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posted: 9 Feb 2015 22:24 from: TPP
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I have been reading and reading and I hope I am slowly learning. I am sure Imread somewhere ( maybe on here ) that 00-SF might not be my best choice if I want to build a small shunting style layout. So my question is - just what is the tightest pointwork that is sensible in SF ? For arguments sake would a B7 be ok - what about an A6 Please note I am still new to all this so please excuse me if it's a daft question. |
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posted: 9 Feb 2015 23:26 from: Martin Wynne
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Hi Rob, 00-SF is also known as "EM minus 2" and shares the same recommendations and constraints as EM. If you are new to all this you may find it worth joining the EM Gauge Society who have a detailed manual covering all these matters, and more: http://emgs.org Generally EM and 00-SF are fine for anything other than outright toy train sets, i.e. a minimum radius say around 24" / 600mm and turnouts no shorter than say 1:4. A lot depends of course on what rolling-stock you will be using. Not just locomotive wheelbase, but also matters such as buffers and couplings, wheel profiles, and axle sideplay. Generally where the radius goes below say 30" / 750mm it is advisable to add some gauge-widening, which happens automatically if you use the 3-point track gauges. If you won't be going as tight as that on radius you probably don't need any gauge-widening. RTR models are made to run on curves down to around 18" / 450mm radius at 16.5mm, so will easily run round 30" / 750mm at 16.2mm. You can see the smallest radius in a turnout on the info display in Templot. A6 and B7 are well within the allowable range. Here is the info for an A-6 in 00-SF: 2_091811_330000000.png Showing that even with a regular V-crossing the smallest radius is around 36" / 900mm and no gauge-widening would be needed. If you go below 1:6 it is better not to use size "A" switches, use a 9ft switch instead, and change the V-crossings to generic or curviform. This will ease the radius and keep it well within the safe range, and also save some space. regards, Martin. |
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posted: 10 Feb 2015 11:17 from: TPP
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Thanks for the reply Martin I think those limits are fine for what I have in mind but you have opened up some questions I really had not considered at all. Buffers and couplers ... Imhad not really given any thought to buffers at all beyond the fact that the ones that come in plastic wagon kits dont seem as nice as they could be - i wasnt intending to replace them with sprung ones but just nicer non working white metal ones. For couplers I think I have decided on Spratt and Winkle - the 3mm versions with the mounting plates Wheel profiles - umm , here I am clueless Locos will initially be a few from bachmann or hornby ( newer models ) The wagons will have what comes in the Parkside Dundas kits ? Axle sideplay ... Well I can obviously guess what that is - had no idea it was something you could set or adjust |
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