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... it. I'll try Chrome later! posted: 20 Feb 2017 19:13 from: Andrew Duncan Nigel Brown wrote: Thought the shed looked inviting as well. What form of heating are you using for it? Cheers Nigel Hello Nigel I'm using a 190w green house heater which gives background heat all year round. And for those days when its freezing and I'm working in there I have a little 2kw heater which is ususally set on 1kw. I can get away with so little heat because the floor has 4" of insulation in it and the walls and roof 6" and although Imade up the windows myself I did buy double glazing units for them as well. In fact the door which is curved has also got insulation in it as well...a bit mad or anal but I really enjoyed the whole experience of building it. Kind regards Andrew posted: 20 Feb 2017 21:34 from: Andrew Duncan Martin This image is uploaded from Chrome. It shows the Yeovil junction board which may make more sense of my description of the construction ...
... the final copperclad strip I use the C&L 0.5mm strip out of convenience, any piece of strip metal 0.5mm thick or less would do. You could also use the strip between the sleepers so all chair parts are used, I feel this would look more visible than the method I have used Attachment: attach_1998_2577_points_107.jpeg 522 posted: 26 Nov 2014 21:25 from: Trevor Walling HelloJohn, That is quite a neat idea. I am assuming the copperclad is soldered to the rails to create electrical continuity after you cut the insulating gaps?I am also assuming the copperclad gaps the rail from the sleeper about the same as a chair would? Regards Trevor. posted: 26 Nov 2014 22:01 from: Hayfield Trevor Hi You don't have to use copperclad strip, as any metal shim will work. Neither will there be any insulating gaps. The full length copperclad strip in the middle is there only for the duration of the initial build, and gapped electrically only for testing. It will be cut back to the rail sides as the other ...
3. hello
... aboard from a former resident of your part of the World, and good luck with your project. I grew up in Paisley just beside the Canal Line and I remember the four terminus stations in Glasgow quite well although my recollections are probably slightly suspect now Cheers! Andy posted: 5 Nov 2020 07:59 from: Phil O Hi Ian, Welcome to Templot Club. It looks as if you have an interesting project ahead of you. I have just one question before you get too far into the project, have you insulated the loft area you are using? The temperature swings in an uninsulated loft can wreak havoc with well laid track. Cheers. Phil. posted: 5 Nov 2020 08:12 from: Hayfield Ian Stainless steel rail has come in for some bad press recently, especially when trying to solder it I assume you are talking about C&L's ST baseplates, before investing too much in too much track It will be worthwhile seeing if they are compatible. At one show we sold quite a lot of rail as one society's ...
... point structure on their layout and if so which point motors have you used? I am replacing Peco Switches which are operated by either Peco or SEEP motors, both of which work satisfactorily on the Peco Switches but which I feel will be a bit sudden for what I want to do. Would these motors be powerful enough to bend the points to the necesseray curve and hold them in place? I suspect the locking mechanism would fail. Are there any recommendations for alternatives? 3.How are the tiebars attached? Obviously they must be insulated electrically. Is it the usual practice to use a PCB suitably modified with the actuating rod soldered to it? Not great for appearance but practical? I would appreciate any answers. Regards, ken posted: 11 Mar 2010 20:43 from: Jim Guthrie Ken, I use spring blades on all my pointwork- using Code 125 BH, Code 95 BH and Code 40 FB. It works very well. The spring of each blade effectively cancels the other out when you couple the blades together with the tiebar. It ...
... :bAChMhlxO74J:www.rmweb.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php%3Ff%3D5%26t%3D37908 regards, Martin. Hello there again Martin, I like the idea of getting my XTrKCad plan into Templot. I have visited all of the sites you have recommended and in fact have joined RMweb, I will spend more time on the others before deciding whether to join. regards, ken posted: 13 Jan 2010 07:41 from: Jim Guthrie Ken, PCB= Printed Circuit Board. You have to cut the copper layer to provide insulation between rails. PCB sleepers for plain track are normally supplied with the insulation gap but PCB strip for turnout construction requires you to cut the required gaps to suit your formations (that can be quite an interesting game with complex formations). You can use a razor saw or a fine cutting disk in a Dremel style tool to do the cutting of the gap, but you have to watch that you don't cut too deep and weaken the PCB base. I prefer to use a razor saw since I find I can control ...
... topic: 1146 Finescale Insulated Metal Tiebars posted: 14 Jun 2010 13:13 from: Stephen Freeman Hi, I've recently added a range of Finescale Metal Insulated Tiebars for scales/gauges 2mm scale to 7mm scale, to my range of products, you can see a picture of the 0 Gauge version here. Finescale Tiebars 0 Gauge 2_152349_290000000.jpg Borg-Rail 0 Gauge Stretcher Bars (Manufacturer's Photo) From: http://www.borg-rail.com Advantage over any other version of using copperclad 1) Copperclad moving tiebars are too rigid and may eventually break the soldered joint 2) Copperclad moving tiebars which use some sort of pin pivot can eventually fail due to the pivot wearing through the tiebar. Advantage over other scale tiebars 1) Being metal they are easy to connect to underboard point motors, a simple loop is all that is usually needed. 2) tiebar will deform rather than snap or break, but is rigid enough to operate blades. 3) Easy to alter to your exact standards.(within reason of course!) Last edited on ...
... more likely to experience expansion/contraction problems if it is subjected to direct sunlight. I can't say that I've ever seen any severe problems where this not the case. Do not, however rely on soldered fishplates for electrical continuity, it's asking for trouble. posted: 11 Apr 2012 12:09 from: LSWRArt If you are using the usual C&L track construction method with ply baseboards, glued granite chips or ash ballast on cork or rubber- can you use bare wire for the droppers? I have always used insulated wire, but wonder if this is really necessary? With multiple drops, would there be much leakage through the baseboard and ballast- especially at the high frequencies of DCC? Thanks, Arthur posted: 11 Apr 2012 12:19 from: Stephen Freeman Hi, Never used insulated wire for droppers even with DCC, never been a problem. Stephen LSWRArt wrote: If you are using the usual C&L track construction method with ply baseboards, glued granite chips or ash ballast on cork or rubber- can you use ...
... topic: 1137 Insulated Tiebars posted: 3 Jun 2010 07:18 from: Stephen Freeman Hi, Thought you'd all like to know that I am now doing Finescale Insulated Tiebars for either round or rectangular bars. Details are on my website. Here is a photo of a 7mm scale version fitted to an 0-SF Turnout142_030216_300000000.jpg posted: 20 Jun 2010 06:58 from: Stephen Freeman Hi, I am now doing special tiebars for double slips- all details are the website http://www.borg-rail.co.uk or http://www.borg-rail.com Stephen Parts of Templot Club may not function unless you enable JavaScript (also called Active Scripting) in your browser. Templot Club> Forums> Trackbuilding topics> Insulated Tiebars about Templot Club Templot Companion- User Guide- A-Z Index Templot Explained for beginners Please click: important information for new members and first-time visitors. indexing link for search engines back to top of page Please read this important note about copyright: Unless stated otherwise, all the files submitted to this web site ...
... :04 from: JFS Hi Tim TimRKirby wrote: @Howard Very nice- is that an image of the 7mm track from MRJ? Many thanks, but no, it is P4- there is something of a saga about it here:- http://www.scalefour.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f =78&t =1342 Best wishes, Howard. posted: 5 Jan 2013 23:19 from: Trevor Walling Hello, I am amazed at the complexity of your trackwork.Where do you start when it comes to creating insulation gaps for something so complex? posted: 6 Jan 2013 18:56 from: JFS Trevor Walling wrote: Where do you start when it comes to creating insulation gaps for something so complex? Hello Trevor, Well, the first thing is that even the most complex formation breaks down into standard bits- ie common crossings and obtuse crossings and from there you can work from two basic rules:- 1. all common crossing must have a polarity change-over switch worked by whichever pair of switch blades directs the traffic ...
... fishplate between chairs with no other means of support. http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/56856-midland-railway-prototype-turnout-design-loose-heel-turnouts/#entry700771 I'll also try raising the matter on the Caledonian Railway forum. Jim. posted: 9 Nov 2015 17:21 from: Trevor Walling Hello Jim, (I'm also wondering how I am going to model the typical Caledonian stretcher bars.) I seem to recall seeing it done by inserting them into insulating bushes fitted to each blade. Page 105 An Approach to Building Finescale Track in 4mm by Iain Rice Regards. posted: 9 Nov 2015 20:03 from: Jim Guthrie Trevor Walling wrote: I seem to recall seeing it done by inserting them into insulating bushes fitted to each blade. Page 105 An Approach to Building Finescale Track in 4mm by Iain Rice Regards. Trevor, You reminded me that I got a copy of this book many years ago and I've just dug it out. It gives me some confidence that ...
... rail dimensions apparently apply also to plain diamond-crossings. So that means some more timber shoving for GWR modellers. I believe scans of these drawings are available on the Scalefour Society web site. edit: yes, see: http://www.scalefour.org/resources/GWRtracknotes/R1783.pdf regards, Martin. posted: 11 Apr 2012 14:20 from: Stephen Freeman Hi, Yes I have found some photographic evidence to support the continuous wing/stock rail. Unfortunately for most people they will still require a rail break for insulation/polarity purposes. Now how to make an invisible insulated joint? Filler and paint? posted: 11 Apr 2012 15:04 from: Paul Boyd Unfortunately for most people they will still require a rail break for insulation/polarity purposes. Yup- I take the view that as I have to have a break for electrical purposes, I might as well make that break look prototypical (fishplated) even if it isn't Parts of Templot Club may not function unless you enable JavaScript (also called Active Scripting) in your ...
... I always use small brass or N/S strips to secure the different bits of rail which comprise the crossings. These can then be secured to the (plywood) sleepers using Exopy. It has the advantage that the rails are electrically bonded in the process and makes very strong trackwork. I get the strip from fret waste chosen to support the rail at the same height as the chairs. (I did read an article- in MRJ?- where someone used PCB strip for this exact purpose- but why- no insulation is needed). You can see from the pic that I use chairs slipped on the ends of the rails to hold the rail "vertical"- this makes the job doable with only two hands! I would recommend the Exactoscale special chairs for diamonds and slips- they look excellent. Just be aware that the timbering for these seems to be slightly different from that produced by the default Templot settings (don't know why- Martin?) A massive advantage of using Templot is that you can print off a second version ...
13. Cutting Rail
... http://www.finescale.org.uk posted: 20 Feb 2008 17:57 from: Brian Lewis Apologies Richard, I wanted to check the spelling of a word and pressed 'Send' instead, thus ignoring the second part of your question. Pre-rolling of the rail will work with steel rail, but is less successful on nickel silver rail- especially 'HiNi' which is harder and springier than steel and normal nickel silver. Now air gaps to not appear on prototype railways- not intentionally anyway... and you can purchase insulating fish-plates and when glued with an adhesive like Loctite 435, will hold rails in line. Don't forget also, that generally, the two sleepers surrounding any joint will usually be closer together than the normal sleeper spacing and will also be 12" wide. By doing this you help restrain the curve of the rail, as well as making your layout more prototypical. But generally it is better to plan your section breaks to avoid gaps on curves where possible. Regards Brian Lewis Carrs -- C+ L Finescale ...
... of course, this must be done with precision. Using plastic chairs, you still have to cut these and glue to the rails. However, you can also use cast chairs which if you good at it, you can solder to the rivets. I think, at the end of the day Peter, it is up to you to decide what is best for you, and in particular, what you are comfortable in doing to achieve the best result. 3. As to underlay, cork is still a good sound insulator and works well, and is fairly easy to work with. But there are modern materials available, which will most likely perform just as well. I am not particularly up on these, and perhaps some one else in the forum can give an input to this discussion of underlay to advise you better. I hope this helps Peter. All the best, Brian. 1853_271431_440000000.png 1853_271433_280000000.png 1853_271436_230000000.png 1853_271437_280000000.png Last edited on 27 Mar 2014 19:44 by Brian Nicholls posted: 28 Mar 2014 10:37 from: PeterD Hello Brian ...
... functional, and such bars are usually added as cosmetic additions. The actual blade movement being achieved using a non-prototypical "tie-bar". Soldering a switch blade directly to a copper-laminate "tie-bar" is not always very reliable, because such a bar does not have the lateral flexibility of a prototype stretcher bar. The soldered joint is subjected to a twisting force, leading to fracture. It is more reliable to arrange a pivoted fixing of some kind. The use of small pins in an insulated bar is usually the best solution. By not having to be directly soldered to, such a bar can be narrower, and can be disguised by gluing on a sprinkling of ballast. Such a bar can be made by removing all the copper from a narrow strip of fibreglass copper-laminate. For UK prototype, a comprehensive range of track parts is available from C&L and Exactoscale: http://www.finescale.org.uk http://www.p4track.co.uk If you are modelling non-UK prototype, you may want to have ...
... . But that garden railway....it is a itch that just wont go away. Currently i am rebuilding my whole house, it would cost more than all the locos i would like to have, even rtr and prebuild.(t3 bello, ns6300, challanger, big boy, aa20, hugh boy, big joe, some garrats ect) And the effort you put in something and it works?!?! that feeling.... Yes i am working class and have a good running company in the insulation and i was a carpenter for 30 years. I always made good money, but it is humanity's own: they want to have what they can't get. If you need to do a 100 switches for 1 euro or 50 euro each...i would even go with wooden point motors, as long as it works. put a dummy next to your railway to let it look good, so what: i am happy. If you are happy with spending 50 euro per turnout, with the money you have ...
... 3d printing as much as possible, it costs a lot more time with a 3d drawing program and 3d print a frog than make it by hand. Well by hand, not entirely, i use machines and jigs for it. Saw zall/saber saw/reciprocating saw?, jig saw, table saw and a bench drill/drill press? As a side note the 3d printer must print my locs and rolling stock I am/was a master carpenter by trade for 30 years+, now i have a successful insulation business. Martin wrote: The flare angles on the wing rail ends are quite important, otherwise there is a risk of wheel flanges hitting the end of the rail. This is the type of specific info i am very short of, i can copy things that i see but if i dont know why or how, a mistake is easy made, that is why i started this topic with a lot of picture's, to fine tune my frogs and get the best measurement/dimensions needed for the best performance. Advice ...
18. What gauge ?
... 43xx loco from eBay quite some years ago, stated as EM gauge. Seems to be scratch built, very nicely made but lacking some finer details. It had no tender and as can be seen never intended to be motorised. It seems to have a strange gauge Back to back 17.3 mm (21.47 mm outer) looks to be about 18.4 (or more) gauge) Wheel width 1.98 mm diameter 22.86 over tyres 23.92 over flanges the chassis is 15.88 mm wide Perhaps built just as a scale model, it has non insulated wheels and no cut out for a motor 982_191258_570000000.jpg 982_191259_240000000.jpg 982_191259_390000000.jpg Attachment: attach_2966_3585_29.jpeg 95 posted: 19 Dec 2019 18:40 from: Rob Manchester Hi John, Sounds like an attempt at P4 to me. The wheel flanges are rather fine for much else and the wheel width also suggests P4. Maybe the builder was ahead of his/her time and intended it to be remote controlled and tender driven running on Martin's 3D printed track Rob posted: 20 Dec 2019 09:26 from: Hayfield I could be wrong, ...
... in a vice using a piece of scrap brass (from an old fret) either side of the joggle point and on opposite sides of the rail As far as a hinge on the very short switch rail, there are two methods. Either a cosmetic approach by cutting a notch in the top of the rail and soldering an etched fishplate both sides. Or (as I do for slips) use one of the Exactoscale cast brass fishplates, soldering it to the closure rail only. I use the Exactoscale plastic ones for both insulating and joining the closure rail to the wing rail, but these areas are supported by chairs as the plastic fishplates are quite delicate. I have in the past soldered etched fishplates to the closure rails, but you need to find a source of thick etched plates posted: 14 Feb 2019 09:35 from: Andrew Howlett In 7mm I also build loose-heel switches as loose heel with C&L lost wax fishplates. In addition I drill 0.95mm hole through the rail web on the blades and 1.00mm holes through closure ...
... more accurate the single slip video. Please help me understand where I have gone wrong. Hi Godders, You haven't gone wrong. What you may have missed is this message: topic 3067- message 21817 Which illustrates why I really must spend more time on the docs. For a double-slip flatter than 1:6.5, there is an option to move the switch tips one timber space further back away from the V-crossing: 2_271320_590000000.png This provides some increased model clearance for the opened blades and the need to maintain insulation between them, and corresponds to some prototype practice. Also more choice in deciding exactly where to make the rail gap in front of them. Prototypes vary in the position of that rail joint -- on the GWR the wing rail and switch stock rail are in one piece. That's not an option on a 2-rail model. By default this increased double-slip clearance is on for 00/EM etc, but off for P4/S7 etc. This can be changed as required. It does of course ...
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