What printer should I get ?

[Martin Wynne]

Hi Martin, Should I be able to download and load this profile file into my Cura software and utilise? I have tried changing the extension to a zip and decompressing which gives me 2 files but these do not seem to be recognised within the Cura profile import dialogue box.

@Terry Downes

hi terry,

you need:

1. full downloaded version of cura. not necessarily a cut-down version bundled with a printer.

2. you must set up a custom printer first. you will be very lucky if cura lets you install a custom profile for any existing printer, or for any printer known to cura. there must be a way round this, but i haven't been able to find how.

but it's not difficult to set up a custom printer, and copy the machine settings from the printer which you do have.

it's all in the old codgers video last night, now online.

you don't need to zip it or split it into different files? i don't understand why folks keep trying to make things difficult. the file has the extension .curaprofile and it will import directly. but only into custom printer. and probably only into a full version of cura.

you can install a new full version alongside an old bundled version and still use either.

in addition to the video i covered it in a post with Phil G a few weeks ago.

cheers,

martin.

 

[Martin Wynne]

I decided to tempt fate and use old prototype chairs

@Hayfield

hi john,

are those some 12-month old press-fit chairs? in theory they shouldn't fit in the clip-fit sockets you just printed. they might be too tight or they might be too loose. the design and clearance dimensions have changed several times in 12 months experimental.

please don't post anywhere saying they didn't fit very well. it would be a surprise if they did.

cheers,

martin.

 

[Hayfield]

@Hayfield

hi john,

are those some 12-month old press-fit chairs? in theory they shouldn't fit in the clip-fit sockets you just printed. they might be too tight or they might be too loose. the design and clearance dimensions have changed several times in 12 months experimental.

please don't post anywhere saying they didn't fit very well. it would be a surprise if they did.

cheers,

martin.

I thought I covered this by saying they are an old prototype, I will edit my posts

John

 

[Hayfield]

Martin

Regarding files as I said I now buy Vallorbe files, I find they are a couple of £'s dearer than the likes of Draper tools but much better

For finishing the rails I use 150mm Smooth (I also have 2nd cut) plus a range of cheap needle files

For the Vee and switch jigs I use 250mm fine cut

For convenience I use Axminister tools

https://www.axminstertools.com/hand...gth=25584,25587,25590,25592&manufacturer=3020

I have learnt to keep my new files away from whitemetal, plus I now have a file card as the PLA+ needs brushing away

 

[Phil O]

Hi John,

For filing whitemetal, I use nail emery boards, they're cheap as chips compared to files and you can cut bits off to get into tight spots.

 

[Hayfield]

Whilst not very difficult for most I have now finally produced a file to print the heal of my EM gauge 1-6 turnout

As I am printing a Vee filing jig and the card is in my printer, I cannot either download the file to the card or print it, so I will have to wait till the morning to see if I am successful

I must order another card and perhaps another reel of filament. Martin thank you for being so patient, looking back at the video, what hurt most you head or arm?

 

[Martin Wynne]

@Hayfield

hi John

Whoah! You have made a mistake! You have sliced a timbering base with the profile settings intended for filing jigs. It will print much faster than the first A switch part, and the quality will be very poor.

Change to the bricks profile in the drop-down and slice again.

So much to think about!

martin.

 

[Phil O]

Martin,

I will be around from 7pm tomorrow evening, if wanted.

 

[Hayfield]

Oh well I nearly got there

I nearly did it myself, so I am quite happy. Plus I remembered how to change the settings back to the track

The jig is about 73% printed

As for a spare TF card any of these worth buying? is 32 gig enough please

John

 

[James Walters]

This is great John, lovely to see.
I'd have thought 32gig would be more than enough.

 

[Martin Wynne]

Oh well I nearly got there

View attachment 7785

I nearly did it myself, so I am quite happy. Plus I remembered how to change the settings back to the track

View attachment 7786

The jig is about 73% printed

As for a spare TF card any of these worth buying? is 32 gig enough please

John

@Hayfield

hi john

jig looking good!

32GB is plenty enough. These are the ones I use:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B06XWMQ81P

they come in an adaptor for SD card slots. you need to slide it out of the adaptor with your thumbnail. you don't need the adaptor

cheers,

martin.

 

[Hayfield]

@Hayfield

hi john

jig looking good!

32GB is plenty enough. These are the ones I use:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B06XWMQ81P

they come in an adaptor for SD card slots. you need to slide it out of the adaptor with your thumbnail. you don't need the adaptor

cheers,

martin.

Thank you, just ordered one

The jig is up to 96%

I am hoping this one is correct

John

 

[Phil G]

Hi John,
16Gb is more than enough, however these days its likely easier to get 32GB which will certainly work. I would not go any bigger, as too many files on the same SD can make it hard to find the right one easily.
Cheers
Phil,

 

[Phil G]

So for now all plug track (and other Templot stuff) replies from me will be in Zoom meetings only. The unedited recordings will be available soon afterwards (to Templot Club logged-in members only).

Hi Martin,
excellent idea, I think these scruff videos could built up into a fantastic refence library. Count me in, I am just getting over Covid, but can do a zoom
cheers
Phil

 

[Martin Wynne]

I am hoping this one is correct

hi john,

well it isn't the part of an A-6 turnout? It will take a long time to print -- check it is what you want before starting.

martin.

 

[Martin Wynne]

Hi Martin,
excellent idea, I think these scruff videos could built up into a fantastic refence library. Count me in, I am just getting over Covid, but can do a zoom
cheers
Phil

ok. tomorrow 15th Nov 8pm UK time 20:00 UTC.

first stop is to do the parallel-wing crossover.

gasmen permitting. they are replacing the gas pipe to my house tomorrow. should be finished by 8pm.

martin.

 

[Phil O]

Martin,

If they're like the gasmen here, they'll be packed up and on their way home by 3.30 pm, if not earlier.

PS, looking forward to tomorrow evening.

 

[Hayfield]

I see on the previous attempt I failed to clear the box and added a second turnout base

I hope its 3rd time lucky

John

 

[Hayfield]

I have tried to design a 7mm scale track base, which seemed to be going well, but somehow either during making or after transferring to a STL file I have lost the sockets, so after repairing the file there are no sockets. What part of the process have I missed

 

[Martin Wynne]

@Hayfield

hi john,

did you switch on experimental chairing for the template?

if you didn't you will need to start again from the beginning and store it.

if you did, it may be that you have two duplicated templates in your storage box. that won't work.

if you come on zoom right now i will sort it out for you.

cheers,

martin.

 

[KHC1]

Hi Martin I hope your shoulder is easing a bit now. You mentioned to John that he was using a track profile on Cura instead of a brick profile. I have looked to see if I can find these profiles but to no avail. For track all I have added is a brim are there other items I need to change and keep for both profiles.

Keith

 

[Martin Wynne]

Hi Martin I hope your shoulder is easing a bit now. You mentioned to John that he was using a track profile on Cura instead of a brick profile. I have looked to see if I can find these profiles but to no avail. For track all I have added is a brim are there other items I need to change and keep for both profiles.

Keith

@KHC1

hi keith,

you are unlikely to get good results with ANY of the existing settings or profiles provided with an FDM printer.

for best results i suggest you use the profiles which I posted for John recently while we were doing a Zoom meeting.

the profiles are posted here:

https://85a.uk/templot/club/index.php?threads/what-printer-should-i-get.733/post-9029

however, it is unlikely cura will accept those profiles for any existing printer. the intention is that you create a custom printer for the purpose of printing plug track. it is all in the zoom meeting:

the recording is online at:

https://85a.uk/templot/club/index.php?threads/scruff-zoom-recordings.643/post-9035

it is a battle of wits to stop folks jumping ahead of me. my shoulder is going to take weeks to recover and the most painful task is typing on the computer. so i am going to stop now and try to do it all in zoom meetings. the next one is at 8pm uk tonight. i can't type any more, sorry.

p.s. you don't need a brim

martin.

 

[Martin Wynne]

@KHC1

p.s. keith,

you probably need to download a full latest version of cura and NOT use a cut-down version bundled with a printer.

it was all in the zoom meeting.

martin.

 

[KHC1]

Thanks Martin I use the full version of Cura as well as Pursa. Will have a look at the zoom meeting later.

Keith

 

[Hayfield]

Nearly all my own work, but I somehow managed to get Cura in a twist (I forgot to clear the build plate) testing Martins Patience

The B6 turnout base (with old style/early chairs)

The other area I am interested in is 7mm scale, managed to finish the common crossing section after a couple of false starts (saved it twice which filled in all the holes). Every day is certainly a school day.

 

[Hayfield]

Following on from the zoom meting as far as the software is concerned, nothing has changed. My desk top is a bit old though updated software wise 3 years ago, but it has always had its own quirks. I am considering whether to buy a new laptop for 3D printing and when away or replace the desk top. Please note the computer issues I have are down to my computer being temperamental. If only my computer worked as well as the Templot program and the printer both of which are first class

Anyway I have changed the build plate to a glass one using the shiny side with some glue, I have resolved the X axis simply by changing the position of the glass

I have printed off two test pieces using the file you set up, a third print is under way as I type this. each print I have adjusted the height as we did a few days ago

Position 1st 2nd

1 .53 .46
2 .37 .36
3 .30 .32
4 .49 .39

As I said a third print is under way

These test prints will be fine to use on the layout, and the latest two prints are better than the ones we first printed, much less stringing and I have not altered the temperature

 

[Martin Wynne]

@Hayfield

hi john,

how many clips?

i think you need to reduce those measurements a bit by adjusting the wheels.

Zoom live now to discuss it.

martin.

 

[Martin Wynne]

Zoom live now to discuss it.

No-one joined me, so now closed.

More at 8pm tonight.

martin.

 

[Phil O]

Martin, my apologies for tonight, it's a club night. Hopefully I can catch up on the zoom meeting, if it goes ahead.

 

[Hayfield]

No-one joined me, so now closed.

More at 8pm tonight.

martin.

Sorry I went out straight out after posting, bolts for jigs and computer hunting

The third print

1 0,39
2 0.35
3 0.38
4 0.36

Plate centered to within 1mm on the X axis

Sleeper printing thickness'
1 3.15 - 3.17
2 3.09 - 3.08
3 3.04 - 3.05

See you later

 

[Martin Wynne]

@James Walters @Hayfield

following the £90 Alkaid resin printer, i was wondering what very-low-cost FDM printer might be out there.

in the zoom meeting last night:

https://85a.uk/templot/club/index.php?threads/scruff-zoom-recordings.643/post-9127

we were seeing what John could fit in the 180mm x 180mm build area of his new Kingroon printer. the answer was rather more than you might think.

this one is even smaller at 165mm x 165mm, and the spec doesn't match the Kingroon. but it is currently available at only £127 black friday price on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0BYYSPWG4

and probably less if you shop around.

i'm not recommending it, because i haven't got one. but on paper it looks ok, and the reviews are mostly favourable, and 165mm x 165mm is just about enough to get started in 4mm/ft for single turnouts rather than full track plans.

with the Alkaid at £90 and that one at £127 you could get started with full plug track capability for not much more than £200

you also need some filament and resin of course, but those come out of the materials budget which you might otherwise be spending on plastic chairs or copper-clad or whatever.

martin.

 

[Michael Woods]

Plug Track express in S Scale

 

[Hayfield]

First long print, a complete A6 turnout, had a bit of a false start as insufficient glue on the build plate, rather than spreading it with a damp cloth I must have wiped too much off

Using the 185 degree nozzle setting but as you can see it has made little or no difference to the stringing.

Still a good test as I am going out for a bit and now as its working all on its own I am redundant in this part of the process

 

[Martin Wynne]

ather than spreading it with a damp cloth I must have wiped too much off

@Hayfield

hi john,

how can i describe in words and pictures how damp a sponge is?

it needs to be only very slightly damp.

1. wait for the glass to cool down.

2. under cover of darkness, acquire one of these from the kitchen:

3. wet it under the tap.

4. squeeze it as dry as you can in your fist.

5. wrap it in a bit of kitchen roll paper and squeeze it drier still.

6. make 3 or 4 dabs with the glue stick on the build plate.

7. using the soft side of the sponge, smear them out into a thin film all over.

8. get it as even as you can by smearing several times in all directions. you should be able to see it as a thin even film.

9. if you touch it you should be able to detect some slight stickiness.

10. as the build plate heats up it will dry out and not feel sticky. but the hot filament will stick to it just fine.

it's not always necessary to apply glue every time. if the first print comes free easily as it cools down, you can usually do another print on the same dried glue.

the rough side of the sponge can be used to clean the plate when necessary.

i have never tried the textured side of the glass, which has some sort of coating on it. presumably it is intended to work without needing glue. but if the print sticks too firmly, it's not clear how you would get a scraper under it without damaging the coating.

you might like to try it, and report your results?

all my other glass beds are plain glass both sides.

p.s. you seem to have done very well with your levelling. it's a good idea to mark one corner of the glass with a permanent marker so that you always replace it the same way round, just in case the glass varies in thickness a fraction.

cheers,

martin.

 

[Charles Orr]

Just for Information
This is the EMB-6-2 brick printed on my Prusa Mk3S
I've used a standard PLA + profile in Prusa Slicer and it took just over an hour.

Charles

 

[Martin Wynne]

@Charles Orr

hi Charles,

presumably that is the underside of the brick?

i don't understand how it could be printed in only an hour? what is the finished thickness? what layer height are you using? do the clip-fit chairs clip cleanly into place?

cheers,

martin.

 

[Steve_Cornford]

Hi Martin,
Having watched the old_codgers scruff video, it tipped me over the edge and in a moment of weakness I have ordered a Kingroon KPS3 pro s1 machine!
Steve

 

[Charles Orr]

@Charles Orr

hi Charles,

presumably that is the underside of the brick?

i don't understand how it could be printed in only an hour? what is the finished thickness? what layer height are you using? do the clip-fit chairs clip cleanly into place?

cheers,

martin.

Hi Martin,
No, that's the top of the brick. It's 3.2 mm high. Layer height is 0.2mm.
I've not printed any chairs yet.
I'll let you know when I have
Charles

 

[Martin Wynne]

Hi Martin,
Having watched the old_codgers scruff video, it tipped me over the edge and in a moment of weakness I have ordered a Kingroon KPS3 pro s1 machine!
Steve

@Steve_Cornford

hi Steve,

welcome to the club.

where is yours coming from, and was any delivery time specified?

i ordered mine from the USA warehouse on 4th November and so far i have heard nothing. apart from the order confirmation email. see part 2 of my post:

https://85a.uk/templot/club/index.php?threads/what-printer-should-i-get.733/post-8849

i see that the EU warehouse is now included on the order page -- it wasn't when i ordered.

if i hear nothing this week i think i need to chase it up. i've had rather an eventful time since then, and if it arrived now it would be a struggle to get it out of the box, let alone set it up!

cheers,

martin.

 

[Martin Wynne]

Hi Martin,
No, that's the top of the brick. It's 3.2 mm high. Layer height is 0.2mm.
I've not printed any chairs yet.
I'll let you know when I have
Charles

@Charles Orr

thanks Charles. it must be the camera, because i can't see any timber outlines or soleplate, etc. just the timber flanges.

cheers,

martin.