Templot Club Archive - Search Results
To search again, click the Back button in your browser.
Search results for: sharpening
8 results found.
... pillar drill and the KT-70 coordinate table (loco gearboxes, oddly enough!). But today, I took delivery of a vertical slide for my Unimat 4, so I'm getting a better idea of what I might be able to do with it. posted: 7 Dec 2007 01:52 from: Brian McK Just dug out my fixture for milling vees for a hasty photo. Hope it is self explanatory as I won't be about for a day or two to answer questions. A small diameter (and easily sharpened) fly-cutter is passed through the notch in the vertically standing fixture with rails clamped at both sides. Left hand and right hand crossing vees are accommodated by grooves in both ends of the fixture. Only one crossing angle is provided per jig. O.T. That's one very tidy Bridgeport in the photo along with a youthful Martin. Did he fit up the stepper or servo drives on those aluminium plates? Is the motor at top for the drawbar? -Brian McKenzie Attachment: attach_172_273_Rail_vee_milling_fi xture_8286.jpg 1254 posted: 7 Dec ...
... width you are able to produce for roller track gauges? I use standard parting tools for turning the rail slots but getting blades thin enough for 4mm use is difficult- unless maybe you make your own? Rob posted: 24 Nov 2018 00:32 from: Andrew Barrowman Hi Rob, I grind my own from square HSS stock. It's not difficult. You just need to keep dipping the HSS in water to maintain the hardness. The final step is to polish it down to size with a flat stone or a diamond sharpening plate. Andy posted: 24 Nov 2018 23:42 from: Rob Manchester Andrew Barrowman wrote: Hi Rob, I grind my own from square HSS stock. It's not difficult. You just need to keep dipping the HSS in water to maintain the hardness. The final step is to polish it down to size with a flat stone or a diamond sharpening plate. Andy Hi Andy, Can you explain more? Are you also turning the stock to make roller gauges or using the square section as the finished gauge? ...
... I'm sure Thunderbird is fine for most users, I just don't see the step change over OE that's so obvious for Firefox v. IE. But maybe I haven't used it enough to see the difference -- if I didn't also have JBMail and Mailbag Assistant I'm sure OE would be driving me mad and I would be looking for an alternative. regards, Martin. Picking up on several kind replies...ah, I remember the good old days when the only problems were making sure one had enough ink,& sharpening the quill to a perfect shape!!! Prior to Paul's reply, I had done battle with "Account Settings"& entered the separate server details, but the problems persisted. Yes, server 'A' does block other ISPs; as mentioned, it will not allow me to access my webmail on their site if I am out of Britain& they will not allow me to go to it, or through OE, via another provider- there is an instant e-mail saying "Your are trying to access ...
... . posted: 6 Dec 2007 22:14 from: Templot User -- --- from Andy Reichert -- --- rodney_hills wrote: Track Video- http://www.handlaidtrack.com/nmra-online.php 'Demystifying the NMRA Standards' The title is somewhat misleading as these are not produced nor endorsed in any way by the NMRA. The NMRA frog design explanation and recommendations are as published on their website http://www.nmra.org under the general standards section. In particular the NMRA does NOT specifically recommend (unprototypical) sharpening of the frog vee point, and especially not as a means of justifying the non-standard use of code 88 wheels. The NMRA is also neutral with the idea of including the very prototypical "filler" blocks that normally are fitted at various points in the flangeway. Most importantly, the NMRA does not recommend ANY gauge widening through the frog area of a turnout. Quite the reverse in fact. The latest review of the standards is emphasizing that the gauge tolerances should not be used within the turnout area, as ...
... with the blade flexibility, requires the 2.2mm movement. You could decrease this movement by having a stiffer blade and that would depend on how you had filed up the original blade. The recommended way is to file the planing on the outer side of the point blade to half the width of the rail, then file the tip to a point by filing only the top of the inner side of the rail so that the foot of the rail is left at half width to retain as much stiffness as possible. If you have sharpened the point blade by filing both top and bottom of the rail, then the tip end will be very flexible. Another thing you might consider is hingeing the point blade rather than having it fixed at the heel so that the flexibility of the blade doesn't become a factor in the operation of the turnout. Jim. Last edited on 6 Feb 2011 00:00 by Jim Guthrie posted: 6 Feb 2011 09:01 from: polybear Hi Jim, Thanks for the reply. I'm using Code 75 Bullhead rail, and ...
... you refer to the Slew& Nudge function, and having read the bit on the link you sent about "swelling" I wondered if I could use that to good effect instead of Slew& Nudge to push the "up main line" out where it crosses the river on two separate over bridges(the line used to single) and the lines get significantly further apart for a while? Later still, in referring to the junction where I have the "dogleg"(incorrectly named I see now- its actually a sharpening of the curve) you refer to moving the peg along the curve and reading off the radius (which I can now do with F6 curve function hooray!) and then replacing the transition curve with some fixed radius sections. Firstly I've not found a way of turning off transition curves once created (Id like to know how if its possible) and secondly I've not found a way to interrupt them at will either. If, as you say doing this does make it easier to create the diamond at the centre of ...
... on the wing rail before reaching the vee. If you use RTR-type wheels or Markits driving wheels, they are even wider. However if you use kit wheels, you may feel that it is worth making the vee a bit sharper, to allow for the small bevel between the face and tread of the wheel, and the top corner radius on the rail. These factors reduce the effective width of the wheel by a fraction, and widen the effective width of the gap by a fraction, respectively. So maybe sharpen the vee to 0.15mm wide nose, thus ensuring that the tread part of the wheel is always resting on the top surface part of the rail. It is unfortunate that the original designers of the EM wheel profile didn't allow for these factors by making the minimum wheel width 2.4mm. For more details of wheel settings and gaps for EM, see this page (scroll down): http://00-sf.org.uk and add 2mm to the relevant dimensions. But note that by default, Templot draws the templates with a ...
... "maximum" (54mm) or "minimum" (45mm) widening. Below, "maximum" widening is shown by the green line, "minimum" widening by the yellowy-brown one. You can see that they only precisely intersect the prototype "steps" at 5.5 chains. Thus they are an "interpretation" of the prototype. For exact precision, don't use a triangular tool, get some graduated gauges (see photo below). We often use sharper curves than the prototype, so as the radius sharpens below the point that we get 0.25mm widening we should stop using the triangular tool and instead use a tool of our gauge plus 0.25mm, the C&L P4 tool of+ 0.3 is the nearest equivalent. However, no-one will be able to see the widening, so the question is, how necessary is it to have prototypical gauge widening? – as wheels in 00, EM and P4 have a narrow back to back relative to the track. In P4 we have the best part of 0.2mm more clearance ...
Search took 0.085 seconds
Back to Templot Club