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posted: 10 Oct 2012 12:46 from: Richard_Jones
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Hi, Does anyone have any experience or views on using plywood for baseboard construction. I recently asked a joiner (who also makes baseboards) what plywood they use and was advised 9mm WBC from the builders merchants. I had a look at what my local builders merchants have to offer and I'm still fairly bewildered as in 9mm they offer: BC/CC FE plywood WBP @ £25.08 H/W faced popular core WBP @ £14.95 BB Finnish birch combi @ £41.06 Indonesian marine @ £29.04 elsewhere I also found Robbins elite BS1088 @ £66.29 Quite a price range! Although I expect its a case of "you get what you pay for" can anyone offer any advice as it would be pointless "spoiling the ship for a 'halfpence of tar". Have a look at "Singleton" on this forum or: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/gallery/album/1858-singleton-under-construction/ If you want to see what I'm trying to achieve. many thanks Richard |
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posted: 10 Oct 2012 13:02 from: PeterD
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Thanks for posting this Richard. I too am looking at ply to construct my new layout. BTW, I like your approach of constructing your plans in card first. Can you tell me how I can scale my Templot plans to do something similar? many thanks Peter |
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posted: 10 Oct 2012 13:11 from: Ian Allen
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Richard, Hardwood faced BB quality WBP plywood should be more than sufficient for your needs. CC quality allows for cracks/joints/knot holes and insect bore holes, whereas BB will be slightly higher quality with holes filled and sanded at source. We built BB grade baseboards for the O gauge railway and these have resided in an uninsulated, garage with temperature and humidity variations for over 12 years with no signs of deformation etc. They haven't been varnished or painted either. Ian |
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posted: 10 Oct 2012 15:26 from: Richard_Jones
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Hi Peter, I'm not at home at the moment, so can't open up TEMPLOT to check this, but... You'll find under the PRINT options something like enlarge/reduce where you can print out the whole BOX file (and SHAPE files) at various sizes, down to putting the whole layout on a single A4 sheet! There is another thread on the forum where I enquired about printing multiple shapes - ie one for the OS map, one for the base board outline and one for the room outline, but so far I have failed in this only getting the 'top' shape to print under the templates... With Singleton I worked from the "footprint" to put the track on, and then worked out to give a "sensible" overall baseboard size allowing for buildings and scenery requirements. By the way, the card was mount board which can be purchased fairly cheaply from artists material suppliers (mine came from Rennies in Bold Street, Liverpool), though my eldest son would probaly obtain the same result with empty cereal packets! best wishes Richard |
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posted: 10 Oct 2012 15:39 from: Martin Wynne
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Richard_Jones wrote:There is another thread on the forum where I enquired about printing multiple shapes - ie one for the OS map, one for the base board outline and one for the room outline, but so far I have failed in this only getting the 'top' shape to print under the templates...Hi Richard, You haven't replied to my message, so I assumed you had it working ok: topic 2073 - message 13807 What exactly is now happening? regards, Martin. |
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posted: 10 Oct 2012 21:57 from: Phil O
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Hi Richard Here are a couple of piccies of the underside of a plywood baseboard which is now over 20 years old. It has in its life been constructed in a not very dry cellar, then been erected in the Plymouth club room before enforced storage in a steel container for the best part of 12 months with extremes of temperature, before being set up again in the new club room which is also subject to damp conditions. The ends and central spine are 10mm thick all the rest is 4 or 6mm thick I can't remember which. There is no sign of deterioration in them what so ever despite the treatment they have suffered over the years. 38_101654_510000000.jpg 38_101656_020000000.jpg Cheers Phil Edit. the second photo didn't upload. |
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Last edited on 10 Oct 2012 21:59 by Phil O |
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posted: 10 Oct 2012 22:26 from: Martin Wynne
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PeterD wrote: BTW, I like your approach of constructing your plans in card first. Can you tell me how I can scale my Templot plans to do something similar?Hi Peter, The output size settings are at output > enlarge/reduce size for print and PDF > menu options: 2_210811_590000000.png These settings apply to printed templates and exported PDF files (and also DXF files if the scaled option is ticked on the DXF dialog). Select your required size before printing the templates in the usual way. Quarter-size (25%) is a popular size for making card layout mock-ups. regards, Martin. |
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posted: 10 Oct 2012 22:35 from: PeterD
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Martin Wynne wrote:The output size settings are at output > enlarge/reduce size for print and PDF > menu options:Thank you Martin. I shall give it a go. Thanks Phil for demonstrating the stability of ply in baseboard construction. Peter |
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posted: 10 Oct 2012 23:41 from: Richard_Jones
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Hi Martin, sorry to leave this hanging... I can't appear to alter the "order" of the shapes* - I can get individual ones to print by making the others transparent, but one of the "non-transparent" ones always appears to take precedent over any others I fully realise this is probably a problem with the way I am trying to "drive" TEMPLOT, not a problem with the software...... best wishes Richard * I have seen the feature, I think in Paintshop Pro of "send to front" which alters the priority of different overlaid shapes... |
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posted: 11 Oct 2012 00:06 from: Martin Wynne
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Richard_Jones wrote:I have seen the feature, I think in Paintshop Pro of "send to front" which alters the priority of different overlaid shapes...Hi Richard, Templot is exactly the same: 2_101900_500000000.png 1. click on a background shape in the list. 2. click this button to send it to the back (it goes to the top of the list), or 3. click this button to bring it to the front (it goes to the bottom of the list). These buttons allow you to re-arrange the background shapes in any order. The shapes are printed in the order listed, so shapes towards the bottom of the list are superimposed over those at the top of the list. • If you are not seeing these buttons, please download Templot2: message 10771 regards, Martin. |
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posted: 11 Oct 2012 09:01 from: RedgateModels
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I am blessed with an almost never ending supply of 15mm packing case ply at work - it comes in nice 4ft x 3ft sheets. Although it does make a baseboard that is heavier than using thinner ply it does not need softwood corners as it can take screws directly into it's edge - and it's free! You can see it in use on my RMweb blog http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/534-fourgig-east/ |
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posted: 11 Oct 2012 12:08 from: Richard_Jones
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Martin, Many thanks - I don't know why I didn't find/see this when I was looking last time! probably something to do with some neo-ludditism in my genes (or just getting too old for this game!) will try again sometime this weekend...... Sorry to have mixed up 2 different topic threads....... best wishes Richard |
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posted: 12 Oct 2012 08:37 from: Alan Turner
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Richard_Jones wrote: Hi, I suggest you go for BB Birch Ply. Doesn’t particularly have to be Finnish; Canadian, Baltic just as good. There is no need to waste money buying Marine Ply, which is simply Ply using hardwood veneers - normally Mahogany or Teak. Alan |
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Last edited on 12 Oct 2012 08:37 by Alan Turner |
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posted: 13 Oct 2012 09:30 from: Richard_Jones
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Martin Wynne wrote:• If you are not seeing these buttons, please download Templot2:Hi Martin, I'm now at home and have looked at TEMPLOT on the computer and, guess what, no buttons... I'm obviously on the wrong version of TEMPLOT, so will try your link above - quite busy this weekend so I'm not sure when I will be able to get back with a progress update.. many thanks Richard |
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posted: 14 Oct 2012 20:54 from: Dellboy
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Alan Turner wrote: Richard_Jones wrote:I have always understood that the main advantage of Marine Ply apart from the better quality veneers and lower level of defects is that the glues used are water resistant exterior grade (Water and Boil Proof - WBP) making it the best option if there is any risk of dampness. My preference would always be 9mm thick Marine Ply. But a word of caution - not all Marine Plys are of the same quality irrespective of whether they claim to be to the British Standard for Marine Plywood - BS 1088 (equivalent now EN 636-3/EN 314-3). DellboyHi, Does anyone have any experience or views on using plywood for baseboard construction. I recently asked a joiner (who also makes baseboards) what plywood they use and was advised 9mm WBC from the builders merchants. I had a look at what my local builders merchants have to offer and I'm still fairly bewildered as in 9mm they offer: BC/CC FE plywood WBP @ £25.08 H/W faced popular core WBP @ £14.95 BB Finnish birch combi @ £41.06 Indonesian marine @ £29.04 elsewhere I also found Robbins elite BS1088 @ £66.29 RichardI suggest you go for BB Birch Ply. Doesn’t particularly have to be Finnish; Canadian, Baltic just as good. There is no need to waste money buying Marine Ply, which is simply Ply using hardwood veneers - normally Mahogany or Teak. Alan |
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Last edited on 14 Oct 2012 21:19 by Dellboy |
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posted: 15 Oct 2012 11:19 from: JFS
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Dellboy wrote: Alan Turner wrote:I agree - the difference is the glue, Alan T's comment does not fully make sense given that Birch is a hardwood! Having said that, if you have damp problems sufficient to require marine plywood, the rest of your layout had better be pretty waterproof!Richard_Jones wrote:I have always understood that the main advantage of Marine Ply apart from the better quality veneers and lower level of defects is that the glues used are water resistant exterior grade (Water and Boil Proof - WBP) making it the best option if there is any risk of dampness. My preference would always be 9mm thick Marine Ply. But a word of caution - not all Marine Plys are of the same quality irrespective of whether they claim to be to the British Standard for Marine Plywood - BS 1088 (equivalent now EN 636-3/EN 314-3). DellboyHi, Does anyone have any experience or views on using plywood for baseboard construction. I recently asked a joiner (who also makes baseboards) what plywood they use and was advised 9mm WBC from the builders merchants. I had a look at what my local builders merchants have to offer and I'm still fairly bewildered as in 9mm they offer: BC/CC FE plywood WBP @ £25.08 H/W faced popular core WBP @ £14.95 BB Finnish birch combi @ £41.06 Indonesian marine @ £29.04 elsewhere I also found Robbins elite BS1088 @ £66.29 RichardI suggest you go for BB Birch Ply. Doesn’t particularly have to be Finnish; Canadian, Baltic just as good. There is no need to waste money buying Marine Ply, which is simply Ply using hardwood veneers - normally Mahogany or Teak. Alan By the way, BB grade is NOT that brilliant - but it is often the highest grade on offer from non-specialists. If you can't find anything better (A-A or A-B), go and select the sheets in person to find the few with knot and joint free faces - don't just accept what you are offered - it might be all the stuff I rejected! Avoid Russian stuff... Best wishes, Howard. |
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posted: 14 Jun 2013 12:00 from: Richard_Jones
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Hi All, Still on this topic of baseboards and plywood, but a slightly different tack.... Did anyone watch (the repeat?) on channel 4 last night (13/06/2013) of "Grand Designs" with the spiral staircase that was CNC cut in plywood, delivered flat packed, and went together perfectly Do you think there might be an opening here for model railway baseboards, particularly with what I have in mind for "Singleton" (see share & show thread). If so, any ideas how to go from the trackplans etc in Templot, to something that might make sense to a CNC machine? cheers Richard |
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posted: 14 Jun 2013 17:51 from: JFS
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Well, in theory, Tempot can output in DXF and CNC programmes accept DXF Input! So you can create centreline-only template for all the baseboard edges, delete all the track and away you go. Of course, there is still the small matter of all the framing etc... Cheers Howard. |
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posted: 14 Jun 2013 18:07 from: Martin Wynne
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JFS wrote:Of course, there is still the small matter of all the framing etc...Hi Howard, The DXF output can include the background shapes. So for straight-edge baseboards and framing, you don't necessarily need dummy centre-line templates. regards, Martin. |
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posted: 14 Jun 2013 19:10 from: JFS
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Martin Wynne wrote: The DXF output can include the background shapes. So for straight-edge baseboards and framing, you don't necessarily need dummy centre-line templates.Indeed Martin, but I am not sure that Singleton has much by way of straights anywhere And for straight edges, CNC routing might be a bit over the top! Best wishes, Howard |
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posted: 15 Jun 2013 10:23 from: stadman
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The society to which I belong (Exeter) had some baseboard frames cnc'd They provided for standard 2 X 4 framework with ply tops. Went together slot and tab style pretty much like an etched kit, screw and glue of course as wood doesn't solder to well. Hope next year to have the company at our exhibition. |
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