Templot Club Archive 2007-2020
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posted: 31 Dec 2014 16:29 from: Simon Dobson click the date to link to this post click member name to view archived images |
I have created the tandem in the attached box file. I'm quite pleased with it, but before I go and build it, would anyone please advise if there are any apparent "oops" in there? I do know that there is a slight overlap of wing rail and V in the centre, it is so slight that I did not see any reason to create another partial template to resolve it. I think the timbering is reasonable, but there is a significant angle on timber CR214X4-A relative to theFP and Blunt nose marks on the plan - nose of the middle crossing. To ensure that the chair would fit, should I use a bigger timber, or shove it backwards or... ? intended region / period is GW / 1930 or thereabouts. The smaller radius leads off to the coal stage ramp, the larger to the rest of the shed. Comments very welcome! Happy New Year to all Simon |
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| Attachment: attach_2028_2606_porth_dinllaen_engine_shed_version_4_tandem.box 281 | |||
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posted: 1 Jan 2015 08:47 from: Hayfield
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This is a guess as I dont have the knowledge or skill as some of the others but the wing rail on the first common crossing looks very short, perhaps moving the two turnouts apart from each other may cure this. On the other hand I could be very wrong | ||
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posted: 1 Jan 2015 09:40 from: Phil O
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Hi Simon I would agree with Hayfield that the wing rail is short and spreading the turnouts further apart would help. this would also help the timbering under those two crossings. As a general rule GW turnouts used EQUALIZED-INCREMENTAL timbering so the third crossing would have that and the timbering between No 2 and No 3 would change from square on to equalised incremental. See Mr Smiths book on GW switch and crossing practice Also in the book it is indicated that 12 ft switches are used on crossing angles from 1 in 6 1/2 to 1 in 8. HTH Phil |
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posted: 1 Jan 2015 09:59 from: Simon Dobson click the date to link to this post click member name to view archived images |
Thanks both. I don't have the book (I guess I should simply buy it!!!) so I'm grateful for the comment about equalised incremental sleepering, which is an easy change, I hope. What is not so easy is to elongate the blades - the layout is a classic quart in a pint pot, (please see link at http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/79052-porth-dinllaen-in-0/page-5#entry1723851 - actually the previous page but the RMWeb server isn't serving at the moment) Moving the crossings relative to one another would allow an increase in the wing rail length as suggested, but this is back to the track layout itself. Ideally, an extra foot between the lounge door and the end wall... In any case, I will make the wing rail as long as I can without fouling the flangeway of the middle road. Thanks again & HNY Simon |
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posted: 1 Jan 2015 10:35 from: Martin Wynne
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Hi Simon, There is no need to increase the wing rail length by much, but it does need a small amount of flare. Likewise there is no need to change the switch size for special formations such as this, if that is the only size which fits. GWR crossings often used 14" wide timbers for the "A" timber which makes it easier to fit the chairs on a skew. The long machined flare on the check rail looks unlikely for bullhead -- there is room to shorten that check rail quite a bit. regards, Martin. |
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posted: 1 Jan 2015 10:56 from: Simon Dobson click the date to link to this post click member name to view archived images |
Thanks Martin S |
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posted: 4 Jan 2015 22:28 from: Simon Dobson click the date to link to this post click member name to view archived images |
Built it. Photos and discussion at post 116 in http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/79052-porth-dinllaen-in-0/page-5#entry1728570 Comments particularly regarding securing timbers to the rails, and stretchers, are most welcome Best Simon |
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posted: 4 Jan 2015 23:17 from: Martin Wynne
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Simon Dobson wrote:Comments particularly regarding securing timbers to the rails, and stretchers, are most welcomeHi Simon, That's looking good.  The best solution is not to unstick it from the template, simply trim all round close to the timber ends. But for that to work reliably you need to print on paper thick enough to hold the timber spacings and be left in place under the ballast. I usually suggest 160gsm paper for printed templates, which is almost a thin card. Maybe in 7mm scale you could go even thicker, printer permitting. When sticking the template to the work board, stick it only outside the timbered area, so that after cutting through all round the timber ends it lifts clear. Double-stick tape works well for this. regards, Martin. |
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posted: 5 Jan 2015 20:53 from: Simon Dobson click the date to link to this post click member name to view archived images |
Thx S |
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