- West of the Severn UK
@timbersgaloreI cut the outside sprues off prior to glueing down since it was not need for strength and would be a pig to remove.
Hi (no name),
I see that you have full-depth webs below the rails. How are you planning to remove them after tracklaying? Any sort of cutter or blade will force the timbers apart. A Dremel disc might be an option, but tedious to do. Or if you leave them in place how will you disguise them in the ballast - the top of the ballast is normally level with, or a fraction below, the timber top. Flat-bottom rail is wider than bullhead and closer to the timber, so tends to hide such webs. But for bullhead track the daylight between the rail and the ballast is a characteristic feature:
(This question also applies to all the commercially available laser-cut timber bases -- but when I ask it the answer is always silence. )
For the Plug Track I intentionally placed the sprues outboard of the sleepers to make prototypical ballasting possible below the rails. I think you would do better to remove the webs before tracklaying (or not have them in the first place) and leave the sprues in place. If you don't apply any glue to the sprues they are easy to remove after tracklaying by holding a pair of flush cutters vertically (Xuron cutters, supplied with the resin printer).
For the FDM printed timber bases the sprues are omitted, but the webs and timber flanges which replace them are only 1.5" thick (0.5mm in 4mm scale) and easily hidden under the ballast.
p.s. notice the GWR chairs in the pictures. Which for pointwork are fixed with plain square-head coach screws (unlike REA chairs with tapered ferrules and bosses for the screws). But for plain track the GWR chairs use through-bolts from below with nuts on top. So ideally you need two types of GWR S1 chair -- one with plain screw-heads as above for use in pointwork, and one with a bit of bolt showing above the nut for plain track:
Alternative bolt-tops will be an option in Templot for the GWR chairs, but oh my, there is such a long way still to go.
Hardly anyone will notice the difference in 4mm scale, but I have to think ahead for 7mm and the larger scales.
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