... is right. Not a lot. Ok, am I wrong? Nigel posted: 12 Aug 2019 08:38 from: Martin Wynne Hi Nigel, I did say that the wheel would not drop very far on short-angle crossings. But the drop increases rapidly for longer crossings. Also, there are a few other factors to take into account: The nose of the vee is already below rail level, say by 0.1mm. That will add half of that, 0.05mm, to the unsupported drop. There is a chamfer between the wheel tread and the face of the wheel. Not much, but if we say 0.05mm, that reduces the effective wheel width to 1.95mm for full support. There is a top corner radius on the rail head. It should be a 1/2" scale rad (0.17mm in 4mm scale), but most model rail has a sharper corner, and because it is a radius rather than a chamfer it won't have so much effect. Say 0.05mm before there is effective loss of support. Only on one ...

... The whisky is Aldi's Islay malt which is a damn good buy at less than 18 quid a bottle and the stout cardboard tubes are great for storing plastic strip, handrail rail and the like. Rob Hello Rob Like Stephen I ve not had much problem with them in 4 mm other than the odd one splitting or separating, I should say, so that the two sides were no longer connected. But I discovered that this was due to me not fettling the ends of the rail carefully enough. Once I put a mild chamfer on the web of the rail, all was well! Interesting what you say about the shape not making any difference to the flavour of your whisky. But I think you maybe surprised by how much shape does make a difference. When your thirsty next, humour me, and try it out of some wildly different shapes, a mug a wine glass, tea cup etc and then come back to me and tell me it didn't make a haporth of difference....you might, but I doubt it! Kind regards ...

... -crossing> wing and check rails... menu item. 2. Change the end-gap as below: 2_020705_450000000.png The issue is not as simple as it might seem, because the flare length is a prototype setting (entered in inches), but the end gap is a model setting which depends on the track standards in use (entered in mm). cheers, Martin. posted: 2 Apr 2019 14:10 from: Stephen Freeman Unfortunately that's not what I meant. I knew I can bend/chamfer check rails (machined) etc on the checked rail side of the check rail, it's the inside I'd like it do. posted: 2 Apr 2019 15:05 from: Martin Wynne Stephen Freeman wrote: Unfortunately that's not what I meant. I knew I can bend/chamfer check rails (machined) etc on the checked rail side of the check rail, it's the inside I'd like it do. Hi Stephen, That's not directly supported, but it is easy enough to do if needed: 1. set ...

... I feel I'm being pressured into posting stuff before I'm ready. I'm sorry about the formatting and thrown-together look of it. All this old stuff will be reappearing in the Templot Companion in due course, properly updated for Templot2 with new diagrams and videos and explanations. But not yet. p.s. The hobby was massively ill-served by an article in MRJ about 20 years ago which mixed up "straightcut" switch planing with the geometry of straight switches. All switches can be either straightcut or undercut planed (or chamfered or other) regardless of whether they are straight, semi-curved, or curved switches. Martin. red_pointer.gif These notes apply to UK-pattern bullhead track only. Setting the Curved Stock Rail The diagram below shows the position of the set (bend) in the turnout-side (TS) stock rail, which matches the planing angle on the switch blades and is needed to ensure a correct track gauge through the turnout road of the switch. Templot puts a mark across the curved stock rail at the position of ...

... crude which seems to have attached itself to the rail. The heel chair is to the left of the gap. Nigel posted: 19 Feb 2019 21:33 from: madscientist Ah ok. posted: 20 Feb 2019 10:57 from: John Palmer Just caught up on this topic. Matt, thanks so much for posting those drawings showing Australian practice; they are quite fascinating and clearly show the extent of the differences between switches constructed with bullhead rail and those with flat bottom rail, right down to the .25" chamfer in the foot of the FB variety to allow it to swing. The attached photo shows the prototype I made about 4 years ago for a NB loose heel switch. Unfortunately I got its dimensions wrong and the tongue is quite a lot longer than the 12' length that was so commonplace on NB lines. The tube through the baseboard carrying the pivot wire is rendered unobtrusive by the simulated heel plate; it would be rather more obvious in the absence of that plate, but not necessarily unacceptable- indeed, it would ...

... 15:03 from: Martin Wynne Hi Andy, Thanks for uploading your file. I'm working on creating approximations to the double-curved vertical 1432mm FB switches. These were used for renewals in the UK between the years circa 1970- 2000. Double-curved switches are not (yet) directly supported in Templot, although they can be exactly represented using partial templates. But I doubt many modellers would want to go that far, bearing in mind that it would only make sense if they are also precision-machining the chamfered planing, and using 1432mm track gauge (18.79mm in 4mm/ft scale). Perhaps a few modellers in the larger model engineering scales. However, very close approximations, within normal modelling tolerances, can be created using single-curved switches. This is something I have been intending to do for years, so thanks for giving me a nudge to get on with it. It will take a day or two, and then I will re-work your track plan using them as custom switches. I'm intending to ...

... from: Nigel Brown In 3mm/ft, where we don't currently have special chairs, what I do is shave the inside of the running rail chair and the outside of the check rail chair until the check rail can sit the required distance from the running rail. With the chairs I use this works well enough. The same method will of course work for the flaired part of the check rail. Re feeding rail onto chairs, remember to apply a taper to the web part of the rail, ie you need to chamfer all the edges which pass through the chair. The last time I used C&L chairs I didn't find a problem. posted: 25 Nov 2014 14:31 from: DerekStuart Thank you everybody for your help. The combined answers from everyone more than answers any questions that I had about checkrails. Being new to this, I am really glad that I decided to make quite a few test modules first before embarking on anything more adventurous. PS- Martin, I found a good article last night that you wrote ...

... : Andy G richard_t wrote: But I've had to take a fair bit off the inside of the fishplates to accomodate C&L rail, and I think I'm going to have a problem with gaps between the chairs and the rails when I get to that stage. I think I'm going to have to apply some Mek to soften the chairs and push them into the rails unless anyone else has any ideas. Richard. With the 4mm chairs I file the end of the rail, not to a knife edge but so that chamfered surfaces are presented to the chair opening, thus easing the opening out rather than trying to barge through. The chairs have a good grip on the rail, you don't want them loose as it will be a pain to lay them correctly spaced, plus the gauge will then wobble in and out as the rail moves in the chairs, may or may not be significant. Andy posted: 8 Apr 2009 22:06 from: Nigel Brown richard_t wrote: I think it's perhaps best to stick with one supplier. Think ...