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... you can no longer manage to do it? It would be a heck of a legacy to leave behind after all the years of effort you have put into it. It would be a real shame if it was lost upon your demise. Regards. Trevor. posted: 20 Jan 2018 22:40 from: Martin Wynne Trevor Walling wrote: But have you considered the future of Templot when you can no longer manage to do it? Hi Trevor, My master plan was that by now someone half my age would have produced a far superior "son of Templot" program, and I could put my feet up. But at present I don't see any sign of that. As I've mentioned before, Templot is a very old program. A large chunk of the code was written in 1980 -- that's nearly 40 years ago. The compiler which I use is also a very old program. How long it will all go on working on Windows is a worry. Assuming Windows still exists in its present form, even. Surprisingly, at ...
22. RSU Wanted
... you heard is not what I meant". (Robert McCloskey) --- posted: 14 Aug 2007 16:04 from: Jim Guthrie Raymond wrote: Anyone out there have a London Road/Fourtrack RSU in good condition they want to sell? Raymond, In case you are interested, new ones now seem to be available. I quote from a message on the 7mm list a short while ago. "Often people are enquiring about RSU's and I now know that a gentleman called Peter from Swanage Models is now producing new ones ..They are based on the Dick Ganderton one and the one I saw at Reading show in May looked very good ..Peter's number is 01929 424650 ..Hope this is of some use to people...Jim" I have a Ganderton Graskop RSU and it is very good. Jim. Last edited on 14 Aug 2007 16:04 by Jim Guthrie posted: 14 Aug 2007 20:16 from: Paul Boyd Jim quoted: Often people are enquiring about RSUs.... This presumably implies there's still a demand ...
23. Templot docs
... I know not where to look for instructions. We have an apparent stalemate- for years I have been saying we really need a fully indexed 'How to...' booklet. I recall I even offered to print and publish it. Martin counters this suggestion with two oft repeated comments: 1. "You cannot have enhancements if I am spendimg time engaged on other things". Possibly true, but what good are enhancements if you cannot get to grips with the basic programme? Now Martin is a helpful chap and produces 'one off solutions' to help the confused. Surely this in itself is quite time consuming. And would not proper documentation obviate the majority of the problems before the occur? 2. "I began writing this programme more than 20 years ago and it was intended for my own use". Yes- and we are all grateful that you share it with us. But it is now no less a commercial offering than say CorelDraw, (which comes with a 450 page User Guide and two other helpful publications). ...
24. Despair
... accomplish. I would further emphasize that reading the tutorials is only a start. To get the most out of them it is helpful if not necessary to follow and duplicate what the tutorial is doing. I have found it most helpful to watch your video tutorials and then make up my own printed (with screen shot pictures) tutorials. Throughout this process I have made a number of misteaks (Spelling error intentional) but I have learned much about both track work and how Templot works to make partial templates that are used to produce some fantastic trackwork. Hope this helps all. Regards John P in Alberta posted: 18 Mar 2009 09:32 from: Pete Brownlow Hi Martin, I sympathise with you- I do IT support and you do occasionally get users who will take their frustrations out on you. I had a user recently who seriously told me that the solution I was proposing to his problem was unacceptable because it meant he would have to think about it! My suggestion (and I think you should do this with all of us Templot ...
... I have ever attempted before, but I think that if I can do it well, it will be a rather stunning model both to look at, and to operate. Can anyone point me in the right direction of where you would start this? What techniques and jigs are there that would be of use to make constructing so much track simpler? Would it be likely that the frogs used on all the points are the same, meaning that I can get away with a single frog jig? Are there appropriate jigs for producing the point blades? I intend to use code 75 rail (Open to being convinced to use bullhead rail, else flatbottom). And the era it will be set in is approx 1950. Thanks Julia posted: 5 Mar 2011 00:32 from: Nigel Brown Hi Julia Here's a few thoughts. Firstly, if you're going to have a bash at this epic, get it right, otherwise it's probably not worth it. So if the prototype uses BH rail, use BH. For switches and crossing V's, ...
... one approach is much the best way forward. Nigel Last edited on 1 Sep 2017 15:44 by Nigel Brown posted: 1 Sep 2017 15:52 from: Charles Orr Looks great on my ultra wide monitor (3440x1440) Charles posted: 1 Sep 2017 20:39 from: Rob Manchester Hi Martin, Looks very good to me, contents, A-Z and Templot club all display together on my 1920x1080 monitor. Nothing to do with Templot but the 'hold CTRL to open in an additional tab' will often produce the same as not holding it depending on browser settings. Good luck with the 'documentation'. Rob posted: 2 Sep 2017 08:27 from: Martin Wynne Thanks for the favourable comments. Rob Manchester wrote: Nothing to do with Templot but the 'hold CTRL to open in an additional tab' will often produce the same as not holding it depending on browser settings. Hi Rob, In this case pages open in a named tab, so without CTRL they should always open in the same tab. It seems to ...
... is cut with the grain. It's a loft layout and so it is quite dry up there so they will only get moisture when I add water/pva mix for ballasting. I'm using exactoscale chairs at the moment and they are really brittle, breaking no end, might switch to c&l ones as they don't look much different, when painted I don't think anyone would be able to tell I prefer the Exactoscale chairs to the C&L ones! I think the moulded detail is better and the moulds are currently producing less flash, at least on most types of chair. The Exactoscale ones seem to take less solvent to produce a good bond in my view but that may be subjective. Are you staining the timbers/sleepers before laying them and if so what with? Rob posted: 2 May 2018 12:21 from: Jim Guthrie Rob Manchester wrote: Michael Henfrey wrote: Thanks Rob, Yeah the ply is cut with the grain. It's a loft layout and so it is quite dry up there so they will only get ...
... shapes: Background picture shapes can now be locked to the location of the notch or the spacing ring when being scaled to size. This makes it much easier to adjust the size to match the tracks or other known features when the auto-scaling functions cannot be used. On the background shapes dialog, click the picture options tab> when scaling lock to: options. wrapping of picture shape images: There is a new function to straighten along the control template, before using the wrap along the control template function. This produces a better result than straightening by wrapping to a mirrored template. The buttons are on the modify shape tab on the background shapes dialog. obtain to the control: This feature now includes a function to obtain the turnout radius of the background template as the main-road curving radius of the control template. This is useful when overlaying partial templates. This function is not available if the background template is plain track or contains a transition curve. switch labels: The significant rail locations within the switch on the printed templates are ...
... over functional chairs. I'd be much happier if these components where dual sourced( and this isn't an opinion voiced as a result of the recent takeover of C&L) I suspect that the 4mm, 7mm and Gauge 1 societies have not got involved with chairs and rail because there has always been good trade sources for these products. It is an expensive business to get a mould for the chairs made so possibly much better use can be made of these societies' funds. The 2mm, 3mm and S scale societies do produce their own plastic chairs and rail for members so there is a precedent for doing it if there are no commercial supplies. I was on the S scale Society committee when the decision was taken to proceed with getting our own plastic chairs produced, and also a Code 87 bullhead rail drawn to go with them. It was quite a bit of money to commit for a small society of around 100 members and the minimum order quantites from the plastic moulder and the rail drawing company meant that we had to obtain a ten year ...
... G-scale model of a 15" miniature railway such as: http://www.ravenglass-railway.co.uk Perhaps the same question can be asked in a different way -- are you using G-scale wheels and rails, closing them in to 16.5mm gauge? Or are you using standard H0 wheels and rails? It makes a big difference to the finished appearance of the track, because of the width of the rails and flangeway gaps, and the size of the timbers (ties). In the former case you might produce something like this: gn15_9ft_65.png Is that something like what you are asking for? In the UK and Templot, G-scale is called "No. 3 Gauge" and you can find it in Templot in the standard list: 2.5" track gauge, 13.5mm/ft (1 :22.58) scale. It's exactly half of the model engineer's No. 5 Gauge (5 inch track gauge): gauge3.png After which you can change the track gauge, timber (tie) sizes etc., to whatever the Gn15 ...
... gauge but soon found that it did not meet my pre grouping interests so moved to 2mmFS. My real road to Damascus moment was building my first 2mm track. It just looked right, even allowing for my uneven soldering so consigned the N gauge track to the toy box. I bought Templot early this year and have followed the tutorials, "played around" with it and feel I have grasped the basics at least. My main interest is Great Central so on to my query. To build skills I am planning to produce, with the aid of Templot, a model of Charwelton based on the 1900 survey, when it was a simple through station and small goods yard. Can anybody advise me as to the timbering used on turnouts by the GCR when the London Extension was built? Also are they likely to have used a standard V crossing angle on most turnouts or would each one have been determined by location? Lastly they used 30' rails and 9' sleepers with 11 sleepers per length; how far in from the rail ends for ...
32. LSWR Turnouts
... button on the right. To change the settings, click the set custom switch... button, and read all the help notes. Above is for 091c, but 074b is essentially the same. regards, Martin. posted: 14 Sep 2009 23:50 from: Brian Lewis philchudley wrote: I may use the new C& L Timber Tracks (they do a LSWR B7) so I need to confirm and maybe modify my plan before construction. Cheers Phil Chudley Hi Phil, The reason that I have only produced the LSWR B7, slip and straight track is that is what I was asked to produce. The client provided the drawings. I am always happy to produce Timber Tracks for any railway, provided you have an accurate drawing with which I can work. I have a fair collection of Midland Rly drawings, which I will be starting on as soon as time permits. Let me know if I can help in any way. Regards Brian Lewis. posted: 16 Sep 2009 09:19 from: philchudley Thanks Martin and ...
... 01:49 from: Martin Wynne Andrew Barrowman wrote: For home printing I've completely abandoned any suggestion of keys. The outside jaw just presents a vertical surface that contacts both the foot and head of the rail. The inside jaw presses on the rail's web to jamb the rail against the outside "jaw" while providing enough vertical force to keep the rail in the jaws. Hi Andy, Yes, I realised you are doing that. I'm trying to create something that will scale up to the larger scales. If it produces a reasonable looking chair in 7mm scale resin I shall be well chuffed. I know it may have to be drastically downgraded for 4mm scale and/or filament printing, but I will cross that bridge when I get there. It would be easy enough to fill in under the outer half of the key. What is the nozzle diameter on your printer? I'm just measuring the chimney to see if Father Christmas could get a 3D printer down it. cheers, Martin. posted: 25 Nov 2018 02:08 from ...
... One interesting point that I stumbled across while flicking through it is on the sheet covering turnout construction using C&L components (23.6.4). It says that you "do not want a track gauge that has a firm grip on the running head and holds the rail upright" since as soon as you remove the gauge the chairs will tilt the rail inwards (as they are supposed to) therefore making the track under-gauge. I've never seen this mentioned anywhere before. Can anyone expand on this? Do the gauges produced by the Scalefour Society have this problem with track constructed using C&L chairs and if so how do people get around it? The digest sheet recommends turning down the flanges on roller gauges so that only the top of the rail head is engaged. Is this necessary? How is it done? What about the other types of gauges? Or is this digest sheet referring to older types of gauges no longer available? I presume there are plenty of people out there building P4 track with C&L components! Matt ...
... topic: 20 NER interlaced turnouts posted: 23 May 2007 00:45 from: Martin Wynne Hi Bob, Just a note to say I haven't forgotten your NER templates. I hope to upload something for you soon. regards, Martin. posted: 23 May 2007 19:37 from: Bob Ellis Hi Martin, You wrote: Just a note to say I haven't forgotten your NER templates. Thanks for letting me know. There is no hurry. I have to produce a track plan for my test track first. I am about to have a go at producing a 'background shape' 69 inches by 18 inches on which to construct the track plan. Hopefully, this will be a simple enough task for me to do without assistance. If not...watch this space! Best wishes, Bob Ellis posted: 13 Dec 2007 21:22 from: Bob Ellis Martin Wynne wrote: Hi Bob, Just a note to say I haven't forgotten your NER templates. I hope to upload something for you soon. regards, Martin ...
... sharp distinction in the 4mm hobby between finescale and RTR -- build or buy -- has largely disappeared. But not for track. There the distinction remains and I don't think it will ever be bridged. If you build your own track you can have it in infinite variety of sizes and radii, on flowing curves, closely fitting to your space, matching any prototype formation you can find. If you buy it you are always going to be limited to a small selection of snap-together pieces. Even if Peco produce a perfect bullhead track system for 00, you still won't be able to have a 1:7.5 crossover on 11 chains radius with extended check rails and NER-style switches. Callum, if you are reading this, you are welcome to discuss 00-SF here. You can post your track plans and layout progress pictures here just the same as on RMweb. I'm running this forum and you have my word that no-one will be allowed to make fun of you here. Not that I imagine for a ...
... the data distortion functions (main> program panel, then program> expert> data distortions> menu options), although I'm not too hopeful about that -- and I'm minded to remove them from Templot in future. It's a long time since I dismantled a printer, so I don't have much idea how the PX710W paper feed works, sorry. Some general points to bear in mind are: 1. Laser printers heat the paper, which can cause differential shrinkage and mis-match problems. Generally ink-jet printers produce much better results for accurate track templates. 2. Don't use high resolution "photo quality" printing for track templates. It is much better to set the plain "Text" or "Letter Quality" option in the 300dpi to 720dpi range. 3. Don't use shiny paper which might slip on the feed rollers. Matt paper or thin card is better. 4. Consistent paper feed relies on having a clean perfectly round roller with no accumulations of fluff or other foreign matter. Don't leave the printer parked with paper ...
... present you are creating a double-junction having a regular-type diamond-crossing, where all the radii are the same and in the same direction. For the type of diverging double-junction which you want, you need to create an irregular-type diamond-crossing. There are two ways to do that. Method A. The easy way is to create a curviform ladder: 1. set up the first turnout and change the type of V-crossing to curviform. Adjust the size of the turnout to produce the required branch radius: 2_281652_350000003.png 2. click the option to create a curviform ladder: 2_281652_350000002.png 3. this is the result. Click to create a branch track off the half-diamond: 2_281652_350000001.png 4. create double-track from it. Split off and insert the second turnout. Snake it along (CTRL+ F6 mouse action) to align with the branch track. Zoom in for a precise result. 2_281652_350000000.png You should normally end up with the two turnouts staggered slightly. That's correct geometry and prototypical. It ...
... this might be a problem of trying to put an exact geometry with the "far too coarse and overscale" flangeways of P4. In effect to open up the flangeways to .68mm rather than .58 I have caused the knuckle to be .2mm too long or too wide. I must admit that it LOOKS wrong too- I've never seen a turnout (even NYMR, Beamish, Wensleydale) that has such gentle curves. Any comments would be appreciated. I certainly don't want to go back to using the sharp bend that you can produce on the S4 jig! Many thanks. Derek posted: 22 Nov 2015 21:59 from: Martin Wynne Hi Derek, The widest part of the crossing gap is immediately in front of the blunt nose. That's 2 flangeway gaps plus the blunt nose width. Your wheels must be wider than that. For P4 with overscale flangeways that is 2 x 0.68mm+ 0.25mm= 1.61mm. Wagon wheels are usually 5" wide, which scales to 1.67mm, so only just wide enough to span the gap. In fact not ...
... alignments stick it down (or solder it or whatever) one piece at a time, rechecking the alignments as you proceed. Dave R Last edited on 21 Mar 2010 17:22 by David R posted: 23 Mar 2010 22:58 from: Paul Boyd Dave R wrote: get LOTS of track gauges and I do mean lots, you'll need at least a half-a -dozen for a single plain turnout Thank you! That, and Dave Bradwell's comments about the amount of gauge widening (or lack of) produced by 3-point gauges means I've just spent an evening making half a dozen roller gauges, three at+ 0.1mm and three at+ 0.25mm (working in P4). The trickiest bit was making a tool of just the right width to give a groove that snugly fits the rail head. I've got loads of straight 18.83mm gauges but was blindly relying on the 3-point gauges to produce widening without actually checking what they were doing! Tomorrow I'm going to rebuild half a turnout... posted: 23 Mar ...
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