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posted: 24 Jul 2012 10:20 from: mike47j click the date to link to this post click member name to view archived images |
I'm building a three throw point in 0 guage. Anyone have any tips on how to do this. Especially how to move the inner blades ? Normally, I would use a thin strip if fiberglass pcb and lace pins as hinges soldered to the inner face of the rail, but there is no space to do that on the inner blades of a three throw. Mike Johnson |
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posted: 24 Jul 2012 13:16 from: Martin Wynne
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Hi Mike, Richard Lambert of this parish ("dikitriki" on RMweb) wrote a detailed topic on the construction of a 3-throw in 0 gauge. Unfortunately, it was on Old RMweb which is off-line at present. It's possible he also posted it elsewhere, such as the Guild forum, so it might be worth a PM to him. If you can wait a week or two, RMweb is getting new servers in the next couple of weeks, and if all goes to plan Andy York is hoping to get Old RMweb back online for reference. regards, Martin. |
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posted: 24 Jul 2012 17:37 from: Dave Summers
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Hi Mike I downloaded the complete thread by Dikitriki referred to by Martin and stripped out all of the non-relevant comments, smilies (HATE them!) etc and can send you a copy as a .doc file if you PM your email address to me. I'd forgotten that I had it until I read Martin's post - a useful reminder! Cheers Dave |
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posted: 24 Jul 2012 20:46 from: mike47j click the date to link to this post click member name to view archived images |
Thanks for the file, but it skips the actual construction and the attachment of the tie bars. Can't see how it's done in those photos either. Currently, I'm thinking to file off the foot of the stock rail near the tie bar so I can attach the lace pin to the outside of the shorter blade and inside of the longer blade as normal. Mike Johnson |
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posted: 24 Jul 2012 21:22 from: Dave Summers
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In case others are interested and to assist those that want to follow this discussion, the file is attached. I have converted it to a .pdf as .doc is not listed as a permitted format. Mike - I think the attachments and method of operation should be clear from the 3 photos showing the turnout set for left/middle/right. There are two tie bars and two drive bars. The tie bars are each attached to a pair of rails. The drive bar is attached to a single rail (which is linked by the tiebar to its mate. Since the tiebars are moving in an arc, there is presumably no need to provide for any pivoting movement at the point of attachment to the switch blade. The single point fixing of the drive bar appears to allow for some pivoting about the single attaching pin. It appears that there is an L-shaped bracket attached to the underside of the switch blade and to the vertical face of the tiebar. Of course, if Richard Lambert sees this thread, he will be able to give the definitive answer! Cheers Dave |
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Attachment: attach_1475_2028_3_throw_point_construction.pdf 407 | |||
posted: 13 Aug 2012 20:19 from: Martin Wynne
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Martin Wynne wrote: Richard Lambert of this parish ("dikitriki" on RMweb) wrote a detailed topic on the construction of a 3-throw in 0 gauge.Now back online: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=88&t=45544 Martin. |
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posted: 14 Aug 2012 07:58 from: Richard Lambert click the date to link to this post click member name to view archived images |
Hi I'm back after a break and saw this thread. I've located my original pics, and now have some 100% grabs of the business end of my 3-throw point which show in better detail how I linked the blades. Happy to write it up if there is any demand - RMWeb? I'm pleased to say that the turnout is 100% reliable and looks the part in the yard. Big sigh of relief! Richard |
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posted: 14 Aug 2012 10:01 from: mike47j click the date to link to this post click member name to view archived images |
I actually did this by soldering a small piece of scrap brass to the bottom of the trapped rail and fixed that to the tie bar by a lace pin. The other side I just used a bent lace pin. All the sleepers will be covered in ballast so I just used long ones to make it stronger. I used 1mm pcb to make the long slide chairs, perhaps I should have cut and joined the normal slide chairs. Mike 1822_140447_380000000.jpg 1822_140445_300000000.jpg |
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