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... topic: 2971 Third rail position using Templot posted: 25 Jan 2017 15:59 from: Colin Parks This is probably asking for too much from an already complex program, but is there a way of using the Trackpad to plan and mark the position of 3rd rail installations? The task is quite tricky, requiring the careful positioning of rail runs, insulated supports every fourth sleeper, side entry ramps and not to mention side protection boards. The marking out for drilling the locating holes is taken care of by a C&L jig but that is only good for when you know where the final positions are going to be. Working out where it all fits would be quite easy using a Templot function- or is that a few years' worth of extra program writing?! Colin posted: 25 Jan 2017 18:47 from: Martin Wynne Hi Colin, Templot has no direct support for conductor rails. As you know it is a complex subject in its own right, and one I know very little about. So I have no ...
22. Tandem Points
... one sole plate. 3017_120128_550000000.jpg Apologies for hiccups in posting- this is my first attempt... posted: 12 Mar 2015 06:49 from: D Foster Hmmm... I recalled another location... Crewe Coal Sidings... General view... This shows the first sole plate nicely. There is a point clip on the left hand blade of the second set of blades- if you look one timber closer to the camera in the right hand part of the 4ft way you will see an insulated joint in a sole plate 3017_120141_210000000.jpg When the above is edited/enlarged the second sole plate is clearer... 3017_120145_380000000.jpg I think that the lug on the soleplate that is on the outside of the chair on the right (to stop the chair being shifted outwards out-of-gauge) is just visible. Interesting thing about this though is that the sole plate is not under the blades' ends but one timber closer to the camera. posted: 12 Mar 2015 07:01 from: D Foster :- ...
... Cheers Phil posted: 20 Nov 2014 22:18 from: JFS Trevor Walling wrote: Hello, I think it was a topic by "JFS" (Howard) that I am alluding to. Hello Trevor, I certainly do use a piercing saw for this job and I do it at the point where I have assembled the basic sub-assemblies (K crossings etc) and am ready to start putting them together. I aim to cut the rail as accurately as possible to provide the minimum of gap consistent with reliable insulation. In places where electrical insulation is not needed, I cut "cosmetic" gaps through the rail head only. With a bit of practice, a piercing saw makes a very accurate cut in exactly the place you need it. It is very important to buy good quality blades and my preference is to use the finest I can- usually a 4/0 or 6/0 (ie 0000 or 000000 NOT 4- or 6-). If you take Model Railway Journal, I wrote an article describing the ...
24. Rail joints
... rail joint marks because they would be in the wrong place and conflict with the switch blades. There may or may not be some real rail joints there -- prototypes vary so Templot leaves it to you to put them where/if you want them when building it. For example on the GWR there is no joint, in a GWR slip the wing rail and switch stock rail are one piece of rail, with a joint close to the diamond point rail instead. In practice for 2-rail model wiring you need insulation gaps in the rails between the switch toe (tips) and the wing rail knuckle, so you must have a rail joint there whether you want it or not. If you are modelling 3-rail, clockwork, battery or live steam you can do it properly. The same thing happens to the K-crossing wing rail joints when you select timbering as model for the diamond point rails because the timber positions are then changed. A rail joint must be mid-way between timbers, so if the timbers are ...
... Looking at those two switches I notice that top one has the rails "bonded" through the fishplate (pretty sure that's not the correct term). I.e. the two pairs of wires that span the fishplate. But the bottom doesn't. I guess that the bottom S&C isn't within a track circuited area? I had a look today as we plodded out of both Euston and Paddington today, but out of all of the fishplates I noticed I only saw one that was bonded in this way. (Ignoring the insulated ones obv.) Has this practice gone out of favour? (perhaps problems with tamping machines catching them?) Finally, are the wires attached/bolted to the rail, or are passed through holes in the rail and then attached/bolted?. Is there any reason for what side of the rail they are one- as the ones in the first photo are on inside. Does anyone have any close up's that they would like to share? Many thanks posted: 26 Feb 2009 16:40 from: ...
... Jan 2014 17:03 by roythebus posted: 27 Jan 2014 18:00 from: Martin Wynne Hi Roy, There seems to be plenty of clearance to me? The normal switch opening at the tip for 00-SF is 1.75mm (the thickness of a 20p coin) and you seem to have room for at least that. The two blades are normally linked together and move across together, so only one is open at any one time. If using copper-clad, you may need to be careful about the insulation gapping and maybe remove the central copper entirely. You need a clear 1.0mm flangeway clearance all along behind the open blade. If you join the switch blades on the middle timber and make 2 fixings each side of it, there should be sufficient flexible length remaining. Don't make the blade too thin and flexible at the tip, leave the rail foot intact on the inside. If you move the blade tips further from the V-crossing, you will gain more clearance between them (even though you don't seem to need ...
... for anyone that wishes to look and check. I would very much appreciate your comments. Best regards to all. Brian Nicholls. Attachment: attach_861_1227_Bham_New_Street_Si g4-492-BS.box 252 posted: 2 Sep 2010 16:46 from: Jim Guthrie Brian Nicholls wrote: I would very much appreciate your comments. Brian, It looks good. I had a quick check of the closure rails and the switch blades in the middle of the four way and it looks as though there will be enough length to allow anchoring and gapping for insulation- re. our earlier discussion. I'm not sure where you would start to build this formation. It is usually best to start with any diamonds so that you can get all the K and obtuse crossings aligned, and that might be the best with the diamond in the slip in this case, then work outwards, although it might be a bit difficult building the four way from the back (so to speak). I'm just starting building a double junction with two curved roads, both with gauge widening, through ...
... but the photo may explain it better. I have a few building boards mad from Contiboard with roughly 1" square timber underneath, and any drilling goes right through the lot! 105_111333_460000000.png posted: 11 Mar 2010 18:50 from: Dellboy Paul Thanks for that. Sorry the pre-ballasting didn't work out. Derek posted: 12 Mar 2010 10:35 from: Dasatcopthorne Hi Brian. I only use rivets in important places the retain the gauge and at the ends of rails. ie where cuts will be made to insulate the crossing, at the point of the crossing, at the centre point of each checkrail, one sleeper before the trailing end of a wingrail etc. The rest are plastic/bonded. At the tips of the blades, the first two slide chairs under each blade is a brass one soldered to the stock rail and superglued to the sleeper. Hope this helps Dave Smith posted: 12 Mar 2010 11:15 from: Dellboy Dasatcopthorne wrote: Hi Brian. I only use rivets in important places the retain the gauge ...
... other great hints on this subject. What methods are used to hold the point rail into the Hinge? How is the Hinge fastened to the other rails? What gap is recommended for the flangeway? Paul posted: 21 Jan 2011 15:07 from: wcampbell23 Hi Paul Before you can get useful advice on this it would help to know what scale gauge combination you are working with. Traditionally for hand built turnouts in the smaller scales- 2mm to 4mm- the switch rail continues as the closure rail as far as the insulating gap for the common crossing. This is because the rail section is light enough to give the flex required for the blade movement. For larger scales a pivot is often used at the end of the switch blade. This may a bolt of suitable size soldered to the underside of the rail and inserted down into the timbering. Some use a rail joiner as a pivot but a means of preventing the switch rail moving away from the closure rail will be needed. For example, the over centre spring on Peco O gauge ...
... I think you are going to need the wider gauge of 32mm. The 31.5mm narrower check rails gaps on the straight will be fine, but on the curve side it needs to be wider or the wheel flange reduced. In practice crossing angles of up to 7 are fine with 32mm gauge, over 7 then they are getting a bit rough, and over 9 can easily swallow small goods wheels. Anything you build will look much better than a Peco point. As well as C&L parts, Exactoscale do very good insulating fishplates (better than the C&L ones) they also do the L1 chair that C&L don't do. These parts are available with easy online ordering from themodelkitshop, at shows I've got them from someone else but I can't remember who. Mike Johnson posted: 1 Mar 2011 14:42 from: Bruce Wilson mike47j wrote: I think that S7 and 31.5 are fine for main line track with big curves and long crossing angles. For tight curves and A4 points then I think you are going to need ...
31. Electrics
... matters seems to be overlooked. Trevor Walling. What sort of guidance do you want? If you want to know where to put isolation breaks in pointwork then I have some examples at http://www.stciers.me.uk/home/track_wiring/trackwiring.htm If it is how to wire up your complete layout then.... Cheers for now John from 33820 St Ciers sur Gironde, France posted: 4 Jan 2012 17:20 from: Trevor Walling Hello, I could have worded it better. I was simply referring to the insulation gaps in rail while using Templot similar to those showing prototypical rail joints.If it is possible It would be helpful looking at how others achieve this using Templot.I was interested to know if anyone has a method for doing this using Templot rather than by hand after printing out a template.I was under the impression Templot was for "Model" track template and "Model"layout design after all.As a member of MERG I would point out electrics and electronics are two different things. Trevor. posted: 4 Jan 2012 17:25 from: ...
... the stock rail. Notice also a seldom-modelled but quite prominent feature, the steel sole plate on the toe timber. It is used to hold the toe to gauge, so that the stretcher drive and detection rods can be accurately set. Usually there are strips welded on the ends of the sole plate to bear against the chair bases (just visible under the muck on the lower pic), or the ends of the plate are turned up as a forging for the same purpose. In the photos there is an insulated joint in the sole plate because this track is track-circuited. Straightcut Switch Blades with Joggled Stock Rails: When a more robust switch is needed, both of the switch stock rails are joggled outwards by a small amount to create a housing for the switch blade tips and so protect them from wheel damage. This next diagram below shows this alternative straightcut pattern switch with a joggled stock rail. joggle-1.gif Instead of a plain set in the stock rail at B, it is joggled sideways between positions A and C ...
33. Minimum Radius
... If I get time, I'll put the chapter headings on here over the weekend, so you'll have a better idea of its content. Andy Apologies- didn't manage it until now. The book has 5 sections, plus 23 pages of Glossary and several appendices (60 pages). There are references all the way through to pre-grouping practice- e.g Appendix 3 gives dimensions of GWR, LMS, LNER and SR switches. Section 1- Plain Line (36 pages); Rails, rail joints, fishplates (incl insulated), expansion allowance, check rails in plain track, sleepers& sleeper spacing, chairs, keys, chair fastenings, ballast, life of P-W materials, measuring wear of rails Section 2- Switches& Crossing (52 pages); Introduction, switches, switch planing, switch checking, common crossings, flexible wing or spring crossings, standard leads, obtuse crossings, fixed diamonds& switch diamonds, single& double slips, 3-throw turnouts, tandem turnouts, scissors crossovers, timbering, measurement of unit ...
... shove the timbers under them, or snake the switches to a better position and re-create the slip roads. Or use a different switch, or start again from scratch... Essentially, if a specific prototype design is wanted, it will still be necessary to do it yourself as before. For a double-slip flatter than 1:6.5, there is an option to move the switch tips one timber space further back: 2_271320_590000000.png This provides some increased model clearance for the opened blades and the need to maintain insulation between them, and corresponds to some prototype practice. Also more choice in deciding exactly where to make the rail gaps in front of them. Prototypes vary in the position of that rail joint -- on the GWR the wing rail and switch stock rail are in one piece. That's not an option on a 2-rail model. By default this increased double-slip clearance is on for 00/EM etc, but off for P4/S7 etc. This can be changed as required. It does of course ...
... the chairs, and beyond that it is free to flex. E= rail joints in the stock rails. regards, Martin. posted: 15 Sep 2008 15:18 from: Templot User -- --- from Robert Kosmider -- --- Thank you Martin, Wonderful reply. It seems that I need to modify some of my points a little to give a shorter blade (i.e. less flexing) as I pivoted at D instead of C. Of course the fixed fish plate at D should be insulating in the case of an all-metal (live frog) Vee. Thanks again Robert Parts of Templot Club may not function unless you enable JavaScript (also called Active Scripting) in your browser. Templot Club> Forums> Templot talk> Marks on templates and switch blades about Templot Club Templot Companion- User Guide- A-Z Index Templot Explained for beginners Please click: important information for new members and first-time visitors. indexing link for search engines back to top of page Please read this important note about ...
... web site about this layout: http://www.users.daelnet.co.uk/edmund/layout.htm He has promised to join us and say a bit more about the layout and trackwork. So we look forward to welcoming you, Edmund. regards, Martin. posted: 27 Jul 2008 23:00 from: edmund_kinder Hello Everyone I'm flattered that my humble efforts have been given approval. Basically, I started this project in 2001/2 as I managed to put a complete floor above my double garage at home (making sure adequate ventilation and insulation were installed too). For those of you who have looked at my web site http://www.users.daelnet.co.uk/edmund/layout.htm you will have read that the late David Jenkinson gave my layout his blessing and allowed me to use his Dent Head Junction trackplan. It was he who suggested the name Grisedale, and it is real honour do do this. The track used through most of the construction was from C& L Finescale along with their excellent templates. The pointwork in the fiddleyard is constructed from SMP with copper ...
... delay in responding. I have used Copydex to secure the templates to cork underlay as Martin advised. This works well and I shall look at the ballasting options when I have finished the station throat. Martin suggests diluted Copydex which I shall try in a scrap area. I shall also try diluted PVA following the success on the foam backed wallpaper. Building turnouts etc using chairs and other track components was a real challenge but I am learning techniques to make the process easier. For instance, I was getting through far too many insulated fishplates with bits flying off in all directions. I now use a spare sleeper, inserted between the track template sleepers to act as a guide when fitting them to the rail. Now, it is a rare occasion to lose a fishplate. Thanks again, Best wishes Peter posted: 2 Feb 2016 00:35 from: PeterD richard_t wrote: I've used crafting double-sided tape with some success in the past- the tape designed for pasting stuff into scrapbooks. These are designed to allow people to move stuff about ...
38. EM Gauge options
... with an almost zero radius where the flange meets the wheel back surface. Setting a pair of the Hornby wheels to 16.5 back-to-back and placing them on 18mm gauge track shows they are making contact only on the tyre tread with maybe 0.3mm side-to-side slop. I need to make some EM-SF crossing work soon so will check out the 'discovery' further. Is there any down-side to this plan? The class 31 is rather unusual in that it follows American practice in having an insulated gear muff and wheels live to stub axles that feed the track power into inserts in the axle boxes. If the omission of a radius between the flange and tyre back doesn't cause any negative issues does it open the way for the modification of other RTR wheels by simply turning 0.2mm off the tye backs? Mind you on most RTR models that take standard wheel/pickup systems it probably isn't worth it. Some of the smaller industrial prototypes modelled do have similar gear muff/stub axle set ups to the Class 31 so ...
... 2mm wide nickel-silver strip. Each half (either side of the black 'lump' is a 'U' shape with square corners. One leg of the 'U' is soldered to the rail and the other leg is fixed to the opposing leg on the other half of the bar. In either case, the 'joint' is then wrapped in black cotton thread and this is then soaked with superglue. The two legs are fixed together in two differing ways. a. by superglue with thin paper or card between them for insulation or by soldering to a small piece of double-sided 1mm think copper-clad. The tiebar then has a 2mm length of tubing soldered to it to received the drive from a Tortoise motor. But clear to me but I hope the rest of you understand my description. An alternative is to twist each half of the tiebar through 90deg between the centre joint and the 'leg' so that the leg, when bent at 90deg comes up beside the blade in the vertical. I'll try to draw this and upload it ...
40. Contact Details
... now back up and running. http://www.borg-rail.co.uk still has a problem but this should be resolved if not today then within the next day or so. I had hoped to park to co.uk on top of the com site but this is not proving possible at the moment. However both sites should be the same anyway. Don't forget to reload/refresh your browser view and possibly delete recent history to see the latest version. Apart from all the previous stuff on track and signals etc there is a new insulated tiebar available. No plastic parts or sleeving and very easy to fit. Stephen Parts of Templot Club may not function unless you enable JavaScript (also called Active Scripting) in your browser. Templot Club> Forums> Templot talk> Contact Details about Templot Club Templot Companion- User Guide- A-Z Index Templot Explained for beginners Please click: important information for new members and first-time visitors. indexing link for search engines back to top of page Please read this important note about copyright: Unless stated otherwise, ...
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