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... topic: 2839 sleeper interlacing- Midland Railway stretcher bars posted: 4 Feb 2016 09:01 from: Tim Lee Hi, I am slowly trying to get to grips with the basics. One thing I am struggling a bit with is how to interlace the sleepers after inserting a turn out (see file attachment). Is there a tutorial for this? Regards Tim Attachment: attach_2228_2839_trackpad_screensh ot_2016_02_04_0852_27.png 446 posted: 4 Feb 2016 12:50 from: Martin Wynne Tim Lee wrote: One thing I am struggling a bit with is how to interlace the sleepers after inserting a turnout. Hi Tim, There are several ways of proceeding. Generally you need to shove some of the timbers, and/or roll in a shorter length of rail. For best results that usually means rolling in a full rail and then rolling a bit of it back out. I notice that you are using 45ft rails with 12" joint sleepers. So I'm guessing you are modelling pre-grouping practice? In which case you may prefer to swap the timbering style to ...
... topic: 1172 Connecting Stretcher Bars for Double Slips posted: 19 Jul 2010 20:32 from: Ian Spalding I'm trying to find out how stretcher bars on double slips were connected to either a point lever or to point rodding. I have drawings of how the stretcher bars are connected to the switch rails. But were the stretchers at one end of the slip connected together and then to the point lever/ rodding or were they driven separately or what? Principally interested in pre-grouping LSWR and LNWR but any prototype information would be appreciated. Regards, Ian Spalding posted: 21 Jul 2010 16:37 from: Ian Spalding Ian Spalding wrote: I'm trying to find out how stretcher bars on double slips were connected to either a point lever or to point rodding. I have drawings of how the stretcher bars are connected to the switch rails. But were the stretchers at one end of the slip connected together and then to the point lever/ rodding or were they driven separately or what? Principally interested in pre-grouping LSWR and LNWR ...
... point blades in the same plane. Whilst it worked its a bit big and ugly, and I am hoping that there is a better to do it? Cheers Simon Handby posted: 25 May 2007 17:06 from: Martin Wynne Hi Simon,> I then tried using copper clad sleepers,> (with some of the copper removed)> a bit longer than the strechers bars, and sliding> under the stock rail to keep the point blades> in the same plane. This is an essential feature of prototype stretcher bars, and not always replicated in some designs of model "turnout operating unit" which you might have seen published. Quoting from the "bible" (BRT3): "The first stretcher bar in all cases projects beyond the stretcher bar brackets and passes under each stock rail, 1/8" below the underside of the rail foot, thus preventing the switch blades from lifting." On some pre-grouping designs, the stretcher bar is round in section and passes through a hole in the web of the ...
... topic: 3805 Operating model turnouts with stretcher bars posted: 31 Oct 2020 18:03 from: Julian Roberts Hello Templotters I wonder what the current general state of play is regarding operating model turnouts through something resembling the stretcher bars. Searching for some pictures of the real thing, I had a look at topic 2040 which shows some prototype new bullhead turnouts. I know there are various other sorts of stretcher bars too. These look quite flexible as they attach to the blades through several nuts and bolts. I thought stretcher bars just pulled the blades the correct distance apart, but it looks as though in one direction these bars push to close the blade. On the model, Masokits seem to offer a very reasonable representation, and are surprisingly strong. My concern is whether they are too strong!- and not very flexible. My previous experience so far has been to use a moving plastic false sleeper with Peco pins inserted from below, one for each blade, each one cut short, curved round and soldered to the blade. Thus the ...
... about 1" wider at 1:32 deflection angle (strictly speaking the section between the heel and the rail joint is curved at the turnout radius). See: 2_051019_260000000.png The 4.5" offset, minus 2.75" rail width, would leave the standard 1.75" flangeway clearance between the rails. But because the switch rail is opening 30" further back, the actual open clearance is greater. The usual requirement is 2" clear all along behind an open switch blade, to prevent wheel backs hitting it, which could damage stretcher bars and detection gear. But if you are modelling the Caledonian, it is quite unlikely that this switch is the correct prototype for you. Ideally you should be creating a custom switch to match your prototype data. Click the set custom switch... button on the switch settings dialog. Alternatively, detailed drawings of NER pre-grouping loose-heel switches are available in the NERA reprint book, which could be taken as typical. regards, Martin. posted: 5 Nov 2015 17:14 from: Martin ...
... topic: 2586 Ambis stretcher etch Mk 4 posted: 1 Dec 2014 14:54 from: Phil O Hi This is as much to remind me how I did it later as much as to help others. I pondered for some time how to bend up the turnout stretcher etches from Ambis. as the destructions are not 100% clear, at least to me. http://www.ambisengineering.co.uk/ So this is my method.( apologies for the poor quality of the photos, they were taken in the clubroom on my phone) After cutting out fettling the etch was placed in a small vice so that the part of the etch which is attached to the rail is flush with the "ears" protruding. Attachment: attach_2003_2586_Ambis_etch_1.jpg 254 posted: 1 Dec 2014 14:57 from: Phil O Next turn 1 ear through 90Deg griping the etch at the part which will attach to the stretcher bar. Attachment: attach_2004_2586_Ambis_etch_2.jpg 256 posted: 1 Dec 2014 14:58 from: Phil O And repeat for the other ear. Attachment: attach_2005_2586_Ambis_etch_3.jpg 254 ...
... was referring to the bend in the wing rails at the knuckle on the 2C9 chair. I understand that it's common for the rails to be bent to some radius at that position, but on your example it looks like they have a sharp bend. I just thought it was interesting Cheers! Andrew Apologies Andrew I misunderstood what you said, yes sharp bend not radiused Regards Mike posted: 24 Mar 2016 08:55 from: Jim Guthrie John, Many thanks for these- particularly for the shot of tne switch and the stretcher rods/tiebars. I'm at the point of designing these for my 1:32 pointwork and was looking for some detail of Scottish practice. Martin provided details of Midland practice a while ago and your pictures show that Scottish practice was similar.. Jim. posted: 25 Mar 2016 04:27 from: Andrew Barrowman Another interesting detail is that there don't seem to be any "flare chairs" on the wing rails, or on the check rails. It looks like the flare only starts beyond the last chair. ...
... . It makes the switches look very wrong to anyone familiar with the prototype. The prototype switch opening is 4.1/4 ", which scales to 1.42mm -- more than double the flangeway gap*! Only by opening the switch tips by this much can you be sure that there is the required 2" minimum clearance (again more than the flangeway gap) all along behind the open blade. On the prototype it is very important that the backs of wheels do not hit the open blade, because this can damage the stretcher bars, and the detection gear for the signalling. Under no circumstances should an open switch blade be acting as a check rail! Proper check rails experience a significant side force from traffic travelling at speed. An open switch blade has no means to resist such forces and is not designed to do so. In fact without the support of the stock rail, an open switch blade is quite delicate at the tip and easily damaged. If you are having trouble with wheels riding up over switch blades it suggests that you have ...
... topic: 1478 Stretcher Bar position markers missing from Switched Diamonds posted: 14 May 2011 17:27 from: Brian Nicholls Hi Martin, Perhaps not exactly a flaw, more of an omission. Whilst constructing templates for a switched diamond, when almost finished, I realised that the switch blade stretcher bar position markings have not been included in the program template, as it normally is for turnouts. Below, I have attached an image file showing some dummy stretcher bars which I added at the final stage, having to position them with timbers either side of each one and then removing those timbers and all rails except one (for each) which then had to reduced to virtually nothing by using a combination of F4 overall length and CNTRL+ F3 blanking length. Could this feature be added in the next pug please? All the best, Brian Nicholls. 1853_141223_060000000.png Parts of Templot Club may not function unless you enable JavaScript (also called Active Scripting) in your browser. Templot Club> Forums> I found a flaw> Stretcher Bar position markers missing ...
... critical timbers such as, A, B, C, D, X, Y& Z can be adjusted (moved). Can anyone give me some guidance on the maximum movement of these timbers, and does anyone know if there is anything written down about this particular subject? I do know in general, T& S timbers can be shoved backwards, forwards and twisted to some considerable degree, although timbers S1& S2 should not be moved too much, such that they infringe upon the clearance of the switch blades stretcher tie bar. As to the timbers A, B, C, D, X, Y& Z these can be twisted too a small degree, but am not sure how much forward or backward movement can be tolerated, if any. The same applies to timbers X, Y& Z. Hope someone can enlighten me. All the best, Brian Nicholls. posted: 29 Aug 2011 20:50 from: Phil O Hi Brian Each timber needs to support the full base of all the chairs that sit on ...
... regular for the switched variety? Last edited on 23 Jan 2013 10:22 by CoBo posted: 23 Jan 2013 10:20 from: Martin Wynne CoBo wrote: I fail to see how this can work if both sets of point blades are fixed to a common shared central timber as shown on the diagram Hi Mike, Prototype point blades are not fixed to timbers. That happens only in some types of model track -- using a sliding timber as a simple means of moving the points instead of one or more separate stretcher bars. There is a good diagram of prototype arrangements and stretcher bars in the Grayrigg accident report (on pages 10 and 11): download: http://www.raib.gov.uk/cms_resources/081023_R202008_Grayrigg_v5.pdf from: http://www.raib.gov.uk/publications/investigation_reports/reports_2008/report202008.cfm regards, Martin. posted: 23 Jan 2013 10:28 from: Martin Wynne CoBo wrote: EDIT: I've managed to make a regular diamond using the 'peg/align' tool (quite simple when you know how) but I fancy a ...
... Mark What I think you need to do is basically generator -> generator settings and untick centre-lines repeat several times to untick pretty well everything else except rails then generator -> rebuild all background which should give you the plan you want. Select pad -> hide control template (unless you actually want it showing) Then select print -> printed element options and de-select all except rails If you then print in the normal fashion, you should get what you want. I can't seem to get rid of stretcher bars, but then I can't think why you'd not want them marked. Hope this helps Regards Chris posted: 4 Apr 2011 03:04 from: Martin Wynne Mark Leigh wrote: Try as I might I don't seem to be able to remove the transition curve markings and tie bars on P&C when I print. Basically I just want the rails...now't else! Hi Mark, Templot doesn't draw tie-bars (stretcher bars). What you see is called the switch-drive mark -- it ...
... topic: 1414 Stretchers in 7mm- what are the options? posted: 9 Mar 2011 13:21 from: RedgateModels Hi, I have an O gauge (32mm) Waverley point kit built up that I have just made operate using a TT300, so far so good. The issue is that in the "normal" or straight route the thin pcb type material used to anchor the switch blades deflects allowing the switch rail to twist slightly and results in a tip not as close to the rail as it could be! So, I'd like to add a stretcher (if that's the word) to beef things up. I've been looking on the C&L site but they don't have pictures so it's difficult to see what's on offer. I really need to be able to fit it in situ if I can as the point is now glued down What's on offer, anyone got good links to images of the items in situ? posted: 9 Mar 2011 13:45 from: wcampbell23 There are good pictures of the Ambis type about ...
... admit that I am failing to see the difference between GRE and GRE copperclad suitably gapped (yes it is possible though difficult to do it without affecting the GRE) other than the advantage of being able to solder rather than rely on a glued joint. Flexibility of Copperclad depends largely on the type of Copperclad involved. 1mm or 1.6mm is far too thick of course to impart any flexibility. Alan Austin suggests 0.5mm for 7mm scale and 0.25mm for 4mm scale. Andy's method is different as it is not intended to look like a stretcher bar as it is to be hidden as much as possible with a suitably cosmetic stretcher bar to be added. Howard is right about the copperclad gaps of course. Yes I have read the article, still don't like the idea of relying on glued joints and of course Alan Austin has since changed the design of his fixings. Last edited on 9 Dec 2018 13:11 by Stephen Freeman posted: 9 Dec 2018 13:45 from: Martin Wynne Copied from a post of mine on RMweb:____ ...
... the measurements are in inches? Thanks very much, posted: 1 Oct 2012 13:19 from: Brian Nicholls Hi James, Sorry about garbled message above, it should have read as follows: Hope this also helps. See attached PDF file of P4 Standards All the best, Brian Nicholls. posted: 1 Oct 2012 13:37 from: James Thanks for that as well Brian but I was really after a cross-section of Bullhead rail which the P4 guide doesn't have. I am trying to design some CAD stretcher bars and FPL and needed to know the size in mm of different parts of the rail e.g. webbing between foot and top. I think I have now worked it out from David's prototype plan. Thanks again for responses. posted: 1 Oct 2012 13:53 from: David R James wrote: I think I have now worked it out from David's prototype plan. Except that most model rail is NOT an exact scale reproduction of the prototype; many model rail sections have over-thick webs which affects the 20 ...
... seem to be having a problem putting a link in- works OK until I've sent the message but it doesn't seem to appear in the reply. I'll try it without the www bit but you won't be able to click on it of course. Hi Stephen, Here's your picture -- excellent work! pp504592f7.jpg http://www.borg-rail.com/ _wp_generated/pp504592f7.jpg regards, Martin. posted: 13 Jun 2008 17:17 from: davelong Hi Stephen Looking at the other images on your site, are those Ambis stretcher bars you use or are they of your own design? Dave posted: 13 Jun 2008 19:46 from: Stephen Freeman The others are all 0 Gauge and the stretcher bars are my own. In 4mm I usually use Masokits unless instructed otherwise as it's relatively easy to add a small piece of brass tube to them for under-board operation. style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffee" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffee"Stephen davelong wrote: Hi Stephen Looking at the other images on ...
... this drawing in response to a request on RMweb: http://rmweb.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?p =730101#p730101 2_290310_180000000.jpg Great Eastern Railway -- 1:7 Double Slip (You can see the original scan in full detail by viewing this image in the Image Gallery and clicking the "original size" link.) regards, Martin. posted: 24 Feb 2020 08:45 from: Keith Newton Hello I am modelling a Midland Railway c1900 Double slip and from signal box diagrams I have seen, the stretcher bars are indeed connected together at each end so there are 2 levers in the SB to control the double slip. I have built the DS in 7mm scale and have 2 rods (at each end) connected to the 2 stretcher bars as in the diagram posted. I would like to understand how these two rods are connected back to the SB. I assume that there would be 2 adjusting cranks as in my photo attached and then a connection of the two rods leaving the adjusting cranks?- however I cannot find ...
... 28 Jul 2009 15:04 from: Martin Wynne Richard Lambert wrote: All this for a yard turnout! My build better do it justice Hi Richard, Alan, This is what you are trying to build. An exact replica would require custom switches in Templot and a lot of partial templates. It's all doable, but not quickly! Note that each switch comprises one long point blade (with undercut planing) and one short one (straight-cut joggled). There are 2 drives (point levers). Each stretcher bar is attached to one long switch blade, and through a hole in the other long blade to the opposite short blade behind it. The drives have to be moved in sequence. Each one must be returned to normal before you can reverse the other. The drawing shows both drives normal, so either can move as drawn. These switches are 12ft and 14ft-6in GER pattern with a common heel position. 2_280950_180000000.jpg The full-size scan can be seen by viewing this in the Image Gallery or by clicking: ...
... a link to that method What Iike about the method I linked, is that all holes are under the sleeper posted: 14 Apr 2015 14:04 from: John Palmer What I like about the drive arrangement shown in this thread is the absence of any bending moment applied to the drive. What I like less is the lost motion liable to be imparted by the use of what appears to be an undersized hinge pin, as shown in the accompanying doctored image:2129_140850_300000000.jpg Unless the movement imparted to the under-board drive stretcher is such as to bed each switch firmly against against its respective stock rail when the switch is thrown, there will be potential for the switch tongues to 'flap about' due to this lost motion. If this is 4mm: 1' trackwork, I would estimate that the lost motion on each pin is of the order of .3mm. Whilst I have reservations about Howard Bolton's method of connecting switches by means of a functional scale stretcher and using this to drive the switch, I do favour his method of eliminating such lost ...
... on hand-built turnouts because I feel that the sudden action could stress any soldered or glued joints. Over time, this could result in a failure. If I was to use ready-made turnout motors I would go with Tortoise although I'm experimenting with memory wire motors. Cheers posted: 3 Mar 2009 12:56 from: Martin Lloyd We've used solenoid motors on two exhibition layouts, (Biggleswade in 00 and Stainmore Summit in EM) both with hand built points. We very rarely have failures of soldered rail to stretcher bar soldering but I dislike this type of motor. We have used Peco and Seep motors and neither of them is really reliable. They supposedly have ways of holding the switch blades over once they have been thrown but quite often don't succeed. Peco motors either rely on the spring in their proprietary points or you have to purchase an additional locking plate (which contains the same omega spring) if you use the motors on hand built points. They are a bit flimsy. Seep motors have a small spring which supposedly serves ...
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