry> slew (nudge)> change slewing zone length> match length to template menu item. For something similar see: message 3990 Your case is a lot easier, because you are not looking for concentricity at the mid-point. Just slew each half outwards as required by the same amount. Then a slight F4 adjustment to fill the gap (for a perfect result you should really adjust both templates to the mid-point of the gap). You could instead slew the inner road, or slew both by half the amount. But it's generally better to leave the tighter radius undisturbed and modify only the easier one. I could do a bit of Jing video? A 90-degree curve between straights has a bit of a train-set look to it. At the very least you need some transitions, and ideally not exactly ...
... on fancy electronic servo controllers that don't even work all that well and end up spending far more than that. Absent a freely available supply of ex Post Office relays (as previously used by Martin) an alternative is the cheap and cheerful SG90 radio-control servo. Considering how good they are they are incredibly inexpensive. (But they do have a couple of issues which this does address.) If you are happy to accept that all your point servos rotate their horns through something like 90 degrees and you are willing to adjust the throws at the point tie-bars mechanically you do not need a fancy electronic controller. All you need is one (incredibly cheap- think 1.00 GBP) pulse generator that can feed positioning pulses to as many servos as you like. This method also significantly reduces the number of wires hanging around under your layout and it can take care of frog polarity too. I could produce an extensive write-up and I will do that if there is enough interest. Please let me know if you would like me to ...
... Martin Wynne phileakins wrote: Screwfix are still offering the clearance deal on the sander- how did you get on with yours? Is it worth getting one in your opinion? Hi Phil, Unfortunately I haven't yet had time to use it for track building, although I did do a DIY job on it very successfully. Generally as a Far East import it seems a good buy, although obviously it doesn't compare with a professional machine costing 10 times as much. The one-sided clamp fixing of the belt tip-vertical adjustment seems a bit suspect to me, although in practice it remained firm enough. Previously I have always used a disc sander for track, although the belt option on this looks to be a better bet. The tilting work table fits either the disc or the belt, although the fixing for the belt is rather less of a precision matter, and the degree of tilt is limited by a badly positioned rivet head. But it will tilt far enough for anything we are likely to want for switch blade front planing. With ...
320. How to do this?
... more important matters.... Cheers Bruce posted: 23 Feb 2011 03:23 from: Martin Wynne Hi Bruce, It's a bit late here to make a video now (3am), so here's a quick sketch: 2_222156_530000000.png a. make a new S-curve transition between the existing curve at 1 and the new outer track at 2. b. insert a turnout in it. This is a right-hand turnout because you wanted the main road to go to the new track at 2. c. adjust the size of the turnout (F5) to suit your requirements (this is 1:9 as drawn there) and set do> turnout road> long. d. roam it along (CTRL+ F9) until the turnout road rails are just shy of the existing track at 3. Reset do> turnout road> normal. e. make branch track at 3, F6 if necessary to get the rails very close but not overlapping, and then make transition to the existing turnout exit track. A bit of ...
Search took 0.118 seconds
Back to Templot Club