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TEMPLOT 3D PLUG TRACK - To get up to speed with this experimental project click here.   To watch an introductory video click here.   See the User Guide at Bexhill West.

  • The Plug Track functions are experimental and still being developed. Some of the earlier pages of this topic are now out-of-date.

    For an updated overview of this project see this topic.   For some practical modelling aspects of using Plug Track see Building 3D Track.

    The assumption is that you have your own machines on which to experiment, or helpful friends with machines. Please do not send Templot files to commercial laser cutting or 3D printing firms while this project is still experimental, because the results are unpredictable and possibly wasteful.

    Some pages of this and other topics include contributions from members who are creating and posting their own CAD designs for 3D printing and laser-cutting. Do not confuse them with Templot's own exported CAD files. All files derived from Templot are © Martin Wynne.
  • The Plug Track functions are experimental and still being developed.

    For an updated overview of this project see this topic.   For some practical modelling aspects of using Plug Track see Building 3D Track.

    The assumption is that you have your own machines on which to experiment, or helpful friends with machines. Please do not send Templot files to commercial laser cutting or 3D printing firms while this project is still experimental, because the results are unpredictable and possibly wasteful.

    Some pages of this and other topics include contributions from members who are creating and posting their own CAD designs for 3D printing and laser-cutting. Do not confuse them with Templot's own exported CAD files. All files derived from Templot are © Martin Wynne.

Experimental Plug Track: 3D-printed, CNC-milled, laser-cut

Quick reply >
Hi Martin,
It was not a complaint merely an observation,:) I know you know what it all means, I am just wading my way though, what I can and can't currently do. Is there a link to some previous wise words on the evolution of the chair experiments? and thus the naming methodology your using.

By the way I just picked up a second hand older Wanhoa D7 1K screen resin printer, for 100 bucks (the price of a bottle of resin here.) So once its up and running I will see if a 1K screen is good enough to resin print these chairs and jaws.
Wil report progress once I have it up and running. That's my way of experimenting.
Cheers
Phil
 
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message ref: 6300
I am just wading my way though, what I can and can't currently do. Is there a link to some previous wise words on the evolution of the chair experiments? and thus the naming methodology your using.
Hi Phil,

At present it's best to say what you want to do, and I can tell you what to tick and untick, if it's possible. It can vary between different program updates as I find my way through it all. I made a lot of changes in 237c.

Sorry there are not yet any words, wise or otherwise. Even I don't always know what I mean. :)

cheers,

Martin.
 
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message ref: 6302
I think I can risk releasing my development version 237c as it stands.

Oh no I can't. Here's another bug:

bug_237c_1p_2p_middle.png


237c bug warning:

Switching off the outer jaws for the slotted chair bases loses the fixed outer jaw for the switch rail on the 1P and 2P switch heel chairs. There is currently no way to export those chair bases with the loose jaws option for the stock rail.

I'm sorry about that -- I knew I should do more testing before releasing 237c. I will get 237d released as soon as I can.

cheers,

Martin.
 
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message ref: 6306
Hi Martin,
I was just wondering of you could do me a favour, I understand Turbocad can also save files as DWG as well as DXF?
If so I was hoping you could save a raft of chairs you have previously created as a DWG file and then post the file on this forum. Ideally these would be the new check rail chairs, but for the purposes of this experiment it does not matter much.

The reason for the request is its looking as though current versions of AutoCAD no longer support DXF in 3D format.
The reason seems to be Autodesk have now bundled that feature into there 3DS software package instead.
The proof would be if I can open your 3D Turbocad DWG file and not the DXF file.
Its all very annoying and to be honest very typical of Autodesk to do this sort of thing.
Cheers
Phil
 
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message ref: 6307
237c bug warning:

Switching off the outer jaws for the slotted chair bases loses the fixed outer jaw for the switch rail on the 1P and 2P switch heel chairs. There is currently no way to export those chair bases with the loose jaws option for the stock rail.

The only way to fix this is to create a huge new table of tick boxes. I was hoping to leave this stuff until much later, but I can see endless temporary explanations being needed on here if I don't do it now.

It will take me a few days, so I'm sorry I won't be able to release a fix for this bug immediately.

cheers,

Martin.
 
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message ref: 6308
Hi Martin,
I was just wondering of you could do me a favour, I understand Turbocad can also save files as DWG as well as DXF?
If so I was hoping you could save a raft of chairs you have previously created as a DWG file and then post the file on this forum. Ideally these would be the new check rail chairs, but for the purposes of this experiment it does not matter much.

The reason for the request is its looking as though current versions of AutoCAD no longer support DXF in 3D format.
The reason seems to be Autodesk have now bundled that feature into there 3DS software package instead.
The proof would be if I can open your 3D Turbocad DWG file and not the DXF file.
Its all very annoying and to be honest very typical of Autodesk to do this sort of thing.
Cheers
Phil
@Phil G

Hi Phil,

Sure. I will post a DWG file in a few minutes time. It will be created by my 2015 copy of TurboCAD so you may need to select that option in the settings.

I will also post a DWG from DSM 6 which should be fully up to date.

However, please note that there is no way Templot can export DWG files natively. DXF, STL and EMF are the only options. EMF is 2D-only of course.

please note everyone -- you do NOT need a CAD program or CAD skills to use Templot plug track.

cheers,

Martin.
 
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message ref: 6309
Hi Martin,
I think I may have stumbled on an explanation for the need to use Form-ware to so called repair the STL file.
When Templot generates a DXF or STL file, is it doing it by creating a mesh or surface model?
If so that's the key difference, AutoCAD have removed from there current packages.

It looks as thought a major, if not the major market for 3D mesh or surface modelling is the digital film industry.
what an STL file needs to be sliced is a 3D solid model. The so called Form-ware repair is actually turning a surface or mesh model into a 3D solid model. (also the reason for the file size increase.)

The slightly scary thing is, if Autodesk have worked out how to make even more money by splitting solid modeling from mesh and surface geometry, how long will it be before everybody follows suit?

Once again it looks as though you have found a solution to a problem, we did not even know we had looming.

My only fear would be the more people are forced to use Form-ware as a working solution to the lily growing issue this will create, the more likely the site gets bogged down with traffic use.

I am certainly not suggesting you change anything in Templot, but it may be prudent to warn of delays in fixing STL output files when using sites such as form-ware.
Cheers
phil
 
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message ref: 6310
I am certainly not suggesting you change anything in Templot, but it may be prudent to warn of delays in fixing STL output files when using sites such as form-ware.

Hi Phil,

I have used some Templot funds to purchase a local copy of the Formware software. I'm happy to provide a conversion service for any member here having difficulties with the online service, either from congestion or file size.

I do not understand the difference between a mesh and a solid model in terms of the dimensioning. I'm probably too old to learn now. :(

cheers,

Martin.
 
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message ref: 6311
Sure. I will post a DWG file in a few minutes time. It will be created by my 2015 copy of TurboCAD so you may need to select that option in the settings.
@Phil G

Hi Phil,

Here are some DWG files in various formats from DSM6 and TurboCAD. The DWG format seems to be a movable feast.

It's interesting that TurboCAD warns me that DWG can't contain all of TurboCAD's features, and it won't open them properly even when it saved them itself. Some fail to open in TurboCAD and some 3D DWGs open in 2D. I give up!

DSM6 is the very latest version of DesignSpark Mechanical only a couple of months old. So presumably its DWGs are up to date, but who knows?

test_raft.png


These are all solid-jaw chairs. A mixture of S1 (smallest), CC (medium-sized) and CCL/CCR (the largest). Rendering is from TurboCAD.

Notice that the DWGs from DSM6 are many times larger than the TurboCAD files. :confused:

cheers,

Martin.
 

Attachments

  • tcad_2013_test_raft_mm.dwg
    316.2 KB · Views: 61
  • dsm6_2007_test_raft_mm.dwg
    1.3 MB · Views: 61
  • dsm6_2018_test_raft_mm.dwg
    1.2 MB · Views: 55
  • tcad_2007_test_raft_mm.dwg
    317.8 KB · Views: 55
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message ref: 6312
p.s.

And here are the DXF and STL (Formware-fixed) from Templot for the above.


please note everyone -- you do NOT need a CAD program or CAD skills to use Templot plug track.


Martin.
 

Attachments

  • midland_central_23_04_10_0111_17_mm_fixed.stl
    11.7 MB · Views: 54
  • midland_central_23_04_10_0111_17_mm.dxf
    1 MB · Views: 53
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message ref: 6313
Hi Martin,
I am not an expert by any means but the key difference as understand it is, not so much in dimensioning, because if you think about it all dimensions are really surface related. A surface or a mesh is about a visual presentation which is exactly why it works on a screen or movie. You can still measure it though from point to point, and you can create it from dimension input as well. A solid object is a true solid, it has to be contained in all vectors, a mesh or surface does not.

Interestingly in AutoCAD you do have an option to convert both mesh's and surface into solids.
Both can also be exported as an STL file, in mesh or surface you can't open the file in Chitubox without first (fixing it) as a solid you can open it directly in Chitubox.
so by converting a mesh which will not work in Chitubox into a solid all within AutoCAD, you can then make it work,

I am hoping I can open a DWG as a mesh or surface and then convert to solid.
Do you have a solid or surface option in Turbocad? if so you may find you can do the same thing there.
cheers
Phil,
 
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message ref: 6314
Hi Martin success in opening both Tcad versions,
the DSM6 both opened as 2D files, screen shots of each attached
give me a few hours with the Tcad versions to fully understand what is actually being exported.
out of interest are you rendering the file to show the screen shot?
cheers
Phil

Sucess importing as Tcad  2007.jpg


Sucess importing as Tcad  2007.jpg


DSM6 2007 opens as a 2D file.jpg
 
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message ref: 6315
Do you have a solid or surface option in Turbocad? if so you may find you can do the same thing there.

Hi Phil,

There is a function to create a mesh. I have very rarely made any use of it. I can't find anything about solids. Here is the Users Guide for my version of TurboCAD -- perhaps it can answer your question:

https://turbocaddoc.atlassian.net/wiki/spaces/TC2015UG/overview

Yes, I render the Templot DXFs in TurboCAD because it's easy to do and is a good way to see what I'm creating in Templot. To get the same render in DSM requires a lot of work. However for actual 3D design on the rare occasions I do any I use DSM (not this free version, I have the paid-for Creator version):



cheers,

Martin.
 
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message ref: 6316
I am hoping I can open a DWG as a mesh or surface and then convert to solid.
@Phil G

p.s. Phil,

Can I ask why you need to do this? You should be able to do all you need for plug track with the STL files from Templot.

There is no way you will ever get a DWG file out of Templot.

cheers,

Martin.
 
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message ref: 6317
Hi Martin,
The sole reason was originally to print off rafts of my choice of chairs, As I said I am after examples of all chairs current avaible to fully test out the laser. I understand cad much better than Templot at the moment so it seemed the quickest option. It then morphed in to why does Acad not work? when it should. I now have the answer to that one, and since you posted the mixed raft fixed file I can simply load that into Chitubox to print the chairs. So in the end Inow have exactly what Iwas looking for
thanks
Cheers
phil,
 
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message ref: 6318
and since you posted the mixed raft fixed file I can simply load that into Chitubox to print the chairs. So in the end I now have exactly what I was looking for
@Phil G

Hi Phil,

Just to clarify, you could have created that STL yourself in Templot, you don't need to use your own CAD.*

If you are not sure how to do that we can go over it in the Zoom meeting this week. Seeing your photo of rafts of P chairs I assumed you were ok with it.

please note everyone -- you do NOT need a CAD program or CAD skills to use Templot plug track.

cheers,

Martin.

* unless you want to do your own mesh-fixing.
 
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message ref: 6319
The only way to fix this is to create a huge new table of tick boxes. I was hoping to leave this stuff until much later, but I can see endless temporary explanations being needed on here if I don't do it now.

It will take me a few days, so I'm sorry I won't be able to release a fix for this bug immediately.

cheers,

Martin.

A fix for this will mean a version bump to 238a.

Reluctantly that means losing some legacy compatibility. BOX files created before version 071a may load with some discrepancies in the check rail dimensions.

If you have any BOX files from earlier versions than 071a (i.e. created before 24th May 2001) please load them now into 237c and re-save them.

That's 22 years ago, so probably there are not many such old files still in use.

cheers,

Martin.
 
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message ref: 6320
Hi Phil,
I would recommend that you perform a "calibration" of your resin printer with your chosen resin.
You might find that you need to adjust the default shrinkage settings in the Templot export to get accurate prints.
At least I did.
I found the easiest way to perform this was to create a short piece of plain straight track in templot and use this to export a .TSL file, then fix the file using the link that Martin supplies on the epxort page before slicing in chitubox & printing.
Having cured the trackbase you can then measure the sleeper lengths, the sleeper thickness and the overall length of the sleeper base to the outside edges of the end sleepers..
If not as expected adjust the Templot default shrinkage settings and repeat process.
This is similar to the printer calibration that Martin has supplied for inkjet & laser printers, but you have to do a bit more work yourself to achieve it.

Printer Calibration
1681148385999.png


Starting with a new trackpad, I have set gauge to P4, and chosen plain track set curve to "/" (which gives straight track), then set length to 110mm (suits my Mars 2 Pro printer), switched on experimental chairing, and switched on timber numbering in trackpad. The sleepers are a scale 8'6" (34mm), and the distance between te outside faces of A1 and A12 sleepers can be determined by difference in x centre position of timbers A1 & A12 plus the width of a whole sleeper. 106.00 - [-0.17] + 3.33 = 106.5.
Tick the bricklaying box and the colour box, then "store and background" the template.

Click DXF/STL file export
1681149452624.png

Tick "timbering brick only" (top left), untick "add brick label text".
Click [timbers only] (middle right) and you get this so far:-
Click [timbering sizes ] button to see all the default settings for the timbers. in particular note "3D timber depth (thickness) of 3.24mm
In the bottom right hand of the screen select the 3-D for resin radio button
You can click the [above shrinkage settings} button to see that on the third page of these setting Martin has defaulted the resin shrinkage settings for all 3 axes to 0.25% (x,y,z)

Now click on the [rebuild now] button (for 337c at least) before clicking on the green [Export DXF/STL file] button

Perform the [repair STL file onlline] process

Slice the "fixed" version of this file (aligning it with the longest dimension of the build plate) and then print it.
Cure it.

Measure it.

Compare the measurements with the target measurements of 106.5mm, 34mm and 3.24 mm.

Adjust shrinkage% settings as necessary & repeat.

I chose 110mm as a target length of template to comfortably fit my builld plate size of 120mm by 80mm, so you might have to adjust this depending upon your build plate size.

Hope this helps
Steve
box file attached
 

Attachments

  • p4_calibration_2023_04_10_1916_12.box
    16.2 KB · Views: 58
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message ref: 6321
.
Update 238a will gain 60 new tickboxes, with space for more for the crossing chairs:

chair_tickboxes.png


These settings will be template-specific. That means

a. the settings will be saved in the BOX file.

b. you can have different settings for the same chairs in different templates in the same DXF/STL export.

However, for the present the settings will apply to all chairs of each type in the template.

Eventually it will be possible to change these settings for each individual chair, but not yet.

Note that you won't often need to click these boxes one at a time. The 3 buttons at the bottom will change them all to the most likely requirements.

It will be a day or two before I can get this released to fix the problems in 237c.

I didn't want to get into this level of complexity until much later, but needs must. It is very likely to change again before we are done. :)

cheers,

Martin.
 
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message ref: 6322
Hi Steve,
Thanks for your post, to be honest I had not even considered the idea of printing any track on my Mars 3 pro printer, that's only because I had dismissed any practicality of using the very small build area available on home resin printers mine is (143 X 89mm) to be able to make track. Even if you follow the brick plan, my layout will be a shade of 15 meters in length with an average of 5 roads over that length when finished. (if ever finished) If you do the math on bricks of say 140 mm. The brick idea just did not work for me.

My current real focus is splashing out on a laser printer for all timbering. As I see that as the only practical approach to making track for a layout, I can even see the logic of laser cutting the more complex point work from a single sheet of timber. To this end I need to print off chair plugs. Please note that is very much my personal view and like everything everybody has the right to there own views.

That said once I read your post I can immediately see the logic of printing something with a lager build area and then using this to calibrate the shrinkage of my machine. To this end I will very much take up your idea as means of calibrating my machine.
Thanks for the box file.
Cheers
Phil,
 
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message ref: 6323
Hi Martin,
I was going to take you up on the idea of using some of the zoom meeting to go though how to be chair specific when using Templot 237C.
However given your last post where your already right into 238A there does not seem much point in that.
I would however very much appreciate of a zoom meeting, going over the current though process you have when using the new features
of 238A once you have it ready.
Please note there is no rush on my part, so please don't think I am pressuring you to realise 238A. You should take what ever time you think it needs to debug before such an update release.
Cheers
phil,
 
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message ref: 6324
@Phil G

Hi Phil,

The problems in 237c apply only to double chairs with loose jaws. Single chairs with loose jaws are ok, and solid chairs, so there is plenty to talk about. But we must go more slowly than last time when I skated over a lot of stuff because it was getting late.

However, I currently have a bad head cold, which is unusual for me. If it's not better by Wednesday I won't be at the Zoom meeting, because I can't talk properly through a hail of coughing and spluttering. :)

cheers,

Martin.
 
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message ref: 6325
Hi Martin,
Firstly hope your not suffering to badly and get well soon.
If you can do most of what I am trying to do in 237C, I do think there is logic in going though a structured approach to getting useful rafts for printing directly out of Templot.
Given you clearly under the weather, I think its better to defer to the next Zoom meeting.
I will watch the posts, but please don't put your health at risk for the sake of a meeting that can be rearranged with no problem.
Cheers
phil,
 
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message ref: 6326
Hi Phil,
I just suggested resin printing timbers for calibration purposes, although I have successfully printed them complete with clips to assemble into a test track.
I have already outsourced some 1.6mm lasercut sleepers which worked ok but did have to reduce socket width for 3.3mm wide sleepers. All part of the experiments.
Martin kindly sent me some samples of FDM printed timber bricks and these are impressive, so I am tempted to get an FDM printer as well.
My initial thought was to use 1.6mm sleepers located on some 3mm cork that had corresponding sockets only cut by laser, but jury still out on that method.
By the way once you have cured the resin suggest a thin coat of primer to protect your prints from further UV hardening.by default the chairs are designed to plug into 3.24mm thick timbers.
Happy experimenting
Steve
 
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message ref: 6327
Hi Phil,
I just suggested resin printing timbers for calibration purposes, although I have successfully printed them complete with clips to assemble into a test track.
I have already outsourced some 1.6mm lasercut sleepers which worked ok but did have to reduce socket width for 3.3mm wide sleepers. All part of the experiments.
Martin kindly sent me some samples of FDM printed timber bricks and these are impressive, so I am tempted to get an FDM printer as well.
My initial thought was to use 1.6mm sleepers located on some 3mm cork that had corresponding sockets only cut by laser, but jury still out on that method.
By the way once you have cured the resin suggest a thin coat of primer to protect your prints from further UV hardening.by default the chairs are designed to plug into 3.24mm thick timbers.
Happy experimenting
Steve
HI Steve,
Yes I now fully understand what you mean, its actually a great idea, thanks for suggesting.
My first go for 106.5 I got 109.5 for the 34 I got exactly the 34 and for the 3.24 I got 3.4 to 3.41. and a step down value of 1.66 for the top part of the timber. The finish is so good you could almost print a wood grain.

I just wanted to clarify before going any further x is the 106.5 right?
My machine setting are slightly different to Martin's. I am using a screen exposure time of 2.2 seconds after calibrating the machine for exposure time using the cones of calibration. with a Z height of 0.04
my X Y resolution with it being a 4K screen is supposed to be 0.035
what has surprised me is why is the 34 dimension spot on, but the other two are not. Were these similar to your results?
Cheers
Phil
 
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message ref: 6329
How long did you cure the finished print for?
I have a
N Elegoo Mercury was & cure machine, so I wash for 6 minutes, twice (2nd wash in clean IPA) I bought 2ndccontainer.
Then cured for 4. Minutes, then a scoosh of halfords red plastic priner to stop further shrinkage/cutting.
Yes there fo seem to be differences in x y axis.
Probably due to variation in effective pixel size?

Martin might have a better explanation.
Steve
 
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message ref: 6330
Hi Steve,
I wash by hand in an Ice cream tub of IPA normally for about 4 or 5 mins until the build plate washes clean,
than 5 mins in the Mercury wash, build plate still on. I can't get a spare bath right now, Martin give me the heads up this is a good Idea. My local NZ agent does not sell them and Elegoo online store is saying all sold out of stock currently.

Then 8 mins in the UV to harden of 4 min each side. I have a feeling I am over cooking the UV and will try a bit less.
I have not yet got a can of car spray, next thing on my shopping list. Do you think I am over curing?
 
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message ref: 6331
I balance the prints on an upturned glass tumbler & then just cure for 4 minutes with the print right way up.
As for length of timber base, if you real > heave timbers, then select A1 timber, then [crab] mouse button, but instead of moving timber click on the 0.00mm value it displays the actual x position M of cente of that timber, do same for A12 timber. Subtract one CB from t'other, then add width of a whole timber (3.33mm) assuming all your timbers are 3.33mm to get dimension of outside faces of th he two timbers.
Martin might know a better/easier way!
Could you have possibly got a 4mm timber at o e end of the template?

What gauge are you producing these in?
Another test would be to produce a shorter template & then print it in the same orientation, and then again at right angles.
My husband printer (Mars 2 pro) seems more accurate across the the shorter dimension of of the build plate.
Also it would be good to know what version of chitubox & elegoo firmware you are using also in chitubox a screen print of the advanced settings page.
Steve
 
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message ref: 6334
Hi Phil,
Just followed Martin's instructions to get:-
1681223535070.png

A12 to A1 centre to centre = 106.17, then add one timber width of 3.33 gives 109.50mm
so I think you were spot on!
Also you can print the template out on paper and overlay the timber base as a further check.
Steve
 
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message ref: 6335
Phil,
ps
my 106.50mm was a typo when i transcribed my scribblings from the margin of the newspaper I was reading to the computer screen,so sorry for any confusion.
pps
All my eggs recently have been chocolate!

Steve
 
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message ref: 6336
Hi guys,
whilst I don't disagree my machine my not be 100% correctly calibrated yet, if you look at the attached photo it cant be far off
I was so impressed I could slide 52 chairs onto a piece of EM gauge track with very little effort I thin the chairs do have slightly more than 0.25% shrinkage and its certainly got slightly worse during the course of the day. suggesting at least to me the shrinkage carries on for several hours post initial cure.
All I need now is to progress the laser cut timbers :)

20230412_194709.jpg


20230412_194653.jpg


Cheers
Phil
 
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message ref: 6341
Hi Phil,
On the contrary, your sleeper base x and y seem to be spot on, 34mm and 109.50mm respectively.
The chair rafts will start to curl up as they shrink if left unpainted.
A scoosh of red primer plus say a scoosh of some sort of brown to represent rusty chairs seems to inhibit this tendency, the bounus being you get a a good contrast between the chairs and lasercut ply sleepers,.
I have tended to stain the sleepers with diluted indian ink which is available in different colours which you can mix to achieve your desired hue.
What thickness of ply are you aiming to use?
As Martin has suggested you might be able to source 1/16" or 1/8" plywood as these roughly equate to 1.6mm and 3.2mm. Popular thicknessess with Aero modellers
!.5mm 3ply might be available from https://www.plytech.co.nz/birch-model-ply

Glad to see you are enjoying experimenting with plugtrack, Steve
 
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message ref: 6343
Hi Steve,
Thanks for looking up NZ ply options,
I have been in contact with Ply-tech there product is Birch ply imported from the USA and cost $110NZ ( about 55 quid) for a single 12" x 12" sheet, and unfortunately currently no stock of 1/16 or 1.6mm. I have however found a source of 2mm ply 5 x 300 x 300 sheets for 25 dollars.
So a much better option for experimenting,. without breaking the bank. All be it there selling Gabon ply. not Birch.
for the purpose of testing I am quite happy to go 2mm laser and 2 mm battens above a cork layer, so 4 mm instead of 3 but that just means either a bigger cess or pack up under the cess with a bit of cardboard.
I like your idea of Indian ink for staining.
Much more work to do but the whole thing is very exciting.
Cheers
Phil,
Ps I am assuming Martin will still be under the weather by this evening your time. 7.00am my time so I think I will miss the Zoom meeting this time.
 
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message ref: 6344
Ps I am assuming Martin will still be under the weather by this evening your time. 7.00am my time so I think I will miss the Zoom meeting this time.
@Phil G

Hi Phil,

I'm feeling better today thanks, so I will be at the 8pm Zoom meeting tonight. Usual 3 or 4 hours I expect.

Feel free to join in later if 7am is too early. Or if you say some other day/time I will try to be there for an ad hoc meeting.

cheers,

Martin.
 
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message ref: 6345
@Phil G

p.s. Phil, you know more about the time in NZ than I do. But according to Google:

"In January, February and March the time difference between New Zealand and the UK is 13 hours. In April the time difference is 12 hours. In May, June, July, August and September the time difference is 11 hours. In October the time difference is 12 hours."

Which makes it 8am?
:)

edit: I think Google is wrong.
 
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message ref: 6346
Hi Martin,
Your spot on, we normally change our clocks either a week or two weeks after the UK but we are going in the opposite direction.
IE as you move into BST we are coming out of NZST and visa versa.
Given you feeling much better, which I am glad to here. I will set my alarm and be in attendance. This time I will just listen I promises :)
Cheers
Phil
PS I got some very weird results last night when trying to rotate a tiled map image. It may have some thing do with going out for a meal with my wife, and having a bottle of very good pinot noir, something NZ excels at.
 
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message ref: 6347
Hi Martin,
Your spot on

@Phil G

I'm now totally confused! For your reference the time now in the UK is 12:15 , so you can work out the difference. The Zoom meeting will start in 7 hours 45 minutes from now.

cheers,

Martin.
 
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message ref: 6348
Hi Phil,
With reference to Mars 3 drip bracket, I found this on thinguverse & printed it in resin:_
20230415_080440.jpg
Took nearly 5 hours, cost £1.37
Tested ok:-
20230415_102202.jpg
The benefit of this design is that it stays clamped to build plate so much easier to slide build plate off and on the printer bracket less faff than themars2 supplied Bracket.
Will post a link later when have laptop o
Steve.
 
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message ref: 6365
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