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topic: 1564Transmitting the throw
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posted: 16 Jul 2011 10:04

from:

Stephen Freeman
 
Sandbach - United Kingdom

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Hi,

I've been chewing the cud so to speak just recently over the various methods of operating turnouts.

By far the best electrical method is to my mind, some form of slow-motion mechanism. What I think puts people off (including me) though are 2 things cost and how much noise they generate.

It cannot be said that any of the readily available slow-motion motors are really that quiet (this may be OK in an exhibition setting but not at home). So that just leaves R/C servo motors and manual operation.

Whilst R/C Servo Motors are not totally silent they are as near to it as we are likely to get for the moment. Manual Control may not be suitable in every instance due to personal preference and location (yes I know about memory wire but not for me).

Both have the same issue though. That is, how to transmit the throw to the tiebar.

If you want to use a crank system that's fine - I've done that before. However the easiest method is to transmit the throw to tiebar direct, as proprietary track/point motor systems do.

I have therefore come up with a relatively simple design to do this for those wishing to use servo motors or manual methods, which I can supply at the fairly nominal cost of £2.00 . Details as usual on the website.

Of course you'd need to use a tiebar design that can be operated centrally :)



posted: 16 Jul 2011 13:31

from:

Roger Henry
 
Brisbane - Australia

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There a couple of pneumatic systems still on the market. I saw one a couple of years ago. It was certainly quiet, if you ignored the compressor chugging away in another room. No idea how you coax a 'bounce' out of it:-)
Roger,
Brisbane

posted: 19 Jul 2011 21:51

from:

Dellboy
 
Aylesford - United Kingdom

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Borg-Rail wrote:
I have therefore come up with a relatively simple design to do this for those wishing to use servo motors or manual methods, which I can supply at the fairly nominal cost of £2.00 . Details as usual on the website.

Of course you'd need to use a tiebar design that can be operated centrally :)

How about a bit more detail please. Your web page only shows a simple line drawing with no clue as to materials used or information on installation connection/fitting. I might be interested if I knew what exactly you are offering.

posted: 20 Jul 2011 04:54

from:

Stephen Freeman
 
Sandbach - United Kingdom

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Hi,
Well I did the line drawing first! So far I have made them from plastic, though I could make them from metal if you so wished (thinking about it, probably easier/quicker to do so in fact).

The actual wire used depends on the scale of course.
Installation - poke the operating arm up through a hole in your baseboard to engage in the tiebar (obviously need a hole in the tiebar or loop). You then need to fix the body to the underside of the baseboard. Glue might work well but 4 screws judiciously placed around the body and screwed into the baseboard will do the job. Don't forget to snip off the excess wire.

One end of the underbaseboard arm has a hole for connection to your means of operation, whilst the other end will operate a micro-switch (not supplied) if you need it.

I'll see if I can add a photo later today.

posted: 12 Dec 2011 10:47

from:

LSWRArt
 
Antibes - France

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Interesting idea? What do you need to operate R/C servo motors? Looking on the web it seems you normally use pulse width modulation in a model aircraft, so are you using a multi-channel aircraft controller, or is there a simpler solution, as you only need 2 positions? Also any thoughts on what size might be suitable for '0' gauge turnouts, as I guess much power is not needed in an aircraft or boat to move the control surfaces?

posted: 12 Dec 2011 11:00

from:

Stephen Freeman
 
Sandbach - United Kingdom

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Borg-Rail wrote:
Hi,
Well I did the line drawing first! So far I have made them from plastic, though I could make them from metal if you so wished (thinking about it, probably easier/quicker to do so in fact).

The actual wire used depends on the scale of course.
Installation - poke the operating arm up through a hole in your baseboard to engage in the tiebar (obviously need a hole in the tiebar or loop). You then need to fix the body to the underside of the baseboard. Glue might work well but 4 screws judiciously placed around the body and screwed into the baseboard will do the job. Don't forget to snip off the excess wire.

One end of the underbaseboard arm has a hole for connection to your means of operation, whilst the other end will operate a micro-switch (not supplied) if you need it.

I'll see if I can add a photo later today.

Attachment: attach_1268_1564_actuator.jpg 356

posted: 12 Dec 2011 11:05

from:

Stephen Freeman
 
Sandbach - United Kingdom

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Lots on this on RMweb again but basically you need a servo control board (various sources) and suitable servos (Towerpro 9g SG90s).

LSWRArt wrote:
Interesting idea? What do you need to operate R/C servo motors? Looking on the web it seems you normally use pulse width modulation in a model aircraft, so are you using a multi-channel aircraft controller, or is there a simpler solution, as you only need 2 positions? Also any thoughts on what size might be suitable for '0' gauge turnouts, as I guess much power is not needed in an aircraft or boat to move the control surfaces?




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