Templot Club Archive 2007-2020
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posted: 3 Jul 2013 07:17 from: SimonH
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Hello All I'm looking but perhaps not seeing amongst all the posts an answer to a couple of questions if I may. I model Tasmanian OO 14mm (3'6") and in the past have used copper clad sleepers but now want to go to timber sleepers, 1.6mm ply I think. Tassie railways were base plate and 3 dog spikes, but I can't find any manufacturers of such a thing. C&L do a base plate that's close? but still not quite there. Do any templot users know of any small manufacturers who may have such a thing. I'll be using code 70 flat bottom rail. I'm hoping that tucked away is a manufacturer of narrow gauge stuff. The second questions is about methods of building trackwork. In the past I have run a light bead of PVA down the centre of my templates, stuck the copper clad to the paper, built the track, and then soaked the template of the sleepers. As I am going to pre stain the sleepers, sticking ply in water to remove the template is probable not a good idea. Is there a message thread that may have various solutions please. Cheers Simon Handby |
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posted: 3 Jul 2013 08:28 from: John Arkell
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Hi Simon You may find what you need on Brassmasters website http://www.brassmasters.co.uk/track_details.htm See item P005 Regards John Arkell |
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posted: 3 Jul 2013 08:36 from: Alan Turner
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You could also try these: http://www.proto87.com/accurate-track.html Alan |
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posted: 3 Jul 2013 11:05 from: brianod
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Hi SimonCan not help you to source the parts but in terms of track construction, I pre-stain my ply sleepers with a spirit based stain and stick them to the template using a paper glue - Pritt Stick or similar. I use solder construction for the track and have had no problems with soaking the completed track template to remove the paper. Often the paper can be removed by simply spraying the completed template with water from the type of spray bottle that you would use to spray the leaves of household plants.Regards Brian o'Donovan | ||
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posted: 3 Jul 2013 12:05 from: GeoffJones
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Hi Simon Like Brian I use Pritt with both ply and PCB sleepers working in 2MM scale, so not too different in size from your 14mm gauge. The grip is not all that strong so the occasional sleeper does come loose but is easily refixed. Only a very light soaking in water is necessary to release the completed track. Beware the cheap Pritt lookalike products, most of them have a very poor grip indeed. Geoff |
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posted: 3 Jul 2013 21:37 from: Tony W
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Hi Simon. Another approach which I have used for many years is to use double sided sellotape about 6mm wide to hold the sleepers to the Template. One strip down the centre is sufficient. This can be gently peeled away from the completed track after construction. Tony W. |
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posted: 4 Jul 2013 02:19 from: SimonH
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Many thanks Don't think we've invented Pritt in Tasmania yet? Have to hunt around. So: can you gentlemen advise on glues you prefer to use? N-S rail to plastic base plate to ply. I haven't discounted having some etches done but then I'll be glueing N-S to brass to ply hopefully in one go. Is there a good glue for this application. If I go this way there will be no holding of rail to base plate mechanically so it will only be glue. Cheers Simon Handby |
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posted: 4 Jul 2013 10:08 from: Paul Boyd
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Hi SimonSo: can you gentlemen advise on glues you prefer to use? N-S rail to plastic base plate to ply. I haven't discounted having some etches done but then I'll be glueing N-S to brass to ply hopefully in one go. Is there a good glue for this application.I've had very good results with Loctite 435. I've used this to glue plastic slide chairs to N/S rail and ply timbers. Where I've subsequently needed to remove the slide chair, the glued remains need to be chiselled off... The usual couple of provisos - the surfaces need to be properly clean, and 435 isn't a gap filler so you need to have good mating surfaces. Neither should be a problem though. Oh, and keep the bottle in the fridge when not in use - it's not cheap and it's irritating (!) when 3/4 of the bottle goes off before you use it  I would have one reservation about all glued construction, and that's to do with rail expansion - make sure the sleepers/timbers can move as you're fixing them rigidly to rail which will move whether you want it to or not. I believe Tasmania can get mildly warm  Cheers |
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posted: 5 Jul 2013 18:43 from: Stephen Freeman
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Hi, Any chance of a protoype photo or two? I've got a few things for flatbottom in the pipeline but not I suspect, what you are looking for. They'd be in polyurethane resin when I do them, so it'd be a superglue job to fix them. |
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posted: 6 Jul 2013 01:04 from: SimonH
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Happy to send a photo. I can see how to send it to you alone but how do I upload into this topic. Cheers Simon |
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posted: 6 Jul 2013 08:06 from: Stephen Freeman
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Hi, As long as you own copyright you can load it into the gallery and link to it from there. Otherwise you can of course send it to me anyway. |
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posted: 6 Jul 2013 08:20 from: JFS
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Paul Boyd wrote: I would endorse everything Paul says here - with one addition. If you are going to glue the rails to the baseplates and to the sleeper, your rail should be in pieces no longer than, say 300 long (obviously governed by where your prototype had joints). Any longer than this and the joints will fail over time - no matter how they are made. Exponents of the "ply and rivet" method of track construction discovered this the hard way about 40 years ago. Those of us using "functional" plastic bullhead chairs don't have the worry as the rail will slide through the chairs as it expands / contracts (but we do have to stop it creeping!) and even then I would not go beyond about 500mm without a break in the rail. I wonder if there would be a way to allow the rails to slide through the baseplates - having to fit droppers / disguise joints etc every foot is a real pain as well as being a potential unreliability. Not sure how all the suggested source of baseplates work though... Just regarding building off templates - have you thought of sticking your Tempot printout straight to the baseboard and building in situ (with no underlay)? It worked for me and also for Jim S-W and Birmingham New Street is quite a test of track building methods - including flat bottom! Good luck, Howard |
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posted: 9 Jul 2013 08:34 from: Stephen Freeman
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Hi, Thanks for the photo Simon, you could add it to the Gallery, so others can see. I would think that it would be possible to use a baseplate with the rail actually spiked down rather than glued, I don't think that the C&L ST baseplates are what you need but that's your choice of course. As for sourcing spikes, that's the easy bit (cut down staples as used in O14n). If anybody is interested in all the various types of fixings for FB rail in the UK, follow the link on Colin Craigs website to MMRS website. |
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posted: 9 Jul 2013 09:15 from: SimonH
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Hello Howard The only problem sticking the template to the base board is that after pre colouring the sleepers I've still got the problem of painting out the template. I'm a bit of a spray can man I'm affraid so all that fiddly work is not an option. I do take on board your thoughts on track movement though. To be avoided at all costs I think. So maybe a plastic chair is the go. I did post the photo of the Tassie base plate in the gallery and thought thats how I got it to Borg Rail. I'll have to prctice a bit more. Cheers Simon |
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posted: 9 Jul 2013 09:37 from: Martin Wynne
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SimonH wrote: I did post the photo of the Tassie base plate in the gallery and thought that's how I got it to Borg Rail. I'll have to practice a bit more.Hi Simon, Yes you did. No need to practice more.  It's here: http://85a.co.uk/forum/gallery_view.php?user=95#gallery_top Martin. |
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posted: 9 Jul 2013 11:31 from: LSWRArt
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Hi Simon If you are still stuck trying to find some suitable chairs, have you thought of designing your own using free software such as Sketchup and then having them 3-D printed by Shapeways? It took me an evening to view the Sketchup tutorials and a couple of hours to create my first 3-D drawing of a chimney with conical cowl. The chair you need does not look very complicated to design. If you need any more info or links please mail me privately, as I have an article which will be printed in GOG Gazette in a few months time and I can probably extract some info from that. Regards, Arthur |
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posted: 9 Jul 2013 12:21 from: JFS
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Simon, Hmm, that looks like quite a tricky thing to replicate in 4mm! I wonder if it might be possible to do a three-piece etching - something like.... 1129_090553_170000000.png It should be possible to do it in such a way that they could be folded round the foot of the rail, then soldered up in such a way that they grip the rail yet still allow the rail to slide through the spikes. The obvious snag is that they would not be large!!! Just re colouring the template - I sprayed mine BEFORE sticking it down - but did it with a thin enough coat of paint that allowed the detail still to show through - you can see the effect here:- 1129_090601_450000000.jpg On the more complex bits, I also added a grey (acrylic) wash between the sleepers which toned down the template but did not flood over the timbers. gallery/1129/1129_031237_310000000.jpg After it is all ballasted, you can see nothing of the template anyway! gallery/1129/1129_031338_190000000.jpg Hope that helps a bit, Cheers, Howard. |
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| Last edited on 9 Jul 2013 13:00 by JFS |
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posted: 10 Jul 2013 09:06 from: SimonH
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Hello Howard and Arthur, Some good ideas both. I'm still comming to terms with the fact that what I'm trying to do is so small that it might not be worth it. My real goal was to have hand made track work sitting above the sleepers rather than a great dob of solder onto a copper clad strip. My wife is somewhat bemused by the whole thing of a 3mm x 2mm x 1mm bit of plastic being this important?? She may be right. Cheers Simon |
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posted: 11 Jul 2013 16:01 from: Richard_Jones
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Hi Simon, if you can't find what you want, you may be able to get Robert Kosmider - Steam and Things (http://www.steamandthings.com/) to make it for you - with the added advantage that as he is in Australia there won't be any import duty and less postal charges! Good luck Hoping to get out to Taz sometime in the next couple of years.... Richard |
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posted: 11 Jul 2013 21:52 from: SimonH
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You would always be welcome Richard. I dont know of any "Temploters" in Tassie, in fact I dont think I've ever met one. cheers Simon |
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