Templot Club Archive - Search Results
To search again, click the Back button in your browser.
Search results for: Soldering
172 results found.
9 pages of results.
... the questions are still valid! I'd be very grateful for any advice! I have the necessary roller gauges, etc, but as I said, I have never ventured away from peco before, and this is a step into the exciting unknown! posted: 9 Nov 2015 22:55 from: Hayfield Jubliee42 Welcome to track building, you can use chairs on copperclad timbers providing you lift the rail by 0.5 mm. Either shim from the fret of an etched kit or C&L sell 0.5 mm copperclad strip. Once soldered to the timbers and rail grind the shim/copperclad flush to the rail sides Check rails can either be cut up 4 bolt chairs, or use the 0.8mm Exactoscale check chairs, various methods used on my workbench http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/57911-hayfields-turnout-workbench/ Gauges you will need the check rail gauge and some 1 mm thick shim as a wing rail gauge If you have the Vee filing jigs then for a first time I would go for one of the ...
... . At this early stage I was constructing the crossings in situe. I've now copied the idea of a chap on this site who makes all the crossings bonded to the wing rails with thin brass strip unsoldered underneath which makes a very solid job of it! 2787_031702_460000000.jpg A friend, Dave Doe, told me in no uncertain manner that my ideas of using bent wire to provide the hinge for the loose heeled switches was very poor engerneering practice and generally a no no. I conceded defeat and actually found using 8BA or 10BA nuts soldered to the bottom of the sleeper rather satisfying to do. The appropriate bolt recessed bolt in the sleeper top produces the hinge to which the rail is soldered. 2787_031704_250000000.jpg and here is the switch blade about to be soldered in position. 2787_031705_320000000.jpg this shot shows the basic point work in an almost finished state. Just the trackwork to finish and crossing wires installed, before taking outside to spray. It also shows in exaggerated form, the distinctive dogleg produced by the loose heel of the switch. 2787_031658_470000000.jpg Sprayed and wired, the ...
... little confused regarding the filing of the outer faces of the tip of the common crossing. In the instructions it says "File the Rail flush with the jig...."; however there is no mention of how far the rail should be protruding from the jig before filing commences. This filing removes both head and foot of the rail from both the Splice and Point Rails at the tip- is this correct? I am wondering if I should perhaps leave any filing operations on the tip of the crossing until after soldering? How should I file the tip i.e. what appearance? Any links to photos (ideally of model crossing tips prior to addition of wing rails) would be a great help; all the reference books I have show the crossing with wing rails already in place, and not in sufficient close up to be of help. Many thanks. Best Regards, Brian. p.s. Martin- can you tell me what the angles of the Crossings are for 1:5, 1:6, 1:7 and 1 ...
... swing one of the points and plane the rail by taking a slice off it in Turbocad. At the crossing Vee I just merge the two rails then slice off the overhangs. You can see how the web under the nose is missing leaving the nose unsupported! (I also knocked a piece off the Vee to blunt it a bit) If you wanted to go to the trouble, the unsupported nose could be fixed by providing sweep lines on the template that replicate the bends you use to make Vees using your bend, solder and file method. To add the webs for printable turnouts, I deleted the rails (obviously) and added webs using the same method that I used to create the rails, only this time sweeping the profile of the web along the gauge polylines. IIRC, I had to slice off some extraneous bits under the wing rails. Everyone is likely to have their own ideas about how wide and thick webs should be, and even where to position them. For example, I could print them as very thin layers that ...
... as a separate item- Code IL4- so you should be able to get lengths of rail from suppliers who stock Peco- or possibly Peco themselves. You can get 2mm wide sleepering strip from the 2mm Association- but you have to be a member- or from SMP, part way down on this web page SMP Web Site: http://www.smpscaleway.com PCB turnout construction is probably the easiest way to start and the cost per turnout is low so you can probably afford to learn by your mistakes. Don't lay and solder to every timber when starting- lay and solder to every fourth or fifth timber so that if you have to adjust any solder joint, it can be done reasonably easily. It's not very easy to adjust soldered track if you have laid and soldered to every sleeper. Once the turnout is working, add all the missing timbers. Jim. PS- Fallen foul of Martin's forum software somehow posted: 11 Jan 2010 18:19 from: Martin Wynne Jim Guthrie wrote: PS- Fallen foul of Martin's forum software somehow ...
... ://www.paul-boyd.me.uk then go to the "Rural Railfreight" page, you'll see a photo sequence of a slip in build. Hi Paul, great photos- I wish I could make progress like that- will use your photos to help me on my EM version (see Singleton West Sussex in "share& show" and Rivet& Ply track- rivet size in this forum) Two queries: 1) what do you stain/paint/varnish your sleepers with? 2) where can you get the solder cream (T79 ?) in a syringe (as in one photo) from? many thanks Richard Last edited on 10 Jan 2012 13:12 by Richard_Jones posted: 10 Jan 2012 17:05 from: Phil O Hi Richard 179 C solder cream can be found here from C& L http://www.finescale.org.uk/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=56 I use Ronseal wood stain for my timbers. Cut a load of (ply) crossing timbers to length or pre cut sleepers in an old butter ...
... in lumps. The Template is the guide for positioning the rails along with the Crossing Flangeway gauge. For me, the secret in this stage is to build the assemblies with the rails NOT cut to length- but left as long as is practical. I very carefully curve these rails to fit perfectly over the Template- that way, when the rails are subsequently cut to length, they are already curved thus avoiding any tendency towards threepenny bit track!. This excess length also allows the rails to be positioned accurately prior to soldering-up. To assemble these units, I use short strips of nickel silver at all the positions where the prototype would use block chairs, the strips themselves will subsequently be hidden by Exactoscale crossing chairs. The rails are held in the correct vertical alignment by sliding functional chairs on the outer ends. I don't make any attempt to secure the bits of N/S to the Template and the rails are only located by means of blutac blobs. Nonetheless, by proceeding in a logical sequence, one rail at a time ...
... as required. Last edited on 24 Jul 2013 09:42 by R C Lake posted: 24 Jul 2013 13:25 from: Paul Boyd Hi Charles I sort of agree with "RC" in that the articles suggest what seems to be a slightly odd way of doing things, but John Hayes' little jig for forming the chairs I found invaluable. That was just about the most useful thing I got from the article, and there's a photo of the one I made here. It's just a piece of rail soldered to a lump of brass allowing the foot of the chair to pass underneath, so that you can make the fold on the jig instead of the track. One end is open to allow slide chairs to go under the rail. I also find this makes it easier to batch-fold the chairs, which I have to agree is total and utter tedium! More photos of track built with this method on my website page. It's up to you to decide whether the lack of 3D detail with the Masokits system is ...
... topic: 1385 Soldering Steel Rail posted: 23 Feb 2011 10:33 from: Stephen Freeman Hi, Every time I have to build with steel rail, I know that I am going to have to deal with the rust problem after soldering. This is because of the flux needed. Does anybody have an easy solution to this? posted: 23 Feb 2011 11:03 from: BeamEnds I don't know if it will work, but one of the 'non acid' fluxes might help. Or perhaps a quick paint with an etch primer (maybe a zinc rich primer?) immediately after the joint has cooled and cleaned as per welding. Cheers Richard posted: 23 Feb 2011 11:55 from: Raymond Borg-Rail wrote: Hi, Every time I have to build with steel rail, I know that I am going to have to deal with the rust problem after soldering. This is because of the flux needed. Does anybody have an easy solution to this? Why not try C&L's solder cream? It is non ...
... 26 May 2015 17:31 from: madscientist Nigel Brown wrote: I use all plastic in 3mm/ft. I carve up existing chairs to make different types. Works in 3mm. Depends on how keen you are on strict attention to detail, and also how suitable C&L chairs for adapting. can that work to make flange way chairs etc. Given I cant get 1mm spaced chairs for 00-SF. how do I secure the common crossing vee in al all chair method,( I notice several people solder metal bridges to over come this) posted: 26 May 2015 19:03 from: Martin Wynne madscientist wrote: I expect Martin has a lot of views on this Not really. I'm not fully up to date with the current supply position. John (Hayfield) on RMweb seems best placed to advise. For myself I much prefer all-soldered construction. Partly for the instant set and ease of adjustment, but also because I can't stand the pong of butanone. I think Joe Brook-Smith's original riveted ply ...
... switch from the closure rail at the point where they are joined on the the real thing. I say this a bit loosely (sorry) as I often move this joint back one sleeper(toward the crossing) from its intended position to give a touch more clearance that you referred to. And indeed I make the electrical break there rather than in the more usual place near the crossing. To give an engerneering flavour to the proceedings I hinge the the heel on a 10BA bolt that passes through the sleeper into a nut soldered to the underside of the sleeper. It may help to understand what I'm talking about by looking at the first page of my thread on this I'll try to put a link in after I've uploaded this. For making Joggles I put the rail in a vice with a sliver of thin steel either side of and opposite sides of the rail and tighten it up. As long as it's level in the vice it seems to work ok. Kind regards Andrew posted: 13 Feb 2019 20:48 from: Nigel Brown madscientist ...
... topic: 321 Using Steel Rail- long term implications? posted: 22 Jan 2008 17:09 from: Brian Tulley Hi all, Whilst realising there are many "for" and "against" voters for Steel Rail I'm pretty much in the "for" category (hypothetically, because I've never actually tried it). However, I recently heard that a Mr. Norman Solomon wasn't so keen on Steel Rail, preferring Nickel Silver instead. Apparently this is because he has found past problems with soldered joints eventually failing. Bearing in mind that I am contemplating Ply& rivet construction (dinosaur I know) which does have several soldered joints here and there, I was wondering what experiences others have found with regard to long term reliability of soldered joints with steel rail? Fortunately the layout will be located in (what was) a bedroom, so corrosion etc. won't be too much of an issue I hope. Many thanks. Best Regards, Brian. posted: 22 Jan 2008 19:45 from: Bob Ellis Hi Brian, I ...
... Peco Switches which are operated by either Peco or SEEP motors, both of which work satisfactorily on the Peco Switches but which I feel will be a bit sudden for what I want to do. Would these motors be powerful enough to bend the points to the necesseray curve and hold them in place? I suspect the locking mechanism would fail. Are there any recommendations for alternatives? 3.How are the tiebars attached? Obviously they must be insulated electrically. Is it the usual practice to use a PCB suitably modified with the actuating rod soldered to it? Not great for appearance but practical? I would appreciate any answers. Regards, ken posted: 11 Mar 2010 20:43 from: Jim Guthrie Ken, I use spring blades on all my pointwork- using Code 125 BH, Code 95 BH and Code 40 FB. It works very well. The spring of each blade effectively cancels the other out when you couple the blades together with the tiebar. It is worth trying to arrange matters so that the blades assume a "halfway" position when the ...
... just tried ply and rivet, which I do like; however again there are problems attaching chairs because the size of the rivet head means the chair half is held away from the rail, even though I'm using the smaller copper rivets with 2mm diameter head. Any suggestions with regard to fitting half chairs to pcb and also ply& rivet trackwork would be much appreciated.... I'll have a play with ply sleepers later, with the chairs bonded on. However, I do prefer the strength and ease of adjustment of soldered construction I think. Thanks. Brian posted: 11 Mar 2010 18:05 from: Paul Boyd I'll have a play with ply sleepers later, with the chairs bonded on. However, I do prefer the strength and ease of adjustment of soldered construction I think. Go with that method- it works! It's sometimes a good idea to scatter a few rivets at strategic points, but plastic chairs solvent glued onto ply sleepers are very strong. It might seem contradictory, but it's also relatively easy to loosen the chairs ...
... to form which would be a bit of a fiddle to do in a simple milling machine (as against a multi axis CNC machine)- much quicker with a few needle files in the bench vice. If it is milling a jig, then your machine might cope with cutting the slots using slot drills and taking light cuts and often. Use slot drills in preference to end mills since they cut a slot to size whereas end mills will cut oversize. Use an aluminium alloy to get easier cutting and which will not take solder. Using steel would be a biting off a bit too much for your machine. To get accurate angles, you can use a rotary table which can give you quite accurate fractions of degrees if you get one with a calibrated handwheel and a 90:1 gear which allows you to subdivide the degrees easily. You might have problems finding a rotary table small enough to fit on the table of your mill and give adequate clearance in the Z direction. Or you can make up an adjustable protractor using two bits of strip ...
... topic: 1918 Track Construction using C& L Components posted: 10 Apr 2012 19:11 from: David Yates I am about to start track construction for my permanent, 7mm Scale7 layout, Staircliffe Exchange Sidings, using C& L components. In order to avoid using multiple droppers for connecting track sections together, standard track lengths being 210mm( i.e. a scale 30ft) I've been contemplating using etched brass fish-plates soldered between sections of track rather than wire connections below the baseboard. I'm also contemplating using strategically positioned brass chairs to solder the feed droppers to, to get the power to the track. My question is, has anyone out there tried this method and if so, have you found any pitfalls with this method? Regards, Dave posted: 10 Apr 2012 19:22 from: Raymond I'd have thought that they woould work exactly the same of droppers. Regards Raymond posted: 10 Apr 2012 20:08 from: Martin Wynne Hi Dave, A general engineering principle is that you don't use a mechanical fixing as an ...
17. New user
... . Am I overthinking the problems and it is actually easier than it looks? In actual construction how are the points filed? The Fast Tracks technique is to file the inner edge of the point to a sharp point. This however breaks through to the other side of the rail web leaving the rail head and flange unsupported. In real life I would not expect that the entire point is ground in this manner. How is it done? Hi Nicholas I guess you have not "served your time" using track spikes or soldered copperclad sleeper construction Printing- the printer settings can be saved- I have different settings for paper and card, for example. You are prompted to load the printer settings in the printer dialogue. Vector files- Templot exports in DXF format- very easy to do and works well. You can also export to a virtual printer if you want pdf files. Construction- this is essentially the same as using Fasttracks- the only difference is that the sleepering is not joined by a web. Templot is so much more flexible ...
... topic: 1074 To Vee or not to Vee, that is the question posted: 11 Mar 2010 14:25 from: Dellboy Hello I am about to start some point building, initally using copperclad sleepers (a first for me) for the hidden storage sidings and then using riveted sleepers for the rest of the trackwork. Code 75 rail with C&L flexitrack for the plain track. In the dim distant past I built points using rail soldered onto tacks driven in sleepers and then progressed onto the 'new' system of rivet/sleeper construction with whitemetal cosmetic chairs. That dates me a bit! My sequence used to be to set up the main stock rail as one continuous rail for the full length of the point followed by the Vee, then the turnout stock rail, then the wing rails through to the switches with the check rails going in last. For three -way points all the vees would be installed after the first stock rail (starting with the Vee furthest from the switches). Similar approach for diamonds, slips and ...
19. gluing sleepers
... topic: 1885 gluing sleepers posted: 24 Mar 2012 18:34 from: julia What glue do people recommend for gluing rail to sleepers? Julia posted: 24 Mar 2012 19:12 from: Ian Allen I personally wouldn't recommend gluing rail directly to sleepers. Glue chairs to sleepers or solder rail to copper clad paxolin sleepers. Ian posted: 24 Mar 2012 19:18 from: Paul Boyd I would go along with Ian. Having said that though, I have heard of people gluing flat-bottom rail directly to sleepers to represent light railway practise, and I think Thixofix was suggested. Personally, if I was doing that I would use Loctite 435 plus the appropriate activator (no possibility of adjustment though!). I would also use Proto:87 spikes, and a bottle of whisky to take away the tedium posted: 24 Mar 2012 19:50 from: wcampbell23 Hi Julia You will get more useful advice if you could let us know what you are trying to achieve- scale, gauge, narrow gauge, type of ...
... topic: 1383 Building Common Crossings posted: 21 Feb 2011 23:22 from: Rob Manchester Hello, I have been building some common crossings( 1:6 mainly) using Templot templates to use as building blocks for a new layout project. I am working in P4 and using PCB timbers with code 75 BH. I use the common method of making the V and soldering this to the timbers then adding the wing rails( straight edge/flangeway gauge for the first straight one and flangeway gauge/human eyeball for the second) and I notice that the bends in the wing rails are often not in line on the resulting crossing. The templates I am using do have them in line and some of my books mention that they should be. Anyone any ideas? A test wagon runs OK through the crossing on either track. Thanks Rob posted: 22 Feb 2011 17:17 from: Martin Wynne Rob Manchester wrote: I notice that the bends in the wing rails are often not in line on the resulting crossing. Hi Rob, ...
Search took 0.125 seconds
Back to Templot Club