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Search results for: stockrails
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... topic: 3257 Slide chair to stock rail bonding posted: 17 Apr 2018 21:47 from: Rob Manchester Hi, Do people on here just use standard superglue to bond slide chairs to the stockrail? I notice a post advocating Loctite 435 adhesive for this but is this over the top? I use cheap cyano/superglue for many modelling tasks but just buy the discount shop type where you get 10 little tubes for a pound. Everytime I buy a better brand it gets used a couple of times and has gone 'off' when I next want it. Tried storing in fridge/putting clingfilm over lid etc but doesn't help with me. Don't want to go to expense of Loctite 435 if that is going to happen. Thanks for any suggestions. Rob posted: 17 Apr 2018 22:40 from: Ian Allen Rob, To be honest, I've just used Butanone to make a bond between the rail and chair and that always seems to suffice. Ian posted: 17 Apr 2018 23:40 from: Rob Manchester Ian Allen wrote ...
... cooperative wife who usually can fathom these things out but in this case it even got the better of her. So child number one had to come to our rescue. Hes a computer programmer and he struggled a bit. However in the end the fiendish brain of whoever wrote the instructions was no match for the combined might of the Bluett- Duncan family who eventually triumphed! And, I discovered it could do sequential labelling as well. Fanatastic! Here are a couple more photos of progress to date. Having wired up the stockrails to the to the relevant switch blades, the crossing feeds through to the blue relays controlled by the Megapoints boards and the servos also wired up to the Megapoints boards, I'm getting close to testing the track under power. Very exciting! And yes I know it looks like nothing on earth at the moment, but with a can of Halfords grey primer wafted over it in a week or twos time, it'll take on a more homogeneous feel I think? less Battle of the Somme more Seurat or Manet. 2787_281735_190000000.jpg And ...
... that some of the various articles and commercial sources have been recorded in on topic. However, to see some of the more original ideas that were new to me is fantastic. Believe me I have been looking for the ideal method for several decades now since first reading about self build track in an MRC show guide mentioning S scale and a @70 Railway modeler article making points from balsa and code 100 rail. The second question I have is that while I make tiebars hold the switch rails down to the level of the stockrails positively. I see often others don't do you have trouble with rising switchrails causing trouble or is it my fetish for belt and braises? GSmorris posted: 21 Sep 2008 21:54 from: Dasatcopthorne Generally the switchrails behave themselves. But if I have a pair that tend to rise, I solder a shaort length of NS wire to the underside of the switchrail so that it extends under the stockrail. How do you yours? Dave posted: 22 Sep 2008 12:58 from: gsmorris Hi. I use thin ...
... topic: 979 Laser Cut Templates posted: 23 Nov 2009 14:47 from: Donald MacLean I have seen posts on the forum regarding availability of laser cut sleeper configurations for complex track sections. (C& L) My (convoluted) question is this. As 'printed' templates can be developed showing only inner stockrail faces and crossing vees, is it possible to derive CAD-type (DXF?) machine readable outputs of specific point formations so that 'physical' templates could be cut out of wood or plastic of appropriate thickness? This would simplify the accurate fixing of the outer rails and crossing. I realize that this would only benefit those who are content with using a sub-set of 'standard' templates. In my case straight B-6s, and curved B-8s. But as I will need about thirty sets of points on my 'new-and-improved' layout it would appear a cost effective way of proceeding. [I am using Canadian 'FastTrack' filing jigs to prepare the crossing vees and points planing.] ...
... read from both you and Martin that its neigh on inevitable that in everything bar S4 we have to move the "joint/ pivot point" up towards the crossing. I'd always felt it was cheating a bit to do this, which of course it is, but seems I'm in good company! The other important consideration here for me, and you I presume, is that this where I make the electrical break for the crossing polarity, so I need there to be a decent physical distance between that joint and the adjoining stockrail to ensure the backs of the wheels can't touch the closure rail, unlikely as that may be? Kind regards Andrew Last edited on 18 Feb 2019 04:04 by Andrew Duncan posted: 18 Feb 2019 04:44 from: Matt M. Hi John, I shouldn't post late at night while trying to do calculations in my head. The ferrule was over 1 inch but the movement I thought would be less that an inch travel. Having gone through some drawings to confirm, the set could be anywhere between 7 ...
... using only hand tools. The angle on the switch rail top, and its height, also need to be precisely matched to the stock rail. I have never seen a model version of chamfered planing in the smaller scales, although there is always a first time of course. Anyone? regards, Martin. posted: 2 Jan 2011 21:31 from: polybear Hi Martin/all, Many thanks for the excellent reply! I've spent the afternoon trackbuilding and have used the above technique to create a set in the curved stockrail- significantly overdoing it in the process! It's surprising just how little a "tap" is required in order to create the "set". I couldn't visualise 1:32& 1:24 angles so I converted them: 1.79 degrees for B switches, and 2.39 degrees for A switches. Hopefully more progress tomorrow. Regards, Brian Tulley Parts of Templot Club may not function unless you enable JavaScript (also called Active Scripting) in your browser. Templot Club> Forums> Trackbuilding topics> Turnout Stock Rails about ...
... rail in general the joints are staggered. I guess Ill just compromise and skip it, setting it to the shortest distance in my drawing. 2094_221300_480000000.png Looks like I have it right there, 4' 6"= 54 inches Next is length of switch rail blade, this is also hard since according to the prototype drawing they are not of the same length. To avoid rail joint marks that are wrong anyway I just enter 0 for this one and skip it. Length of stock rail from joint is next. While both stockrails are infact 39' long, the problem is that they are staggered, so if I enter something here it will still make one of them wrong. Ill just skip it and use the prototype drawings later when I add joint bar details. Next is joggled stock rails, and I just skip it. To be honest I dont know if its supposed to be used or not. Here comes my favorite part, timber spacings, this is actually one of the reasons I choose to redo this switch, I want the ...
... topic: 1892 LNER 1930s crossover- rail lengths and timbering posted: 30 Mar 2012 10:02 from: ESJAYTEE This is perhaps a little esoteric, but perhaps one of you may have some info. In templot we can set rail lengths to produce standard panels of plain track. We can specify switch lengths and crossings corresponding to REA and some pre-REA specs, but can we specify the rail length used to make up a turnout? The straight stockrails of the C9's I'm making a crossover from appear to arrive with a joint approximately along with the joint for the switches and another a scale 60' further along the exit road. What would the lengths of blank rail supplied to a P-way yard/manufacturer be? I know 30'/45'/60' is a common measurement for plain track panels, but in what lengths was fresh plain rail supplied? (no bonus points for saying P4exactoL Stores say 0.5m through the post or 1.0m at shows!) I'm trying to replicate an LNER 1930's spec crossover using the ...
... Walling wrote: Where do you start when it comes to creating insulation gaps for something so complex? Hello Trevor, Well, the first thing is that even the most complex formation breaks down into standard bits- ie common crossings and obtuse crossings and from there you can work from two basic rules:- 1. all common crossing must have a polarity change-over switch worked by whichever pair of switch blades directs the traffic over them 2. all obtuse crossings must not be switched and must be permanently connected to an appropriate stockrail The second thing is to think very carefully about exactly where the section breaks need to be- a minimum number of sections which still allow all the parallel traffic movements to be made. (I am using four controllers- DC- as there is a maximum of four movements to take place at once. The really important thing of course is to consider all of that in detail before you even cut the first bit of rail- doing that enables you to avoid unnecessary gaps enabling you to construct the bits in the minimum ...
... interlace a diverging BG only siding before the main vees of the 3 way (struggling to explain that clearly but hopefully the picture helps). Is that likely? Is it possible? In such an important location I would have thought the diverging rail would have been further down the line to avoid derailments but there isn't space to accommodate that. 3. The 3 way at the end of the goods roads seems very 'straight' to me. Is it possible that tracklayers would have accepted very straight connections here rather than normal curved stockrails? I am pretty sure that this could be replicated by using a 3 foot ruling radius on both sides. At this stage I only need/want to worry about the BG lines. The NG ones all pretty make look after themselves. I have looked through my BGS fact sheets on trackwork etc. but it largely focuses on baulk road. Pictures rarely show mixed gauge 3 ways and I certainly can't find anything that suggesting an interlaced diverging road. Dropping below 3' radius also creates a few problems in construction as ...
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