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TEMPLOT 3D PLUG TRACK - To get up to speed with this experimental project click here.   To watch an introductory video click here.   See the User Guide at Bexhill West.

  • The Plug Track functions are experimental and still being developed. Some of the earlier pages of this topic are now out-of-date.

    For an updated overview of this project see this topic.   For some practical modelling aspects of using Plug Track see Building 3D Track.

    The assumption is that you have your own machines on which to experiment, or helpful friends with machines. Please do not send Templot files to commercial laser cutting or 3D printing firms while this project is still experimental, because the results are unpredictable and possibly wasteful.

    Some pages of this and other topics include contributions from members who are creating and posting their own CAD designs for 3D printing and laser-cutting. Do not confuse them with Templot's own exported CAD files. All files derived from Templot are © Martin Wynne.
  • The Plug Track functions are experimental and still being developed.

    For an updated overview of this project see this topic.   For some practical modelling aspects of using Plug Track see Building 3D Track.

    The assumption is that you have your own machines on which to experiment, or helpful friends with machines. Please do not send Templot files to commercial laser cutting or 3D printing firms while this project is still experimental, because the results are unpredictable and possibly wasteful.

    Some pages of this and other topics include contributions from members who are creating and posting their own CAD designs for 3D printing and laser-cutting. Do not confuse them with Templot's own exported CAD files. All files derived from Templot are © Martin Wynne.

Track building tools and tips

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Martin Wynne

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Enjoy using Templot?
Thanks.

Please do not send requests for help direct to me via email.

Post your questions on the forum where everyone can see them and add
helpful replies.
For good running the top of the nose is finally rounded over and taken down a few thou below the wing rail. This is best done in situ to blend in with the splice rail -- using needle files, abrasive paper, etc., or a fine flap wheel in a Dremel tool.
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My only remaining miniature flap wheel being well past its use-by date, I have just obtained a fresh supply:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07XY7MN7G

50 assorted miniature flap wheels and 5 screw-in 3mm dia. mandrels.

Which should be enough to keep me going. :)

They are about 12mm dia. and 9mm long.

Useful for lots of modelling jobs, and more controllable than a grinding wheel. But the Dremel-style tool kits usually come with a couple of 80-grit flap wheels -- which are too coarse for fine finishing of rail edges in 4mm/ft scale. These 600-grit wheels are plenty coarse enough for blending over the nose of vees, the top edge of switch blades, etc. In fact you can easily over-do it with a new one -- it's a good idea to take the initial edge off it on something less critical.

p.s. the grit-size is impossible to identify once you have removed the wrapper from each one. Mark the end of it in some way before removing the wrapper. I use a secret code -- 6 dots = 600 grit. :) Remember to screw them onto the mandrel the right way round!

Martin.
 
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