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TEMPLOT 3D PLUG TRACK - To get up to speed with this experimental project click here.   To watch an introductory video click here.   See the User Guide at Bexhill West.

  • The Plug Track functions are experimental and still being developed. Some of the earlier pages of this topic are now out-of-date.

    For an updated overview of this project see this topic.   For some practical modelling aspects of using Plug Track see Building 3D Track.

    The assumption is that you have your own machines on which to experiment, or helpful friends with machines. Please do not send Templot files to commercial laser cutting or 3D printing firms while this project is still experimental, because the results are unpredictable and possibly wasteful.

    Some pages of this and other topics include contributions from members who are creating and posting their own CAD designs for 3D printing and laser-cutting. Do not confuse them with Templot's own exported CAD files. All files derived from Templot are © Martin Wynne.
  • The Plug Track functions are experimental and still being developed.

    For an updated overview of this project see this topic.   For some practical modelling aspects of using Plug Track see Building 3D Track.

    The assumption is that you have your own machines on which to experiment, or helpful friends with machines. Please do not send Templot files to commercial laser cutting or 3D printing firms while this project is still experimental, because the results are unpredictable and possibly wasteful.

    Some pages of this and other topics include contributions from members who are creating and posting their own CAD designs for 3D printing and laser-cutting. Do not confuse them with Templot's own exported CAD files. All files derived from Templot are © Martin Wynne.

Experimental Plug Track: 3D-printed, CNC-milled, laser-cut

Quick reply >
Here's another before-breakfast idea. It just needs a few changes to the flange and sprue settings, as you can see. I'm on the case. :)

With a few changes to the settings, the timbers could be individually resin-printed, with chairs or sockets. They could be bunched up and re-arranged on the printer build plate.

Then the filament printer need print only a slotted spacing framework to contain them. Much easier and faster to print -- a 3D alternative to a paper template:

flange_slots_only.png


If the timbers are glued into it, the framework could be left in place and buried in the ballast. Or it could be removed during construction.

Resin-printing the timbers gives a much cleaner result than the filament printer, with square corners and a better precision fit for the chair sockets.

It would also be possible to laser-cut the framework in thick card, or whatever. (Simply sticking the timbers to a paper template isn't too practical because of the need for them to be very precisely positioned and aligned, but some may want to try it. No filament printer or laser cutter needed.)

Martin.
 
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Which leads to the thought that maybe a better way to create the spacing framework would be to use one of these, instead of 3D printing:


It seems the size goes up to 12" x 24" 60ft, much larger than home filament printers, and the machine software includes a DXF import.

Can I afford another Amazon delivery? Birthday coming up soon. And a very useful tool for model boats. :)

Martin.
 
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And more thoughts.

It seems these cutters can easily cut 0.8mm card. If we used a good quality card, maybe it could cut the chair sockets with sufficient precision? And if sealed afterwards with shellac or similar, maybe this would be an adequate alternative to 0.8mm plywood for model timbers? Or maybe two layers could be laminated to match 1.6mm timbers and flexitrack?

card_timbers1.png

It wouldn't matter if it can't manage the sharp internal corners in the sockets, because the chair plugs have an angled relief across the corners.

The Silhouette software is free to download, so I tried it:

card_timbers2.png


No problems there importing the DXF from Templot.

The great advantage of this method, is the available work size. 12" wide and effectively any length you like. It would just be a matter of sourcing the card in large sheets, which shouldn't be a problem.

Laser cutters are getting comparable in price, but with a much smaller work area.

Food for thought.

Martin.
 
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I use Inkscape software (also free) to draw up items to be cut using my Silhouette Cameo as I've found that easier to use than Silhouette's software. I've also used Inkscape to draw up my layout as well as etching masters.
 
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I use Inkscape software (also free) to draw up items to be cut using my Silhouette Cameo as I've found that easier to use than Silhouette's software. I've also used Inkscape to draw up my layout as well as etching masters.
@David Catton

Thanks David.

Can you explain how you get the file from Inkscape into the Cameo? What file format do you use?

cheers,

Martin.
 
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Hi Martin,

I'm following this thread with bated breath as it looks as if it will accelerate building my layout so if I can make any small contribution to bringing your developments closer, I'll do anything I can. I've saved off the process I use from RMWeb but as it's in .docx format I've had to convert it to .pdf which I hope has worked . . .

Keep going - this is fascinating
 

Attachments

  • GETTING READY TO CUT-converted.pdf
    789.6 KB · Views: 202
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Now you're talking!

Bash out the timbers on a sheet then plug in the chairs. It's almost (but a lot better than) where Peco left-off sixty years ago with their spiked track on fiber bases. And if the bases are too thin print two or three and laminate them.
 
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I'm following this thread with bated breath
@David Catton

Thanks David. As I thought, the file from a CAD program has to be imported into the Cameo software to be usable on the cutter. Fortunately it seems happy to accept DXF files from Templot.

Please don't hold your breath. :) There is still a long way to go, I still have all the special chairs to do. When 228a is released shortly, it will be possible to do only plain track as a finished object, and then only with REA chairs, not GWR. Everything else is still experimental.

cheers,

Martin.
 
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Now you're talking!

Bash out the timbers on a sheet then plug in the chairs. It's almost (but a lot better than) where Peco left-off sixty years ago with their spiked track on fiber bases. And if the bases are too thin print two or three and laminate them.
@AndyB

Hi Andy,

Well yes, possibly.

As you probably guessed, a button somehow got clicked and a Cameo 4 will be here on Tuesday. :)

As usual, trying to get definitive technical info from the web is next to impossible. 500 Google pages on how to make a fluffy bunny rabbit, but nothing on the X-Y resolution of the drive gear. The only way to find out what works is to get one.

Whether Templot users are more likely to have access to such a machine, or to a filament printer, or a laser cutter, is a big unknown, so I'm trying to cover all options. Certainly for printing an entire track plan, the work area of these cutters is far and away more suitable.

cheers,

Martin.
 
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I've now added an optional end flange on the timbers. This isn't needed strength-wise for filament-printed timbers, but if using the flanges to print or cut a spacing framework for resin-printed timbers, it makes it easier to arrange the sprueing for pointwork and curved plain track:

end_flanges.png


The number of options and tickboxes is starting to get out of hand. :)

Martin.
 
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@AndyB

Hi Andy,

Well yes, possibly.

As you probably guessed, a button somehow got clicked and a Cameo 4 will be here on Tuesday. :)

As usual, trying to get definitive technical info from the web is next to impossible. 500 Google pages on how to make a fluffy bunny rabbit, but nothing on the X-Y resolution of the drive gear. The only way to find out what works is to get one.

Whether Templot users are more likely to have access to such a machine, or to a filament printer, or a laser cutter, is a big unknown, so I'm trying to cover all options. Certainly for printing an entire track plan, the work area of these cutters is far and away more suitable.

cheers,

Martin.

Hi Martin,

I have to admit it's pretty unusual for me but I'm extremely optimistic :giggle:

Assuming there are no major "gotchas" it seems like a really good collaboration between 2-D and 3-D technologies.

Cheers!
Andy
 
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I have to admit it's pretty unusual for me but I'm extremely optimistic :giggle:
@AndyB

Hi Andy,

Glad you are feeling better -- you mentioned on RMweb that you hadn't been well.

The Cameo 4 claims to be capable of cutting balsa wood, but unlike a laser cutter I suspect 1/32" (0.8mm) plywood is probably beyond it. Or would cost a fortune in blades. Whether the hobby is ready to accept card timbers again after all these years remains to be seen. They would need sealing with shellac or a modern equivalent waterproofing to hold the gauge tolerance for P4.

cheers,

Martin.
 
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Hi Martin,

To get crisp corners using the Cameo, draw all the horizontal lines and then all the vertical lines, or vise a versa. The cutter seems to follow the way the drawing is produced.
 
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To get crisp corners using the Cameo, draw all the horizontal lines and then all the vertical lines, or vise a versa. The cutter seems to follow the way the drawing is produced.
@Phil O

Thanks Phil. It would be possible to do an edit on the DXF file to achieve that before saving it.

There is also an "Overcut" function for sharp corners:

cameo_overcut.png



I can see a lot of trial and error to find the best results. :)

The main challenge at present is to find a cardstock material which is thick enough to use for timbers, but with a high-quality surface and texture for precision cutting. Most thicker card available seems to be the "greyboard" material found on the back of writing pads, etc., which is a coarse texture made from recycled cardboard. A precision cut is needed to locate the chairs accurately and maintain the track gauge.

As an alternative to plain card, I've ordered some of this to try:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00GKCF3WW

Black seems a better starting point for timbers than white. Thickness 1.25mm (1250 microns). Also available up to A1 size and in various colours if it turns out to be any good.

The alternative is to use the Cameo to create a spacing framework, or 3D template, for individual 3D-printed timbers. In which case the quality and thickness isn't so critical.

cheers,

Martin.
 
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@AndyB

Hi Andy,

Glad you are feeling better -- you mentioned on RMweb that you hadn't been well.

The Cameo 4 claims to be capable of cutting balsa wood, but unlike a laser cutter I suspect 1/32" (0.8mm) plywood is probably beyond it. Or would cost a fortune in blades. Whether the hobby is ready to accept card timbers again after all these years remains to be seen. They would need sealing with shellac or a modern equivalent waterproofing to hold the gauge tolerance for P4.

cheers,

Martin.

Physically fine :). Sometimes I just find it hard to get started on (or finish!) things.
 
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The Cameo 4 arrived, but I'm a bit disappointed in it. The build quality is very flimsy/plasticy, and no comparison with the Elegoo 3D printer. I can't see it being much help to us for actual track construction. I think I was kidding myself that a blade cutter could match die-cutting or punching to create precision cut-outs in thick card.

The standard blades appear to have a cutting edge which is near vertical, which obviously isn't going to cut anything much thicker than about 10 thou / 0.25mm with any precision, and it doesn't. Even at that thickness I can't find a setting which will cut through ordinary card cleanly without raising a burr or leaving rough edges. It would probably be fine for scoring plasticard for snapping, but that's about all.

I do have a couple of the alternative "Kraft" blades (isn't that cheese?) which have an angled cutting edge more akin to a craft knife, which may work better to create a proper slicing action, but I haven't tried them yet. Mainly because the instructions say they are only for soft craft materials such as cork or foam, although they do also mention thin balsa wood sheet. I have seen some 2mm foamboard with a foam core which might be worth investigating.

But all is not lost, because the machine does have one redeeming feature. By fitting a "Sketch Pen" in place of the cutter it is possible to have the equivalent of an A3 roll-feed pen plotter, with no restrictions on the page length (unless you regard 60ft as a restriction :) ). I say "equivalent", but that should be taken with a pinch of salt, given the plastic construction, and the ball-point pens, but it is actually usable:

cameo4.jpg


So instead of taking files to a digital copy shop, you could print your own track plan in 2 strips to cover a typical say12ft x 2ft baseboard. Which makes it easier to do trial-and-error reprints, and saves the cost of commercial wide-format printing. Some standard A3 printers allow roll feeding, but not an unlimited page length (unless they still support the old "banner printing" option).

It's going to need some changes in the Templot DXF to be fully usable -- at present the paper is constantly feeding to and fro over the full length, which is obviously out of the question for a print several yards long. I need to do a post-edit function on the DXF to put everything into strict page order, and break long lines into several short ones. That's one more thing on the list. :)

For actual track construction I would want to use the proper printed templates, but for seeing the overall track plan on the baseboard this seems acceptable. If you are printing 3D track bases in small modules, this might be sufficient to align them, rather than fitting together lots of A4 sheets.

The machine seems to have little built-in intelligence, just the stepper drives. The heavy lifting is done in the software on the computer, and transmitted over the USB connection in real time. Which means the CPU is heavily loaded all the time the machine is working. If you are running it from a laptop the fans will come on.

The roll of 300mm wide drawing paper came from Amazon:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B006ZKHE58

It is too small in diameter to fit the roll holder properly, and I had to remove the end plates as you can see on the table. No doubt something could be improvised or 3D printed to solve that.

So all in all the Cameo has been a bit of a distraction -- back now to getting 228a finished for 3D printing.

cheers,

Martin.
 
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The Cameo 4 arrived, but I'm a bit disappointed in it. The build quality is very flimsy/plasticy, and no comparison with the Elegoo 3D printer. I can't see it being much help to us for actual track construction. I think I was kidding myself that a blade cutter could match die-cutting or punching to create precision cut-outs in thick card.

The standard blades appear to have a cutting edge which is near vertical, which obviously isn't going to cut anything much thick than about 10 thou / 0.25mm with any precision, and it doesn't. Even at that thickness I can't find a setting which will cut through ordinary card cleanly without raising a burr or leaving rough edges. It would probably be fine for scoring plasticard for snapping, but that's about all.

I do have a couple of the alternative "Kraft" blades (isn't that cheese?) which have an angled cutting edge more akin to a craft knife, which may work better to create a proper slicing action, but I haven't tried them yet. Mainly because the instructions say they are only for soft craft materials such as cork or foam, although they do also mention thin balsa wood sheet. I have seen some 2mm foamboard with a foam core which might be worth investigating.

But all is not lost, because the machine does have one redeeming feature. By fitting a "Sketch Pen" in place of the cutter it is possible to have the equivalent of an A3 roll-feed pen plotter, with no restrictions on the page length (unless you regard 60ft as a restriction :) ). I say "equivalent", but that should be taken with a pinch of salt, given the plastic construction, and the ball-point pens, but it is actually usable:

View attachment 1634

So instead of taking files to a digital copy shop, you could print your own track plan in 2 strips to cover a typical say12ft x 2ft baseboard. Which makes it easier to do trial-and-error reprints, and saves the cost of commercial wide-format printing. Some standard A3 printers allow roll feeding, but not an unlimited page length (unless they still support the old "banner printing" option).

It's going to need some changes in the Templot DXF to be fully usable -- at present the paper is constantly feeding to and fro over the full length, which is obviously out of the question for a print several yards long. I need to do a post-edit function on the DXF to put everything into strict page order, and break long lines into several short ones. That's one more thing on the list. :)

For actual track construction I would want to use the proper printed templates, but for seeing the overall track plan on the baseboard this seems acceptable. If you are printing 3D track bases in small modules, this might be sufficient to align them, rather than fitting together lots of A4 sheets.

The roll of 300m wide drawing paper came from Amazon:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B006ZKHE58

It is too small in diameter to fit the roll holder properly, and I had to remove the end plates as you can see on the table. No doubt something could be improvised or 3D printed to solve that.

So all in all the Cameo has been a bit of a distraction -- back now to getting 228a finished for 3D printing.

cheers,

Martin.

That’s disappointing for me as well! At work we have an ancient Craft Robo cutter that is unable to cut 10 thou plasticard, not that that was its intended purpose! From all the advertising blurb I had visions of cutting 20 thou carriage sides with the Cameo 4, but it seems that’s not to be 😢
 
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That’s disappointing for me as well! At work we have an ancient Craft Robo cutter that is unable to cut 10 thou plasticard, not that that was its intended purpose! From all the advertising blurb I had visions of cutting 20 thou carriage sides with the Cameo 4, but it seems that’s not to be 😢
@Paul Boyd

Hi Paul,

Bear in mind that I've had the Cameo for only a couple of days, so I still have a lot to learn. I wouldn't write it off completely just yet.

I think the kraft blade might be able to cut thicker plasticard quite well, if you don't mind a lot of faff. Essentially I think you are supposed to make repeated cuts, each time with the blade set a fraction deeper. The snag there is that changing the blade depth means removing the blade unit from the machine, adjusting the depth on the end cap, and putting it back in. So not a 5-minute job if it needs several cuts. The maximum kraft blade depth is 3mm, so in theory 0.5mm (20 thou) ought to be easy.

The kraft blades are new for the Cameo 4 machine, so there isn't a lot of experience of using them in the modelling forums. If I wasn't tied up with 228a I would do a lot more experimenting before dismissing the machine entirely. I think I have some 20 thou plasticard, so I will do a test to see what happens.

cheers,

Martin.
 
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Hi Martin,

It might be possible to use one, or something similar, for cutting out the timbers and the pockets for the chairs from thin plywood or some other material.
@AndyB

Thanks Andy.

That would surely be very slow? And I'm not sure how many Templot users would have access to such a machine.

The big, and in fact only, advantage of the Cameo blade cutter was the work area for laying out a 3D track plan -- 12" wide by as long as you like. Absent that, I think we may as well stick with FDM printing for the timbers. I've confirmed that it is doable, and have some Cura slicer settings I can share. 3D printing is now quite widespread in the hobby and gaining ground -- I suspect many Templot users will have a friend or fellow local club member with a 3D printer. Or if not, they will do quite soon. :)

Or laser-cut timber bases in plywood. Home laser printers are coming down in price, but don't offer work areas much greater than FDM printers. But several firms offer Templot laser-cutting to order, if folks don't mind the cost:

https://www.intentio.shop/index.php?route=product/product&path=25&product_id=78

https://greenwoodmodelrailwayproducts.co.uk/product-category/laser-cut-products/timber-track-base/

http://www.timbertracks.co.uk/index.php?route=product/category&path=8

cheers,

Martin.
 
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The roll paper is interesting but won't fit the roll paper holders on the Epson 1290S, however I see this is as a challenge. Perhaps Richard Pedder on RMWeb etc might be able to help with the Cameo 4, as he uses his for cutting out parts for buildings and rolling stock etc,
 
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if you don't mind a lot of faff. Essentially I think you are supposed to make repeated cuts, each time with the blade set a fraction deeper. The snag there is that changing the blade depth means removing the blade unit from the machine, adjusting the depth on the end cap, and putting it back in. So not a 5-minute job if it needs several cuts.
@Paul Boyd

Hi Paul,

Just a rewind on that. It is possible, just, to change the kraft blade depth with the cutter in the machine. Using a two-pronged tool such as the one provided, which appears to be for something else (unspecified).

Martin.
 
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The roll paper is interesting but won't fit the roll paper holders on the Epson 1290S, however I see this is as a challenge. Perhaps Richard Pedder on RMWeb etc might be able to help with the Cameo 4, as he uses his for cutting out parts for buildings and rolling stock etc,
@Stephen Freeman

Hi Stephen,

One solution to getting paper rolls of a required width is to use decorators lining paper. The full roll can be cut to any width using a junior hacksaw, or other fine-tooth saw. Put cable ties around the roll on each side of the cut to keep the roll tight while cutting. Clean up the cut end with a dry nail brush or similar.

Lining paper is available in thick grades and some makes are good quality paper. But the surface is fairly rough, so not suitable for printing or drawing very fine detail.

Lining paper also makes a good backing roll to fix trimmed A4 template pages with Spraymount adhesive. Neater and more accurate than taping them together.

cheers,

Martin.
 
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@Stephen Freeman

Hi Stephen,

One solution to getting paper rolls of a required width is to use decorators lining paper. The full roll can be cut to any width using a junior hacksaw, or other fine-tooth saw. Put cable ties around the roll on each side of the cut to keep the roll tight while cutting. Clean up the cut end with a dry nail brush or similar.

Lining paper is available in thick grades and some makes are good quality paper. But the surface is fairly rough, so not suitable for printing or drawing very fine detail.

Lining paper also makes a good backing roll to fix trimmed A4 template pages with Spraymount adhesive. Neater and more accurate than taping them together.

cheers,

Martin.
In this case the width looks to be OK it's the diameter of the central tube that is too small. |I have previously tried the cutting a larger roll down but it isn't easy (still have some to use) but I think resolving the issue of the central tube is probably easier to overcome.
 
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In this case the width looks to be OK it's the diameter of the central tube that is too small. |I have previously tried the cutting a larger roll down but it isn't easy (still have some to use) but I think resolving the issue of the central tube is probably easier to overcome.
@Stephen Freeman

Hi Stephen,

Same problem on the Cameo, the spigot on the end plate doesn't line up with the roll core. That's why I removed the plates.

Easy fix for someone with a 3D printer :) -- make a replacement end plate.

cheers,

Martin.
 
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@Stephen Freeman

Hi Stephen,

Same problem on the Cameo, the spigot on the end plate doesn't line up with the roll core. That's why I removed the plates.

Easy fix for someone with a 3D printer :) -- make a replacement end plate.

cheers,

Martin.
It's probably easier to make a separate roll holder, positioned to the rear of the printer (Epson 1290S), just needs some wood and suitably sized piece of rod/dowel. Now I know I can get roll paper of a suitable size without too much trouble at a reasonable price, I think I shall be exploring the possibilities this weekend.
 
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I have added a bottom taper on the sides of the chair plug. This makes it much easier to locate the chairs over the sockets before pressing them home:

plug_taper.png

Also the underside of the plug is no longer dead flat. This reduces the overhang from the support pyramid to make it less likely that chairs will go missing in the resin on the printer.

Getting there slowly. :)

Martin.
 
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I wish I could have a play with the 3D export features you are working on, obviously it's disabled in the current release...
@Wayne Kinney @Paul Boyd

Hi Wayne,

Templot update version 228a is now on the server. Experimental 3D export functions now available, but the operative word is experimental. :)

Your copy of Templot should update automatically if you restart it and follow the instructions. If you have the Templot Video Player open, please close it first.

More info at: https://85a.uk/templot/club/index.php?threads/templot2-update-version-228a-now-available.228/

cheers,

Martin.
 
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Now that version 228a is released some of the functions mentioned above are now available.



New in 228a:

1. To get started with 3D exports, click this option:

exp_chairing1.png


This option is template-specific, like everything else in the real menu.

Note that it makes sense only for plain track at present, the special crossing chairs for pointwork will be available in a later version.

More to follow...

cheers,

Martin.
 
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...

2. Resin printing some S1 chairs

1. first set your gauge/scale. Don't forget! I set EM.

2. real > chairing / 3-D > experimental chairing

3. set a custom plain track setting with close sleepers. real > plain track options > rail lengths and sleeper spacings... > custom settings... I set a rail length of 12" containing one sleeper at 6" from the rail end.

edit: having now printed these, I would make the spacing a bit wider than 12". It would make it easier to remove the chairs from the pyramids using Xuron snips.

4. reduce the track gauge. gauge > modify current settings > modify track gauge... I set 5mm.

5. create a straight plain track template. Set the template length to suit the build plate on your resin printer.

making_s1_chairs1.png


More to follow...
 
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...

Store it as a background template, and maybe add some more templates:

making_s1_chairs2.png


(the DXF export ignores the control template).

I switched off the timber infill in the generator to make the screen clearer, but it's not necessary because the timbers will be ignored.

In the background shapes, draw a rectangle around the chairs (purple line above). This will be the support skate for printing the chairs, so don't waste resin by making it larger than necessary.

More to follow...
 
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... However, that's over 100 chairs. Which means the STL file will be quite large (the chairs are about 250KB each in STL).

Which is not a problem in principle. But in this experimental 228 version we likely need to make use of an online mesh repair service, and such a file is very likely to exceed their limits. So for this testing it's wise to cut back to something more manageable:

making_s1_chairs3.png


24 chairs there. Most slicer software will allow you to clone/duplicate models on the build plate, if you want more chairs in one go.

Click the menu to export a file.

making_s1_chairs4.png


and click DXF/STL exports.

Which then shows all this stuff:

making_s1_chairs5.png


If you have not used the DXF exports before, there is a lot to take in. But for now:

1. click the 3-D option, and you also want a STL file.

2. choose the rail section which matches your rail. Note that these settings are my best information only, and may need revision. Your feedback welcome.

3. click chairs only. This is a shortcut button which simply changes a lot of the other settings for you.

There are lots of other settings 99 to come back to later and do trial and error adjustments. You can change the fit of the rail in the chair, make track-gauge corrections, change the dimensions of the support pyramids, thickness of the support skate, etc.

4. click the button to export the files. First you are likely to see this:

making_s1_chairs6.png


If the dimensions for your selected rail do not match those at real > rails > rail section data... , the templates must first be rebuilt with your dimensions. The files will then be created.

By default the files will go into your \DXF-FILES\ folder.

After they have been created,

5. click this button to go online to a mesh repair service. Upload the STL file which you just created. Wait your turn in the queue and for the file to be analysed and fixed. Download the fixed STL file when it appears. One fine day none of this will be necessary, and Templot will create perfect STL files straight off. Don't hold your breath. :)

The online link is also available in the utils menu.

If you have some CAD software, you might like to have a look at the DXF file while you are waiting. You should see something like this:

making_s1_chairs7.png

But it's not necessary -- only the fixed STL file is actually needed for 3D printing.

More to follow...
 
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...

And then the fixed STL file can be opened in your slicing software. This is Chitubox (free):

making_s1_chairs8.png


which has a clone function to lay out multiple copies of the model on the build plate. In my case for the Elegoo Mars printer, there is room for 5 copies of the original file, so that's 120 chairs in total. It looks possible to pack on quite a few more, with some adjustment to the template length and support slab sizes.

The design is now ready for slicing and transfer to the printer. For finely detailed small models such as these, use the thinnest layers your printer will support. In my case that's 0.05mm per layer.

cheers,

Martin.
 
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Having created the file for the screenshots, I thought I may as well print it. By changing the auto-arrange settings in Chitubox, I got 6 strips on the Elegoo build plate, so that's 144 S1 chairs -- and they all printed ok.

Still on the build plate, next step is UV cure:

more_s1_1.jpg


I used the UV machine, but in today's weather I could have simply left them in the sun for an hour or two. :)

more_s1_2.jpg


Having put a bottom taper on the chair plugs, I think they could now be a fraction deeper for a firm fit. Especially for use with through-hole sockets in 1.6mm timbers. The side flanges on these plain-track sleepers have much improved the strength of the sleeper alongside the socket. C&L nickel-silver rail:

more_s1_4.jpg


more_s1_3.jpg


Because they all printed, and therefore no bits left in the resin, I avoided the faff and mess of filtering the resin back into the bottle. Just covered the resin tray with aluminium foil until next time.

cheers,

Martin.
 
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