3D printers - fun with FDM printers (Marlin-based)

[Martin Wynne]

Hi Martin,
It is several degrees out.
In order to get the right hand side of the bed up to the extruder nozzle I will need to cut another couple of mm off the z-axis limit screw as it is bottomed in the hole,
Then I fear that the left hand yellow screws would need to be done right up against the springs so that there would be no give in the bed!
I have emailed Altwaylab using their contact form.

The glass bed only had protective film on one side (the coated side) which I have removed. I am using it upside down.
The clips are correctly fitted.


I note that I am not the only person to have had this problem, see:-

https://www.fabbaloo.com/news/hands-on-with-the-kingroon-kp3s-pro-s1-part-2

pity they didn't document the corrective steps!


Time for a spot of lunch before I go any further.
It is probalbly my fault as I scrambled my eggs this morning!
Steve

@Steve_Cornford

Hi Steve,

Sorry to hear you have run into a problem.

To adjust the X-arm square, I think you need to slack off and re-tighten these 4 screws:

I also found this truly dreadful review of the Kingroon printer, which bears no relation to the machine I received:

https://medium.com/@mrginger/the-ki...e-little-3d-printer-that-couldnt-e57e9cf913b5

but it does have the X-arm issue.

Reading it, I think "Mr.Ginger" must have received a factory reject, or an apprentice test piece, or some such. Maybe a 3rd-party clone.

It does illustrate that web reviews are meaningless -- every good one is cancelled out by a bad one. The only way to find out about anything is to get one and see for yourself.

cheers,

Martin.

 

[Steve_Cornford]

Hi Martin,
Thanks for that.
After a refreshing lunch of home made Minestrone soup and a slice of home made beetroot quiche, i took the decision to cut another couple of mm off the z-axis limit screw.
This meant that I could get it to screw down a bit further, and it allowed me to level the bed using your manual method.
It is still not perfect as ne has to have the left hand yellow screws down up fairly tight and the right hand ones fairly loose, but not too loose. There stil is a couple of mm of screw projecting from the bottom of the yellow nuts.

I think you are right about those 4 screws on the x-arm, but I will leave them be until i get a response from Altway.

Now I need to search for the video/instructions for measuring the perimeter fence etc.

Everything takes much longer than you think, but its best not to rush at our age.

Thanks for your help and encouragement.

Now I need to put the toys away and make the supper before the boss gets home.
Steve

 

[Martin Wynne]

@Steve_Cornford

Hi Steve,

How are you getting on with the Kingroon? After the home made soup and the home made quiche, do you now have some home made track?

Any reply from Altway? I can confirm that those 4 screws allow the X-arm to be adjusted. In fact on mine I have removed the countersunk screws and replaced them with M4 x 6mm pan-head screws and spring washers. These can be tightened properly with a screwdriver instead of the tiddly chinese allen keys.

I originally assembled and set up my Pro S1 as soon as it arrived in early December (with one arm in a sling ). I did a few tests then using my usual settings and the results were excellent, as I expected. I hadn't used it since.

Yesterday I set it going again, and the results were awful. Bad stringing through the sockets, with a lot of cobwebs everywhere. Using the same printer, same profile settings, same reel of filament (JAYO rustic grey), same test STL file.

The only explanation I can think of is increased moisture content in the filament after the recent wet weather. Any steam space in the nozzle is likely to make the retraction less effective. I had kept the reel of filament in a plastic bag, but not sealed up with a sachet of silica gel. There may be a lesson there for the future.

The basic problem is that the slicer combing algorithm, which should move the head around the sockets in a travel move, is unable to cope with the thin socket walls in plug track. So it jumps straight across the sockets instead, leaving a string of oozing filament in its wake. Sharply retracting the filament before moving is intended to prevent that.

After much messing about without success, and then a boiled egg for lunch, I decided to do a U-turn on the retraction. Instead of aggressively fast I tried it set very slow. The idea being that this causes the extruder head to stop moving for a second or two while the filament retracts, allowing time for the nozzle to stop oozing before it moves off again across open space. I tried 8mm retraction at 5mm/sec.

I expected that to leave blobs in places where it stopped, but in fact the results are excellent. Some of the cleanest FDM printing I have done, with no stringing at all. The downside is that it makes FDM printing even slower, about 15 minutes per sleeper in 4mm/ft scale instead of the previous 10 minutes (with ironing enabled). I don't mind that, it leaves more time to get other stuff done, but I know there will be grumbles from some folks. Today it meant that I had plenty of time to wash the car while the test piece was running.

I will post the Cura profile shortly, also an updated priming script.

cheers,

Martin.

 

[Steve_Cornford]

Hi Martin,

Altway replied with:-
"
Please try to loose these two screws from the back (see attached picture).
Make the gantry straight with the ruler align to the table and screw it again.
I hope it helps."

I also received the missing "filament guide tube" in the post this morning, so excellent service from Altway.

Have not had a chance to try either the 4 screws you suggested or the 2 screws they suggested yet.

Hope you didnt overdo it with the car washing!

Steve

 

[Martin Wynne]

The downside is that it makes FDM printing even slower, about 15 minutes per sleeper in 4mm/ft scale instead of the previous 10 minutes (with ironing enabled). I don't mind that, it leaves more time to get other stuff done, but I know there will be grumbles from some folks.

@Steve_Cornford

I tried changing to 0.16mm layers instead of 0.12mm. This has got the time back to about 10 minutes per timber. There is some reduction in quality as expected, but there is really very little in it. I suspect that after painting and ballasting it would be hard to tell the difference.

I will post Cura profiles for both.

cheers,

Martin.

 

[Steve_Cornford]

Hi Martin,
Just to report that by loosening the two screws on the back of the x-beam (as pictured by Altway) I was able to get it more accurately at right angles to the z-rails.
Steve

 

[Martin Wynne]

'
Setting up a custom printer in Cura -- see:

https://85a.uk/templot/club/index.php?threads/experimental-plug-track-continued.673/post-7361

(All this was covered in a Zoom meeting with John.)

Setting up a custom printer for the Kingroon Pro S1. I call it Templot Kingroon ProS1:

Priming script (Start G-code):

;Kingroon S1 prime perimeter
M413 S0 ;Disable power-loss recovery
G28 ;home
G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder
G1 Z5 F500 ;Move Z Axis up
G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder
G1 X15 Y15 Z0.1 F500.0 ; to start position and touch - prevent backlash
G1 X5 Y8 Z0.3 F500.0 E8; up to priming run and initial prime
G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder
G1 Y198    F1500.0 E10 ;Draw perimeter
G1 X195    F1500.0 E20
G1 Y8      F1500.0 E30
G1 X5.4    F1500.0 E40
G1 Y197.6  F1500.0 E50
G1 X194.6  F1500.0 E60
G1 Y8.4    F1500.0 E70
G1 X5.8    F1500.0 E80
G1 Y30 Z0.1  F500.0 ;touch again for backlash
G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder

The line M413 S0 disables the power-loss recovery function. This function causes rapid wear to the Micro SD card if used, and doesn't apply anyway if using USB to control the printer. If you want to use this function, delete this line or prefix it with a semi-colon: ;M413 S0

The priming script runs twice round the bed perimeter before printing each job (leaving a space to clear glass bed clips). Then abort the print, carefully remove it and measure the thickness across the corners (not at the actual corners):

It should be about 0.2mm at all 4 locations. Adjust the yellow wheels accordingly and try again. It's very difficult to get it spot-on all equal. Say in the range 0.18mm to 0.22mm.

The yellow screws are M4 with a pitch of 0.7mm and 16 notches on the wheel. So turning one notch adjusts by 0.7/16 = 0.04mm approx. Say 2.1/2 notches for 0.1mm. That's the theory. In practice it is more tricky because each wheel affects the others, and the machine support plate is not very rigid.

Make a test print of a few timbers. There should be a very slight elephant's foot effect detectable around the underside. Using the defaults for 4mm/ft scale, for Templot 243a the overall thickness should be around 3.2mm using a final bed temperature below 50degC, or around 3.1mm at 60degC (more shrinkage). For Templot 244a and later the overall thickness should be around 3.3mm using a final bed temperature below 50degC, or around 3.2mm at 60degC.

Attached below is the current Cura profile I'm using with PLA-Plus in 4mm/ft scale. Bed temperature reduces from 60degC to 45degC after first layer. This helps to prevent stringing and shrinkage. 0.16mm layers.

This profile is still experimental to minimize stringing through sockets. It's likely to change.

Then over on the right select the imported custom profile for use:

Smear PVP glue-stick across the plain glass bed using a slightly damp sponge (while the bed is cold). It will be good for several prints, doesn't need cleaning off every time. After the first print any excess dried glue can be removed by going over the bed with the window scraper:

Posting quickly because I have a hospital appointment today.

Martin.

 

[Steve_Cornford]

Hi Martin,
Thank you very much for posting that.
I have a cataract post-OP checkup today.
I have had both eyes done now with much improvement of vision.
Thank you NHS / Spa Medica.

Hope all goes well with your appointment.
Sreve

 

[Steve_Cornford]

Hi Martin,
Just to ensure I have clips in right position

glass plate temporarily with protective film whilst I handle. Upside down with "kingroo" legend on the front edge.


Also do I remove pale blue protective film on the metal heated bed?

Also do I need to copy your end G-code?

Steve

 

[Steve_Cornford]

i Martin,
The reason I ask about clips, is that in the position I have them usable bed space is more like x = 210mm, Y= 190mm.

I cant work out how to position clips to get 200mm by 200mm

Used all our eggs yesterday for pancakes
Steve

 

[Martin Wynne]

i Martin,
The reason I ask about clips, is that in the position I have them usable bed space is more like x = 210mm, Y= 190mm.

I cant work out how to position clips to get 200mm by 200mm

Used all our eggs yesterday for pancakes
Steve

@Steve_Cornford

Hi Steve,

For the clips I usually use 2 at the front, as you have them, and just one in the middle at the back, clear of the cable fitting.

The exact usable area is difficult to determine, because the X-Y home position may not be exactly on the corner of the build plate. The clips do take up some of the space. I suggest starting with something which fits comfortably within the build area, and try going larger later.

A problem which you may run into with the Pro, but not the original smaller Kingroon, is that the clench on the end of the X-axis belt hangs down and collides with the clips at the back. Likewise the fan cowling might do the same at the front.

All of which means the clips are a damn nuisance. There is no actual force on the bed when in use, so using a replacement plain glass bed I find I can get away without any clips by using a thin film of soapy water for a slippy suction grip all over. This is easier to position and remove afterwards if it is a little larger than the base plate (but not overhanging on the left). Apply some firm pressure while sliding the glass to and fro, so that the water squeezes out around the edges and can be wiped away. The thinner the water film, the firmer the grip. Once in place it is good for several jobs, and the grip seems to increase after the first heating. I use the 235mm glass bed from the Neptune 2S.

The blue-green film on the base plate seems to be part of the original plate material used in manufacture, and is perfectly smooth (or at least mine was). It can be left in place or removed as you wish. I removed mine in the interest of better heat transfer to the glass, although it is only 2 thou thick so probably it makes no difference.

There is no need to edit the end G-code unless you want to. It simply moves the bed fully forward to get at the finished part, and then switches everything off.

No pancakes yesterday, but 2 scrambled eggs for breakfast today.

cheers,

Martin.

 

[Steve_Cornford]

I removed the pale blue protective film from the heated bed plate.
I removed the protective film from the top surface of the glass plate. But I am going to use the glass plate upside down.
I washed the glass plate to remove any trace of fingerprintes etc.


As I wanted to drive the Kingroon via USB cable;
I created a folder on my laptop called Kingroon and copied in the contents of the folder /software drivers/FTDI USB drivers from the Kingroon USB/MicroSD card.
Then I also copied in the program that Martin has provided (https://85a.uk/odds/DRVSETUP64.exe)
I then ran that program from within the created folder.
Which gave:-

Selected the drop down arrow to choose ftdiport.inf

Then clicked install.

Now when I run Cura with the printer connected via USB cable and switched on, having sliced you now get a choice of save to disk or print to USB.



One step forward
Steve

 

[Steve_Cornford]

Two steps backwards
The first time i tried to print, the printer started the perimeter ok, but stopped after obeying the command :-

G1 Y198 F1500.0 E10 ;Draw perimeter
and proceeded to build a small pile of molten filament, so I aborted the print.

Tried again, same result.
Tried a test print from the MicroSD card (ie no USB involved) and that worked ok.

Three steps forwards
I will cut straight to the problem & the resolution.
I had used cut&paste to copy Martins G-code into the Cura parameter box, rather than typing in a copy!
(this results in some form of EOL/LF characters that are invisible but you can tell they are there by moving the cursor backwards and forwards. I remember something similar years ago when trying to get barcode printers to work from windows)
I deleted the two (invisible) characters at the end of each G-code line and then replaced them with a carriage return (CR).

Tried the test print and this time the printer behaved properly, printed the perimeter ok (two circuits), then proceeded to start primting the small section of timber base I am using as a test, at which point I aborted the print so that I can measure the perimeter as suggested by Martin.

 

[Martin Wynne]

Now when I run Cura with the printer connected via USB cable and switched on, having sliced you now get a choice of save to disk or print to USB.

@Steve_Cornford

Hi Steve,

Rather confusingly you need to click Print via USB twice. Once to select it from the dropdown, and then again to actually do it.

I found it safer to connect the USB cable to the computer only after switching the printer on. A couple of times switching on the printer with the USB already connected caused a glitch on my computer, presumably caused by an unregulated switch-on surge on the USB 5v line.

Likewise, if you switch the printer off with the USB connected, you will see the printer control screen is still on, powered through the USB from the computer. It's all rather poor design of the Chinese electronics, but works fine if you don't switch it on or off while the USB cable is connected.

While connected, if you switch to the Monitor tab in Cura, you can control the printer pre-heating and homing from Cura. I find that I never need to look at the printer control screen in normal use. Cura shows the re-calculated estimated print time as it goes along, based on the actual speed the printer is running at.

You can also abort a print from Cura, useful if you want to measure the priming run without going any further.

p.s. as predicted, I have made some minor changes to the script and profile today. i will post them when I'm sure they are worth doing.

cheers,

Martin.

 

[Steve_Cornford]

I have been typing my actions and experiences in retrospect, in case it helps someone else.

Conclusion
Do not cut & paste the G-code, just retype it!

I have now had to pack up the printer as the den is due to be a bedroom for the next couple of nights, then I am abroad for a week in Marakesh, after that I hope to resume printing timber bases and jigs.
Steve

 

[Martin Wynne]

Conclusion

Do not cut & paste the G-code, just retype it!

@Steve_Cornford

Sorry Steve, that's my fault for forgetting to put the script in code tags. No need to re-type it!

Here it is again, with a slight mod to ensure we get a full extrusion along the first edge of the perimeter:

;Kingroon S1 prime perimeter
M413 S0 ;Disable power-loss recovery
G28 ;home
G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder
G1 Z5 F500 ;Move Z Axis up
G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder
G1 X15 Y15 Z0.1 F500.0 ; to start position and touch - prevent backlash
G1 X5 Y8 Z0.3 F500.0 E8; up to priming run and initial prime
G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder
G1 Y198    F1500.0 E10 ;Draw perimeter
G1 X195    F1500.0 E20
G1 Y8      F1500.0 E30
G1 X5.4    F1500.0 E40
G1 Y197.6  F1500.0 E50
G1 X194.6  F1500.0 E60
G1 Y8.4    F1500.0 E70
G1 X5.8    F1500.0 E80
G1 Y30 Z0.1  F500.0 ;touch again for backlash
G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder

The above should cut and paste without problems -- it does here.

cheers,

Martin.

 

[Steve_Cornford]

I had not quite appreciated how gossamer fine the extruded filament is.
Watching it all happen is quite addictive.
Thanks again Martin,
Steve

 

[Steve_Cornford]

Back refreshed from Marakech and the Atlas mountains, so had another go at a test print.
Switcehd on printer and performed a bed levelling (with cold nozzle)
Being fascinated watching the printer did not abort after the perimeter finished and let it complete my short timbering base test piece.
Seemed to be going fine until after it had got to the layers above the flanges, then some stringing occured.
Once completed and cooled I removed the prints and measured the perimeter. This measured 0.34mm to 0.35mm, so too thick.
I performed the levelling again, and found that i had to raise the bed in all four corners.
I believe that when I first performed the levelling their is a chance that some solid (cold) filament was projecting from the nozzle, thus giving a false measuring point.
I was using the Cura profile that Martin attached to post#22 of this topic.
Steve

 

[Steve_Cornford]

This mornings test print

 

[Martin Wynne]

View attachment 8710
This mornings test print

@Steve_Cornford

Hi Steve,

That's not the profile I posted. Hence the stringing. That is a standard profile with a brim all round.

After importing a custom profile it is necessary to select it for use in the drop-down on the right:

p.s. a shorter test print is quicker. Above is 2 sleepers of approach track and 4 timbers of switch front. To give a selection of timber widths and socket walls, soleplate and the slider ribs. Cura says 56 minutes.

cheers,

Martin.

 

[Paul Boyd]

I performed the levelling again, and found that i had to raise the beI believe that when I first performed the levelling their is a chance that some solid (cold) filament was projecting from the nozzle, thus giving a false measuring point

That was something I learnt very early on - I always level with the bed and nozzle hot, and that is one of the reasons why.

 

[Martin Wynne]

That was something I learnt very early on - I always level with the bed and nozzle hot, and that is one of the reasons why.

@Paul Boyd

Hi Paul,

The problem there is that you have to wait for the bed to cool down again before you can apply the glue, otherwise it dries before you have time to smear it to an even film.

I have come to the conclusion that the paper levelling method is only ever an approximation. I use it with the machine cold to get the adjusting screws somewhere near, moving the position manually with the power off. It usually needs doing that way only once after assembling or modifying the machine.

For precise levelling I measure the thickness of a perimeter priming run at each corner to find out what the printer is actually doing when working:

It takes a few goes to get it just right, because the adjusting wheels affect each other. But once set it doesn't often need doing again.

I realise this method bears no relation to anything in the printer instructions, but that's just me.

cheers,

Martin.

 

[Paul Boyd]

The problem there is that you have to wait for the bed to cool down again before you can apply the glue, otherwise it dries before you have time to smear it to an even film.

I've never found the need to apply glue, albeit I'm not using the Kingroon printer. I clean the bed with IPA before it gets too warm, and paper level to get what is normally close enough - where accuracy is important I would use the "measuring corners" method you suggest.

Cheers,
Paul

 

[Martin Wynne]

I've never found the need to apply glue, albeit I'm not using the Kingroon printer.

@Paul Boyd

Hi Paul,

The glue is for use with a plain glass bed, not specifically the Kingroon.

I prefer plain dead-flat glass to the bendy tin, which seems to require frequent levelling. With glass once it's set, you can use it for weeks without needing to think about levelling. I mark one corner so that it is always replaced the same way round if I do remove it.

cheers,

Martin.

 

[Steve_Cornford]

Hi Martin,
Thanks for the info.
I did notice that the nozzle temperature was displaying as 210degrees.

You are right, it was using profile "fine"

Having clicked on the dropdown I can see your profile that I imported.

Now selected!
Steve

 

[Steve_Cornford]

New test print in progress using the correct profile this time, with the smaller test print that Martin suggested.

79% done, Cura on laptop (USB print) displaying 190/191° for nozzle, 45/46° for bed
Steve

 

[Steve_Cornford]

Result was much improved... now that I am selecting the correct profile

Stringing more or less absent.

Something not quite right with the top surface of the sole plate timber, right hand end.

The perimeter came out as 0.30mm at each measuring point.
Steve

 

[Steve_Cornford]

Ps. I think you right about the kingroon glass bed Martin.
Upside down it is slightly convex, ie the smooth side.
The patterned side is slight concave.
I will look into getting a replacement.
Is Borosilicate preferred to tempered?
Steve

 

[Martin Wynne]

@Steve_Cornford

Hi Steve,

Looking good.

Have you tried giving it a light wet-sanding (400 grit), and scrubbing with a nail brush and rinse off to remove any cobwebs? It usually cleans up nicely.

What is the overall thickness? Should be around 3.1mm - 3.2mm (if Templot 243a), with just a hint of elephant's foot all round.

The overall dimensions might be a bit big. That's because for that profile I reduced the bed temperature to 45degC after the first layer. Helps to reduce stringing. This means there is less shrinkage, so the default FDM shrinkage settings might be a bit too high.

The top ironing function applies to the uppermost surface only. So the timber surrounding the soleplate doesn't get any and the results are a bit iffy. Mine is the same. It should be lost when painted, but I will see if I can find a setting which improves it. If ironing is switched on for all upper surfaces it applies to the webs too, and wastes a lot of time.

cheers,

Martin.

 

[Steve_Cornford]

Measures 3.09 to 3.11mm
Steve

 

[Martin Wynne]

Ps. I think you right about the kingroon glass bed Martin.
Upside down it is slightly convex, ie the smooth side.
The patterned side is slight concave.
I will look into getting a replacement.
Is Borosilicate preferred to tempered?
Steve

@Steve_Cornford

Hi Steve,

I know nothing.

It seems that Borosilicate is preferred, and more likely to be dead flat.

Note however that it is 3mm thick, so if you are currently using the 4mm glass from Kingroon, you will need to drop the Z-limit screw by 1mm.

I'm currently using one of these on the Kingroon, originally obtained for the Neptune 2S:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07SQCQ8KB

But it is no longer in stock. The equivalent would seem to be:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07D6J92KB

However, I can recommend this supplier:

https://ooznest.co.uk/product/borosilicate-glass-build-plate/

who will cut it to any size. Which means it's decision time -- what size to get?

If you wish to continue using the bed clips, you will need to order 210mm on the Y dimension at least, for the clips front and back.

However, I'm no longer using clips. They are a nuisance and get in the way. I have found that a thin film of slightly soapy water creates a good enough slippy suction stick on the metal baseplate, which gets firmer after heating. It's then good for several days use, if you don't want to remove it. Slide it about with some pressure to squeeze out the surplus water and wipe off.

But it's easier to apply and especially to remove if it's larger on at least one edge for handling. So maybe 210mm x 230mm would allow for clips front and back, with a 20mm overlap on the right for handling if not using them.

p.s. the 200mmx200mm limit is in the Kingroon firmware, so to use the full available 210mmx210mm would require modified firmware. Things go funny at the edges if you try to do it without.

cheers,

Martin.

 

[Steve_Cornford]

Hi Martin,
Thanks for that very useful information.
I will get one cut to size.

What's that you say?

Measure twice, cut once!

Steve

 

[Phil G]

Hi Steve,
Have you tried printing filing jigs yet?
cheers
Phil,

 

[Steve_Cornford]

Hi Phil,
No, not yet.
Steve

 

[Steve_Cornford]

returned home after visiting older sister & found this waiting for me:-

Think I will need window scraper to get this off the bed!
Steve

 

[Martin Wynne]

returned home after visiting older sister & found this waiting for me:-

View attachment 8743

Think I will need window scraper to get this off the bed!
Steve

@Steve_Cornford

Hi Steve,

If it's stuck firm, try putting it in the fridge for 15 minutes. The differential contraction will free it.

Another option is to stand the bed on edge on something not too hard (carpet?), put a bit of wood against the part, and give it a sharp tap with a mallet.

cheers,

Martin.

 

[Steve_Cornford]

Thanks Martin,
I will try the fridge first!
Steve

 

[Steve_Cornford]

Just remembered I have ordered a borosilicate replacement, so if the frdige doesnt work I will try the mallet!
Steve

 

[Martin Wynne]

Just remembered I have ordered a borosilicate replacement, so if the frdige doesnt work I will try the mallet!
Steve

@Steve_Cornford

Hi Steve,

How much glue did you use? !

If no joy in the fridge after say an hour, try transferring it to the freezer for 10 minutes.

I have used the mallet method many times on prints from the BIBO -- the glass has lived to tell the tale! It is 4mm thick, like the Kingroon.

The PVP glue is water soluble, so if you flood it with warm water and get the window scraper under one corner, it should come free.

p.s. did you use the bricks profile for the jig? There is a separate profile for the jigs with the bed at 60degC which provides more thermal contraction as it cools. Often you hear a little snap sound as it comes free as it cools. Stringing isn't such a problem with the jigs (no sockets), so can use a higher temperature.

I have found that after the first few uses the surface of the glass becomes conditioned in some way with residual glue, even after cleaning it. So that the next job sticks firmly enough without needing any glue. When you have got the jig off, try going all over the glass with the window scraper to remove any surplus dried glue, and then try a print without any fresh glue. There are lots of tips and tricks to learn with FDM.

The thickness of the jigs isn't critical, so you might prefer to use the coated side of the glass for the jigs. It is supposed to come free more easily, but I think it needs 60degC to stick properly.

cheers,

Martin.

 

[Steve_Cornford]

Ooops!
Because Phil G asked if I had printed any jigs yet, I though why not, but as I was in a hurry this morning I just set it printing with the existing (brick) profile as I forgot that you have provided a seperate one for jigs!
Sorry Martin, but I am a year older than you so forget even more!

I just used a smear of PVP then wiped with a damp sponge as recomended.

Looking on the bright side of life, the jig does look very nice!

Now where did I put that mallet?

I will also search the forum for the jig profile.
Thank you for your patience.
Steve