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... Regards Tony W. 2151_051819_170000000.jpg 2151_051825_160000000.jpg Tony, I hope you don't mind me returning to this post for a little further clarification of what I am looking at... I confess the more I look at it the more muddled I get. No longer necessary... someone has kindly explained things. Attached is an image of a period MR 3 way turnout for comparison... the point rodding attachment is quite clear I think.... and I am assuming it would be the same if attached to a crank rather than a lever. Tim Attachment: attach_2534_2839_post-26366-0 -09851300-1508406275.jpg 695 Last edited on 19 Oct 2017 12:26 by Tim Lee posted: 19 Oct 2017 12:38 from: Tony W Hi Tim. That picture is quite unusual. Normally on a three throw turnout the shorter blades are between the long switch blade and the stock rail. This means a flange has only one one switch blade tip to negotiate rather than two thus reducing the risk of derailment. Perhaps they learned the hard ...
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... Hi Rob, Thanks for that! I've just noodled a few numbers on the back of an envelope (it wasn't really the back of an envelope but it was paper that my printer tried to waste.) Anyway, assuming radiused-jaw chairs can handle a range of angles I was wondering how many chair variants it would take to cover a wide range of turnouts. Starting with a fairly tight B, V-6.5 turnout the V angle is 8.75 degrees. I think than means the chair jaws would have to be cranked 4.375 degrees. At another extreme we might have a C, V-10.0 turnout. It has a 5.71 degree V angle and would need chair jaws cranked at 2.86 degrees. Assuming I didn't cork-up my previous calculations (as has been known to happen) it would seem that a nominal crank angle of 3.5 degrees (with a range of plus/minus 1.0 degree) would easily handle the whole bloomin' lot It seems too easy. I must be missing something. Andy Last edited on 7 Jul 2018 ...
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... Ive been describing above...if I can recall how to upload? 2787_191503_490000000.jpg This view shows the underside wiring including the servos for turnouts controlled by the Megapoints electronics which seem rather like magic to me....! 2787_191512_420000000.jpg Yeovil point rodding under construction last month. Unlike Howards point rodding mine doesn't have to work luckily, as even this non working set up took an age to do. Incidentally I used Modelu point rodding stools which really are quite exquisite models (if only I could see all the detail!) Howards cranks, compensators etc and Eileen's metre long 0.4mm straight brass wire( this may have been a mistake as I've since read that brass gets damaged easily and perhaps nickel silver would have been stronger). I'm getting rather strange effects on the computer screen now so I think I'll quit whilst I'm ahead and try and upload this as it is. Kind regards Andrew posted: 20 Feb 2017 06:45 from: Martin Wynne Hello Andrew, Many thanks for the update. Good to see such progress. It's nice to see the ...
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... across the PCB copper would isolate the switch blades from each other. Spot the obvious mistake. This was the first TOU built to prove out the system before applying it to the layout and I hadn't yet cut the copper layer between the two tubes controlling the switch blades. These TOUs are actually used with tube in wire operation. The alloy section from B&Q is a "U" section- you can just see the bottom face of the "U" section in the picture. On this part is mounted a crank with a slot on one of its arms to engage the third bit of pipe on the PCB strip. 25_120602_100000000.jpg Here's a shot of the bit of hacked about "U" section. The slots are for the two holding screws and allow the lateral adjustment of the TOU. The other side of the "U" is cut back to allow easy access to the holding screw heads and this provides a platform for the operating crank. The crank pivots on an 8 or 10BA screw in a tapped hole in the alloy. ...
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... . Remember to unlink the group afterwards. More info about all this here: http://templot.com/martweb/gs_geometry.htm#shift_group_notch Sorry that page is 10 years old. Some details may be out of date. Ask again if it's not clear. regards, Martin. posted: 21 Feb 2016 14:26 from: Charles Orr Many thanks Martin. posted: 27 Feb 2016 10:09 from: Charles Orr Hi, Having now built a test double slip, I now need some advice on gapping and rocking cranks. Firstly can anyone point me to a diagram which shows how to correctly gap a double slip built on copper clad timbers? I am using DCC. Secondly, Martin mentioned the use of a rocking crank to drive the switched K crossings. Can anybody point me to a diagram that describes such a rocking crank? I will be using a servo to drive it. Many thanks Charles posted: 27 Feb 2016 11:00 from: John Shelley Charles Orr wrote: Hi, Having now built a test double slip, ...
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... from: Keith Newton Hello I am modelling a Midland Railway c1900 Double slip and from signal box diagrams I have seen, the stretcher bars are indeed connected together at each end so there are 2 levers in the SB to control the double slip. I have built the DS in 7mm scale and have 2 rods (at each end) connected to the 2 stretcher bars as in the diagram posted. I would like to understand how these two rods are connected back to the SB. I assume that there would be 2 adjusting cranks as in my photo attached and then a connection of the two rods leaving the adjusting cranks?- however I cannot find any drawings or photos to support this assumption. Any reference photos would be much appreciated, Midland or any other company Keith Martin Wynne wrote: I have scanned this drawing in response to a request on RMweb: http://rmweb.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?p =730101#p730101 2_290310_180000000.jpg Great Eastern Railway -- 1:7 Double Slip (You can see the original scan in full detail ...
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... Brian Lewis rodney_hills wrote: It would perhaps be helpful if this page of yours gave more info in the way of dimensions, or referred to a seperate set of specifications. Just a thought. and a good thought Rodney. I will do this for all B2B gauges in the next update. Thanks. Regards Brian Lewis Carrs- C+ L Finescale. http://www.finescale.org.uk posted: 26 Mar 2008 22:23 from: Richard Webster Brian, On a similar theme to Rodney's; I saw some of your point cranks etc on the stand at the recent York Show and they looked marvellous. However, I was rather bamboozled by the number of different parts and how they interelate. I wonder if it would be possible for you to incorporate drawings or photographs of all the parts on the C&L website. I think that this would help one to choose the parts required and get it right the first time, rather than having to use the exchange service which you offer Regards, Richard posted: 27 Mar 2008 03:23 from ...
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... And 6 years is a long time. cheers, Martin. posted: 13 Jul 2019 15:23 from: Jim Guthrie Martin Wynne wrote: In our defence I would point out that the first photograph was in black& white, and the second one is in colour! And 6 years is a long time. Martin, That means that it's a fair bet that the picture was taken post WW2 and all the infrastucture is still pure Caledonian- lower quadrant double lattice signals, straight switch interlaced pointwork and coverings over rodding cranks, facing locks, etc. I do remember doing a survey up and down the Caledonian line to Oban in the 1960s and the infrastructure was still pure Caledonian. I think the first bit of modernisation was the upgrading of the rock fall signals in the Pass of Brander and that was probably late 60s/early 70s. [Later] I found a picture of the Caledonian rock fall signals taken in 1959 http://tomato.to/photo/31182059517/falls-of-cruachan-near-rockfall-signals- ...
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... you need two weights when you can achieve exactly the same result with one? Hi Andy, I'm not sure you can. If you use tension in the operating cord to pull the points over against a single falling weight return, the points aren't trailable when so held over. And it needs some very careful adjustment to the operating cord to hold them against the stock rail with the right amount of force. The beauty of this design is that you can use any old bit of string to lift the weight from the operating crank. The points are held either way by the weights only, and are trailable both ways. cheers, Martin. posted: 25 Jul 2020 18:12 from: Andrew Barrowman Martin Wynne wrote: Andrew Barrowman wrote: I completely agree. But if all you want to do is exert a force, why do you need two weights when you can achieve exactly the same result with one? Hi Andy, I'm not sure you can. If you use tension in the operating cord to pull the points over against a ...
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... . in particular for my model of claremorris set in late 70s early 80s. I have come across two types but have somewhat indistinct photos. I wonder if you might have any knowledge, one type in use, seems to use a "cam" directly of the FPL mechanism to drive the switch blades through avery short action. see http://flic.kr/p /gW9nv9 the other type. uses a extended arm leading from the E-FPL mechanism, running upto the switch blade tiebars. then a cam/crank arrangement is used this can be seen here claremorris-p.jpg could you shed any light on these in more detail, what railway company manufactured them, drawings, better photos, Im trying to do a 3D non functional print of them posted: 12 Jun 2015 13:33 from: JFS Nothing on google? I just searched on 'economical facing point lock' clicked images and there ar about 10 or so different patterns- including thwo two types that I am most familiar with. Not sure what they did in Ireland, ...
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... frame connections -- rodding compensators posted: 28 Jan 2009 09:13 from: Martin Wynne Something not often photographed -- rodding compensators. These are placed in runs of point rodding to convert a pull action into a push action. It's important that the total length of a rod connection in "pull" should be equal to the length in "push". This cancels out any movement at the far end caused by thermal expansion along the way. Often pulls can be converted to pushes where the rodding passes through angle cranks to cross under the rails, and this determines the exact location of such a side swap. Where equality can't be achieved that way, compensators such as these are inserted in the rodding run: 2-throwrods.jpg© Neil Fraser Image linked from an interesting page of switch details and detection gear at a ground frame -- click the small images: Side-tracked. Martin. posted: 28 Jan 2009 09:33 from: Martin Wynne I wrote: It's important that the total length of a rod connection in " ...
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... topic: 2815 Show/ design point rodding posted: 3 Jan 2016 15:02 from: Simon Hartshorne Hello, I apologise if this is explored elsewhere- I did a search but couldn't find anything. I know that Templot is 'not' layout design software (although that is precisely what I have used it for- and I could not have done without it, it is excellent) but is there a way to draw (and then modifiy) point rodding/ cranks, etc? I have experimented with trying to draw it in Visio and import it, ditto DXF/DWG formats unsuccessfully. It doesn't need to be highly detailed and I can always resort to a pencil and draw it on a print out if it's not possible, just thought I'd check first.... Thanks in advance posted: 3 Jan 2016 15:11 from: Raymond Have you tried using a single rail? posted: 3 Jan 2016 15:34 from: Martin Wynne Simon Hartshorne wrote: but is there a way to draw (and then modifiy ...
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... to use to use servo motors to drive the slip. Where would you suggest attaching the tie bars to operate the K crossings? One last question. How would I turn this into a double slip? Hi Charles, Bullhead switch-diamonds usually have a single wide timber at the centre, carrying both sets of points (blade tips). The drive stretchers would usually be located on each side of the central timber. The switches always work together in opposition, so you can save some motor cost by arranging a rocking crank from a single motor. To make a double slip, simply repeat the process of adding a slip road, swapping the TCP and MCP positions for the additional slip switches. Also change the half-diamond settings for shortened check rails and extended timbers to those for a double slip. If you do any customizing, make sure the slip switches are far enough from the V-crossing to allow room for both points (blade tips) to stand open between the wing rail fronts at the same time. They normally move ...
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... I hadn't. Had to re-install Windows 7 in the end and no the roll-back didn't work either! I'm running windows 7 64 bit if that makes any difference. posted: 5 Jul 2016 19:04 from: Phil O Hi I have been using my Epson 1290, without problems on both Win XP and Win 7, for years now. Cheers Phil posted: 5 Jul 2016 19:37 from: Stephen Freeman Hi, I gave up using the Parallel Port eons ago, though if I ever crank up my Roland Plotter again, assuming I can find a Windows 7 Printer Driver for it, I'll need the parallel printer cable that's stored away. Parts of Templot Club may not function unless you enable JavaScript (also called Active Scripting) in your browser. Templot Club> Forums> I found a flaw> More Printer Problems- Templot related about Templot Club Templot Companion- User Guide- A-Z Index Templot Explained for beginners Please click: important information for new members and first-time visitors. indexing link for ...
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15. Welcome
... total remaining visible. No doubt I can change that, but I'm still feeling my way through the forum settings. But once the forum is under way the exact number of posts give or take a few won't really mean much. Thanks to everyone who wrote to explain their user name. Just to clarify -- I'm not insisting that you use your full real name if you would prefer not to. But I would much prefer not to see the forum littered with silly names like "gronk-buster" or "return crank", or cryptic names like "cypak", such as seem to be rife on other forums. Abbreviated names and initials are fine -- "Mart W". However I would like to know who you are, otherwise you risk being unable to post messages or access other features. I can't risk waiting until you make a post to find out that you are genuine and not a spammer. In most cases I can see who you are from your email address (which is hidden from other members unless you ...
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... I built a lot of 7mm stock plus loco's. But I also obtained one of the 85a Hunslets.. Lovely model BUT...The coupling rods no longer stay on the loco. Basically this is due to the fact the plastic inserts for the back of the wheels have worn out. Now I don't mind putting a new chassis into the loco, but for the sake of 6 securing inserts made of plastic I could save a lot of my hard earned wedge. Some Modellers have reamed out the wheels to take the Slaters cranks etc and that may be the next course of action. However if I can obtain the afor said mention bits of plastic I would be a much happier bunny. Currently I have an Eric Underhill Jinty awaiting painting, Several re-configured Lima 4F's being bashed ..A J94 and a Gronk awaiting construction.. posted: 18 Jul 2016 12:02 from: Martin Wynne Cartaret wrote: Now I don't mind putting a new chassis into the loco, but for the sake of 6 securing inserts made of plastic I could save ...
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... -beam is flush with the inside of the pit. Bridge chairs have a base that is nearly square as opposed to the standard S1 chair, which is much wider than it is long. Flatbottom rail can be spiked or bolted directly to the way-beam surface as it has continuous support. Sometimes a low hight rail section is used. Turntables are not something of I have much experience, but similar considerations would I suspect apply. As long as the running surfaces align, mixing rail sections is quite permissible. Special cranked fishplates are made for just this eventuality although rails are often butt welded together these days. I would not recommend butt soldering two rails together as the resulting joint will not be very strong, guess how I know? Regards Tony. posted: 19 Dec 2016 00:16 from: gibbard d Tony W wrote: Bridge chairs have a base that is nearly square as opposed to the standard S1 chair, which is much wider than it is long. HI tony thanks for your advise. would a L1 chair be suitable ...
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... topic: 3061 Irregular switch-diamond posted: 13 Aug 2017 11:05 from: Martin Wynne A short irregular diamond fitted with movable K-crossings (switch-diamond) because of the sharp curve, even though the angle is quite short. Also mechanically worked and with facing-point locks both ways -- making a nice collection of rods and cranks: http://www.flickr.com/photos/pics-by-john/14706658048/in/photostream/ Thanks to John Woolley. Martin. posted: 13 Aug 2017 11:16 from: Jim Guthrie What are the flat strips just outside the rails in the six foot on each side of the diamond? Jim. Last edited on 13 Aug 2017 11:17 by Jim Guthrie posted: 13 Aug 2017 11:52 from: Martin Wynne Jim Guthrie wrote: What are the flat strips just outside the rails in the six foot on each side of the diamond? Hi Jim, They are stiffeners attached to the ends of the timbers, to prevent the timbers moving apart ...
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... can now create slips, including curved ones, with a couple of clicks. But even after all that it is still going to be tricky with fixed K-crossings for a curved slip. The much better solution and strongly recommended is to build it as a switch diamond with movable K-crossings instead. That is actually much easier to build because there are no K-crossing check rails to find space for. But it does mean you will need two extra point motors (or only one, with a suitable rocking crank)*. To create the template for that, click real> K-crossing options> movable K-crossings menu item. *If they are Tortoise pattern point motors and fitted the opposite way round from one another to make room, you can drive them both in parallel from a single panel switch. regards, Martin. posted: 27 Oct 2017 13:50 from: RPEDDER Thanks Martin for the feedback, I have now uploaded the .box file. I think I understand what you are saying regarding the K ...
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... need opening out. Jim. posted: 28 Mar 2018 11:30 from: Martin Wynne Make your own? posted: 28 Mar 2018 19:21 from: polybear Hi Rob, The EMGS sell 1/8" bore brass washers in 0.25mm, 0.5mm and 1.0mm thicknesses; packs of 10 are 85p. HTH Brian Last edited on 28 Mar 2018 19:21 by polybear posted: 28 Mar 2018 23:39 from: Rob Manchester Hi All, Thanks for all the posts. Yes Martin, maybe I should crank up the lathe and make some While having a bath I had an idea. It works. I used a machine vice that has v-grooves running horizontally along both jaws and inserted a washer at the end of the jaws so it is clamped at 4 places on it's circumference. Tighten gently, but not too much, then used a cheap 6 sided reamer to enlarge the hole. I sand the washers to the desired thickness after doing this, if required. Thanks Brian, I am using the EMGS washers. ...
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