Steve_Cornford
Member
- Location
- Brighton, East Sussex
TEMPLOT 3D PLUG TRACK - To get up to speed with this experimental project click here. To watch an introductory video click here. See the User Guide at Bexhill West.
(I note that Elegoo seem to recomend 8 seconds for the ABS like grey resin)
I am now in the process of printing another set of S1 chairs and locator plugs, and will then measure these to see if i get any consistancy.
I am thinking that locator plugs are easier to measure than chairs.
I suppose it is the equivalent to etching a 10cm scale
with 1mm increments on an etch design, or for that matter the calibration lines that Templot prints for ensuring our templates are printed to the right size.
Picture of "bunched" sleeper sheet to follow, the design of which was performed by the laser cutting service.
Enough waffling for now, back to the resin tank to try out my 2nd build plate that has now arrived.
It is in a box labelled "sandblasted build plate" and is identical in looks to the one supplied with the Elegoo Mars 2 Pro.
Oh, and I have noticed that on a few of the 80 S1 chairs I printed with plug width adjusted by -0.3mm a corner of the chair baseplate had snapped off, as you predicted, but I suppose that happens in the real world too?
Was this in your paint brush process or in the Mercury wash phase?The top of the pin support pyramid is too small -- they all printed ok, but before UV-curing they were very delicate and several were lost in the washing process.
Was this in your paint brush process or in the Mercury wash phase?
@Steve_CornfordWhat I don't know is how difficult it is to remove cured rafts from the build plate. Only one way to find out.
@Steve_CornfordAssuming S1 chair plugs are designed to be 2.10mm, I suppose an accuracy of plus/minus 0.01mm is acceptable?
So my locators with adjustment of -0.20 (per side should give a target plug width of 2.10 - 2 * 0.20 = 1.70mm
Am I right in thinking that if the printers resolution is 50 microns (0.05mm), then objects produced will have nominal dimensions prouced in increments of 0.05mm (in the X and Y plane), but 0.01mm in the Z plane?
I am wondering whether it would be usefula to actually get a dark room bulb (one of those red ones)
You earlier posed question about incandescent bulbs but t'internet seems to imply that even these can emit UV
@Steve_CornfordThe bad news: Today's loose-jaw pins won't fit the slots.
Print in progress!
Am I any the wiser?
@Hayfield @Steve_CornfordSome might prefer the fixed jaw slide chairs, so perhaps we can persuade Martin to add a tick box option for this?
@Steve_CornfordDid you shake the bottle of resin well before use? You may have an imperfect mix if it has settled in the bottom of the bottle. The instructions say to shake it well, but don't explain how to deal with the fact that it is then frothy when you pour it out. I have learned the hard way to shake it an hour or so before I need it and leave it to settle in the bottle. This is all the typical learning on the job that they never put in the instructions.
@James WaltersFYI, I have a 100w laser with a 1500x1000mm bed, so it's capable of cutting quite impressive formations in one go.
I'd love to chat with you about my experiments at some point.
@Phil GHi Martin,
Just a quick comment about the idea of laser cutting the timbers, I am envisioning for something like a crossover the laser should basically remove any need to print a template and then build it to the print. In reality you could also that with both plain track and simple turnouts. However the poor use of the wood, would make that an expensive way to build track.
This Idea may not work, but I think it worth experimenting with.
If you find you need to have 3 dimensional capacity at the vee, I am thinking/hoping that's where the router option comes into play.
just an other idea to throw into the mix.
Cheers
Phil.
May be you should check if your CNC machine can take a laser head, it most likely can, all be it you will get a smaller cut area.