timbersgalore
Member
- Location
- England
Phil thank you for making such useful info available, and Martin for the links.
I am going to be busy but that what I like.
I am going to be busy but that what I like.
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TEMPLOT 3D PLUG TRACK - To get up to speed with this experimental project click here. To watch an introductory video click here. See the User Guide at Bexhill West.
@Terry Downes
Hi Terry,
Welcome to Templot Club.
Drawings of the standard REA chairs can be downloaded from:
https://85a.uk/templot/club/index.php?resources/rea-bullhead-track-drawings.12/
Note that there are drawings for both 85lb and 95lb rail, don't get them mixed up. For code 75 bullhead you want the 95lb rail (BS-95R).
It's good to see the Templot exports being put to good use (p.s. in your photo you have the chairs in the timbers the wrong way round ).
I notice that you have provided your own printing supports for the chairs. Templot can do that for you, see:
https://85a.uk/templot/club/index.p...3d-printed-cnc-milled-laser-cut.229/post-2030
Timber webs under the rails can be difficult to remove without causing damage (the knife blade forces the timbers apart). Instead, Templot can add "sprues" to the ends of the timbers which are easily removed from track after laying, without damage (hold Xuron-type snips vertical):
View attachment 2927
View attachment 2928
To export the above, omit all the layers, and then switch back on just the 3 layers you want:
View attachment 2926
For the timber outlines and sockets Templot can set an allowance for the cutter kerf.
You should be able to open and edit the STL files in Fusion 360 (free for personal use). Or there are online converters to other formats.
The 3-D DXF files should open in any traditional CAD package -- I use TurboCAD.
For laser cutting use the 2-D DXF files, which can be opened in most CAD and drawing programs, such as Inkscape (free).
Sorry all this stuff is still extremely experimental in Templot and unfinished, and the docs have not yet been written (I'm not looking forward to doing that ). I'm currently working on the P slide chairs.
cheers,
Martin.
@Terry Downesbefore moving on to the crossing chairs, I have a query about the templot plug/hole features for 3PRB and 4PRB switch chairs. Templot shows 2 holes for 1&2PR chairs but only 1 hole for 3&4PR. is this intentional or just maybe because its still working progress?
@Terry DownesI think I'll try a one-piece chair for 1&2PR as they do not appear to have a fixed jaw on the inboard/moving rail face.
I don't quite understand the comment about the key bottom face being horizontal unless we are assuming the C&L rail has no fishing angle in which case I think the keys will fit and clear any internal radii.
Martin, you can do whatever you like with my posts, I do not object at all.@ralphrobertson
Hi Ralph,
That's looking good. it's great to see the Templot 3-D files being put to good use.
Thanks for posting, but if you don't mind I'm going to move your posts to a separate topic.
I'm at my wits end trying to explain to folks the intent of Plug Track (already had 3 goes on RMweb and on the Scalefour forum) and it's just going to confuse everyone if pictures of bottles of glue are posted in this topic.
Because the whole purpose of Plug Track, and the reason I'm developing it, is:
1. you don't use glue. The chairs are intended to be a press-fit in the timbers.
2. you don't slide the rail into previously fixed chairs. The chairs are threaded onto the rail before being pressed into the timbers.
(In effect the rail is used as a tool to insert the chairs. Pressing them firmly into place without rail in them risks breaking the jaws.)
Obviously you can use the Templot files any way you like, but I'm desperate to keep this topic focused on developing the original Plug Track idea and making some progress with it.
Presumably you are using glue because card sleepers are too fragile to accept a press fit? Also you obviously edited the default plug depths to fit 1.5mm card. And the plug or socket sizes to leave a few thou for the glue?
The default timber thickness and plug depth is now 3.0mm, but is much shallower if you are still using some files I posted last year.
Did you need to use track gauges while the glue sets, or was the fit close enough to produce an accurate gauge automatically? What rail are you using? Did you edit the rail fit for the chairs or use the Templot defaults?
cheers,
Martin.
For the sake of completeness in case anyone else wants to go down this road here are another 2 photos, one of the sleepers in a shellac bath and the other of the chairs being glued into the sleepers. The epoxy us the 20 minute version from DeLuxe which is not cheap but it comes in a big bottle and gives you plenty of time to get things right, 5 minute epoxy is sometimes just a bit too fast.
View attachment 4014
View attachment 4015
Ralph
Because the whole purpose of Plug Track, and the reason I'm developing it, is:
1. you don't use glue. The chairs are intended to be a press-fit in the timbers. But you can use glue if you want to.
looks good, I have not found anything strong enough to fix resin to fdm or timber so far so, I will give this a try. BTW, Amazon only has a couple of tubes available... going fast.
Which at first sight appears to be ordinary white wood glue. But it obviously isn't, because it's supplied in a small 18gm dispenser with a fine applicator nozzle, similar to superglues, and very unlike the packaging for most wood glues.
I have now progressed the resin printed timbers with chairs and assembled as shown below. Now I need to wire/isolate and develop the stretcher bars to complete. I resin printed the timber blocks in 5 pieces at strategically positioned split points to enable the 94 rail pieces to be inserted etc. I have learnt a lot from this development and I'm wondering whether to offer a print and assembly service but not sure whether there would be any takers!Hi Martin,
I thought it was about time I showed my progress so far regarding my adaption on your plug track system. I hope I'm posting this in the correct forum?
I have now created my own crossing chairs within Fusion 360 and I'm currently experimenting with various methods of construction most of which can be seen below.
1 - Top view: resin printed assembly sections (2 pieces) where the sleepers, ballast base, chairs and positional joints are all printed as a single piece.
2 - Lower LH view: 1.5mm ply laser cut timbers with resin chairs slid onto bullhead rail and fitted into chair/sleeper holes
3 - Middle right views: Resin printed sleeper bases with/without resin chairs
4 - Lower right view: FDM printed sleeper base with resin chair.
View attachment 4040
I anticipate progressing #2 (laser cut timbers) to complete this half of the scissor crossing and then probably developing a variation of #1 & 3 for the double slips half of the scissor crossing.
View attachment 4041
Terry
@HayfieldThe work bench seems to de devoid of normal DIY use !!!
Hi @Martin Wynne@LittleWestern
Hi James,
How are you planning to make the fret? FDM 3D printing? Laser-cutting? Cameo craft cutter? Something else?
The first requires a 3-D STL file. The others require a 2-D DXF file. The settings differ for each.
And how long? For FDM printing it might need to be made in two clip-together parts for a full rail length.
When I know which I will make you a bit of video.
cheers,
Martin.
Hi SteveHi James,
You mentioned "off a plain track control template", but you need to save your desired control template to the backgound, as you cannot export the control template directly. Hope this helps.
Steve
@Hayfield
James Walters kindly gave me a laser cut P4 ply turnout base, as of yet I have not tried using it.
Hi Martin,I am leaning towards a combination of FDM printing for pointwork and laser cut ply for plain track panels. I think laser cutting ply will be much faster and I have a fairly ambitious layout plan in my head, one that will require a lot of plain track. I will let you know how my ordered 40W (input power, allegedly 10W output power) diode laser can actually do. The youtube clips I've seen of these more powerful diode lasers would suggest 3.2mm in ply should be achievable and cleanly. If this does not work, my fallback is to FDM print all the visible sleepers and probably the off scene ones too, but with just enough spacing to keep everything in gauge. May also just use copperclad and solder the rails in the off scene areas.
@murphaphI will let you know how my ordered 40W (input power, allegedly 10W output power) diode laser can actually do.