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TEMPLOT 3D PLUG TRACK - To get up to speed with this experimental project click here.   To watch an introductory video click here.   See the User Guide at Bexhill West.

  • The Plug Track functions are experimental and still being developed. Some of the earlier pages of this topic are now out-of-date.

    For an updated overview of this project see this topic.   For some practical modelling aspects of using Plug Track see Building 3D Track.

    The assumption is that you have your own machines on which to experiment, or helpful friends with machines. Please do not send Templot files to commercial laser cutting or 3D printing firms while this project is still experimental, because the results are unpredictable and possibly wasteful.

    Some pages of this and other topics include contributions from members who are creating and posting their own CAD designs for 3D printing and laser-cutting. Do not confuse them with Templot's own exported CAD files. All files derived from Templot are © Martin Wynne.
  • The Plug Track functions are experimental and still being developed.

    For an updated overview of this project see this topic.   For some practical modelling aspects of using Plug Track see Building 3D Track.

    The assumption is that you have your own machines on which to experiment, or helpful friends with machines. Please do not send Templot files to commercial laser cutting or 3D printing firms while this project is still experimental, because the results are unpredictable and possibly wasteful.

    Some pages of this and other topics include contributions from members who are creating and posting their own CAD designs for 3D printing and laser-cutting. Do not confuse them with Templot's own exported CAD files. All files derived from Templot are © Martin Wynne.

Getting a FDM Printer - but what else do I need

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richard_t

Member
Location
nr Spalding
Hi

So eventually after prevaricating long enough, I'm going to order an FDM printer this week. As I said exhaustively it's going to be a Qidi X-Plus, mainly because it's enclosed, and the house I live in isn't ... but also to some extent it's plug and print, and at this point in my life, I'd rather avoid the hobby within the hobby within the hobby. Eventually I plan to fit Raspberry Pi/Octoprint to the machine, but I can live without that to start with, and again to start with, it will sit on my desk in the study ... eventually it will go into an unused bedroom. The printer comes with two extruders, a "normal" one and a "hot" one for ABS, Carbon Fiber Filled Nylon.

As this is my first 3D printer of any sort - and I'd based all my previous research on getting a resin printer (which I am in April 2022 ... assuming the boat makes it), I don't have a clue about which filament to get, and what else I might need to order at the time. Hopefully this is where you lot come in...

So what do I want to use it for?

First off are jobs around the house: I have a number of extendable curtain rods where the plastic bit between the 2 rods has broken or otherwise gone missing, making pulling the curtains a pain. I'd like to make new "plastic bits" for those; I have a roman blind where the clips have broken (I have one left to make a 3D model from), so I'd like to make some of those (although I suspect the resin printer might be a better bet); I've some IKEA dinning room chairs where the screw that holds the legs to the frame goes through a plastic half moon "thing" to spread the load - well, you've guessed it, some of those have broke, so I'd like to print some of those as well. Some inserts in a curtain rod holder - where the rod holder is designed for inch diameter rod, but the rod I have is half inch... stuff like that.

For the garden, I'd like to make a graduated dibber (one in imperial, and one in metric); a sweet pea seed pusher (although this would be for next year); and a miniature "runner bean ring" to hold sticks to support some miniature sweet peas that are a gift for Christmas.

I'd also like to make some storage inserts for some rather flexible rulers so they can sit in a IKEA or Really Useful box, without fear of bending the rules, and so I don't have to keep taking it apart; and some general storage inserts for track, roller, back-2-back gauges and the like.

And of course model railway stuff, so the crossing vee jigs, and switch jigs ... probably also sleeper spacing jigs, and the like.

So what kind of filament should I get? Do I care about a brand? PLA, PLA+, PETG, ABS? I'd like to try ABS and Carbon Fiber Nylon, but only really because I can I suppose, not sure if any of the above needs it.

And anything else I should get at the time? A filament dryer? something for getting the prints off the bed (or would just a paint scrapper from Wilko do?). Something to stick the prints to the bed (3DLAC)... The list seems endless!

Anything else to help a newbie out would be greatly appreciated.

Richard.
 
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So what kind of filament should I get? Do I care about a brand? PLA, PLA+, PETG, ABS? I'd like to try ABS and Carbon Fiber Nylon, but only really because I can I suppose, not sure if any of the above needs it.

And anything else I should get at the time? A filament dryer? something for getting the prints off the bed (or would just a paint scrapper from Wilko do?). Something to stick the prints to the bed (3DLAC)... The list seems endless!
@richard_t

Hi Richard,

Looking at the specs for the Qidi, I think it will be you telling us. :)

For filament, I suggest using toughened PLA-PLUS for the household items, rail filing jigs, etc. The eSUN brand seems well regarded, this is the one I use:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07FQ75QG2

It is noticeably tougher than ordinary PLA, such as the stuff which will likely be supplied with the printer. In fact the filament which came with my printer is very poor quality.

But PLA is not weatherproof, so for your garden projects you will likely need something else, such as ABS.

Also there is no convenient solvent for PLA, whereas ABS can be glued using model solvents such as butanone. So for modelling projects you might prefer ABS.

For working parts of machinery -- gears, cams, sliders, etc., the usual choice is Nylon.

All the polymers tend to absorb moisture from the atmosphere, which degrades print quality. They come sealed in shrink-wrap with silica gel, but once opened need to be kept in a warm dry place between use. Whether you need an actual dryer is debateable.

It's very likely that some tools such as scrapers, etc., will be supplied with the printer. The best type of scraper is a window scraper from the pound shop. Basically a Stanley-type knife blade in a flat holder.

For sticking to the bed I use an ordinary cheapo glu-stick:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000SHPWMQ

edit: see below: https://85a.uk/templot/club/index.p...printer-but-what-else-do-i-need.337/post-3488

It will last forever -- just a couple of dabs, and then smear it out to a thin film over the bed using a damp sponge.

The glass bed on my machine is removable from the machine, so to extract the finished part from it I simply put it in a bowl of cold water for a few minutes while it is still hot. The combination of water dissolving the glue, and differential thermal contraction between the part and the glass soon frees it, assisted if necessary by some gentle prising at a corner with the scraper. Then a quick blast with a hair-dryer to dry off the finished part.

cheers,

Martin.
 
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Hi Martin

Thank you so much for your reply, and all the info - it really is appreciated.

Given the amount of condensation I have to vacuum off the windows each morning now the weather has changed, I do wonder if a drying chamber might be a good idea. I notice the filaments and all that are currently on offer...

Again, many thanks, and I'll report progress back here.

Richard.
 
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Hi

Ordered printer and a stupidly large selection of filament - last Tuesday just after this last post; the printer arrived by 9.00am Wednesday and the filament on Thursday (was estimated to arrive on Friday). Unfortunately I've picked up an infection, and I'm not taking to the antibiotics very well, so as I suspected it's sitting in it's box (next to Mylo's crate!). Today is the first day I've felt vaguely human again :-( December is a busy month for me as well, and I'm working over Christmas and New Year (on support), but I'll try to unbox and have a "play" ... errr learning experience... obv. I'll be back with more questions when I do.

Again, many thanks for your help.
 
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Hi

Feeling a bit better comes and goes - still, for a nearly 6 month old puppy, Mylo is remarkably grown up - I was worried how I was going to cope with him when I was barely able to look after myself; but I needn't of worried.

Thanks for the pointers on ASA, and the other links, - I'd not ordered any, but have now a black reel and white reel - Amazon (or at least when I searched), didn't seem to have any other colours (dark green would have been good for one part). The white I'll use for my various dibbers so I have a chance of finding them if I drop them!

Just for info I've ordered PLA+, ABS, PETG and Carbon Fibre re-enforced Nylon (by far the most expensive) - just to try them all, and see what I get on with the best.

(I wonder what Amazon thinks of my ordering, today I have some lens protection filters coming (appt. you don't need Skylight 1B/UV filters anymore), and Anchovy Essence in the same package - hopefully the essence is well packaged!)

Whilst ordering the ASA I might have accidently ordered a 3018 based CNC router/laser engraver ... oops ...
 
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@richard_t

Hi Richard,

This video is a frenetic run through every filament polymer known to man (except Anchovy), and their printing requirements:




With so many different polymers to try you may want to get some purge filament. See the video.

you don't need Skylight 1B/UV filters any more

I think they are built into the digital camera sensor to protect it.

cheers,

Martin.
 
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Hi

Thanks for that - next time I order something from Amazon I'll include the purge filament.

I suspect I'll be using PLA+ to start with - even for stuff for the garden ... until I get a little bit of confidence.

Keep the links coming though :D

Richard
 
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So yes - long time no update but ever since I've had my Covid booster, I've felt tired in the afternoon with little will to do anything other than watch YouTube, or a DVD or read a book. (And yes I'm sure although I feel tired, it's a million times better than actually catching Covid without vaccines.)

But Amazon delivered both the printer and filaments really quickly, along with a 3080 pro CNC router and various upgrades. As I suspected, they are both still in their boxes around a month later ...

CNC router:

_D4_1142.JPG


But to be fair, Mylo hasn't made much of a start on the 3D printer either (the box is next to his crate...)

3D Printer:

_D4_1143.JPG


And Mylo, yesterday, looking unconcerned...

_D4_1121.JPG

All the best

Richard
 
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Hi Richard,

Hope you are feeling better soon. All 3 jabs had almost no effect on me (apart from a sore arm), but from others I know I was lucky there. In a way I wish they had affected me -- at least I would know that they were working. :)

A bit puzzled that your CNC arrived in 4 boxes, mine (the Mostics brand) arrived all in one box. It still took a week or two before I got round to putting it together. Have you ordered any cutters? I've been meaning to try some downcut end mills for finishing the cut more cleanly, but they are quite a lot more expensive than the standard cutters so I haven't done anything about it yet.

Nice pic of Mylo -- what's your camera?

cheers,

Martin.
 
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With my first AZ jab I felt very fluey the morning after, but nothing with the 2nd jab. I had a sore arm for a week after the booster (Moderna), and as I say, physically and mentally tired in the afternoons.

Ah the CNC is in one box, but also got the larger Y travel and bed (edit: to make it to a 3040 appt.), limit switches, and then some T-nuts and clamps for the table. The 3080 pro package I got came with a set of various cutters and a separate set of engravers. It also came with a 15W laser module - that's a little scary!

The camera is a Canon 5D Mk 4, and that photo of Mylo (nose should have been in focus as well), was taken with a 85mm lens.

Richard.
 
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It also came with a 15W laser module - that's a little scary!

Hi Richard,

That's enough power to do real work.

The BIBO also came with a laser module, but I haven't got round to trying it yet. It's only 0.5W so not capable of much actual cutting, maybe paper and very thin card. It's described as for engraving. It was also described as a "free gift" with the 3D printer, which I suspect is a way of saying it's not covered by the guarantee. Fitting it means dismantling the extruder head so is no 5-minute task, but I really ought to try it just to see what if anything it can do.

cheers,

Martin.
 
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For sticking to the bed I use an ordinary cheapo glu-stick:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000SHPWMQ

It will last forever -- just a couple of dabs, and then smear it out to a thin film over the bed using a damp sponge.
@richard_t

Hi Richard,

Just an update to that -- nothing stays the same for 5 minutes nowadays.

Pritt-Stik have upgraded their formula to a new eco-friendly version, which may work fine for its intended purpose, but is completely useless for sticking items to the bed of a 3D printer. I need to get the older type or clone from the pound shop while it is still available, or maybe this stuff from ebay:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/393771416444

edit: see below: https://85a.uk/templot/club/index.p...printer-but-what-else-do-i-need.337/post-3521

cheers,

Martin.
 
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Here are some of mine thoughts:

For better sticking on the print bed some people in the Netherlands use hair spray.
I just buy my abs and for sticking on the bed spray from aliexpress.
In my experience (and my needs)all those new and (in my eye's) overly priced filaments are not worth it.
I started with regular PLA and moved on to ABS.
In the mean time i have learned to calibrate my printer properly.
You can not calibrate the printer and fine tune the printer enough.
On thingyverse you will find enough models to calibrate your printer.(don't get lost over there).
Dont forget to store your ABS filament dry! just in a air tight container with some silica gel or a other dehumidifier salt.

Have a lot of fun with your 3d printer, your only limit are your fantasies.
For building programs i used and tried a lot of them, all the way up to Rhino, but 3d builder of windows itself is probably the simplest, best and jet the most underestimated program of them all.
A bit like Templot, you start with one sleeper and you can end up with your countries complete railway system.

Regarding Milo...just give him the box ;) :cool: Master has something new to play with, what about poor Milo.

With best regards Igor
 
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For better sticking on the print bed some people in the Netherlands use hair spray.
@richard_t @Justme Igor

I tried hair spray some time ago, as widely recommended, but I couldn't get on with it. It didn't stick the part very well (to a glass build plate), and not being water-washable means messy cleaning up with solvent. Because of overspray it can't be applied in situ on the machine, so that means re-attaching the build plate to the machine while it is sticky. I found using a glue-stick is more effective and much easier to use and clean up.

It seems that the glue we need is PVP:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyvinylpyrrolidone

but almost every glue-stick manufacturer has changed from PVP to a "solvent-free" potato-starch based adhesive. Which loses all stickiness as the build plate warms up, and is useless for 3D printing.

Except these:

glue_stick.png
which unfortunately are available only in packs of 6:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B08ZRXNH8D/

As usual the only way to find out if they work was to get some. I'm pleased to report that they work fine, just the same as my previous glue-stick before it got "borrowed". :)

At the rate of using it for 3D printing 6 sticks will last me a lifetime. Just a few small dabs on the build plate are needed, smeared out to a thin film with a damp sponge.

Using this stuff I can sand a timbering base, and scrub it under the tap, while it is still attached flat to the build plate. Then just a little persuasion with the window scraper frees it, and the plate can be rinsed clean and replaced on the machine for next time.

The next experiment will be to see if this glue can be used to glue resin-printed chairs into any FDM sockets which happen to be a bit loose. It could be applied into the socket with a cotton-bud or similar, possibly after thinning a fraction with water. Being water-based it has a long open working time on non-porous materials, and any excess is easily wiped away. Because of the fixed resolution of the stepper drives it is impossible to guarantee that every socket will be exactly the same size.

The same would apply to laser-cut and CNC-milled sockets, although there the water-based sanding sealer can be used as a penetrating adhesive.

cheers,

Martin.
 
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Hi All

So I found a spare hour this weekend to unbox my 3D printer, and to "adjust" the print bed (although not level it yet). In the bottom packaging was a glue stick!

Don't all get excited I haven't started printing yet (I'm a bit worried that it will suck all my time, and I've got a few other things on the go), but I did use it to prove a Malthouse loaf:

20220117_120324_small.jpg


Proving bread here during winter is a challenge - I have been using a pan of boiling water in an off oven technique to prove bread, but it's very messy - especially drying the proving bag. The above loaf looks a bit warty, but tasted fantastic!

All the best

Richard
 
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So finally, I hear you all cry, I've loaded some filament into my printer, and printed the QIDI test file. The filament is straight PLA as supplied by QIDI, and the test file is pre-sliced. Not having done this before, I was wondering if this all looks OK?
_D4_1173.JPG

Not the greatest of photos, but it's a bit dark here today. There's small strands on the bed between the corners on the left hand side, and there's still a strand from the nozzle to the top of the part. I have tried to level the bed before printing this, but perhaps I need to pay a bit more attention to the left hand side? Perhaps it's a tad high?

I've left the print on the bed for now - so if anymore photos would help, I can still get them. I'm planning another loaf on Friday morning, so will have to go by then! I must say, as a proving chamber it's brilliant!

Thanks in advance

Richard
 
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@richard_t

Hi Richard,

That looks good for a test print. It's probably set at medium quality (0.15mm layers?) and a fast speed for quick results. For detailed models you will probably want to go finer and slower.

To test your levelling, carefully remove the outer printed rectangle and measure the thickness at each corner, using a micrometer or caliper. If level, they will all be the same thickness. It should probably be around 0.3mm -- it's better to be under rather than over so that the polymer is squidged firmly onto the bed. Some whiskers and strands are inevitable when printing the first layer.

The strand on top as the nozzle finishes can probably be fixed by fiddling with the final retraction and lift-off settings in Cura. There is a setting called "coasting" in which extrusion is cut off slightly before the nozzle reaches the end of its movement to prevent such stringing.

To help prevent stringing you can probably reduce the temperature a bit. For PLA I normally use 205C for the first layer and 180C for the remainder. That's lower than normally recommended for PLA but works fine and produces a cleaner result.

p.s. should you not have removed that printed label from the bed before printing?

cheers,

Martin.
 
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Hi

Thanks for the confirmation that all looks well. The printed label is actually a magnetic reversible build plate - the other side is for higher temperature materials apparently.

I have noticed that on the test print the bottom layer or 2 or 3 (it's a bit hard to tell), has squidged out 0.15mm - I guess I could fillet or chamfer the part on the bottom to avoid this, or perhaps there's a setting in the slicer?

For slicer I'm initially going with the QIDI slicer - which I think is a branded version of cura. Hopefully I'll learn enough from it to be a bit more adventurous in the future.... in fact just about to install it now!

Thanks again

Richard.
 
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@richard_t

Hi Richard,

The squidging-out is called "elephant's foot" -- there is a setting in Cura to control it. More info at:

https://85a.uk/templot/club/index.php?threads/3d-fdm-printers.277/post-2718

It's worth installing the Settings Guide plug-in for Cura, see:

https://85a.uk/templot/club/index.php?threads/3d-fdm-printers.277/post-2707

Where parts need to fit together accurately, you may want to design a definite rebate to allow for any possible elephant's foot. For example I have done that for the connector clips on the timbering bricks for Plug Track:

clip_underside.png

cheers,

Martin.
 
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Hi

Thanks for all the help and support so far - I must say I am enjoying myself. Nothing model railway related, but a whole host of stuff for the garden and house. Some of the settings you've pointed out aren't in the Qidi version of Cura though, although coasting has helped quite a bit. Once I'm a bit more confident I'll probably switch to "full fat" Cura - or look for alternatives (Simplify3D seems to get good reviews, although one has to pay for it I think.)

A quick snap of what I've achieved so far ...

_D4_1178.JPG


The Lego looking thing is a combined compost "presser down" and "seed hole maker" - one for larger seeds, and another for smaller seeds for the trays for the heated propagator. The round thing is similar for a 58mm diameter pot. (Eek - didn't realise how dirty my desk is).

Couple of failures, both my fault - the first is a 1/2" curtain pole won't fit through a 1/2" hole ... and on the dibber the first version fell over as it was printing, as I'd not got enough supports, and with the 2nd version, as seen here, the text didn't come out well - either I should of used a different font, made the extrusion thicker, or sunk the text into the dibber. When this one breaks (as I'm sure I'll leave it in the greenhouse), I'll try something else. I did think I'd run out of filament, but it doesn't use a lot - I'm still on the PLA that came with the machine (hence why everything is red!)

The other thing I've found I need is a small bin for all the support bits...

I'd like to switch to PLA+ - the roll I have states a higher bed and nozzle temperature. Do you think that's all I need to change? The Qidi version of Cura doesn't have a preset for PLA+ (or ProPLA). Would the speeds stay the same? I'm also eager to try PETG, but on reading up on it, it looks like I need to use the smooth side of the build plate with Kapton tape on it - I have some narrow tape, but that would take for ever to apply, so I need to get some 50 or 100mm wide stuff. And my clothes dryer could do with new feet, for which TPU would be ideal, but I didn't think to get a reel of that.

With the switch to PLA+ I'll start looking at upgrades to the machine (sigh, a hobby in a hobby!)

As I say, loving it so far!

And again thanks!
 
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@richard_t

Hi Richard,

That looks great!

I've used exactly the same settings for PLA and PLA Plus, with no obvious reason to do otherwise. I do use a lower temperature though for both -- 205C for the first layer, and 180C for the rest. The lower temperature gives cleaner results for small details. On the other hand functional items such as your garden tools may be stronger at a higher temperature (better fusing of layers).

I have Simplify3D -- it's very expensive, and I can't think why I bought it when you consider that Cura does almost exactly the same for free, and comes with the printer. There are significant differences in the options available and in the actual gcode produced for any given model, but the end result from both seems fine. I have found the S3D printer simulation easier to use than Cura, so having sliced a model in Cura I sometimes preview the gcode in S3D.

The S3D web site (free) has some useful advice and settings guides, less techy than the Cura guide. See for example:

https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/stringing-or-oozing/

Another free slicer to look at is slic3r:

https://slic3r.org/

I tried it and rejected it before I had much idea what I was doing or what all the terminology was about. I might go back to it for another look. The timbering bricks for Plug Track are so different from typical 3D-printed models that it's likely that one of the slicers is more suitable for them than the others.

A difficulty with all these slicers is that there are so many inter-related settings -- temperatures, feed rates, flow rates, layer sizes, etc., that when you finally get good results it is difficult to pin down which of your setting changes was the key.

cheers,

Martin.
 
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