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... is wearing away and however careful you are with a file, it will continue. Have you tried steel and hardening it? Phil posted: 26 Mar 2011 23:21 from: JFS Hi Phil, I suppose if I were into mass production, then hardened steel would be the way, but I only knocked it up to do a couple of layouts worth! In use, you don't need to put any pressure on the heel of the file. When it does wear, the first move is to turn the brass clamp strip through 180 degrees, then to turn it over and repeat the process- that should keep me going!!! After which, I can make a new clamp strip... You don't really get any wear at the pointy end as the file only touches the rail there. I will try to post a few pics over the next couple of days. Howard. posted: 27 Mar 2011 15:16 from: JFS Hello Chaps, Just a quick update showing how I do Switch Tongues. First a ...
... topic: 644 Clamp-Lock hydraulic switch drives posted: 26 Nov 2008 17:46 from: Martin Wynne Mick Nicholson has sent some close-up pics of the BR Clamp-Lock design of combined hydraulic switch drive and facing-point lock. This is normally associated with FB track, but can also be fitted to bullhead. clamp_lock2.jpg This view also shows the chamfered style of switch planing: clamp_lock1.jpg clamp_lock3.jpg A detailed description of this design is in sections B3 and B4 of this document: Clamp-Lock data From which: clamp_lock_dwg.png Clamp-Locks on the movable K-crossing switches of a double-slip: fb_movablek_dslip.jpg Finally another pic from Mick, of an insulated stretcher bar joint (for track circuiting): insulated_stretcher.jpg Many thanks Mick. Martin. posted: 21 Apr 2010 18:30 from: Jim S-W Hi All A quick pic for you of Colin Craig's 4mm scale clamp lock details clamp%20locks%202.jpg HTH Jim Parts of Templot Club may not function unless you enable JavaScript (also called Active Scripting) in your ...
... : 15 Oct 2008 18:42 from: Jim Guthrie polybear wrote: Hi all, Does anyone have any methods for cutting sleepers to length please, keeping the end square at the same time? I have some C&L Copper Clad strip (1.6mm thick) but bearing in mind the number of sleepers that will eventually be required I'd quite like a quicker/easier way to cut them than a mitre saw and block!! Many thanks. Best Regards, Brian Tulley Brian, My quick and dirty method is to clamp a piece of metal in the vice jaws and position it such that when you hold a pair of side cutters against the side of the jaws, the distance from the piece of metal to the cutting parts of the side cutters is the length of sleeper you want. Then it's just a case of pushing the sleeper strip into the gap in the vice jaws till it butts up against the bit of metal and hold the side cutters against the side of the jaws, and cut. You can cut a pile of sleepers ...
... Hayfield What's a clip gauge please posted: 9 Sep 2015 04:40 from: Terry Flynn madscientist wrote: I know this was posted somewhere before, but can someone direct me to a drawing of the various track gauges for 00-SF. I'm going to run up some new ones and rather then cobble measurements off existing ones, I'd like to go to the horses mouth so to speak Dave The AMRA fine tolerance standard has a fully dimensioned track gauge drawing covering many fine scale track gauges. The gauge is of the clamp variety and can be used for any size rail. The AMRA H0 fine tollerance standard= 00-SF. Cheers,Terry Flynn. posted: 9 Sep 2015 08:46 from: Martin Wynne Terry Flynn wrote: The AMRA fine tolerance standard has a fully dimensioned track gauge drawing covering many fine scale track gauges. The gauge is of the clamp variety and can be used for any size rail. The AMRA H0 fine tollerance standard= 00-SF. Terry's track gauge drawing is on page 6 here: http ...
... did at Warley on Saturday. No more hints then? Best regards Charles posted: 4 Dec 2007 01:53 from: Brian Lewis Hints Charles? Certainly- but I am not sure they will help. For each crossing angle and rail size I have made, (milled), a jig, which in effect is the negative of the vee angle. These are chunks of steel which would kill your Proxxon. The appropriate one of these, together with the piece of rail is held in a vice that itself is clamped to my milling table by tee bolts. This vice is a real brute- I took it to have the jaws surfaced ground recently and it almost gave me a hernia lifting it in and out of the car. The purpose of this was two-fold. Not only did it ensure precise work holding but, but by grinding the tops down by 0.5mm, it enabled me to check and reface every jig- essential if your milled components are to be accurate. The other essential piece of equipment is a CD player ...
... the vee if it is a left hand you need to create use the rail in the 1:5 slot the nose of the vee when you are fitting together make sure that you don't pull them out to far, in so doing you will create a slight bend in each rail as they push against each other causing a gappy joint ensure that both rail heads are sitting together correctly and the vee is correctly formed and solder if you need to hold the rails in place at the nose, use aluminium hairdressing clip, and clamp vertically, do not try to squash the vee into place Geoff Cook posted: 12 Mar 2008 17:22 from: Brian Tulley Hi Geoff, Thanks for the reply. I'm pretty sure I did this last night, but the resulting "2nd Filings" on each piece of rail didn't seem to want to fit together neatly at the joint. I had several goes, with the position of the rail at different places in the exposed slot when filing to try to improve matters. What was apparent was that the " ...
... topic: 894 Help diagnosing real world clamp lock turnout posted: 10 Jul 2009 13:09 from: m davies I've been on a little field trip for photos of modern trackwork, the objective is for prototype information for fine 7mm modeling and an attempt to come to grips with turn out naming and the real world. Attached a reduced image of the turnout (B1312) at Ipswich, I'm confused about what look like blocks between the rails (circled green) above the slide blocks (circled white), are these rubber ?, the blocks circled red are clearly substantial ironworks, I do have the COP document GK/RC0774 open here but haven't or don't seem to have found that page yet. Using Templot and sleeper spacings I've kind of guessed its a C or D 13, the crossing is definately 1:13 as stamped, its the length or full designation I'm after. Full size images here http://homepage.ntlworld.com/mickoo/Trains/B1312_03.jpg large image of attached http://homepage.ntlworld.com/mickoo/Trains/B1312_11.jpg ...
... for a distance and that is where the bolts pass through booth webs and the chocks giving the spacing to the wing. It is hard to tell from your photo due to the angle but it looks like the bolts and chocks at the practical nose of the Vee would have enough web on both rails to hold. And the next bolt and chock set are possibly close enough that the webs are touching (though putting spacers in between the webs during assembly can be and was done on the prototype. There may also be rivets clamping the webs together between the two bolt and chock sets. The pictures Martin just posted are typical of a housed diverting rail where the webs are clamped together at the Bolt and chock set second back from the nose. And yes prototypically you remove the inner foot of the wing rails (and checks) for clearance. Also the foot on the diverting line is milled out so it sits over the foot of the main as they come together. Hope that is useful and clear enough. A lot of modellers here in Australia ...
... in furniture fittings) -- if your local ironmonger is long gone, try ebay. Actually this Ash wood handle is so dense it could probably be tapped 1/4W for ordinary studding. The 1/4" penny washers (" repair washers" for canvas, etc.) and 1/4W wing nuts are easy to find in most DIY places. 2_071111_170000001.jpg 2_071111_170000000.jpg (Take care when screwing into the camera socket not to force it too far. Back off half a turn, and use a wing nut to clamp it tight.) Now with a solid handle on it, I can hold the X100F firm with one hand, leaving the other hand free to access and operate all the controls and menus. But more than that, I can lift the camera high to see over a hedge, or through a fence, or hold it down low to avoid having to lie flat on the ground for ground-level shots. It doesn't seem to mind being upside down. A longer broom handle would allow even more inaccessible shots of ...
... to authorise the wrong direction movement over them). (It's so much easier to do everything "normal working"!) Will come back on FPLs in a moment. posted: 28 Feb 2015 10:49 from: D Foster Meanwhile... 2nd issue... 2. FPLs The BoT, MoT etc Require all points that are normally Facing for movements Carrying Passengers to be fitted with Facing Point Locks. This may be a mechanical FPL, a self-locking Point Mechanism (point motor) or a Clamp-Lock drive. (Clamp Locks don't actually comply with the strict letter of the Requirements but they have been accepted practice for a few decades now- they do the necessary job). Anywhere not normally being used for movements Carrying Passengers does not have to have an FPL. This does not, however, mean that these places will not have FPLs. The railway companies were and are free to install FPLs (or equivalent) anywhere they want- because they enhance safe operation. For mechanical FPLs extra provision would historically ...
... : Bruce Boldner Matt, I also use the Scalefour Society triangular 3 point gauge. In fact you should always use it when laying curves (with the apex of the gauge on the inner rail and the two claws of the wide side of the triangle on the outer rail). This fractionally widens the gauge throughout the curve. However, I also use the triangular gauge for laying straight track. I find it the handiest of all the gauges. I have filed down the outer leg of each of the three claws which clamp onto the rails. I've left just enough of these outer legs remaining so that they just stand proud of the indentation that the railheads seat in. I've left the inner legs of each claw untouched. Modifying the gauge in this way allows the rails to be held in gauge but not forcibly held vertically upright. If the gauge isn't modified, the rails snap back under gauge when the gauge is removed, as the seat of the chairs cants them inward as per the prototype. Just be careful not to file the outer ...
... place when setting out the checkrail, so I'm finding myself sliding a sharp knife under a number of chairs (either side of the check rail area) that are holding the stock rails, to ease them out a tad. There's lots been written about this and I'm pretty certain it's inclination of the rail in the chairs that's being held upright by the roller gauges, whilst the glue sets, that is causing it. Perhaps I should make a couple more of the simple brass block gauge that I also use which has no clamping action, to allow the rail to sit naturally in the chair at 20 degrees(?) whilst the glue sets. Has anybody got a favourite method of avoiding this problem? 2787_131918_550000000.jpg That's it for tonight I think. Kind regards Andrew Last edited on 14 Jan 2019 00:26 by Andrew Duncan posted: 14 Jan 2019 00:48 from: Rob Manchester Hi Andrew, I don't think it will work very well with the rails inclined by 20 degrees 1 in 20 is more like it. As to the rail ...
13. A3+ printer
... I thought someone might have found the info useful. Cheers, Paul Hi Paul, Yes I did thanks, it got me thinking about several options relating to printing and Templot. Martin's bandsaw idea has me thinking. I could do something along those lines with the 24" rolls I got for the Designjet printer. Mind you thinking about it I don't think the throat depth on my little bandsaw is going to be wide enough.......the radial arm mitre saw maybe an option as long as I remember to clamp the roll down firmly. Shame the max custom paper length I can set is not longer. Rob P.S. I hope you got a better monitor these days Last edited on 1 Dec 2020 21:33 by Rob Manchester posted: 1 Dec 2020 21:43 from: Martin Wynne Hi Paul, Yes, I remember the Telex rolls -- in fact I think I still have some, from a genuine old Telex machine. You sent me a sample of the better quality rolls you were using. But Telex was ...
... held on, or a natz above, the material to be punched such that it strips the material off the punch when the punch is lifted after the punching action. Not knowing the makeup for your punch means that I can't really give suggestions for how you might achieve this. Obviously, the stripper has to be of sufficient rigidity to do the job and achieving that with your punch might be difficult. I made punches for Plastikard many years ago and with them, I made them of two pieces of steel with the Plastikard clamped between then so that the top plate of the assembly stripped the Plastikard from the punch. Without the top plate, the punching job would have been a right PITA since styrene tends to clamp itself round a punch. Jim. Last edited on 3 Jan 2012 08:40 by Jim Guthrie posted: 9 Apr 2013 14:13 from: Richard_Jones Hi All, With track construction stepping up I am getting frustrated at having to swap over between the punching and riveting tools- does anyone know if the presses like the one ...
... :03 from: GeoffJones Hi James In the 2MM Scale Association we have some jigs very like your proposed jig for filing and assembling crossings so you might find some comments on their usability helpful. The jigs and methods mentioned here are all described in detail and illustrated in "Track How it Works and How to Model It", which is available from the Association at 2mm.org.uk. For filing crossing tapers we have simple jigs made of Tufnol very much like your jigs at the edge of the plate. Ours also have a simple clamping device which is important. With FB rail you might not need a clamp, but you would need very strong finger pressure to stop the rail moving along with the file. I also find that there is a tendency for the rail to tip sideways and this results in a skew taper. They also do not cater for switch tapers. I recommend a jig based on the same principles as those described by Howard in message 8928 here. These jigs are very easy to build using wood and styrene sheet. There is, ...
... (USA) has FB points pre-milled. Andy posted: 12 Oct 2019 11:09 from: ikcdab i wonder if you have solved this yet. I also wonder if you are trying to be too precise.My approach is to cut two lengths of rail over size. with a permanent marker, colour the side and length to be planed...this avoids making two blades of the same hand and avoids planing too long. fix the embryo blade to a piece of metal (i use square section aluminium) with a clamp at the waste end. Then using a reasonable file (needle files are no good at this stage) file off the permanent marker, tapering from nothing to knife edge at the end. I do this by eye, checking with a steel rule that i have it even. once done, release the blade and bend it so that the tapered side is straight. I then use fine wet and dry to take any rough edges and get it true. Turn the rail over and file off the head, leaving the ...
... 8 operating rods for the crossing itself- presumably something to do with detection and locking? and There are short lengths of rail which seem to stop the movable switches from moving too far. John posted: 5 Sep 2010 02:20 from: Martin Wynne TonyHagon wrote: A truly excellent photo, Martin, many thanks.. complete with point heaters! Hi Tony, Thanks are due to Mick Nicholson, not me. However, there are no point-heaters in the picture. I think you are referring to the clamp-lock hydraulic switch drives: clamp_lock_dwg.png More pictures and detail close-ups of the clamp-lock mechanism: topic 644 regards, Martin. Parts of Templot Club may not function unless you enable JavaScript (also called Active Scripting) in your browser. Templot Club> Forums> I wish it would...> Movable elbows/diamonds about Templot Club Templot Companion- User Guide- A-Z Index Templot Explained for beginners Please click: important information for new members and first-time visitors. indexing link for ...
... version of the template on which to assemble the crossings without the sleepers in the way- I stick these to a piece of flooring laminate. You can very acurately mark the rails for length then cut them using a piercing saw although I only cut entirely through the rails where electrical gaps are needed using the Exactoscale insulating fishplates as you can see in the pic. Using this approach I have never needed jigs for crossings- most of mine have been to odd angles or been curved in anycase- but do make a simple wooden clamp to hold the rails for filing. (as per the very original Protofour method- available via the Scalefour Soc website) Best regards, Howard. 1129_050750_130000000.jpg 1129_100905_120000000.jpg posted: 5 Dec 2010 13:28 from: roythebus Thanks, that's more or less what I thought. I didn't think about using scrap brass fret, I've lost track of how much of that I've chucked out recently! posted: 5 Dec 2010 14:10 from: JFS... couple more pics of the same job. 1129_050831_500000000.jpg By the way ...
... 2 in the diagram), so that when clipped back in place, the rail at 3 is correctly aligned. You can check this using track gauges from the opposite stock rail. Repeat trial and error as necessary. When you are happy with the fit, you can start filing the front of the bade. Getting this right is not as important as the back of it. Remove the bulk of the metal first, then for the final filing you could perhaps do it in place on the above filing aid if you clamp the rail down at 3. To that end it would be good to make the filing aid on a piece of board which can be held vertically in the vice. Use the file at an angle, with the safe edge at the bottom to leave the rail foot intact, and file until the the blade tip is a knife edge at the top of the tip, with the running edge dead straight all through the filing aid. The filed length is the same as for the back of the blade, running out ...
... some circumstances to relieve stresses in metals before cutting or machining, but I don't know if the same principles would apply to nickel silver rail where there would be little cutting or machining in the majority of rail used on a layout. The only heat treatment I've used on rail is with the 2mm Association Code 40 "squashed wire" rail, which comes in a coil and can be a bit problematic to straighten. So cut it into half metre lengths- grab one end in a vice and hold the other end in a clamp and apply a Graskop RSU at full whack to the rail and give a good yank when it goes black and smokes- voila- straight rail I give a few more yanks which I think work hardens it again so that it doesn't kink when you look askance at it. Jim. Parts of Templot Club may not function unless you enable JavaScript (also called Active Scripting) in your browser. Templot Club> Forums> Templot talk> Do you oven-temper your rail? about Templot Club Templot Companion- User Guide ...
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