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... Going from 'The Lynton and Barnstaple Railway Measured and Drawn by Stephen Phillips, The post 1926 up grade was 40lbs rail with 12 sleepers for every 30 foot length. 30.5" between centre of sleepers and 12" from centre of sleeper to end of rail. Timber sleepers were 4'-6" x 9.5" x 4.5" but of course they varied. The rail was fixed to the sleepers on a 7" x 7" bearing plate through which the 3/4" dia. bolts protruded onto which the rail clamps were fitted and held in place by 1 1/8" share nuts. The two bolts were diagonally offset, I assume to 1, allow for a greater distance between the bolt holes and 2, possibly to help try and offset rail creep a bit. The concrete sleepers from 1927 were the same spacing but the rail was directly on the sleeper and held by two spikes directly opposite each other. The concrete sleepers were 4' x 6 1/8" x 6 1/8". The fishplates drawn ...
22. A new trolley
... . One was that I didn't like trains buried out of sight. Another was that if you can't readily access your point motors and one of them fails you're stuck! The first half of the layout was a success but the second half didn't really fit in. The time came when I'd got everything out of it I wanted to, and it was dismantled in preparation for my developing 3mm stuff. The vice is Proxxon. It's reasonably good; it attaches to the bench by suction, but they also do one with a clamp which may be a better idea. Like most Proxxon stuff it's well made. You can have things at different angles. Nigel posted: 13 Nov 2018 01:05 from: Rob Manchester Hi Nigel, Thanks very much for the US pics. The UP SD7 drifting down is excellent- one of my favorite locos. I know what you mean about point motors- been there. I love the way US modellers have it easy- no need to choose between 3-link or Jackson/Spratt&Winkle couplers as ...
... 0.25mm, 0.5mm and 1.0mm thicknesses; packs of 10 are 85p. HTH Brian Last edited on 28 Mar 2018 19:21 by polybear posted: 28 Mar 2018 23:39 from: Rob Manchester Hi All, Thanks for all the posts. Yes Martin, maybe I should crank up the lathe and make some While having a bath I had an idea. It works. I used a machine vice that has v-grooves running horizontally along both jaws and inserted a washer at the end of the jaws so it is clamped at 4 places on it's circumference. Tighten gently, but not too much, then used a cheap 6 sided reamer to enlarge the hole. I sand the washers to the desired thickness after doing this, if required. Thanks Brian, I am using the EMGS washers. I just buy the 1mm thick ones and sand them to the thickness required on a sheet of emery taped to the dining room table workbench. Rob posted: 29 Mar 2018 17:15 from: Jim Guthrie Rob, I have to confess that ...
... , to use Norman Soloman's method as described in MRJ 151. This uses a 2.5mm wide strip of PCB material with brass lace pins soldered to the blades. The spacing of the pins is given as 15.5mm for both EM and P4 but having tried this, it gives a gap between the blade and the stock rail of about 2 mm which, to my untutored eye seems too big. Many years ago I read an article by Iain Rice where he advocated cut down "Dinky" hair grips Araldited together to give a joint clamp/gauge for setting point blades. This device would give a gap of about 1.3 mm which would seem to be much closer to the prototype gap of about 4 inches. What do other people use as a blade/stock rail gap in P4? Regards Arthur posted: 15 May 2010 08:38 from: Martin Wynne Hi Arthur, The prototype switch opening for bullhead track is 4.1/4". This equates to 1.4mm in 4mm scale. regards, Martin. posted: 15 May 2010 09:27 from ...
... it starts to take some part of the wheel load at about the position of the second stretcher bar. Up until that point it is simply guiding the wheel flange, and is dull on top: 2_171152_120000001.jpg 2_171152_120000000.jpg You can see that the tip is very thin, and if continued up to the top of the stock rail it would be a knife edge. The way to model this is to do the final shaping with fine abrasive paper (" Wet-or-Dry" paper from car shops), with the blade clamped against the stock rail. Notice also a seldom-modelled but quite prominent feature, the steel sole plate on the toe timber. It is used to hold the toe to gauge, so that the stretcher drive and detection rods can be accurately set. Usually there are strips welded on the ends of the sole plate to bear against the chair bases (just visible under the muck on the lower pic), or the ends of the plate are turned up as a forging for the same purpose. In the photos there ...
... quietly when in use. About £160 now I think. Good method for the crossing vees Martin. You can of course make an adjustable jig for holding the assembly on the disc sander table if you wish. Rob posted: 7 Jan 2018 10:51 from: John Palmer I have the Scheppach version of these disc/belt sanders and can also attest to how useful they are. I got acceptable results from the disc sander as a grinder of the backs of switch blades, using an easily fabricated hardwood jig with clamping screw to present the rail to the disc. Parts of Templot Club may not function unless you enable JavaScript (also called Active Scripting) in your browser. Templot Club> Forums> Trackbuilding topics> Making crossing vees about Templot Club Templot Companion- User Guide- A-Z Index Templot Explained for beginners Please click: important information for new members and first-time visitors. indexing link for search engines back to top of page Please read this important note about copyright: Unless stated otherwise, all the files submitted to ...
... replicate with something from Grandt Line but I have a feeling that you may require something smaller than they supply. A Shapeways 3D print may work there. With your version of a plate with "slightly more raised( cast) piece under the chair screw", that is a plate with a shoulder. It can be a single shoulder or a double shoulder. If single, the shoulder is usually located on the outside of the track. It is to help control lateral movement and lets the screwspike only having to supply the clamping force. Regards, Matt M. posted: 24 Nov 2015 21:22 from: madscientist Thanks. I have a better photo taken recently, still in the camera card, I'll upload it for info, tomorrow Parts of Templot Club may not function unless you enable JavaScript (also called Active Scripting) in your browser. Templot Club> Forums> Trackbuilding topics> representing Irish light weight flat-bottomed chairs about Templot Club Templot Companion- User Guide- A-Z Index Templot Explained for beginners Please click: important ...
... a particular problem as speed increases. With very few exceptions pots were only used in low speed applications. The pot sleepers are a compromise between material use and suitability for purpose. Hence the lack of tie bars on a majority of sleepers per length of rail. In a wartime and austerity settings they don't use too much steel or concrete. And don't use timber. During and post war a lot of energy was spent coming up with ways to make what would have previously been considered useless split timber sleepers be useable. Various clamps and straps and bolting formats were developed. It was that bad. Matt M. Nice, useful, photos by the way. posted: 31 Dec 2015 19:43 from: mikewturner Hi guys Thanks to Matt's suggestion Santa brought me a copy of Andrew Dow's book so I have the drawings :-) Regards Mike posted: 23 Jan 2016 03:57 from: Andrew Barrowman Going a bit "off topic", but isn't there a French version that uses (or used) zig-zag ties? posted ...
... - we are not into mass production, but when it is worn out, just make another!!! I think I made the whole thing in a morning and drank plenty of tea in the same timeframe! The thing is that the wearing parts are filing GUIDES- the file should only very lightly brush against them, never with any weight over that part of the file. In the case of the wooden bridge, if you put any pressure on the file here you will dislodge the thing- it is only lightly clamped with two screws. The BIG (14") files assist with this. You are quite right that the choice of brass and wood is about protecting the file- big, good quality ones cost a lot- and we need the best quality tools- don't even thing of B&Q or Draper! One thing I say to people who want to learn to make track:- first you must learn to use a file properly (you will need big ones, small ones, coarse ones, smooth ones- ...
... Martin Wynne Oh dear! Sorry to hear that Richard. We have all been there, but usually only once. After that some ideas like this are added to the workbench: http://www.westernthunder.co.uk/index.php?threads/a -useful-item-that-might-be-going-spare-in-your-kitchen.4023/ http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p /squeeze-bottles/5474226/ http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p /pipe-clips-clamps/6195255/ regards, Martin. posted: 6 Dec 2015 07:47 from: alan@york My solution:A small butanone bottle is placed in a larger tin, the gap between them was filled with small stones, which were then glued in with PVA. The small bottle is then topped up as required.Forty years on, it is still in use. a@yPS Had similar accident too. posted: 6 Dec 2015 08:06 from: Hayfield I just top up a bottle by 1/3rd ...
... the tongue rail as they make a facing movement through the switch. Any tendency for a tongue to be displaced by the trailing wheelset in such a case is likely to occur just as the leading wheel of the following vehicle reaches that tongue. In these circumstances it would appear that the fishplates' ability to held the tongue rail in alignment is going to be very limited. Since at least one of these fishplates has been cranked to accommodate the rotation of the switch at the heel joint, there will presumably be little or no clamping of the fishing surfaces on the tongue rail. I'd hoped I might find a suitable shot of a Caledonian switch In Jim Summers' lovely book on the company's signalling, but no such luck. posted: 9 Nov 2015 11:34 from: Jim Guthrie John Palmer wrote: I'd hoped I might find a suitable shot of a Caledonian switch In Jim Summers' lovely book on the company's signalling, but no such luck. John, I've had a dig through my Caledonian books- Livery, Wagons, Jumbos, " ...
... topic: 1175 Switch-diamond- early FB at Bilton Junction posted: 22 Jul 2010 16:12 from: Martin Wynne 2_221106_110000000.jpg photo by Mick Nicholson Switch-diamond in early FB track at Bilton Junction- clamped out of use. Photo kindly sent by Mick Nicholson. Thanks Mick. Parts of Templot Club may not function unless you enable JavaScript (also called Active Scripting) in your browser. Templot Club> Forums> Prototype pics> Switch-diamond- early FB at Bilton Junction about Templot Club Templot Companion- User Guide- A-Z Index Templot Explained for beginners Please click: important information for new members and first-time visitors. indexing link for search engines back to top of page Please read this important note about copyright: Unless stated otherwise, all the files submitted to this web site are copyright and the property of the respective contributor. You are welcome to use them for your own personal non-commercial purposes, and in your messages on this web site. If you want to publish any of this material elsewhere or ...
... but this time at an angle, so that only the rail head is removed. The result is a knife edge at the tip, but with half the web thickness remaining below the tip and still providing sufficient strength for proper flexing of the whole switch rail. This diagram shows the resulting end view of the switch blade: cranked_switch_dropper.gif The final task is to put a set in the rail where the planing runs out, so that the top corner of the gauge face is returned to a straight line. With the blade then clamped against its stock rail, the deflection angle can be checked, and a rub with abrasive paper will radius the tip corner from a knife edge to something comparable with the prototype which will be robust enough in service. I originally prepared this diagram for use in a much longer write-up somewhere, but at present I can't find it. It was to demonstrate that filing switch rails is quite straightforward and doesn't need expensive jigs. *prototype web thickness is 3/4" against an overall width of 2.3/4 ...
34. 16.2MM Gauges
... . Incidentally whilst the EMGS do very good gauges for EM it's only the C&L one which can be modified, though the EMGS do do a 1mm flangeway gauge if you need it. Of course they do sell a variety of items, many of which are suitable for all 4mm scale gauges. posted: 8 Dec 2013 11:01 from: Alan Turner A piece of 1/8 or 3mm threaded rod, 4 x nuts and 4 X washers, plus some off-cuts of rail about 5mm long. Clamp the two washers together with two nuts placing two pieces of rail between to give the correct spacing. Do the same again and space the two sets of washers apart with the inner washer face at 16.2mm from the other. One track gauge. regards Alan Parts of Templot Club may not function unless you enable JavaScript (also called Active Scripting) in your browser. Templot Club> Forums> Off track> 16.2MM Gauges about Templot Club Templot Companion- User Guide- A-Z Index Templot Explained for beginners Please click: ...
... topic: 267 Sleeper lengths for supporting point machines posted: 28 Nov 2007 01:51 from: richard_t I wonder if anyone knows how long the sleepers S1/S2 are extended to support the point machine? I realise this might be a "how long is a piece of string", but I'm concerned with the typical point machine seen along the older bits of the WCML (i.e. not switch point clamps). Looking at http://seva.eng.ox.ac.uk/research_railway_points_machine.ht ml those manufactured by Westinghouse Signals. My usual sources for this information cop out by stating "these timbers extended to suit signalling engineers needs". Richard. PS: Sorry if I've got the terms completely wrong- it's been a long month posted: 28 Nov 2007 01:54 from: richard_t Oops- google is my friend, this is quite interesting... http://www.westinghouserail.co.uk/Repo/datasheets/SURELOCKL3.pdf Seems they are 430mm wide, but there is a gap between them and the running rails- wonder how wide that is? Richard. Parts ...
... can add slip roads to make them into slips, just as for fixed K-crossing diamonds. The two sets of moving switch blades at the centre always move together, in opposite directions: switch_diamond_10bh.jpg switch_diamond.jpg Notice that in a flat-bottom switch-diamond (lower photo) the switch tips (points) are carried on two separate timbers. In a bullhead switch-diamond (upper drawing) both switch tips share a common wider centre timber. Here is a switch-diamond in early FB track at Bilton Junction, clamped out of use. Photo thanks to Mick Nicholson: 2_221106_110000000.jpg Here is an excellent picture from Mick Nicholson showing a flat-bottom double-slip with movable K-crossings. As one switch blade opens, the other closes. You can see that this doesn't affect the provision of the slip roads in the other rails: fb_movablek_dslip.jpg© thanks to Mick Nicholson Using movable K-crossings will give you very much more reliable running at flat angles, and they are much easier to construct because you don't have to find room for ...
37. A user gives up
... too many of them, they would bloat the list too much and make it difficult to find the one required. Also, it is often a battle of wits to get the required data. For example, when modelling Irish 3ft gauge in S scale, what is the correct flangeway gap? regards, Martin. posted: 10 Oct 2013 15:29 from: gsmorris Hi Martin, I have found template the best thing in the hobby for years. I travel a lot for work and since 97/11 and other clamp downs taking a small set of tools and a kit have become very difficult. Templot has filled that gap and with endless sitting at airports and stations it has filled much otherwise unfulfilled time! It realy is not hard to use and does not take much effort to learn or use. Just look at software many of us use every day like Project or even excel other than as a simple data entry tool. and what about all the trade specific software we use?. Keep up the good work and I still think ...
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