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... _Attempting_Timber_Shoving.box 251 posted: 16 Jul 2017 23:55 from: Tony W Hi Kelly. I have had a look at your first attempt posted earlier. You must not move the timbers supporting the crossings as you have done, only lengthen/ shorten and twist them. Their spacing is predetermined by the crossing angle. This has been stated many times before but people still do it. Trying to timber crossovers correctly can be quite difficult sometimes. It is often easier to adjust the track spacing slightly to get the timbers to align before attempting anything else. I have reset the timbering of the platform crossover and adjusted the track centres to 44.9mm which gives a much better starting point. The ideal spacing will vary according to the crossing angle. I have realigned the approach curve to match. Take a look at which timbers I have shoved as a guide to what to do. I have only lengthened the turnout timbers without moving any. The sleepers on the exit roads have been shoved/ moved forward/ back to fit into the gaps between the timbers ...
102. Flatbottom Track
... Digital Vernier Caliper I came to the conclusion that the rail foot width is 1.3mm and the rail head .6mm. These measurements may or may not be precisely accurate but this does not affect my findings. Using Martin's suggestion to use the real> rails> rail section data menu item I entered the rail head as s1.3mm. When I printed out the test template not surprisingly the rails were 1.3mm wide and the gauge was 9mm between the inside edges. So I came to the conclusion that this was not the way to go because aligning the Peco rail with either edge or centering on those printed could not possibly give me a 9mm gap between the running faces of the rails. I hasten to point out that I am not an engineer nor do I have a background in this type of work so I may be completely off the track but my conclusion was that the procedure you refer to couldn't work. I would be interested to know if you have found a way I have not thought of to make this work. Incidently I have since checked the Templot ...
... can't find anywhere on your plan where that's the case. After converting as explained above, a little adjustment on F3 and F4 restores your plan almost unchanged. If you give me an hour or two I will do it for you. regards, Martin. Hi Martin There is something strange then. I have attached the actual one I am working with (V4) (the one above is prior to an change of siding direction) and also a version that I changed the switch lengths on (V4a) that threw track alignment out in the tipple area (the three parallel tracks to the left). I followed your instructions (notch on FP etc) and this is what I got.... First up, version 4 of the plan, untouched. Attachment: attach_992_1390_RS-AUS-V4.box 226 posted: 25 Feb 2011 14:32 from: BruceNordstrand Now version 4a with the changed turnouts... I really appreciate the offer to do the changes and I cannot thank you enough. I would definitely be alot slower at it ...
104. A rethink of plans
... decided to go back and try again. Rather than having a crossover on a transition curve, it is now straight, though it might look better as a Y, but not entirely sure how to achieve that at present, but for now it works to give the overall idea for figuring things out. I also have added a single slip at the left end. I followed the tutorial video best I could and *think* I've got it right, but I'm not convinced of that. Might have messed the single slip alignment up somewhere along the way, not entirely sure. the plan is for a traverser each end, and the 3 long parallel tracks are planned to be hidden underneath scenery and accessed from the traverser. Any thoughts and suggestions welcomed. Attachment: attach_2291_2885_woolwich_dockyard ch_2016_05_31_2159_53.box 257 posted: 1 Jun 2016 13:49 from: Tony W Hi Kelly. Yes there are a few issues with your track plan as it stands. Leave it with me and I will see what I can do with it. Tony W. posted: 1 ...
... that I want to insert a curved turnout with it's curvature oriented at the track's curve (If you know what I mean). It seems that the inserted turnout in the curved track has an opposite curvature. (Or there is an optical illusion?) .Is there any other shortcut to make this crossover? thank you in advance Attachment: attach_2416_3013_Crossover_2.jpg 308 posted: 16 Apr 2017 12:08 from: Tony W Hi Panos. I would try to link the two ends with a piece of plain track and get the alignment right first and then insert a turnout into it, after which you can play around with the handedness and curvature of the diverging road by altering the turnout type. Regards Tony. posted: 16 Apr 2017 12:20 from: DerekStuart I agree with Tony. I think you will need to end up with the turnout further down the 'bottom right' of the screen and a far more gentle Vee though. Might be worth selecting 'curviform' too. At the moment that turnout would give you quite a severe reverse curve ...
106. Triple Crossover
... platforms 4a and 4b. Yet a long train would be just at platform 4 taking up both a and b sections. Short trains could pass each other through the centre. I want to build this in HO 16.5 mm with a track distance of 51-54 mm and in code 83 FB. I am familair with CAD and find this program very impressive. I have built over the years a number off ordinary points but not an assembly like this. I would prefer symmetrical 3-way points (frogs at the same alignment), but non-symmetrical ones will be fine too. Is there someone out there who has built something like this and could share the template please? Regards Cornelis posted: 27 Sep 2017 16:28 from: Martin Wynne Cornelis de Groot wrote: I want to build this in HO 16.5 mm with a track distance of 51-54 mm and in code 83 FB. Hi Cornelis, Welcome to Templot Club. That's a common operating practice at UK stations too. I think you mean a "scissors" ...
107. Printing strategies
... :32 PM Reply with quote Reply blank 1st Message Richard_Benn spacer.gif I have a layout plan based on 5 long narrow boards that are set an an angle to each other so that they form five sides of an octagon. I have the baseboards drawn as background shapes. Each board should print out on 4 A4 sheets of paper but Templot wants to print out 32 pages many of which would be mostly blank and would be a pain to paste together. I thought about grouping all the templates together and rotating them in order to align each board in turn with the paper but it doesn't seem possible to include the background shapes with the grouped items so I would lose the board alignment. I have also looked for a way to move the location of the printed pages around the pad but there doesn't seem to be a way to do this. Does anyone have any suggestions for the best way to accomplish this? On a related note, even though I have ticked the option to include background shapes in the print out, Templot does not offer to print ...
108. Web design blues
... text descriptions of pictures for those using audio browsers; Hi Dave, I have every sympathy with the visually-impaired, but I'm puzzled by what would be achieved by providing greater disability access to the Templot web site than is available in the program itself. The program can't display an audio version of the workpad, so there seems little point in having a tutorial screenshot image which attempts to do so. I can't begin to imagine the "long text description" of a screenshot showing a mouse action in use to adjust the alignment of a transition curve, or to align track over a background scan, which presumably itself would need an audio description? There would be 10 times more text in the Alt tags than in the page itself, it would take much longer to load, and take impossibly longer for me to write -- and all to describe a program which unfortunately is never going to be of much use to those who can't see the screen. Losing one's sight must be devastating, but I can't help thinking the loss of Templot would ...
... weeks time. A suggestion -- before you finalize the baseboards, think about making the hinge pins removable. This will allow you to separate the boards and make them much easier to work on. If you grind or file off the ends of the pins you can punch them out and replace them with a suitable piece of longer bar bent to a L shape. (Or ideally for international transport thread the bar ends and put on lock nuts for transit.) My experience of hinged boards is not good -- maintaining alignment as the wood ages and moves can be a pain. For P4 baseboard joint alignment is critical, especially in this case where you have a skew track crossing the joint. I would be inclined to regard the hinge pins as there for transit only. To be removed and replaced with conventional dowels and bolts between the boards when setting up. In your design you could bolt through the hinge blocks -- as close to the track surface as you can get. regards, Martin. posted: 14 Aug 2007 19: ...
110. Measuring with GIMP
... topic: 137 Measuring with GIMP posted: 21 Aug 2007 04:06 from: renluethi Hi All, Is anybody willing to explain the measuring process with the GIMP Program? I have a similar job as Martin had with the goods wagon. I have a 3/4 view of a row of houses. When I put the grid over it and want to align the grid, the houses are also moving in the same direction as I drag the grid. When the grid finally is aligned with the contours of the houses, these are distorted in a manner that it is impossible to place any measuring points. It is even hard to recognize these blotches of colour as houses. I was looking for a tutorial or video in the GIMP forum, but with no result. I like to scratch build this row of houses and it would be fin to have a tool for measuring them. Thanks in advance for the replies and advice. René. posted: 21 Aug 2007 04:40 from: Martin Wynne renluethi wrote: Is anybody willing ...
111. Partial Templates
... > omit rails and joint marks... menu item (CTRL+ O). It is also now possible to omit the joint marks independently of the rails. Click the? help button for more information. There is more information about the many changes and extra features in recent versions at: info 074b to 078e info to 082d regards, Martin. posted: 17 Oct 2007 13:46 from: Edward Thanks Martin that's got me off to a flying start. I've overlaid BG+ NG (Irish) turnouts and aligned them but now I need to tidy-up the 2 common crossings and the K-crossing. The crossings all have overlaid track which I need to trim back to reveal clear crossings. In your mixed gauge example in "Martin's Stuff" it looks you've undertaken a lot of fine detail rail work to accomplish this. In "omit rails+ joint marks" I can delete whole rail sections but is there a finer way of editing rail to allow me to trim and insert/delete small rail sections at the crossings ...
... topic: 3651 Half scissors timbering posted: 1 May 2020 12:38 from: William Williamson I have a half scissors set up, which requires fettling with the timbers and the check and wing rails, however I've come across something I've not seen before- the timbers are aligned towards the straight road and so at an acute angle to each other as they approach the diamond in the centre of the scissors, whose timbers split the difference and are vertical. I'm just not quite sure on how best to handle this- my gut feeling is to align the timbers to the curved route, which brings them close to vertical, and then rotate and skew from there. This is where I got to: http://i.imgur.com/AVUs23U.png Last edited on 1 May 2020 12:53 by William Williamson posted: 1 May 2020 14:36 from: Phil O Hi William, From what I can see of your picture it doesn't look as if the roads of the opposing turnouts will line up with each other. Have you got the timbering ...
... wrong. I've positioned the peg using CTRL-F8 on the intersection of the two rails and put the notch on the peg. I've created a new template with the crossing at 1:12 (it's obviously going to be much more than that anyway), curviform, and gaunt options selected as per instructions. I then peg this to the notch (using the *multiply key). The notes then suggest using F6 to adjust the curvature to match the underlying template- but it's obvious that the control template is not aligned over the background template(s) at all and adjusting it's radius is not going to alter that. But there is no mention of needing to use F8 to rotate the template to get an alignment- which is what leads me to conclude that I must have gone astray somewhere. What am I doing wrong, or misunderstanding here? I'm sure there must be a simple explanation, but despite no end of playing around it still eludes me. I've attached the box file with the three templates as they appear after " ...
114. map centerlines
... over the top. After that use let Templot create the 'infill' transitions. Having said that, I do have a suggestion that could speed up the initial placement of plain track over a background sketch. Current process is to mint a piece of track, either to the pad centre or to an existing peg/notch- length and position/ orientation are then adjusted using F4, F7, F8 respectively, then F6 to set the radius. I find myself fiddling about with F4, F7& F8 to get that initial alignment. It would be nice to be able to place a piece of plain track simply by picking 2 points for its start and end (i.e. setting the placement, length and rotation in 2 clicks), then dragging/keying the radius to suit. Or maybe there is already a more efficient way of initially creating plain track lengths that I am yet to discover? Andy posted: 13 Dec 2007 20:42 from: Alan Turner Andy B wrote: It would be nice to be able to place a piece ...
... sense as the map is 1940 and prior to the 1923 grouping the GWR and Barry would have had seperate main lines. Second thank you for the advice re: swith-diamonds. It will be followed (eventually!) scrupuously. I will have enough to do just to build track without attempting to defy the laws of physics. Thirdly, thank you for re-doing the right hand side of the plan. I had completely forgotten about "normalising" the transitions. And thank you for picking up the mis-alignments. It's something I try to guard against but given a largish plan and my lack of templotting skills it's something that happens more often than I would like. Incidentally, when one notices a misaligned template (eg. a turnout in the middle of a plan with one road misaligned what is the best way to correct it? Where to start? How does one systematically hook up the corrected alignment without disturbing the rest of the plan? One query with respect to your re-doing of the plan. I understand, ...
... off printing direct to A4 size sticky labels. posted: 4 Dec 2013 15:23 from: JFS Just be a bit careful as the glue on labels is non-permanent and your track might peel-off. A way to overcome this is to score through the Template when you stick the sleepers down so that the glue can seep through to ensure that they are stuck to the baseboard rather than just the template. Also, it might be a bit risky sticking individual A4 templates down this way as an accumulation of alignment errors might be difficult to correct. Having said that, building in-situ is the right way to go in my experience. Cheers, Howard. posted: 12 Dec 2013 14:50 from: Andy Vines The labels I may try are not off the shelf type, they are what I use at work, they have a special adhesive for an oily environment, we have boxes of stock over 10 years old that still have these labels stuck firm. Good point though will give it some thought, small alignment ...
117. Turnout constuction
... third ring up against the crossing nose. OK- inserting an image from the gallery didn't work- try this: check_sm.jpg Last edited on 9 Aug 2009 19:18 by Paul Boyd posted: 9 Aug 2009 19:26 from: Martin Wynne Len Cattley wrote: Do you gauge the Vee from the straight stock rail or do you fix the Vee then gauge the straight stock rail from that? Hi Len, For a crossover such as this, I suggest working across from one side: 1. First stock rail, aligned accurately over the template. 2. First vee, gauged from the stock rail. 3. Second vee, gauged from the first vee. Take care to align the point rail accurately over the template, otherwise your double-track spacing will be wrong. However, accurate gauging is more important than exact track spacing. Use the metal gauge tools for gauging, and the track spacing can be set by eye from the template. 4. Second stock rail, gauged from the vee. regards, Martin. posted: ...
... to the limit where you change back to ordinary timbers after the last extended timber. It is always better to have more sleepers closer together than not enough in these situations. As you say, as the angles increase it becomes more problematic and sometimes wider 14" timbers are used if the chairs are at too much of an angle and the fixing holes would otherwise be too close to the edge of the timber. As for the construction, it would certainly be better to assemble the formation as one block to ensure accuracy of alignment, but this does not mean that it has to be one physical unit. With a little planning it is quite possible to put the rail breaks in such that it can removed in several pieces even if this means that the last solder joint or two is made after it has been laid where opposing sections share a common timber. Also when I build threeway turnouts I make the two crossings closest to each other one unit electrically and make the third crossing a separate unit. I have marked the breaks in red in the ...
... later if you are using soldered track construction. E is a scrap of rail or metal strip temporarily soldered across the vee rail ends to improve stability while sanding. It can be left in place until you are actually building the track, and then the surplus vee rail ends are trimmed back as required. V is the result after making two cuts on the sander as shown. The bulk of the metal can be quickly removed with a coarse file or metal shears before finishing on the sander. The end result is an accurately aligned vee comprised of solid rail at the nose. All that then remains is to fettle the tip and blunt back the nose, as noted previously. I have extracted the above notes from this topic: topic 273 which covers the same subject from the point of view of machining vees on a mill, rather than hand filing. Hope this helps. regards, Martin. posted: 10 Mar 2008 20:03 from: Alan Turner Brian Tulley wrote: However, whilst I have no concerns regarding filing the mating faces of ...
... > SET CUSTOM TRIM MARGINS... menu item. To set the grid spacings, click the PRINT> PRINTED GRID OPTIONS> GRID SPACINGS... menu item. It is also possible to change from the standard "brick-bond" pattern of staggered alternate rows of pages to a more conventional in-line (rectilinear tiled) pattern. This makes it easier to match the trimmed page size to the grid lines or to use different sizes of paper in a single track plan, but loses the advantage of increased alignment accuracy which the staggered pattern provides. Select the PRINT> TRIM MARGINS> ALTERNATE ROWS menu options as required. Click the PRINT> TRIM MARGINS> SHOW MAX PRINTABLE AREA menu item to show an outline around page a/1 (the bottom-leftmost page on the screen) showing the maximum available printable area for the current paper size and printer settings. This is a useful guide when setting custom trim margins. Note that this area is normally less than the actual paper sheet size. When printing user the banner/ ...
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