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TEMPLOT 3D PLUG TRACK - To get up to speed with this experimental project click here.   To watch an introductory video click here.   See the User Guide at Bexhill West.

  • The Plug Track functions are experimental and still being developed. Some of the earlier pages of this topic are now out-of-date.

    For an updated overview of this project see this topic.   For some practical modelling aspects of using Plug Track see Building 3D Track.

    The assumption is that you have your own machines on which to experiment, or helpful friends with machines. Please do not send Templot files to commercial laser cutting or 3D printing firms while this project is still experimental, because the results are unpredictable and possibly wasteful.

    Some pages of this and other topics include contributions from members who are creating and posting their own CAD designs for 3D printing and laser-cutting. Do not confuse them with Templot's own exported CAD files. All files derived from Templot are © Martin Wynne.
  • The Plug Track functions are experimental and still being developed.

    For an updated overview of this project see this topic.   For some practical modelling aspects of using Plug Track see Building 3D Track.

    The assumption is that you have your own machines on which to experiment, or helpful friends with machines. Please do not send Templot files to commercial laser cutting or 3D printing firms while this project is still experimental, because the results are unpredictable and possibly wasteful.

    Some pages of this and other topics include contributions from members who are creating and posting their own CAD designs for 3D printing and laser-cutting. Do not confuse them with Templot's own exported CAD files. All files derived from Templot are © Martin Wynne.

3D Printer - Kingroon KP3S PRO S1

Quick reply >
Step 1, the T-nuts
20240208_095500.jpg
As assembled in plastic bag.
It looks as though they are the right way round.
 
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message ref: 10238
7 before dropping in z-screw, had to remove a very sticky transit label covering z-carriage hole.
Dropped z-screw in from top of z-axis.
Assisted z-screw thru z-carriage nut by rotating until it was fully home in the z-drive coupler.
Tightened the 2 grub screws.

I noticed the brass coloured plate fastened by 2 black screws on the top of the z-carriage was loose. Well the screws are loose.

Should I tighten those?
Steve
 
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Last edited:
8 Removed string.
9 Checked belt tension. The ends of the X-belt that drives the extruder head were not connected to the extruder head. Each end has a clamp, and each slots into a bracket on the bottom of the extruder head. I inserted these then used the knourled nut on the end of the carriage to tighten until twanged.
Also tightened the Y-belt til twanged.
The question is how twangy? or do i mean pitch?

Steve
 
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message ref: 10244
Extra Step, pre-empting advice in step 12.
The z-limit screw is mounted in a blind hole and is too long, so I removed the z-limit screw, added a nut, then shortened it by 3.5mm. cleaned up the end. Unscrewed the nut to ensure the thread was good, then added two nuts before replacing the z-limit screw without its spring. If using the spring instead of two lock-nuts the z-limit screw is a bit wobbly.
Steve
 
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message ref: 10245
7 before dropping in z-screw, had to remove a very sticky transit label covering z-carriage hole.
Dropped z-screw in from top of z-axis.
Assisted z-screw thru z-carriage nut by rotating until it was fully home in the z-drive coupler.
Tightened the 2 grub screws.

I noticed the brass coloured plate fastened by 2 black screws on the top of the z-carriage was loose. Well the screws are loose.

Should I tighten those?
Steve
@Steve_Cornford

Hi Steve,

No. They are loose so that the carriage can align with the screw without requiring very close manufacturing tolerances. If you tighten them it is likely to cause backlash problems on the Z-axis. The Z carriage should be free to be lifted and dropped a fraction in your fingers without the screw turning. This allows gravity to provide the backlash correction, which works very reliably, provided you don't install the printer in a space capsule. Also, never enable the Z-hopping function in Cura.

I am just setting up my Kingroon Pro to remind myself of the settings -- I haven't used it for a couple of months.

cheers,

Martin.
 
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message ref: 10246
Step 11
Even though I shortened the z-axis limit screw, I am having trouble getting it low enough for the extruder head to touch the paper on the right hand side.
The problem seems to be that the x-axis arm is not at right angles to the z-axis arm. ie the right hand end of the z-axis arm is canting upwards.

Surely the X-arm should be at right angles to the z-arm?

Steve
 
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message ref: 10249
Surely the X-arm should be at right angles to the z-arm?
@Steve_Cornford

Hi Steve,

It should be, yes. But how far out is it? The important thing is that the bed is adjusted to be parallel to the arm. A slight error on the Z-angle relative to the bed won't be significant, at least for the timbering bricks.

You should be able to get the bed parallel to the X-arm by adjusting the yellow screws?

Also, check that the glass bed is clean on the underside, with nothing trapped under it. Check that it is the same thickness on each side. Ideally give it a wash in warm soapy water before first use. Mark it with permanent marker so that you can always use it the same way round. Are you using the coated side or the plain glass side? Have you removed the protective film on the glass bed (both sides?). Are the clips correctly fitted?

p.s. don't forget to check that the voltage selector is showing 230v before switching on. If you are using the USB cable from your PC, I recommend switching the power on before plugging the USB into the PC.

cheers,

Martin.
 
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message ref: 10251
Hi Martin,
It is several degrees out.
In order to get the right hand side of the bed up to the extruder nozzle I will need to cut another couple of mm off the z-axis limit screw as it is bottomed in the hole,
Then I fear that the left hand yellow screws would need to be done right up against the springs so that there would be no give in the bed!
I have emailed Altwaylab using their contact form.

The glass bed only had protective film on one side (the coated side) which I have removed. I am using it upside down.
The clips are correctly fitted.


I note that I am not the only person to have had this problem, see:-

https://www.fabbaloo.com/news/hands-on-with-the-kingroon-kp3s-pro-s1-part-2

pity they didn't document the corrective steps!


Time for a spot of lunch before I go any further.
It is probalbly my fault as I scrambled my eggs this morning!
Steve
 
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message ref: 10252
Hi Martin,
It is several degrees out.
In order to get the right hand side of the bed up to the extruder nozzle I will need to cut another couple of mm off the z-axis limit screw as it is bottomed in the hole,
Then I fear that the left hand yellow screws would need to be done right up against the springs so that there would be no give in the bed!
I have emailed Altwaylab using their contact form.

The glass bed only had protective film on one side (the coated side) which I have removed. I am using it upside down.
The clips are correctly fitted.


I note that I am not the only person to have had this problem, see:-

https://www.fabbaloo.com/news/hands-on-with-the-kingroon-kp3s-pro-s1-part-2

pity they didn't document the corrective steps!


Time for a spot of lunch before I go any further.
It is probalbly my fault as I scrambled my eggs this morning!
Steve
@Steve_Cornford

Hi Steve,

Sorry to hear you have run into a problem.

To adjust the X-arm square, I think you need to slack off and re-tighten these 4 screws:


kingroon_x_arm_fix.jpg



I also found this truly dreadful review of the Kingroon printer, which bears no relation to the machine I received:

https://medium.com/@mrginger/the-ki...e-little-3d-printer-that-couldnt-e57e9cf913b5

but it does have the X-arm issue.

Reading it, I think "Mr.Ginger" must have received a factory reject, or an apprentice test piece, or some such. Maybe a 3rd-party clone.

It does illustrate that web reviews are meaningless -- every good one is cancelled out by a bad one. The only way to find out about anything is to get one and see for yourself.

cheers,

Martin.
 
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message ref: 10253
Hi Martin,
Thanks for that.
After a refreshing lunch of home made Minestrone soup and a slice of home made beetroot quiche, i took the decision to cut another couple of mm off the z-axis limit screw.
This meant that I could get it to screw down a bit further, and it allowed me to level the bed using your manual method.
It is still not perfect as ne has to have the left hand yellow screws down up fairly tight and the right hand ones fairly loose, but not too loose. There stil is a couple of mm of screw projecting from the bottom of the yellow nuts.

I think you are right about those 4 screws on the x-arm, but I will leave them be until i get a response from Altway.

Now I need to search for the video/instructions for measuring the perimeter fence etc.

Everything takes much longer than you think, but its best not to rush at our age. :)

Thanks for your help and encouragement.

Now I need to put the toys away and make the supper before the boss gets home.
Steve
 
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message ref: 10254
@Steve_Cornford

Hi Steve,

How are you getting on with the Kingroon? After the home made soup and the home made quiche, do you now have some home made track? :)

Any reply from Altway? I can confirm that those 4 screws allow the X-arm to be adjusted. In fact on mine I have removed the countersunk screws and replaced them with M4 x 6mm pan-head screws and spring washers. These can be tightened properly with a screwdriver instead of the tiddly chinese allen keys.

I originally assembled and set up my Pro S1 as soon as it arrived in early December (with one arm in a sling :)). I did a few tests then using my usual settings and the results were excellent, as I expected. I hadn't used it since.

Yesterday I set it going again, and the results were awful. Bad stringing through the sockets, with a lot of cobwebs everywhere. Using the same printer, same profile settings, same reel of filament (JAYO rustic grey), same test STL file.

The only explanation I can think of is increased moisture content in the filament after the recent wet weather. Any steam space in the nozzle is likely to make the retraction less effective. I had kept the reel of filament in a plastic bag, but not sealed up with a sachet of silica gel. There may be a lesson there for the future.

The basic problem is that the slicer combing algorithm, which should move the head around the sockets in a travel move, is unable to cope with the thin socket walls in plug track. So it jumps straight across the sockets instead, leaving a string of oozing filament in its wake. Sharply retracting the filament before moving is intended to prevent that.

After much messing about without success, and then a boiled egg for lunch, I decided to do a U-turn on the retraction. Instead of aggressively fast I tried it set very slow. The idea being that this causes the extruder head to stop moving for a second or two while the filament retracts, allowing time for the nozzle to stop oozing before it moves off again across open space. I tried 8mm retraction at 5mm/sec.

I expected that to leave blobs in places where it stopped, but in fact the results are excellent. Some of the cleanest FDM printing I have done, with no stringing at all. The downside is that it makes FDM printing even slower, about 15 minutes per sleeper in 4mm/ft scale instead of the previous 10 minutes (with ironing enabled). I don't mind that, it leaves more time to get other stuff done, but I know there will be grumbles from some folks. Today it meant that I had plenty of time to wash the car while the test piece was running.

I will post the Cura profile shortly, also an updated priming script.

cheers,

Martin.
 
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message ref: 10283
Hi Martin,

Altway replied with:-
"
Please try to loose these two screws from the back (see attached picture).
Make the gantry straight with the ruler align to the table and screw it again.
I hope it helps."

WhatsApp Image 2024-02-09 at 09.04.47.jpeg



I also received the missing "filament guide tube" in the post this morning, so excellent service from Altway.

Have not had a chance to try either the 4 screws you suggested or the 2 screws they suggested yet.

Hope you didnt overdo it with the car washing!

Steve
 
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message ref: 10284
The downside is that it makes FDM printing even slower, about 15 minutes per sleeper in 4mm/ft scale instead of the previous 10 minutes (with ironing enabled). I don't mind that, it leaves more time to get other stuff done, but I know there will be grumbles from some folks.
@Steve_Cornford

I tried changing to 0.16mm layers instead of 0.12mm. This has got the time back to about 10 minutes per timber. There is some reduction in quality as expected, but there is really very little in it. I suspect that after painting and ballasting it would be hard to tell the difference.

I will post Cura profiles for both.

cheers,

Martin.
 
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message ref: 10303
'
Setting up a custom printer in Cura -- see:

https://85a.uk/templot/club/index.php?threads/experimental-plug-track-continued.673/post-7361

(All this was covered in a Zoom meeting with John.)

Setting up a custom printer for the Kingroon Pro S1. I call it Templot Kingroon ProS1:

custom_printer_s1_200mm.png


custom_printer_s1_200mm_extruder.png


Priming script (Start G-code):


;Kingroon S1 prime perimeter
M413 S0 ;Disable power-loss recovery
G28 ;home
G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder
G1 Z5 F500 ;Move Z Axis up
G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder
G1 X15 Y15 Z0.1 F500.0 ; to start position and touch - prevent backlash
G1 X5 Y8 Z0.3 F500.0 ; up to priming run
G1 Y198 F1500.0 E10 ;Draw perimeter
G1 X195 F1500.0 E20
G1 Y8 F1500.0 E30
G1 X5.4 F1500.0 E40
G1 Y197.6 F1500.0 E50
G1 X194.6 F1500.0 E60
G1 Y8.4 F1500.0 E70
G1 X5.8 F1500.0 E80
G1 Y30 Z0.1 F500.0 ;touch again for backlash
G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder

The line M413 S0 disables the power-loss recovery function. This function causes rapid wear to the Micro SD card if used, and doesn't apply anyway if using USB to control the printer. If you want to use this function, delete this line or prefix it with a semi-colon: ;M413 S0

The priming script runs twice round the bed perimeter before printing each job (leaving a space to clear glass bed clips). Then abort the print, carefully remove it and measure the thickness across the corners (not at the actual corners):

index.php


It should be about 0.2mm at all 4 locations. Adjust the yellow wheels accordingly and try again. It's very difficult to get it spot-on all equal. Say in the range 0.18mm to 0.22mm.

The yellow screws are M4 with a pitch of 0.7mm and 16 notches on the wheel. So turning one notch adjusts by 0.7/16 = 0.04mm approx. Say 2.1/2 notches for 0.1mm. That's the theory. In practice it is more tricky because each wheel affects the others, and the machine support plate is not very rigid.

Make a test print of a few timbers. There should be a very slight elephant's foot effect detectable around the underside. For Templot 243a the overall thickness should be around 3.2mm using a bed temperature below 50degC, or around 3.1mm at 60degC (more shrinkage).

Attached below is the current Cura profile I'm using with PLA-Plus in 4mm/ft scale. Bed temperature reduces from 60degC to 45degC after first layer. 0.16mm layers.

This profile is still experimental to minimise stringing through sockets. It's likely to change.

index.php



Then over on the right select the imported custom profile for use:

index.php



Smear PVP glue-stick across the plain glass bed using a slightly damp sponge (while the bed is cold). It will be good for several prints, doesn't need cleaning off every time. After the first print any excess dried glue can be removed by going over the bed with the window scraper:

window_scraper1.jpg



Posting quickly because I have a hospital appointment today.

Martin.
 

Attachments

  • KNS1_4mmft_190deg_60speed_ 8ret_45bed_13feb24.curaprofile
    2.5 KB · Views: 7
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message ref: 10318
Hi Martin,
Thank you very much for posting that.
I have a cataract post-OP checkup today.
I have had both eyes done now with much improvement of vision.
Thank you NHS / Spa Medica.

Hope all goes well with your appointment.
Sreve
 
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message ref: 10319
Hi Martin,
Just to ensure I have clips in right position

20240214_113403.jpg


glass plate temporarily with protective film whilst I handle. Upside down with "kingroo" legend on the front edge.


Also do I remove pale blue protective film on the metal heated bed?

20240214_113448.jpg



Also do I need to copy your end G-code?

Steve
 
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i Martin,
The reason I ask about clips, is that in the position I have them usable bed space is more like x = 210mm, Y= 190mm.

I cant work out how to position clips to get 200mm by 200mm

Used all our eggs yesterday for pancakes :(
Steve
 
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i Martin,
The reason I ask about clips, is that in the position I have them usable bed space is more like x = 210mm, Y= 190mm.

I cant work out how to position clips to get 200mm by 200mm

Used all our eggs yesterday for pancakes :(
Steve
@Steve_Cornford

Hi Steve,

For the clips I usually use 2 at the front, as you have them, and just one in the middle at the back, clear of the cable fitting.

The exact usable area is difficult to determine, because the X-Y home position may not be exactly on the corner of the build plate. The clips do take up some of the space. I suggest starting with something which fits comfortably within the build area, and try going larger later.

A problem which you may run into with the Pro, but not the original smaller Kingroon, is that the clench on the end of the X-axis belt hangs down and collides with the clips at the back. Likewise the fan cowling might do the same at the front.

All of which means the clips are a damn nuisance. There is no actual force on the bed when in use, so using a replacement plain glass bed I find I can get away without any clips by using a thin film of soapy water for a slippy suction grip all over. This is easier to position and remove afterwards if it is a little larger than the base plate (but not overhanging on the left). Apply some firm pressure while sliding the glass to and fro, so that the water squeezes out around the edges and can be wiped away. The thinner the water film, the firmer the grip. Once in place it is good for several jobs, and the grip seems to increase after the first heating. I use the 235mm glass bed from the Neptune 2S.

The blue-green film on the base plate seems to be part of the original plate material used in manufacture, and is perfectly smooth (or at least mine was). It can be left in place or removed as you wish. I removed mine in the interest of better heat transfer to the glass, although it is only 2 thou thick so probably it makes no difference.

There is no need to edit the end G-code unless you want to. It simply moves the bed fully forward to get at the finished part, and then switches everything off.

No pancakes yesterday, but 2 scrambled eggs for breakfast today. :)

cheers,

Martin.
 
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message ref: 10324
I removed the pale blue protective film from the heated bed plate.
I removed the protective film from the top surface of the glass plate. But I am going to use the glass plate upside down.
I washed the glass plate to remove any trace of fingerprintes etc.


As I wanted to drive the Kingroon via USB cable;
I created a folder on my laptop called Kingroon and copied in the contents of the folder /software drivers/FTDI USB drivers from the Kingroon USB/MicroSD card.
Then I also copied in the program that Martin has provided (https://85a.uk/odds/DRVSETUP64.exe)
I then ran that program from within the created folder.
Which gave:-
1707929724264.png

Selected the drop down arrow to choose ftdiport.inf
1707929807677.png

Then clicked install.

Now when I run Cura with the printer connected via USB cable and switched on, having sliced you now get a choice of save to disk or print to USB.



One step forward :)
Steve
 
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Two steps backwards
The first time i tried to print, the printer started the perimeter ok, but stopped after obeying the command :-

G1 Y198 F1500.0 E10 ;Draw perimeter
and proceeded to build a small pile of molten filament, so I aborted the print.

Tried again, same result.
Tried a test print from the MicroSD card (ie no USB involved) and that worked ok.

Three steps forwards
I will cut straight to the problem & the resolution.
I had used cut&paste to copy Martins G-code into the Cura parameter box, rather than typing in a copy!
(this results in some form of EOL/LF characters that are invisible but you can tell they are there by moving the cursor backwards and forwards. I remember something similar years ago when trying to get barcode printers to work from windows)
I deleted the two (invisible) characters at the end of each G-code line and then replaced them with a carriage return (CR).

Tried the test print and this time the printer behaved properly, printed the perimeter ok (two circuits), then proceeded to start primting the small section of timber base I am using as a test, at which point I aborted the print so that I can measure the perimeter as suggested by Martin.


 
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Now when I run Cura with the printer connected via USB cable and switched on, having sliced you now get a choice of save to disk or print to USB.
@Steve_Cornford

Hi Steve,

Rather confusingly you need to click Print via USB twice. Once to select it from the dropdown, and then again to actually do it.

I found it safer to connect the USB cable to the computer only after switching the printer on. A couple of times switching on the printer with the USB already connected caused a glitch on my computer, presumably caused by an unregulated switch-on surge on the USB 5v line.

Likewise, if you switch the printer off with the USB connected, you will see the printer control screen is still on, powered through the USB from the computer. It's all rather poor design of the Chinese electronics, but works fine if you don't switch it on or off while the USB cable is connected.

While connected, if you switch to the Monitor tab in Cura, you can control the printer pre-heating and homing from Cura. I find that I never need to look at the printer control screen in normal use. Cura shows the re-calculated estimated print time as it goes along, based on the actual speed the printer is running at.

You can also abort a print from Cura, useful if you want to measure the priming run without going any further.

p.s. as predicted, I have made some minor changes to the script and profile today. i will post them when I'm sure they are worth doing.

cheers,

Martin.
 
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I have been typing my actions and experiences in retrospect, in case it helps someone else.

Conclusion
Do not cut & paste the G-code, just retype it!

I have now had to pack up the printer as the den is due to be a bedroom for the next couple of nights, then I am abroad for a week in Marakesh, after that I hope to resume printing timber bases and jigs.
Steve
 
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Conclusion

Do not cut & paste the G-code, just retype it!
@Steve_Cornford

Sorry Steve, that's my fault for forgetting to put the script in code tags. No need to re-type it!

Here it is again, with a slight mod to ensure we get a full extrusion along the first edge of the perimeter:

Code:
;Kingroon S1 prime perimeter
M413 S0 ;Disable power-loss recovery
G28 ;home
G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder
G1 Z5 F500 ;Move Z Axis up
G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder
G1 X15 Y15 Z0.1 F500.0 ; to start position and touch - prevent backlash
G1 X5 Y8 Z0.3 F500.0 E8; up to priming run and initial prime
G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder
G1 Y198    F1500.0 E10 ;Draw perimeter
G1 X195    F1500.0 E20
G1 Y8      F1500.0 E30
G1 X5.4    F1500.0 E40
G1 Y197.6  F1500.0 E50
G1 X194.6  F1500.0 E60
G1 Y8.4    F1500.0 E70
G1 X5.8    F1500.0 E80
G1 Y30 Z0.1  F500.0 ;touch again for backlash
G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder

The above should cut and paste without problems -- it does here. :)

cheers,

Martin.
 
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message ref: 10329
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