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... aware of those two simple, but effective methods. I use the 'set' method and it works well. However, I've not managed to get consistent results for the knuckle/ wing bend- especially for the (L )NER which has a gentle bend. I did find bending them around a Hartley's Jam jar came out right for a 1:8 bend. However, if the turnout is curved then getting this bend in accurately becomes harder. Yes it can be manually checked against a Templot printout, but I find adjustments tend to end up leaving lots of irregular bends rather than one clear and gentle curve. I have a week off next week. I shall think up some ideas and try them- I've nothing to lose but my fingers and thumbs- oh, and pride. Thanks Derek posted: 22 Oct 2020 07:53 from: Hayfield Don't forget the method of using the Vee filing jigs to form the bend,form the benb by eye slightly narrower, place the rail in the jig and tap with a hammer. Perhaps ...
... that the roadbed needs replacing.... Now if I can just find where that darn turnout timber stuff is again.... posted: 25 Feb 2011 14:19 from: Martin Wynne BruceNordstrand wrote: I just changed a bunch of turnouts to the correct switch length and it threw a whole bunch of stuff out, especially where a number of turnouts are bunched together. Hi Bruce, ??? I can't find anywhere on your plan where that's the case. After converting as explained above, a little adjustment on F3 and F4 restores your plan almost unchanged. If you give me an hour or two I will do it for you. regards, Martin. posted: 25 Feb 2011 14:28 from: BruceNordstrand Martin Wynne wrote: BruceNordstrand wrote: I just changed a bunch of turnouts to the correct switch length and it threw a whole bunch of stuff out, especially where a number of turnouts are bunched together. Hi Bruce, ??? I can't find anywhere on your plan where that's the case. After converting ...
... screenshot, there needs to a a diamond at the top left and, in the centre, what I guess would be an outside single slip? Question, is, how do I get from the simple overlays that I've done so far to the actual formations? Screen-Shot-2017-03-23-at-16.27.19.png posted: 23 Mar 2017 18:50 from: Phil O The way I would go ab out the diamond is to make a copy of one of the roads and insert a half diamond and adjust the overal length to bring the 'V" into the correct place and then use the F9& F10 buttons to get an exact fit, once happy use tools make diamond and then use the F buttons again to adjust the fit. I then save those templates and select and shorten the template that I used the copy off to make the exit road and finally select the other template that forms the crosing road, move the peg to some where onder the daiamond and make split, adjust each half in turn to make the ...
... a conclusive answer- for me anyway. Imagine if you will building a layout on a board with actual track pieces, you place track in position and gradually build up your formation, but then want to change a point handing, you pick the point up to change it only to see an identical point sitting in the same place. In Templot I'd like to do the same, adding pieces as I go, gradually creating my desired formation. If I need to amend a piece, I'd like to click on it, adjust it, click again to place it back on the background and then move on, not have to create or remove a duplicate first. It must be the way I've learned to use Templot (which I think is brilliant by the way) suck it and see, learn as you go method- how do I get it to do this? find a way (usually by trial and error or reading/viewing a tutorial), then use it. Tony W mentioned he was unable to reproduce my problem- try ...
... image (or maybe any image using output in the TDV). I wanted an overview of my track plan and track-work combined so that I could import that into Autocad in order to modify a copy of the original station layout. It all appeared to work quite well, except that I found the top area of my track plan had been cut off (see attached files for clarity). The first image is what I actually wanted, and the second image is what was generated by the TDV. Now I adjusted the width dots from the default 4000 to 10050 to get the whole thing in view. However, there is no adjustment for the height of the image, what do I need to do to get the whole image I require. All the best, Brian Nicholls. 1853_030913_290000000.gif 1853_030914_360000000.gif posted: 3 Jul 2011 15:16 from: Martin Wynne Brian Nicholls wrote: Now I adjusted the width dots from the default 4000 to 10050 to get the whole thing in view. However, there is no adjustment for the height of ...
86. platforms
... Nicholls. posted: 1 Nov 2011 14:34 from: Martin Wynne Gordon S wrote: I've been trying to work through the platform menu, but cannot get the hang of it at all. Any chance you could run a quick tutorial, so I can do it myself? Hi Gordon, I'm a bit pushed for time today, I will try to make a bit of video this evening. Where you have a platform between two tracks, the idea is that you add a platform to both of them, and adjust the platform widths so that they overlap. Then set the rear edges not to show, for a neat result. Make one of the tracks the control template. real> platforms... menu item. Click the tab for main-side platform or the tab for turnout-side platform as required. The main-side of a template is the side where the numbers appear -- workpad> pad options for the control template> show timber numbers menu option. The turnout-side is the opposite side. ...
... Attachment: attach_2469_3046_Shepperton_- _v11.0.4c__- _Attempting_Timber_Shoving.box 251 posted: 16 Jul 2017 23:55 from: Tony W Hi Kelly. I have had a look at your first attempt posted earlier. You must not move the timbers supporting the crossings as you have done, only lengthen/ shorten and twist them. Their spacing is predetermined by the crossing angle. This has been stated many times before but people still do it. Trying to timber crossovers correctly can be quite difficult sometimes. It is often easier to adjust the track spacing slightly to get the timbers to align before attempting anything else. I have reset the timbering of the platform crossover and adjusted the track centres to 44.9mm which gives a much better starting point. The ideal spacing will vary according to the crossing angle. I have realigned the approach curve to match. Take a look at which timbers I have shoved as a guide to what to do. I have only lengthened the turnout timbers without moving any. The sleepers on the exit roads have been shoved/ moved forward ...
... crossings to the same RAM value. 2. real> V-crossing options> convert RAM to CLM. It will change to irregular. 3. real> K-crossing options> convert RAM to CLM. It will change back to regular. p.s. The quick method to convert an irregular half-diamond to regular: press F5 mouse action (or click the SIZE button) and then STOP it. The K-crossing angle will be set to match the V-crossing angle (and stay matched if you adjust them). (Use F9 to adjust the V-crossing angle only, or F10 to adjust the K-crossing angle only.) p.s. for a full list of other input conversion prefix letters, click the? help button on the data-entry dialog. cheers, Martin. posted: 15 Sep 2020 23:50 from: DerekStuart Sorry Martin. Now that you mention it, I do recall you saying before that prefixing it with a Q would do that. I'm not sure if this is relevant ...
... the centre: waldridge%20bank%20head_zps8r47flxg.jpg Any pointers would be greatly appreciated... John posted: 8 Jan 2016 00:30 from: Rob Manchester Hi John, Go to Templot Club and search on 'Gauntlet'. Rob posted: 8 Jan 2016 01:23 from: Martin Wynne Hi John, Welcome to Templot Club. That's a fascinating photo which I suspect has been foreshortened by a long lens. I suggest using an irregular half-diamond for the turnout part. Set a curviform V-crossing, and adjust the V-crossing and K-crossing angles until you get a suitable size. Curve it to near-symmetry and shorten it to just include the nose of the vee. Peg on two lengths of plain track, overlapping on the middle rail, like this: 2_072013_160000000.png I split out the check and wing rails on a separate partial template, and extended it to the end of those rails. Some further work could be done to put the curves in the stock rails by splitting out further partial templates. Ask again ...
... -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- --- c. DOGA Fine 16.5mm gauge 1.0mm flangeways This is DOGA's answer to the problem of improved running for wheels such as Alan Gibson and Ultrascale. The huge disadvantage of this standard is that it requires the wheels to have a wider than normal back-to-back dimension. All wheels using DOGA Fine track have to be adjusted to the DOGA Fine 14.8mm back-to-back gauge. And having been so modified, such wheels are unlikely to run well, or won't run at all, on any of the other 00 standards. This is not a standard to use if you want to run RTR straight out of the box, or interchange your rolling stock with friends' layouts not using this standard. Nor can you mix this standard with any other on the same layout. So no using Peco turnouts in the fiddle yard. All the ...
91. New user
... in each direction. I put in the actual measurements. Now the shaded cross dimensions are 1 mm too big in each direction. It appears to be unfixable. How do I print the current template showing on the monitor. The printout is a tiny box in the upper left hand corner and not the full-sized sheet I expected. 2. Menus All Windows programs I use have an Edit tool button with an undo option in it. I had to look around for yours. It is buried way down in the adjust option. Windows tool bars have File, Edit, View, Tools, etc. Why invent a whole new pattern? 3. I clicked the "Click-drag zoon rectangle" and the template immediately got squashed together at the bottom of the screen. How do I unquote it? The Undo command failed to restore the picture. I ended up restarted the program. 4. When I start the program, why do I have to click "Ready, Steady, CLICK.."? I already started the ...
... later yard with just two sidings. It is closer in length to the original yard with 3 sidings where one siding faced in the other (southerly) direction, like a headshunt?, towards the hamlet. The layout is limited to 600mm in length but the plan is more than 600mm long. The ends will protrude into the off stage area. I've left them a bit raggedy as that can be cleared up 'on-site'. The turnouts are meant to be to earlier GWR switch and crossing practice and have had adjustments made as best as I can work out based on the GWSG publication on the matter by David Smith. The rails are based on GWR 44'6" lengths with 18 timbers. The catch points in the lead are just plonked over the turnout in the yard. I read that the only way to do this is separate templates. (I think I could do better next time by idea of copying the control, changing end for end and using roam for positioning.) I know the sleepers aren't properly adjusted. I haven't ...
... topic: 1901 Staircliffe Exchange Sidings- Hull& Barnsley Railway c.1910 posted: 5 Apr 2012 21:56 from: David Yates Since I posted my layout plan for Staircliffe Exchange Sidings earlier this week, I've found it necessary make adjustments to the sidings headshunt, which means that the scissors crossing as originally conceived needs to be adjusted. I've spent the best part of a day trying to make the necessary adjustments, but with no success, so once again I'm appealing for help from the more enlightened among you to come to the rescue. The attached plan shows what I'm trying to achieve, the crossover at present being represented by two straight rails each connecting a pair of the diagonally opposite points. Can anyone out there, who fully understands what's involved, please come to my rescue and do what's needed to give me what I'm aiming for, or as close to what I'm aiming for as possible? Many thanks, in anticipation of someone saving my sanity! Regards, Dave Yates Attachment: attach_1417_1901_Staircliffe_Excha nge_Sidings_v14_05-04-12_Dev) .box 414 posted ...
... - I presume you mean the closure side of the knuckle, rather than around the wing rails or vee? I tried that idea before and it works really well- the only soldering required is the two rails forming the vee- but if you do that you can't have the correct pattern chairs (as far as I can see). posted: 12 Nov 2015 07:29 from: Hayfield Derek I totally agree with you, ply looks best especially if used with hand built plain track, it is also easier to adjust ply built track, if left 24 hours to dry out thoroughly you can get a blade under a chair to lift it off without damaging it. Do use Butanone or equivalent as you need an aggressive solvent to melt the chair into the grain of the ply For the novice the common thought is that soldered construction is the easiest method, so for most novices wishing for chaired track (especially if using ready to lay plain plastic track) the composite method will be the best starter method. For accomplished modellers building the common ...
... and 64-bit, and on Wine. So I expect it to be tricky. regards, Martin. posted: 7 Nov 2015 23:31 from: Hayfield Martin I just used the default settings except the ratio which in the end settled on 160%. Having made a 3"& 6" mark on each plan I then just played about with the increase/decrease settings against the grid set at 3" intervals in front of the image. In this instance total accuracy was not essential as I was to adjust the track plan very slightly. It seems it fitted the bill. The chap is off to Spain this week (taking a lap top with Templot on to try and understand the method of operation, he has a wifi connection there)so we will meet up on his return and I will have a look at the angles posted: 8 Nov 2015 13:10 from: Martin Wynne Thanks John. TWAIN acquisition from the scanner turned out to be easier than I expected, thanks to a component from Roberto Zarrelli. ...
... able to convert those tracks to a proper irregular diamond-crossing. More about that here: topic 1731 regards, Martin. posted: 16 Dec 2011 23:38 from: Tony W Hi David. Martin's comment prompted me to down load your file and have a look. I concur. I have had a go at revising it and found a few more issues. As you say the timbering needs sorting out, however it is often the case that when you start to do this you find other problems that mean further adjustments need to be made. I have found yours to be a case in point. When you try to fit the missing diamond in that Martin refers to, you find the placing of the crossing makes the timbering impossible. I have widened the track spacing between the up and down main slightly to 79.96 mm centres. This allows everything fit much better. (Many partial templates later, and something the TDV does for you) The track centres also need to be widened on curves to allow for end and centre throw of ...
... template you wish to fix or peg to the Trackpad. Ctrl 0 or Ctrl 1. Use the F4 key to extend the length of the control template. Then selected the Geometry drop down menu, go to the transition curve sub menu and choose one of the options such as C curve expanding transition. This will generate a transition curve with the larger radius twice the smaller one if your starting track was curved. Now repeat the process but this time choose the Zero-length instant transition at peg option. You can now adjust the boundary between the two radius by using Shift+ Ctrl+ F3 adjust transition start position. You can adjust the radii of either using the F6 key (note which radius is being altered which can be changed with Shift+ Crtl+ F1 or Shift+ Ctrl+ F2. This method is one that I use a great deal when planning of variable curves as it allows much more precise alignments to be created than using individual curves and straights so pays dividends later. It also demonstrates I think the power of the program ...
... half those of the turnouts. i.e. if the turnouts are 1:7, a starting point for the half-diamond would be 1:3.5. Run the peg along the turnout stock rail to the intersection (zoom in for accuracy). Using CTRL-4 peg the half-diamond V-crossing in that position. With a bit of care you can do it all with just the one partial template. Use this menu item to set the curving in it: 2_290354_280000000.png Then using F9 and F10 alternately, adjust the angle and radius to match the other turnout. Keep the peg on CTRL-4 while doing it. The main work is adjusting all the check rail flares to clear the wheel backs and still maintain adequate checking of the crossings. It is usually necessary to adjust the flare length before you can adjust the rail length: 2_290357_260000000.png That still leaves the underlying turnout rails conflicting through the V-crossing, which can be dealt with by splitting them out on further partial templates in the usual way. cheers, Martin. ...
... topic: 1058 Video: adjust V-crossing entry straight posted: 28 Feb 2010 10:41 from: Martin Wynne Video showing the effect of adjusting the length of V-crossing entry straight (SHIFT+ F11 mouse action): Allow time for the video to download: Last edited on 13 Oct 2013 19:14 by Martin Wynne Parts of Templot Club may not function unless you enable JavaScript (also called Active Scripting) in your browser. Templot Club> Companion> Samples and examples> Video: adjust V-crossing entry straight about Templot Club Templot Companion- User Guide- A-Z Index Templot Explained for beginners Please click: important information for new members and first-time visitors. indexing link for search engines back to top of page Please read this important note about copyright: Unless stated otherwise, all the files submitted to this web site are copyright and the property of the respective contributor. You are welcome to use them for your own personal non-commercial purposes, and in your messages on this web site. If ...
... topic: 1022 Help with adjusting templatesTemplates posted: 23 Jan 2010 17:17 from: Hayfield Can Someone please help a computer illiterate, as I cannot find in help on my Templot what I am looking for, and I am not too good at remembering everything so I guess I read it somewhere but forgot it and where it was. If I start with a turnout then add a branch line then a main line, if I want to go back to the turnout to change something what function key allows me to go back to the turnout and adjust it. I just go about it the long way and hit the undo button as many times as needed to go back, not very clever and frustrating when I have to redo all that I have undone. Then do I use the same function to go back where I started. John posted: 23 Jan 2010 17:55 from: Martin Wynne Hi John, Which version of Templot are you using? Look in the help> about Templot menu item.____ If ...
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