Refining Plug Track printing

[LittleWestern]

Hi all,

So I have finally started to dabble into 3d printing trackwork, the aim of which is to completely change how I and a friend our layouts as this is fascinating stuff!
Following the fantastic video provided by James @bexhillwest I was able to print an FDM timbered section of track and accompanying chairs (without keys). However I experienced to unforseen issues with the first few prints and wanted to get some feedback on improving them.

Firstly, the FDM timber bases, The elephants footing on them is a little too much and I have begun making changes to slicing profiles to combat it but wanted to see how others have tackled it. We are using the Anycubic Kobra Neo which printing other things, did well, but when attempting to plug chairs they don't seem to profile correctly... Tinkering needed for sure!

As for the chairs themselves, following James' video pretty closely and using the Geetech Alkaid the detail is fantasic! but the only issue we have found so far is the slot for keys is way too smal once washed and cured. The keys themselves are perfect. I'm not fussed if I have to slightly widen them to fit, but I was under the impression it should be a tight fit. Is ther a setting I should adjust to combat this?
I can't really post photos as you can imagine the slot is the size of a fly's unmentionables. But I hope you all understand
When I have access to the printers etc I will add screenshots of current profile settings.

(I understand this is probably an already talked about topic, but not sure on the 1000+ posts where to start! )

Many thanks

 

[Martin Wynne]

Firstly, the FDM timber bases, The elephants footing on them is a little too much and I have begun making changes to slicing profiles to combat it but wanted to see how others have tackled it. We are using the Anycubic Kobra Neo which printing other things, did well, but when attempting to plug chairs they don't seem to profile correctly... Tinkering needed for sure!

@LittleWestern @gavin @James Walters

Hi,

For FDM printing of plug track bases you will generally get poor results if you use any of the profiles or settings supplied with the printer.

We have been using the latest Cura 5.6.0 slicer (not one supplied with the printer), with a custom printer setting (not any printer setting supplied with Cura) and custom printing profiles. The files have been posted here and I will try to get a summary done soon, see the recent posts in the Kingroon topic. To avoid excessive elephant's foot, set the levelling using a perimeter priming run, as explained in the Kingroon topic and in ZOOM meetings. A very slight elephant's foot is beneficial to ensure constant timber thickness.

See: https://85a.uk/templot/club/index.php?threads/3d-printer-kingroon-kp3s-pro-s1.850/post-10318

The above applies to Marlin-based printers. For the high-speed Klipper-based printers, see:

https://85a.uk/templot/club/index.php?threads/3d-printers-fun-with-fdm-printers-klipper-based.873/

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As for the chairs themselves, following James' video pretty closely and using the Geeetech Alkaid the detail is fantastic! but the only issue we have found so far is the slot for keys is way too small once washed and cured.

For the Alkaid printer, again I have not used the exposure settings supplied with the printer, but those for the Mars2 of which the Alkaid is a clone. For the loose jaw slots, it is important to use vigorous plunge washing. Otherwise there will be residual resin in the tiny slots which will make it difficult to fit the jaw pins. The above applies to the Anycubic Water-wash V2 ABS-Like resin. Results with other resins may need trial and error.

I have explained all this stuff numerous times on here and elsewhere, but I admit not yet summarised in one handy place -- primarily because the details are constantly changing in this experimental project. I will try to get that done soon, but at present I am concentrating on getting the latest program update 244a finished and released. There is a deadline of Scaleforum in September approaching for which a lot of development work is still needed, not least the K-crossings.

p.s. for scales smaller than 4mm/ft you may need to modify the above by trial and error.

cheers,

Martin.

 

[LittleWestern]

@Martin Wynne, a god send you are, the effort and time you have put into Templot is insane and highly appreciated! Really looking forward to future updates. I have only just begun getting my hands on this 3D printing malarkey so going over topic after topic multiple times was bound to daze and confuse me. I should start taking notes of things externally based on these topics.

I understand this topic is pretty much a repeat of other content, but there is so much and I have tried for hours on end to read through and come up with something I just end up getting lost and confused and lose interest in anything for the net few hours.

I will have a dedicated read of that thread and go from there and report back!

Much appreciated,
James.

 

[Steve_Cornford]

Hi James,
Some questions for you.
What gauge are you using?
What resin are you using?
What Fdm filament are you using?
Steve

 

[LittleWestern]

Hi @Steve_Cornford,

4mm OO.
Sunlu Standard+ Grey Resin and Creality 1.75mm ST-PLA ( could not locally source any PLA+

Thanks,
James