Creality Falcon 2 Pro (22W) : DXF & Gcode (TF/SD card : LaserGRBL)

[Stuart]

Hi

First time use of my recently purchased Creality Falcon 2 Pro. 22W.

The machine worked fine using the test Gcode located on the TF card that came with the machine.

I have now moved on to my first 'turnout' which has been exported as a DXF file and loaded it onto the TF card. The machine just beeped at me and nothing happened.

On further investigation it would appear that the machine will only accept Gcode when using the TF card.

I then downloaded LaserGRBL, but that appeares not accept DXF files.

So before I go down the route of the 30 day Lightburn trial and then purchasing it, I wanted to ask if anyone had also come across this?

Not sure if it's just me missing something or doing something wrong.

Any advise appreciated.

 

[Hayfield]

Stuart

May be a silly question but did you use 3D builder, then use a slicing program?

John

 

[Steve_Cornford]

Hi Stuart,
Are you sure LaserGRBL does not allow you to import DXF files?
There are references on github that it has been included.
Steve

 

[Stuart]

Stuart

May be a silly question but did you use 3D builder, then use a slicing program?

John

Hi John

Thanks for coming back to me.
I just followed James video and exported the file to the templot DXF-Files.

Not sure if that answers you question.

 

[Stuart]

Hi Stuart,
Are you sure LaserGRBL does not allow you to import DXF files?
There are references on github that it has been included.
Steve

Hi Steve

I down loaded the LaserGRBL and using the software clicked on open file from the templot DXF-File folder.
The LaserGRBL could not see the DXF file in the DXF-File folder.
I did check that the file was there, so not sure if the version of LaserGRBL I have is different to other versions.

I also asked the question in google and it came back to say LaserGRBL does not support DXF files.

In the past I have used my FDM printer (for sleepers) and Resin printer (for chairs), so laser is a new area for me.

Will check tomorrow to see if there is an import button, as against open file.

Many thanks

Stuart

 

[James Walters]

Hi Stuart,

I don't think laser GBRL does import .dxf's.
A work-around is to import the file into Inkscape and then save as a Gcode file.

Personally, I wouldn't bother. Lightburn is a very powerful program, and much easier to use than LaserGBRL in my opinion.
I think you will get greater value from your laser cutter generally (not just for Plug Track) by using Lightburn.
Sure, it's an extra expense, but I think well worth it.

Why not sign-up for the free trial? - you've nothing to loose and I'm sure you'll like the features within it. Faffing about with other software to convert files is infuriating and makes trouble shooting more problematic.

Best wishes,

James

 

[Hayfield]

Hi John

Thanks for coming back to me.
I just followed James video and exported the file to the templot DXF-Files.

Not sure if that answers you question.

Stuart I got the wrong end of the stick, ignore my previous comment

John

 

[Stuart]

Hi Stuart,

I don't think laser GBRL does import .dxf's.
A work-around is to import the file into Inkscape and then save as a Gcode file.

Personally, I wouldn't bother. Lightburn is a very powerful program, and much easier to use than LaserGBRL in my opinion.
I think you will get greater value from your laser cutter generally (not just for Plug Track) by using Lightburn.
Sure, it's an extra expense, but I think well worth it.

Why not sign-up for the free trial? - you've nothing to loose and I'm sure you'll like the features within it. Faffing about with other software to convert files is infuriating and makes trouble shooting more problematic.

Best wishes,

James

Hi James

Thank you for coming back to.
Excellent advise as always
Sounds like a plan.
Will sign up today.

Many thanks

Stuart

 

[Stuart]

Stuart I got the wrong end of the stick, ignore my previous comment

John

Hi John
No prob's understand

All the best
Stuart

 

[Terry Downes]

Hi Stuart, I would also suggest Lightburn. It is a one time purchase, it has excellent tutorials and a vast array of user help online. I use it for my lasered timbers on my Falcon 2. I have just cut all my timbers, x21 bricks, on the first of my 150cm x 75cm baseboards. Good luck and please shout if you need any assistance. Terry

 

[Stuart]

Hi Stuart,

I don't think laser GBRL does import .dxf's.
A work-around is to import the file into Inkscape and then save as a Gcode file.

Personally, I wouldn't bother. Lightburn is a very powerful program, and much easier to use than LaserGBRL in my opinion.
I think you will get greater value from your laser cutter generally (not just for Plug Track) by using Lightburn.
Sure, it's an extra expense, but I think well worth it.

Why not sign-up for the free trial? - you've nothing to loose and I'm sure you'll like the features within it. Faffing about with other software to convert files is infuriating and makes trouble shooting more problematic.

Best wishes,

James

Hi James

Wow, downloaded LightBurn and have all ready cut my first test turn out.

Thanks again

Stuart

 

[Stuart]

Hi Stuart, I would also suggest Lightburn. It is a one time purchase, it has excellent tutorials and a vast array of user help online. I use it for my lasered timbers on my Falcon 2. I have just cut all my timbers, x21 bricks, on the first of my 150cm x 75cm baseboards. Good luck and please shout if you need any assistance. Terry
View attachment 12819 View attachment 12820

 

[Stuart]

Hi Terry

Many thanks.
Have just done my first test turnout with LightBurn and the software & Laser combination are impressive.
I am using 1.3mm ply for my initial test prints, but plan to purchase 3mm ply from a model shop so I can use plug track chairs.

Any guidance on materials for the sleepers would be appreciated.

Nice track plan

Many thanks

Stuart

PS: I notice you have diamond crossing, which I will also have. Are you using resin printed chairs for these ?

 

[Phil G]

Hi Stuart,

I don't think laser GBRL does import .dxf's.
A work-around is to import the file into Inkscape and then save as a Gcode file.

Personally, I wouldn't bother. Lightburn is a very powerful program, and much easier to use than LaserGBRL in my opinion.
I think you will get greater value from your laser cutter generally (not just for Plug Track) by using Lightburn.
Sure, it's an extra expense, but I think well worth it.

Why not sign-up for the free trial? - you've nothing to loose and I'm sure you'll like the features within it. Faffing about with other software to convert files is infuriating and makes trouble shooting more problematic.

Best wishes,

James

Hi Stuart,
100% agree with James here. In fact I would go further and say having played with both laser GRBL and then Lightburn. It was chalk and cheese. in a nut shell one just works as you would expect and the other well not so much. As such I did not hesitate to pay the one time licence for lightburn. I would be surprised if you did not come to the same conclusion, after your free trial.

Also if you get stuck with anyhting on you laser Lightburn have a fantastic forum of people who are only to willing to help you out with all sorts of laser issues.
cheers
Phil,

 

[Stuart]

Hi Stuart,
100% agree with James here. In fact I would go further and say having played with both laser GRBL and then Lightburn. It was chalk and cheese. in a nut shell one just works as you would expect and the other well not so much. As such I did not hesitate to pay the one time licence for lightburn. I would be surprised if you did not come to the same conclusion, after your free trial.

Also if you get stuck with anyhting on you laser Lightburn have a fantastic forum of people who are only to willing to help you out with all sorts of laser issues.
cheers
Phil,

Hi Phil

Yes you are spot on.
Now having tried LightBurn I will be paying for the software when the 30 day trial expires.
If you would be kind enough to send me the link to the forum that would be appreciated.

Many thanks

Stuart

 

[Stuart]

Hi Stuart, I would also suggest Lightburn. It is a one time purchase, it has excellent tutorials and a vast array of user help online. I use it for my lasered timbers on my Falcon 2. I have just cut all my timbers, x21 bricks, on the first of my 150cm x 75cm baseboards. Good luck and please shout if you need any assistance. Terry
View attachment 12819 View attachment 12820

Hi Terry

Many thanks.
Have just done my first test turnout with LightBurn and the software & Laser combination are impressive.
I am using 1.3mm ply for my initial test prints, but plan to purchase 3mm ply from a model shop so I can use plug track chairs.

Any guidance on materials for the sleepers would be appreciated.

Nice track plan

Many thanks

Stuart

PS: I notice you have diamond crossing, which I will also have. Are you using resin printed chairs for these ?

 

[Phil G]

Hi Phil

Yes you are spot on.
Now having tried LightBurn I will be paying for the software when the 30 day trial expires.
If you would be kind enough to send me the link to the forum that would be appreciated.

Many thanks

Stuart

Hi Stuart link attched as requested
https://forum.lightburnsoftware.com/
by the way do you have a resin printer?

Just a quick comment on the question you asked Terry about diamond crossings.
Yes they can be made right now, however it's more of a kluge scenario, where you are borrowing the missing chairs for other areas of the diamond. This mean in truth there not all quite the right shape but they will hold the rail in the right place. One in fact needs some cosmetic surgery as well.

However personally speaking I would no longer bother with that. As when update 556b is released you will be able to do it correctly with the right chairs. Given the 556b will be released soon (I understand there is just one elusive bug holding it up at the moment)

The reason that matters is the kludge chairs idea does not generate the same socket in the timbering as the correct chair would. Therefore you can't retro fit the right chairs latter.

If you did decide to do the kludge and there is nothing stopping trying if you want too. Its important you do the resin chairs at about the same time (within reason) as laser cutting the timbers. Thats because they will become a matched set.

In fact even after the realise of 556b its important to note there are two distinct type of resin chairs. some are interchangeable such as the S1 chairs, and other are template location specific.
when its one of the interchangeable types there nothings stopping you batch building in quantity. knowing the the mating socket will also be always the same. I.e. a S1 chair will always find into a S1 socket.

On the other hand location specific chairs lets say an AB chair will be created only for that one instance you have on that particular template, as will the correct socket for that chair in the base.
Therefore when they are location specific both the resin chairs and the timbers be they laser or FDM made are in realty matched sets and need to assembled as such.

You can't take an Ab chair from one template and expect it to fit correctly into the socket of another template. the plug and socket may match but the geometry of the chair will only be right when fitted into that socket for that template.

For this reason you should always ensure location specific plugs and sockets are made and either built at the same time, or at the very stored as matched sets.
Cheers
Phil..

 

[Phil G]

@Stuart
Hi Stuart,
Further to Martin's message I was wrong to suggest K chairs and thus diamonds are imminent.(we are going to have wait some time longer for K chairs) Having said that I believe they would be the logical next chairs to get made (I am honestly not putting any pressure on you here Martin)

What I would say Stuart, assuming as I think you will have downloaded Lightburn V1.7.03 you will find a fantastic tool in the laser tools drop-down called Material test generator.
What this does is create an editable matrix of squares where you can change both the speed and the power of the laser. what its actually doing is giving you a visual indication of what that particular material, be it type of material ( think different type of wood for example) as well as wood vs paper, or thickness of material are doing as both the speed and the power change. you can even set it to show 1 pass vs say 2 or even 3 passes.

When you leaning your laser to understand what the sweet spot for each variable is very important.
Basically your looking for the option that gives you the cleanest cut and thinnest, you will notice some squares don't drop out, thats important as the ideal is normally only just dropped out. you will also see there are options. Generally the fasted cleanest cut is best. these being generally the cleanest cut with little to no over burn.

You can if you like do a home made version of the same thing. This time just using a line instead of a square the attched video link is useful for this. he explains a square grid and it dates from a time before the Material test generator was included. you can use the logic in straight line cuts though.

what this then does is allow you to use a feeler gauge to find out what is the true burn thickness at the bottom of the material. noting as the material get thicker the optimum settings will change. You often use this idea to determine how many passes will be optimum as well.

see photos of some of my actual test piece. My advise always write as much info as you can, and then save to test pieces. Its amazing how often you need to refer to them at the beginning.

Over time as in James's case when you have done it enough, you will intuitively have a very good idea what speeds and power settings work. when you are just starting off understanding this key element is really critical to get true success out of your laser set up.
cheers
Phil

 

[Stuart]

Hi Stuart link attched as requested
https://forum.lightburnsoftware.com/
by the way do you have a resin printer?

Just a quick comment on the question you asked Terry about diamond crossings.
Yes they can be made right now, however it's more of a kluge scenario, where you are borrowing the missing chairs for other areas of the diamond. This mean in truth there not all quite the right shape but they will hold the rail in the right place. One in fact needs some cosmetic surgery as well.

However personally speaking I would no longer bother with that. As when update 556b is released you will be able to do it correctly with the right chairs. Given the 556b will be released soon (I understand there is just one elusive bug holding it up at the moment)

The reason that matters is the kludge chairs idea does not generate the same socket in the timbering as the correct chair would. Therefore you can't retro fit the right chairs latter.

If you did decide to do the kludge and there is nothing stopping trying if you want too. Its important you do the resin chairs at about the same time (within reason) as laser cutting the timbers. Thats because they will become a matched set.

In fact even after the realise of 556b its important to note there are two distinct type of resin chairs. some are interchangeable such as the S1 chairs, and other are template location specific.
when its one of the interchangeable types there nothings stopping you batch building in quantity. knowing the the mating socket will also be always the same. I.e. a S1 chair will always find into a S1 socket.

On the other hand location specific chairs lets say an AB chair will be created only for that one instance you have on that particular template, as will the correct socket for that chair in the base.
Therefore when they are location specific both the resin chairs and the timbers be they laser or FDM made are in realty matched sets and need to assembled as such.

You can't take an Ab chair from one template and expect it to fit correctly into the socket of another template. the plug and socket may match but the geometry of the chair will only be right when fitted into that socket for that template.

For this reason you should always ensure location specific plugs and sockets are made and either built at the same time, or at the very stored as matched sets.
Cheers
Phil..

Hi Phil

Many thanks for all the information.

I have all three printers now, Resin & FDM as recommended last year by James and now have the Creality Falcon 2 pro.

Yes I have now downloaded LightBurn software and had some initial success with the Laser for cutting the sleepers as a test, in some 3mm scrap wood. (again using James video as guidance)

I have about 30 or more points to make (along with some diamonds) for the layout extension.
Having used copper clad method of construction for the points on the first part of my layout, I am hoping to simplfy contruction using plug track (resin printed chairs) with Laser cut wood sleepers.

Love Templot (although I am not an expert) which has made it possible to build my model layout, but it is early days and a lot to learn with the plug track etc.

Once again thank you for advise which is always welcome.

Stuart