Ready Steady Go!

[Cransford]

Well, after all the irritations have finally managed to print very first piece of track base;

Doesn't Look too bad at all, and I think will benefit from a light sanding of top face. Next step is printing some chairs to assemble the panel and check gauge. More news anon!

 

[Martin Wynne]

Well, after all the irritations have finally managed to print very first piece of track base;

View attachment 11584
Doesn't Look too bad at all, and I think will benefit from a light sanding of top face. Next step is printing some chairs to assemble the panel and check gauge. More news anon!

@Cransford

Well done Paul. Looking good.

However, I think you have used one of the standard printer profiles. You would get a better timber surface if you used a custom profile, and the printed bed brim is not needed.

Assuming that is a Neptune 4, here is my current profile for 4mm timbering bricks using the Cura slicer.

Note that after importing it, you must actually select it for use in the drop-down list.

p.s. This is for the Neptune 4 only -- too hot and fast for Neptune 3 and earlier.

It's still a good idea to give the timbers a light sanding, this allows the chairs to sit properly flush with the edges of the sockets. Use the abrasive sanding block/paper wet/soapy -- it will quickly clog from friction heat if used dry.

cheers,

Martin.

 

[Cransford]

@Cransford

Well done Paul. Looking good.

However, I think you have used one of the standard printer profiles. You would get a better timber surface if you used a custom profile, and the printed bed brim is not needed.

Assuming that is a Neptune 4, here is my current profile for 4mm timbering bricks using the Cura slicer.

Note that after importing it, you must actually select it for use in the drop-down list.

p.s. This is for the Neptune 4 only -- too hot and fast for Neptune 3 and earlier.

It's still a good idea to give the timbers a light sanding, this allows the chairs to sit properly flush with the edges of the sockets. Use the abrasive sanding block/paper wet/soapy -- it will quickly clog from friction heat if used dry.

cheers,

Martin.

Martin,

Many thanks, first step was always going to be printing out of the box as I'm not the most computer minded person!

I decided on the Neptune 4 Pro (essentially for the slightly larger build plate, although higher speed might be useful!), now for the BUT!

I've clicked on the file you kindly attached and it's appeared in the download folder. Not being sure exactly where, I had a rummage through the Elegoo Cura options and under 'preferences' and 'profiles' I guessed that I click on import, select the file from download and Bob would become my uncle! Unfortunately, the file fails to import. Any ideas where I'm going wrong?

Cheers,

Paul

 

[Martin Wynne]

Unfortunately, the file fails to import. Any ideas where I'm going wrong?

@Cransford

Hi Paul,

Which version of Cura are you using? It's likely to be an old out-of-date version of Cura on the USB stick which came with the printer.

Instead, you can download the Elegoo Cura 5.6 version directly by clicking this link:

https://github.com/ELEGOO-Slicer/EL...1229/ELEGOO_Cura_5.6.0_win64_X64_20231229.exe

My profile file was created with that version, so it should import ok. But make sure you have actually selected the Neptune 4 printer first:

If still no joy, please ask again.

cheers,

Martin.

 

[Cransford]

@Cransford

Hi Paul,

Which version of Cura are you using? It's likely to be an old out-of-date version of Cura on the USB stick which came with the printer.

Instead, you can download the Elegoo Cura 5.6 version directly by clicking this link:

https://github.com/ELEGOO-Slicer/EL...1229/ELEGOO_Cura_5.6.0_win64_X64_20231229.exe

My profile file was created with that version, so it should import ok. But make sure you have actually selected the Neptune 4 printer first:

If still no joy, please ask again.

cheers,

Martin.

Martin,

I'm actually using Cura 5.8. I can't immediately recall the version on the USB stick but recalled comments previously made about newer version and went to Ultimaker, which yielded the 5.8 version. Cura shows the Neptune 4 Pro (the only printer on it as the resin printer sits on Chitubox) but still won't import. Should I/can I load the older 5.6 version?

All help graciously accepted!

Cheers,

Paul

 

[Martin Wynne]

I'm actually using Cura 5.8. I can't immediately recall the version on the USB stick but recalled comments previously made about newer version and went to Ultimaker, which yielded the 5.8 version. Cura shows the Neptune 4 Pro (the only printer on it as the resin printer sits on Chitubox) but still won't import. Should I/can I load the older 5.6 version?

@Cransford

Hi Paul,

It's complicated. Isn't everything?

The native version of Cura from Ultimaker is not compatible with the custom Elegoo version. I have no idea why not.

I assumed that Templot users of plug track getting a Neptune 4 would use the Elegoo version, so I have been using the Elegoo version myself, and posted profiles for it. I would actually prefer to use the native 5.8 version, but that means creating a custom printer for the Neptune 4, and I can't face explaining all that again. I have already done it twice on here and once in a Zoom meeting.

I suggest you download and install the Elegoo Cura 5.6 version from this link:

https://github.com/ELEGOO-Slicer/EL...1229/ELEGOO_Cura_5.6.0_win64_X64_20231229.exe

You don't need to uninstall 5.8 and I suggest you don't try to, now that you have installed it.

You can use whichever version you prefer at any time if you have other printers. However the two versions are not very friendly towards each other, and every time you start either version of Cura you are likely to see something like this:

DON'T CLICK RESET

With Elegoo Cura 5.6 running you should be able to import the profile which I posted. Select Neptune 4 as the printer first.

Don't forget that after importing it you must select it in the drop-down list if you wish to use it.

cheers,

Martin.

 

[Cransford]

@Cransford

Hi Paul,

It's complicated. Isn't everything?

The native version of Cura from Ultimaker is not compatible with the custom Elegoo version. I have no idea why not.

I assumed that Templot users of plug track getting a Neptune 4 would use the Elegoo version, so I have been using the Elegoo version myself, and posted profiles for it. I would actually prefer to use the native 5.8 version, but that means creating a custom printer for the Neptune 4, and I can't face explaining all that again. I have already done it twice on here and once in a Zoom meeting.

I suggest you download and install the Elegoo Cura 5.6 version from this link:

https://github.com/ELEGOO-Slicer/EL...1229/ELEGOO_Cura_5.6.0_win64_X64_20231229.exe

You don't need to uninstall 5.8 and I suggest you don't try to, now that you have installed it.

You can use whichever version you prefer at any time if you have other printers. However the two versions are not very friendly towards each other, and every time you start either version of Cura you are likely to se this:

DON'T CLICK RESET

With Elegoo Cura 5.6 running you should be able to import the profile which I posted. Select Neptune 4 as the printer first.

Don't forget that after importing it you must select it in the drop-down list if you wish to use it.

cheers,

Martin.

Martin,

Thank you, as always. You never know, one day technology might actually be friendly!

Will follow directions but might be a few days as we'll be away but car has suddenly decided to take on water - literally! Crossing fingers garage can tell us why a 2.5 year old car can fill a footwell when it rains and fix it!

Cheers,

Paul

 

[Cransford]

Martin,

Thank you, as always. You never know, one day technology might actually be friendly!

Will follow directions but might be a few days as we'll be away but car has suddenly decided to take on water - literally! Crossing fingers garage can tell us why a 2.5 year old car can fill a footwell when it rains and fix it!

Cheers,

Paul

Martin,

Picture of second run if first raft, much better finish so will call that a success. Now on to printing some chairs for added decoration.

Enjoy an egg!

Cheers,

Paul

 

[Martin Wynne]

Martin,

Picture of second run if first raft, much better finish so will call that a success. Now on to printing some chairs for added decoration.

View attachment 11591

Enjoy an egg!

Cheers,

Paul

@Cransford

Hi Paul,



Presumably the profile imported ok? Into Elegoo Cura 5.6?

Is that with blind sockets or clear sockets?

If using clear sockets I suggest using some PVP glue on the printer bed. Not only to help adhesion, but also for a neater print of the socket outlines on the first layer. There was probably a PVP glue-stick supplied with the printer. A few dabs (with the bed cold), smeared out into a thin film with a damp sponge. One application will last for several prints:

cheers,

Martin.

 

[Cransford]

@Cransford

Hi Paul,



Presumably the profile imported ok? Into Elegoo Cura 5.6?

Is that with blind sockets or clear sockets?

If using clear sockets I suggest using some PVP glue on the printer bed. Not only to help adhesion, but also for a neater print of the socket outlines on the first layer. There was probably a PVP glue-stick supplied with the printer. A few dabs (with the bed cold), smeared out into a thin film with a damp sponge. One application will last for several prints:


View attachment 11593


cheers,

Martin.

Martin,

Yes, pleasantly surprised how easily the new profile loaded.

Blind sockets was selected - difference wasn't explained in the video! I'm assuming no problems will arise with fitting chairs? Would unticking the box to give clear sockets be a better idea?

A glue stick was included in the box, and will be used when I get into full production, at the moment new bed is holding prints very well.

Cheers,

Paul

 

[Martin Wynne]

Blind sockets was selected - difference wasn't explained in the video! I'm assuming no problems will arise with fitting chairs? Would unticking the box to give clear sockets be a better idea?

@Cransford @James Walters @Hayfield

Hi Paul,

This is an experimental project -- everything is constantly changing.

James Walters made the videos (if that is the one you mean) several months or even years ago. They are simply a snapshot in time of the state of the experiment at the time he made them -- and omitting much of the more detailed explanation, otherwise they wouldn't fit in 30 minutes. There have been numerous changes and developments since. I wish I could get this point across -- it's a constant battle of wits to keep explaining that the system is still a work-in-progress. And that just because there is something in a video or an old forum topic, it doesn't necessarily mean that it is still relevant or correct. Or that it will remain so.

Not least is the changeover in recent weeks after 25 years of publicly-available Templot to an open-source version compiled on a different compiler -- Templot5.

Also, there have been changes in the equipment world. The cost of laser-cutters has come down, and in the FDM world we now have the fast Klipper-based printers such as the Neptune 4. And also the textured PEI-coated printer beds. All the original work on FDM printing of timbering bases was done on glass beds.

The textured beds do not grip the thin outlines of the first layer very well, especially the small socket outlines if you have clear sockets, and also the connector clips. The result can be a nasty mess which can come loose and get tangled up as the extruder head moves around it. This can be mostly prevented by using the glue-stick. It doesn't happen on the older glass beds.

But the better way to get a clean first layer is to use blind sockets which do not have an outline on the first layer. This also makes it easier to build plug track in-situ on the baseboard -- the timbering bases can be glued in place without any fear of getting glue in the sockets.

The downside of blind sockets is that they need a slightly deeper timber thickness in order for the sockets to be deep enough to accommodate the chair plugs. It's also necessary to be a bit careful when snipping the chairs from the support pyramids to snip them close to the plug with no rough remains, to avoid them bottoming in the socket when being installed.

The blind sockets option has been available since the beginning of plug track, but it is only with the recent change to using a textured PEI bed that I have made much use of it. Unfortunately it is not possible to use a glass bed on the Neptune 4, the levelling system requires a metallic bed.

cheers,

Martin.

 

[Cransford]

@Cransford @James Walters @Hayfield

Hi Paul,

This is an experimental project -- everything is constantly changing.

James Walters made the videos (if that is the one you mean) several months or even years ago. They are simply a snapshot in time of the state of the experiment at the time he made them -- and omitting much of the more detailed explanation, otherwise they wouldn't fit in 30 minutes. There have been numerous changes and developments since. I wish I could get this point across -- it's a constant battle of wits to keep explaining that the system is still a work-in-progress. And that just because there is something in a video or an old forum topic, it doesn't necessarily mean that it is still relevant or correct. Or that it will remain so.

Not least is the changeover in recent weeks after 25 years of publicly-available Templot to an open-source version compiled on a different compiler -- Templot5.

Also, there have been changes in the equipment world. The cost of laser-cutters has come down, and in the FDM world we now have the fast Klipper-based printers such as the Neptune 4. And also the textured PEI-coated printer beds. All the original work on FDM printing of timbering bases was done on glass beds.

The textured beds do not grip the thin outlines of the first layer very well, especially the small socket outlines if you have clear sockets, and also the connector clips. The result can be a nasty mess which can come loose and get tangled up as the extruder head moves around it. This can be mostly prevented by using the glue-stick. It doesn't happen on the older glass beds.

But the better way to get a clean first layer is to use blind sockets which do not have an outline on the first layer. This also makes it easier to build plug track in-situ on the baseboard -- the timbering bases can be glued in place without any fear of getting glue in the sockets.

The downside of blind sockets is that they need a slightly deeper timber thickness in order for the sockets to be deep enough to accommodate the chair plugs. It's also necessary to be a bit careful when snipping the chairs from the support pyramids to snip them close to the plug with no rough remains, to avoid them bottoming in the socket when being installed.

The blind sockets option has been available since the beginning of plug track, but it is only with the recent change to using a textured PEI bed that I have made much use of it. Unfortunately it is not possible to use a glass bed on the Neptune 4, the levelling system requires a metallic bed.

cheers,

Martin.

Martin,

Many thanks for the expanded details, I've been following the Plug-Track story for some considerable time and have been amazed by the way it's leapt forward. You deserve a knighthood for services to every boys hobby at the very least!

Appreciating the differences betweenblind and open sockets, I'll probably opt for the open type (with use of the glue stick!) and I've been dabbling at FDM printing the layout's platform (it'll be in a number of parts so isn't due for a while).

So, once again thank you and now get off home early as it's Friday!

Cheers,

Paul

 

[Hayfield]

Martin,

Picture of second run if first raft, much better finish so will call that a success. Now on to printing some chairs for added decoration.

View attachment 11591

Enjoy an egg!

Cheers,

Paul

Paul

Probably teaching you to suck eggs, but printing diagonally you may get a whole turnout base to fit

John

 

[Cransford]

Paul

Probably teaching you to suck eggs, but printing diagonally you may get a whole turnout base to fit

John

John,

Small steps! I want to get plain track and connecting plugs/sockets mastered before getting into turnouts. Away for a few days now so back to the fray soon!

Cheers,

Paul