First attempt at printing using a Bambu P1 S

[Vistisen]

Hi. I'm not sure whether it is a good idea to start a new thread. This is my first atttempt at printing a short section of plain track to test my Bambu P1S printer. I expect that I will have to adjust settings, but I will see what happens using default 0.08 layer settings. This printer is for those who don't know it very easy to use. It is on a my network up in the hobby room. and even has a built in webcam!:

it says that it waill take about 50 minutes

 

[JohnB]

Are you printing plug or COT track? If it's COT, have you looked closely at the chairs after slicing? I've just found something strange about Orca Slicer, that is based on Bambu Slicer. See my post in the COT topic. It slices properly in Prusa Slicer, and also in Qidi Slicer that's based or Prusa Slicer, so I'm wondering if the problem is just in Orca Slicer, or if Orca inherited it from Bambu Slicer. This is getting complicated!

 

[Vistisen]

I am planning to use my resin printer to print the chairs. So it is plug track. Here is the result of my first test:

Strangely my first stl file could not be sliced as it had 'floating elements'. I did a second stl file after clicking a few different checkboxes and the resulting file sliced without problems

 

[Steve_Cornford]

Did you perform a mesh fix first?

 

[JohnB]

I am planning to use my resin printer to print the chairs. So it is plug track.

OK. I think I've fixed my problem now, but for anyone using a Bambu printer for COT track it might be worth looking out for.

 

[Vistisen]

Just for fun I tried to do a COT print. This is OO gauge!! Which Templot says I should not even think about But even so, it looks better than I expected.:

 

[Vistisen]

Did you perform a mesh fix first?

Yes I did. I have the two stl files, so it any wants to try and see why I can upload them. I work in IT and get fed up when people report problems with no useful information. So I ought have made a note of what differences in export settings I used in the two examples. But as I said at the start, this was just a quick test to see what happens iof I use default settings on the printer

 

[JohnB]

Martin and the other testers are using cheap printers. You've got a good one, and mine is somewhere in between. Let's push boundaries and see if we can do what they say is impossible .

 

[Martin Wynne]

Martin and the other testers are using cheap printers. You've got a good one, and mine is somewhere in between. Let's push boundaries and see if we can do what they say is impossible .

@JohnB @AndyB

Hi John,

I didn't say it was impossible. I've made some 4mm COT track here on the Neptune 4. It's ok, but so far behind the resin and injection-moulded 4mm chairs I didn't think I should be recommending it. I found the chairs quite fragile and easily broken when threading rail. Plug track is the way to go in 4mm scale, I don't want to mislead beginners.

But it's a lot better than the 4mm COT track which I tried on a Marlin-based printer 5 years ago.

Andrew Barrowman in California has been producing 4mm COT track for several years, using CAD-drawn simplified chairs.

cheers,

Martin.

 

[Martin Wynne]

Just for fun I tried to do a COT print. This is OO gauge!! Which Templot says I should not even think about But even so, it looks better than I expected.:

View attachment 12129




View attachment 12130

Hi,

Looking good.

Which filament is that?

cheers,

Martin.

 

[Vistisen]

Hi,

Looking good.

Which filament is that?

cheers,

Martin.

Hi Martin,

I'm not sure to be honest. When I bought the printer last autumn, it was included with the printer, according to their website it is Bambus PLA basic.

It has given me really good results, I have only had one failed print. A friend of mine who is a teacher recommended the Bambu printer as a bombproof (childproof), easy to use fdm printer. The reviews I read/saw online all said that the Bambu slicer software is almost boring: Import stl file, click on slice, click on print. No need to worry about modifying settings. This first test was done with no changes to the default settings I have used for everything else done on the printer. It is a doddle compared to my resin Elegoo Mars 3 Pro printer. Which I will now need to go to for the chairs.

 

[Martin Wynne]

I'm not sure to be honest. When I bought the printer last autumn, it was included with the printer, according to their website it is Bambus PLA basic.

HI,

I think you will need to change to toughened PLA-Plus for the filing jigs.

Martin.

 

[Vistisen]

HI,

I think you will need to change to toughened PLA-Plus for the filing jigs.

Martin.

I will buy some when I get that far. I was surprised that even this first attempt could actully cope with me pushing rails into it, a few of the chairs snapped 6 out of 32. To be honest I think that most of them were because the thin nosed pliers knocked them when pushing rail in. I have found the zoom meeting where you show how to create bricks, so I might have a go at constructing a turnout soon

 

[Martin Wynne]

I will buy some when I get that far. I was surprised that even this first attempt could actully cope with me pushing rails into it, a few of the chairs snapped 6 out of 32. To be honest I think that most of them were because the thin nosed pliers knocked them when pushing rail in. I have found the zoom meeting where you show how to create bricks, so I might have a go at constructing a turnout soon

@Vistisen

Hi Tim,

For FDM COT track you need to "condition" the chairs first. File a short length of rail to a sharp v-point. Push it through the chairs to break any flash or stringing between the jaws. Then remove it and replace it with the finished rail which will slide through them much more easily.

Using PLA-Plus in 7mm COT the chairs are quite tough and not easily broken. In 4mm scale you need to be a bit more careful.

cheers,

Martin.