Templot Club Archive 2007-2020                             

topic: 920Turnout constuction
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posted: 9 Aug 2009 15:50

from:

Len Cattley
 
Bracknell - United Kingdom

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Hi all just started turnout construction (making up the crossing Vee) and it occured to me that I don't know where you gauge the Vee from. Do you gauge the Vee from the straight stock rail or do you fix the Vee then gauge the straight stock rail from that? Also what gauges do you use, I have a set of Joe Brook Smith P4 gauges? Iv'e uploaded 2140_091045_590000000.jpg140_091045_590000000.jpg pics so140_091048_450000000.jpg140_091048_450000000.jpg you can see where I am at the moment.
Regards

Len Cattley

posted: 9 Aug 2009 18:33

from:

Paul Boyd
 
Loughborough - United Kingdom

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Hi Len

Conventional wisdom is to start from the straight stock rail, but in this case I might be tempted to work outwards from the centre.  I mainly use three-point gauges, but do also use roller gauges on straight track.  Also, a check rail gauge is essential - check rails are gauged from the crossing, not the adjacent stock rail.

As an aside, is the Templot plan going to form part of your track base?  The reason for asking is that you'll never get the formation off that double-sided tape!

Cheer
Last edited on 9 Aug 2009 18:33 by Paul Boyd
posted: 9 Aug 2009 18:54

from:

Len Cattley
 
Bracknell - United Kingdom

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Paul Boyd wrote:
Hi Len

Conventional wisdom is to start from the straight stock rail, but in this case I might be tempted to work outwards from the centre.  I mainly use three-point gauges, but do also use roller gauges on straight track.  Also, a check rail gauge is essential - check rails are gauged from the crossing, not the adjacent stock rail.

As an aside, is the Templot plan going to form part of your track base?  The reason for asking is that you'll never get the formation off that double-sided tape!

Cheer
Thanks for the reply Paul,
This probably is a daft question, what does a check rail gauge look like as I have several? I will possibly use the Templot plan as I think it's easer that way.
Cheers

Len

posted: 9 Aug 2009 19:05

from:

Nigel Brown
 
 

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Len

Suggest using whatever seems the most appropriate to you under the circumstances, don't think it matters a lot. Personally I start with the V.

cheers
Nigel

posted: 9 Aug 2009 19:09

from:

Martin Wynne
 
West Of The Severn - United Kingdom

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Len Cattley wrote:
This probably is a daft question, what does a check rail gauge look like as I have several?
Hi Len,

Usually like a roller gauge, but shorter than a track gauge tool. There is a flat f at one end so that you can gauge against the vee. Here's the check gauge tool for 00-SF:

2_160724_030000000.png2_160724_030000000.png

v is the vee;  w is the wing rail;  c is the check rail;  r is the running rail. Note that the check gauge tool engages v and c only, and is clear of w and r.

This is the finished tool:

00sf_check_gauge1.jpg00sf_check_gauge1.jpg

00sf_check_gauge2.jpg00sf_check_gauge2.jpg

regards,

Martin.

posted: 9 Aug 2009 19:16

from:

Paul Boyd
 
Loughborough - United Kingdom

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Hi Len

The attached photo shows a check gauge on my test track.  The right hand "ring" has a flat to sit on top of the adjacent rails, and you can see how the check rail is held in the two left hand rings, with the third ring up against the crossing nose.

OK - inserting an image from the gallery didn't work - try this:

check_sm.jpgcheck_sm.jpg
Last edited on 9 Aug 2009 19:18 by Paul Boyd
posted: 9 Aug 2009 19:26

from:

Martin Wynne
 
West Of The Severn - United Kingdom

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Len Cattley wrote:
Do you gauge the Vee from the straight stock rail or do you fix the Vee then gauge the straight stock rail from that?
Hi Len,

For a crossover such as this, I suggest working across from one side:

1. First stock rail, aligned accurately over the template.

2. First vee, gauged from the stock rail.

3. Second vee, gauged from the first vee. Take care to align the point rail accurately over the template, otherwise your double-track spacing will be wrong.

However, accurate gauging is more important than exact track spacing. Use the metal gauge tools for gauging, and the track spacing can be set by eye from the template.

4. Second stock rail, gauged from the vee.

regards,

Martin.

posted: 9 Aug 2009 19:31

from:

Martin Wynne
 
West Of The Severn - United Kingdom

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Paul Boyd wrote:
OK - inserting an image from the gallery didn't work - try this:
Hi Paul,

Excellent pic. :thumb:

But it's showing in the Image Gallery. What didn't work? What message did you receive? How long did you wait for the upload?

regards,

Martin.

posted: 9 Aug 2009 19:37

from:

Len Cattley
 
Bracknell - United Kingdom

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Hi Martin,
I have this one,140_091435_290000000.jpg140_091435_290000000.jpg
Sorry about the quality of the picture I only have a compact camera.
Kind regards

Len

posted: 9 Aug 2009 19:48

from:

Len Cattley
 
Bracknell - United Kingdom

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Martin Wynne wrote:
Len Cattley wrote:
Do you gauge the Vee from the straight stock rail or do you fix the Vee then gauge the straight stock rail from that?
Hi Len,

For a crossover such as this, I suggest working across from one side:

1. First stock rail, aligned accurately over the template.

2. First vee, gauged from the stock rail.

3. Second vee, gauged from the first vee. Take care to align the point rail accurately over the template, otherwise your double-track spacing will be wrong.

However, accurate gauging is more important than exact track spacing. Use the metal gauge tools for gauging, and the track spacing can be set by eye from the template.

4. Second stock rail, gauged from the vee.

regards,

Martin.
Thanks Martin that's a great help.
regards

Len

posted: 9 Aug 2009 21:00

from:

GeoffJones
 
Shropshire - United Kingdom

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Paul Boyd wrote:
As an aside, is the Templot plan going to form part of your track base?  The reason for asking is that you'll never get the formation off that double-sided tape!
Working in 2mm scale, where uninstalled pieces of track are seriously fragile, I stick the sleepers to the templates with Pritt. This is better than double sided tape as it is thinner, is not sensitive to heat like double sided, which can soften and move under the soldering iron, and it is water soluble, so can be released with a good soak.

Most tape adhesives are soluble in white spirit so can be released with that. 

Geoff

posted: 9 Aug 2009 21:06

from:

Paul Boyd
 
Loughborough - United Kingdom

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Hi Martin
But it's showing in the Image Gallery. What didn't work? What message did you receive? How long did you wait for the upload?
The upload seemed to work, but although I clicked on the "Insert existing image from Gallery" button, my post just had Img"> where the image should have been.  I've just inserted it again, and we'll see what happens...

105_091415_490000000.jpg105_091415_490000000.jpg

posted: 9 Aug 2009 21:16

from:

Martin Wynne
 
West Of The Severn - United Kingdom

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Paul Boyd wrote:
The upload seemed to work, but although I clicked on the "Insert existing image from Gallery" button, my post just had Img">
Hi Paul,

Sorry about that, and thanks for jogging my memory. :)

It's a known bug, which happens if your first ever upload is via the message editor button. If you make your first upload via the main upload link, you don't see the problem. I thought I had cured it, but obviously not. :(

I will have another look at the code. It will be something blindingly obvious when I find it! :?

Thanks again,

Martin.

posted: 9 Aug 2009 22:28

from:

allanferguson
 
Fife - United Kingdom

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Paul Boyd wrote:
Hi Len


.....As an aside, is the Templot plan going to form part of your track base?  The reason for asking is that you'll never get the formation off that double-sided tape!....

Cheer


I've  found  that  my  wife's  hair  drier  (used  with  consent!)  will  heat  up  the  tape  sufficiently  to  enable  it  to  be  peeled  off.

Allan  Ferguson



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