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posted: 25 Aug 2014 20:03 from: Hayfield
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I thought I would share the build of this turnout especially as I was given so much assistance with the plan. Built to 00sf through the crossings, then flared out to 00 gauge to match flexi track 982_251458_180000000.jpg I stick the plan to a building board, then tape tracing paper over it, followed by a few very thin strips of double-sided tape which is what I use to hold the sleepers to the paper. Don't put any tape where the tie-bars go. My prefered start place is from the Vee furthest on the right the work back with the next two 982_251458_520000000.jpg Most of the rails are now in place, though at this point just tacked to the sleepers in a few places for initial testing during the build |
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Last edited on 25 Aug 2014 20:08 by Hayfield |
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posted: 26 Aug 2014 17:56 from: Paul Boyd
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Hi "Hayfield" That looks good! Can I make one suggestion though? In the bottom photo you have a flangeway gauge to space the check rail from the stock rail. The critical dimension there is actually the distance from the crossing nose to the check rail - see CG (Check Gauge) in the diagram below, or refer to this thread 105_220431_590000000.png This photo shows a couple of gauges in use to ensure the check rail is the correct distance from the crossing nose. 105_261255_370000000.jpg Hope this helps! |
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posted: 26 Aug 2014 18:39 from: Hayfield
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Paul Thank you very much, never thought of it that way and it would explain the odd occasion I get a slight tight spot on 3 ways I sometimes think I tend to focus on parts rather than the whole thing (tunnel vision?) Do I see you still use the odd rivet? |
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posted: 26 Aug 2014 18:54 from: Hayfield
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We have some very talented builders on here (not counting myself as one) and a very simple photo with an eagle eyed member has just given me a free lesson (thank you). I am a bit surprised that so few have shown their work either to pass on their valuable knowledge or to obtain some feed back. |
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posted: 26 Aug 2014 22:03 from: Paul Boyd
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Hi Yes, when I was building with ply timbers and plastic chairs I did use the odd rivet here and there to beef things up a bit in critical locations. I've since switched to using Masokits etched chairs with copperclad timbers which means nothing needs beefing up! You suggested people show their work - my latest railway-related work-in-progress is based on Iain Rice's Shotley South Quay and can be seen in this album on Flickr There's loads of other stuff on there - if you browse the collections it will help to narrow things down! I also still have some stuff left on the old Picasa site which I haven't copied over yet, if you run out of things to look at! Model railway stuff does seem to have taken a back seat at the moment though as I've rediscovered plastic modelling! That hobby has progressed leaps and bounds in the last 20-30 years - it really makes railway modelling look stuck in a time warp Cheers |
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posted: 26 Aug 2014 23:01 from: Trevor Walling
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Hello Paul, What do you use to stain the timbers please? Regards Trevor. Paul Boyd wrote: Hi "Hayfield" |
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posted: 2 Sep 2014 18:12 from: Paul Boyd
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Hi Trevor I'm really sorry for the delay in replying - I accidentally marked the email as read so forgot about it! Anyway, I think I used a concoction suggested by Iain Rice, which is basically Indian ink and IPA (alcohol, not beer!) I don't have the reference to hand, but the ink I used was Winsor & Newton "Nut Brown". I also have a bottle of black Indian ink which I think I used somewhere. Basically, dilute it with IPA then drop the pre-cut timbers/sleepers into it for a while, then let them dry on a piece of kitchen towel. You will probably need to experiment to get the best results. Hope this helps! |
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posted: 2 Sep 2014 18:33 from: Trevor Walling
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Thanks Paul, I had read about the method Iain Rice used in his "An Approach to Finescale Track" book but yours is in colour. Regards. Trevor. |
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