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... scruff video: http://flashbackconnect.com/Default.aspx?id=vbiGFs70bYVMs9Ul78fvnA2 cheers, Martin. posted: 11 Aug 2019 13:11 from: Paul Boyd Hi Martin. That really will be a useful tool, thank you! posted: 11 Aug 2019 17:44 from: Jim Guthrie No more sidings with transitions. Jim. posted: 11 Aug 2019 18:53 from: Tony W Useful indeed. So much quicker than the previous method of adjusting curve radii manually and zooming in to find the tangent point, gives precise alignment every time. Regards Tony. posted: 11 Aug 2019 20:05 from: Martin Wynne Tony W wrote: Useful indeed. So much quicker than the previous method of adjusting curve radii manually and zooming in to find the tangent point, gives precise alignment every time. Regards Tony. Hi Tony, The previous method was actually to leave a slight gap between the tangents! And then use the make transition function to create a nice smooth connection: http://templot.com/companion/link_existing.php I'm hoping ...
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... for the lower connection, but I couldn't achieve an entirely satisfactory solution. In particular, I found that one of the obtuse crossings could not be properly checked. Instead, I adopted Martin's suggestion of trying to fit a full blown scissors, and think I may have come up with a reasonably workable solution, albeit one that still requires some fine tuning: 2129_111811_540000000.jpg Note that to accomplish this I found it necessary to roam the 'eastward' facing connection off the double tracked line to a position closer to the double junction and to give this a longer lead. This brings the two diamonds closer to the junction and permits a much shallower curve at the bottom left lead-in to the scissors. Box file attached. Attachment: attach_1843_2455_torr_giffard_2014 _05_11_2246_34.box 302 posted: 12 May 2014 14:41 from: John Palmer This has been an enjoyable exercise, so I've tweaked and cleaned up my previous work, and shoved timbering into what look like appropriate places. Attachment: attach_1844_2455_torr_giffard_2014 _05_12_1328_42.box 327 posted: 12 May 2014 18:22 from: Dave M Hi John, ...
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... We all know there is a proportion of nut jobs on the internet and that we should perhaps all take what they say with a pinch of salt, this is why I asked my question on this forum in the first place, to see if I could clarify if there was in fact any issue. But alas I just get attacked. Being on the receiving end of such an barrage is a sure way to put me off buying a product, and is yet another straw on the camels back that makes me want to give up on the Hobby of Railway modelling in the UK. J posted: 5 Mar 2011 11:54 from: Brian Lewis Hi Julia. I do not understand why you are upset. Manufacturers have a duty to protect their products from unfound allegations that can harm them. I have lost count of the number of times I have tried to lay this particular 'ghost' to rest but, as you can see, I have been entirely unsuccessful. List owners clearly have a duty to prevent defamation appearing on their fora, ...
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... topic: 2507 Moving Labels posted: 16 Aug 2014 22:57 from: JFS Hello Martin, One little thing I notice which is a slight irritant. If I give a template a new name then move the name label, it sits there happily until the next time I delete the template to the Control. When I then save and background it, although Templot is happy to remember any name I gave the deleted template, it does not remember where the label was. So when the new template is created, the name label is in a different place. Would it possible for Templot not only to remember any given name but also the former label position when the insert key is pressed? Best wishes, Howard posted: 16 Aug 2014 23:22 from: Martin Wynne Hi Howard, I agree that it is an irritant. I have had a note about it on my to-do list for years. The difficulty arises when creating partial templates. The labels would stack on top of one another and make it difficult to Shift ...
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... so the K-crossing check rails have now been shortened. Also I have revisited the scissors crossover in the Storage Turntable file and trimmed the overlength check rails I had left there. So thanks for that. Yes I have spent a fair amount of time on this, started to develope the design, initially on paper, then in Templot about a year ago. Unfortunately there are always other 'jobs' that need doing which seriously restrict the amount of time available. However time spent on planning is well worth it as it gives you the confidence in what you are going to build is going to work! In the longer term it can save considerable time (and fustration!). Derek posted: 6 Mar 2010 13:43 from: Jim Guthrie Dellboy wrote: I had not ventured into K crossing check rails but your comment instilled me to have a go and found it quite easy so the K-crossing check rails have now been shortened. Derek, I noticed that at least one of your slips was 1 in 8.5 which is beginning ...
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... to rave about the benefits of steel rail yet steel is NOT easy to solder! All the fluxes which are recommended for steel are acids and so corrosive- not a problem if can dunk the whole lot in passivating solution, but not possible with track work! Have you tried using any of the so-called neutralising rinses such as sold by Brian under the Carr's label? Howard. posted: 23 Feb 2011 14:15 from: Stephen Freeman Yes- I've tried the neutralising rinse, still rusts. Perhaps if I give it a rinse over with yellow label that might work (phosphoric acid is a common component in rust treatments). Plus I've just remembered I might have some rust inhibitor somewhere. I'll give that a go as well. posted: 23 Feb 2011 18:32 from: Richard Spratt I never bother. I just let the sides of the rails rust and polish the tops with emery. After all who ever saw full scale rail with sides that weren't rusted? posted: 23 Feb 2011 18:40 from: Nick ...
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... crossing. Other than needing to alter slightly one of the Common crossings (next job after this one) I have nearly finished the turnout. I have kept watching the tutorial but now have completely lost the plot and cannot see for looking. Please could someone very kindly type out the key actions I need to use to make the rail breaks in the stock rails. Thank you posted: 17 Aug 2014 21:42 from: Trevor Walling Hello John, Have you actually printed a template of your threeway out? It might give you a better idea what is present and anything not there could possibly be placed by hand with a suitable marker pen. It is sometimes hard to see the wood for the trees if you consider all the detail that one can miss on the monitor. Regards. Trevor. Last edited on 17 Aug 2014 21:44 by Trevor Walling posted: 18 Aug 2014 01:13 from: Brian Nicholls Hi Hayfield, Try these two sites for the info you require. http://www.handlaidtrack.com/v /vspfiles/ ...
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... next Pug on the horizon as I am happy to wait for the new "modify on rebuild" feature. Regards Alan Last edited on 4 Aug 2010 11:54 by Alan McMillan posted: 4 Aug 2010 14:47 from: Martin Wynne Alan McMillan wrote: Is the next Pug on the horizon as I am happy to wait for the new "modify on rebuild" feature. Hi Alan, I'm aware of the long interval since 0.91.c and I'm hoping to have a new Pug available quite soon, but I can't give a definite date. The modify on rebuild function is not new, it's been there for 10 years since version 0.63 -- options> modify on rebuild menu item on the storage box menus. However, at present it applies only to the rail lengths and timbering sizes and spacings. More information about it is half-way down this page: http://www.templot.com/martweb/gs_box_notes.htm regards, Martin. posted: 4 Aug 2010 16:38 from: Alan McMillan Hi Martin Thanks for that. Having the ...
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... appeared? Which version of Windows are you using? Which version of Templot? Which make and model of printer? What print quality/resolution options are available on the printer and which one are you using? What is the scale of the map? How big is the track plan? What is the size of the .bmp image file? How much memory do you have on your computer? Sorry it's all questions, but I wish I had a pound for every time someone has said "it doesn't work!" without giving even the most basic information. Please folks, give me a chance to help you. regards, Martin. posted: 14 Nov 2007 04:42 from: Martin Wynne Hi Edward, Using Windows XP, and Templot version 078e or later, and a printer capable of printing bitmaps, and remembering to click print pictures (stretch), this is the sort of thing you should be seeing. At what stage does the result from your system differ? back_scan1.png 1. Pointwork being aligned over a scanned prototype map loaded ...
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... for that link, Martin~ it is most interesting and essential reading for anyone intending to model the London Underground and its predecessors. My only concern for the information being maintained on a "personal homepage" is that it could easily disappear if Russ Elliott changed his ISP and could then be lost for all time. Is there a way that this information could be safeguarded by being made available on the Templot or Templot Club websites~ assuming of course that Russ Elliott is in agreement? Whilst there is a table on page 46 giving a list of crossing angles, it refers to the various "Switch Types" listing A through E but not providing illustrated details of what any of these switch types look like. So I am now struggling to locate any information details particularly relating to the Metropolitan Railway as well as later London Transport/London Underground specifications for turnouts and crossings~ for example:- I don't know the preferred crossing angles; or the preferred switch blade lengths or even how the turnout was "timbered" – so any contributions on this subject ...
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... switch blades, so I shall stick with that because as you say, that is the norm for narrow gauge. My MRC's Module Specs are minimum 24" radius, with 36" to 48" preferred whenever possible (we are following the N California On30 group guidelines. I shall resume with a straight switch option from here on with #4.5 and #5 for yards and stations, then #6 and #7 for the "main" and passing loops. Thanks for the info on curved switch options, I will give the a go too. I have another question, I have found how to print out the specs on a turnout, but they don't include any timber details. I have been using the shove timbers function to note down the info one by one which is very time consuming. Is there a way to get all the timber specs in a list? Which leads me to the Custom Switch timbering — are the distances entered for the gap from edge to edge or centre to centre of each timber, I suspect the latter ...
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... isn't appropriate. They are almost certainly BS-113A vertical turnouts (pandrol clips are the giveaway, not to mention cast crossings), and as it's a facing running-line crossover they are quite likely to be transitioned turnouts. They need to be created as custom templates in Templot. I have all the data here, and as I mentioned I will post it soon and create them for you to match the PP map. But at present I'm desperately trying to get a Pug done with Save Preferences implemented as promised. Give me a few days? regards, Martin. posted: 19 Mar 2009 17:23 from: davelong No please take as long as you need, I know your extremely busy at the moment. Many thanks for explaining again a little further. Kind regards Dave posted: 25 Jun 2009 16:16 from: davelong With thoughts turning to getting started on Stechford I was wondering in relation to the cast crossings, would Andy Reichert's Proto 87 Cast crossings be useable in P4? I know he doesn't advertise above a # ...
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... box on right is missing (i.e., in the "no print" margin of the printer) -- the printing stops at 3mm from the paper edge. This all means that the printed mosaic can't be assembled as it doesn't quite overlap on that edge. Is there any way to fudge the entire imate to the left by maybe 2mm, sacraficing some of the out-of-bounding-box stuff on that edge in favor of the missing image on the right edge? Thank you for any help you can give me. Joe posted: 10 Apr 2008 04:59 from: Martin Wynne Hi Joe, I will answer your questions in separate messages. I'm having a printing problem as well. I'm using a Xerox Document Centre 440PS at work at the moment. It's been calibrated. It prints properly, but print area seems to be running into the "no print margin" of the printer. It sounds as if the printer driver is mis-reporting the paper dimensions to Templot instead of the printable area dimensions. There may ...
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... topic: 2123 Creating a crossover between 2 existing parallel tracks posted: 17 Dec 2012 10:39 from: r_wilton I know how to create a crossover using the >tools>make simple crossover but i get stuck trying to create a crossover between two existing tracks spaced at say 100mm apart. I usually try to guestimate the position of the second turnout. There must be a more accurate way but being only an occasional user i've not figured it out.Can anybody give me a pointer to a relevent tutorial or suggestion. RegardsRay. posted: 17 Dec 2012 11:01 from: Martin Wynne Hi Ray, If you know the spacing exactly, say 100mm: 1. insert a turnout in one of the tracks. 2. tools> adjacent track centres... and enter 100mm for the TS spacing. 3. tools> make simple crossover. That will give you the rail geometry, but the timbering will not be very prototypical. A proper prototypical wide crossover needs a bit more work. There is a video about creating a wide crossover ...
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... .) Yes, that was exactly what I "thought" I needed, but since reading your post on the subject I have revisited my plan and realised the revised radius (of around 42") would not work, and so have now decided to omit the Parcel Depot from the layout and will therefore not need such non-prototypical "short" radius turnout. Your knowledge sharing has saved me wasting time on building a turnout which I would probably have ended up despatching to the rubbish bin, so many thanks for giving me this advice so freely. Thanks again Martin Brian posted: 8 Dec 2016 22:01 from: Martin Wynne 4railsman wrote: have now decided to omit the Parcel Depot from the layout and will therefore not need such non-prototypical "short" radius turnout. Hi Brian, Don't give up so easily. There is usually a way. If you attach your .box file here we can have a look. For example we may be able to improve the short turnout by splitting the deflection, or perhaps incorporate it ...
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... 10.5mm. Do your wheels comply? Such wheels won't run reliably on your suggested track without modifying the back-to-back dimension. That is not always possible for some RTR models. If you reduce the track gauge, it would make sense also to reduce the flangeway gap, to maybe 0.7mm. If you want to use existing TT wheels at existing back-to-back it is necessary to maintain the existing TT check gauge of 11.0mm (the check gauge is the critical dimension). With a 0.7mm flangeway that gives a minimum track gauge of 11.7mm. And a check span of 10.3mm. So we end up with my suggested track standard for something finer for TT unmodified wheels would be: track gauge: 11.7mm flangeway: 0.7mm check gauge 11.0mm (same as TT) check span: 10.3mm over checks clearance 0.2mm plain track running clearance 0.2mm flangeway gap clearance 0.2mm Using a finer standard than existing TT means you will need gauge-widening on very sharp curves. I'm happy to produce templates for your tandem turnouts using those dimensions, if you ...
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... : Alan McMillan Hi I've built OHLE on a couple of layouts now and am planning more on a third. I've developed the following method for placing the masts and setting out the wiring pattern. I push ordinary dressmakers pins into the track between the rails at all the important places (toe ends of turnouts, ends of sidings etc) and then string white thread between them, placing further pins at the appropriate points on the layout to signify mast positions between those earlier fixed positions. The pins and thread can be adjusted to give the correct amount of contact wire stagger at each mast position and span midpoints. The threads at mast and portal positions can then be used to create drawn templates for the construction of the wiring supports. Alan McMillan posted: 23 Jun 2010 08:10 from: Jamie92208 Thanks for those replies Martin and Alan. I'd forgotten about bonus timbers but will use them. Fortunately my OLE is all portal's so I can use long timbers that show up easily. The mouse lines give me a fairly good idea of where I am ...
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... out more, contact me off line and I'll forward your message to the person concerned. I think it's fair to say that an increasing proportion of 3mm Society members use the Society's Finescale standards, mainly with 14.2mm gauge, although some use 13.5mm gauge as a sort of 3mm EM, the attraction of the latter being increased clearances (and of course other gauges for other protopype gauges e.g. Irish). As there are a wide range of wheels, and associated tools such as track gauges, to this standard, and it give something pretty close to scale while remaining reasonably easy to use, there's not a huge incentive to adopt Scale Three. However, if there are people interest in exploring this as a possibility no doubt the rest of us would look on in interest. These views are of course my own, not necessarily those of the Society. cheers Nigel posted: 27 Dec 2007 23:09 from: Jim Guthrie Nigel Brown wrote: Hi Jim Don't know if any Scale Three layouts were actually built. One member of the 3mm Society ...
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... is less than 10ft wide it should just clear. Maybe these tracks really were at that spacing on the prototype plan? But it certainly looks odd. Likewise the main lines are not correctly spaced, and this is surely wrong? Where you have an unfinished diamond/slip the running lines appear to be at around 73mm centres, varying. (geometry> adjacent track centres... menu item.) *In fact for GWR and BR(W) it should be 6ft-6in way to the gauge faces, giving minimum centres of 11ft-2.1/2" (78.46mm). Also you have the timbering set at 9ft length on the templates. They will include dotted marks at 8ft-6in, but if you know this will be a post-war layout it is better to change the running-line templates to 8ft-6in timbering to avoid mistakes. No doubt there would be some 9ft timbers remaining in the goods yard (real> timbering> menu options). Otherwise it's looking good. I like plans with plenty ...
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... just find where that darn turnout timber stuff is again.... posted: 25 Feb 2011 14:19 from: Martin Wynne BruceNordstrand wrote: I just changed a bunch of turnouts to the correct switch length and it threw a whole bunch of stuff out, especially where a number of turnouts are bunched together. Hi Bruce, ??? I can't find anywhere on your plan where that's the case. After converting as explained above, a little adjustment on F3 and F4 restores your plan almost unchanged. If you give me an hour or two I will do it for you. regards, Martin. posted: 25 Feb 2011 14:28 from: BruceNordstrand Martin Wynne wrote: BruceNordstrand wrote: I just changed a bunch of turnouts to the correct switch length and it threw a whole bunch of stuff out, especially where a number of turnouts are bunched together. Hi Bruce, ??? I can't find anywhere on your plan where that's the case. After converting as explained above, a little adjustment on F3 and F4 restores your ...
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