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TEMPLOT 3D PLUG TRACK - To get up to speed with this experimental project click here.   To watch an introductory video click here.   See the User Guide at Bexhill West.

  • The Plug Track functions are experimental and still being developed. Some of the earlier pages of this topic are now out-of-date.

    For an updated overview of this project see this topic.   For some practical modelling aspects of using Plug Track see Building 3D Track.

    The assumption is that you have your own machines on which to experiment, or helpful friends with machines. Please do not send Templot files to commercial laser cutting or 3D printing firms while this project is still experimental, because the results are unpredictable and possibly wasteful.

    Some pages of this and other topics include contributions from members who are creating and posting their own CAD designs for 3D printing and laser-cutting. Do not confuse them with Templot's own exported CAD files. All files derived from Templot are © Martin Wynne.
  • The Plug Track functions are experimental and still being developed.

    For an updated overview of this project see this topic.   For some practical modelling aspects of using Plug Track see Building 3D Track.

    The assumption is that you have your own machines on which to experiment, or helpful friends with machines. Please do not send Templot files to commercial laser cutting or 3D printing firms while this project is still experimental, because the results are unpredictable and possibly wasteful.

    Some pages of this and other topics include contributions from members who are creating and posting their own CAD designs for 3D printing and laser-cutting. Do not confuse them with Templot's own exported CAD files. All files derived from Templot are © Martin Wynne.

Extracting a 3D timbering brick from a track plan

Quick reply >
Also they have a paid-for slicer (for resin printing) which includes mesh fixing tools, so no need to go online. Their blurb actually mentions model trains: (30-day free trial) https://www.formware.co/slicer/download
@Paul Boyd

Hi Paul,

I've installed the free trial of the Formware slicer. As expected the integral mesh fixer is actually the same as the online version, so the same result but with no waiting or time-outs or file size limits, and Cura is equally happy with the result:

formware_slicer_fix.png


The slicer itself is for resin printers, not FDM, and quite expensive. On the other hand the free Chitubox resin slicer is quite primitive in places, and the Chitubox paid-for version is an expensive subscription service. This Formware slicer looks the business for printing the chairs and other stuff on my Elegoo printer, so I've got 30 days to decide if it's worth the cost. :)

cheers,

Martin.
 
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@Paul Boyd

Hi Paul,

I've installed the free trial of the Formware slicer. As expected the integral mesh fixer is actually the same as the online version, so the same result but with no waiting or time-outs or file size limits, and Cura is equally happy with the result:

View attachment 3821

The slicer itself is for resin printers, not FDM, and quite expensive. On the other hand the free Chitubox resin slicer is quite primitive in places, and the Chitubox paid-for version is an expensive subscription service. This Formware slicer looks the business for printing the chairs and other stuff on my Elegoo printer, so I've got 30 days to decide if it's worth the cost. :)

cheers,

Martin.

Hi Martin

At one point I accidentally exported an STL with chairs and they actually looked quite good. I hadn’t done anything about rail sizes or any other adjustments, and they certainly wouldn’t have printed on my FDM printer but resin printing is looking more and more like the way to go.

Cheers,
Paul
 
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More progress! Much of the sheds area is now laid, waiting for wagon turntables before continuing. The two bricks at the top are positioned temporarily, with a couple of splints to give correct spacing from the copperclad flatbottom track - these will be cut off once the brick positions are marked. Just two more bricks to go off to the left.

JPEG image 2.jpeg
JPEG image.jpeg


I’ve also found out how to convert HEIC to JPG on the iPad - just copy and paste to the Files app and they’re automatically converted where they’re just as accessible from either the iPad or PC.
 
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@Paul Boyd

Hi Paul,

That's looking good!

Bloat of the day: :)

stl_rotation1.png


stl_rotation2.png


If your build plate outline has been rotated on the trackpad, you can "undo" the rotation when exporting the STL file. This might be easier than relying on the slicer to do it.

A few points:

X-Y rotation only, Z not affected. For complex Z rolls, the slicer must be used.

Anticlockwise is the positive rotation direction. Set zero angle to cancel any rotation.

Only the STL is rotated -- the DXF remains unchanged as a true export for CAD, etc.

Any shrinkage or scaling is applied after rotation. This could be significant if the X-shrinkage/scaling differs from the Y-shrinkage/scaling. A rotated STL would then not be an exact copy of the unrotated DXF. This might need to be taken into account when printing the chairs.

cheers,

Martin.
 
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That looks like another useful feature! I'm looking forward to the next release.

I'm just reprinting the wagon turntable area - I made a fundamental mistake in drawing the 6ft diameter table but not allowing for the surround, so my 3D printed turntable wells clashed with sleepers! I discovered this when I tried placing the wells...

Cheers,
Paul
 
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@Paul Boyd

Hi Paul,

Bad luck about having to do a reprint. :(

If anything, and this applies generally, the ability to rotate a rectangle shape without breaking it into four would be handy.

That was a left-over from the old BGS format. It has been possible to work round it since the change to BGS3, but I have added yet more bells and whistles to make it easier:

shapes_234d.png


The breaking a rectangle to 4 lines function is still available in the menu should anyone want it, but it's not easy to think of a reason -- maybe converting a brick slab to 4 splints to leave a space in the middle.

There are 2 new buttons to set the rotation angle, and a twist rectangle mouse action.

What's the difference between rotate and twist? rotate causes the shape(s) to orbit around the grid origin, or notch, or somewhere else; twist causes a shape to spin around its centre. Think Earth orbiting the Sun, or spinning on its axis. :)

Also another tick-box brick boundary rectangle. This allows a non-brick rectangle to be used as a brick boundary outline representing the printer build plate. It shows on the trackpad as a bold outline in the selected brick colour. But it's not a brick shape and doesn't get exported as a slab in the brick. Being a non-brick rectangle it can have a hatched infill if desired (brick slabs have a solid infill).

This replaces the temporary use of the image boundary rectangle (of which there is only one and it can't be rotated) for this purpose.

234d will be on the server soon.

I'd like to think that I have now reached a breathing space in the FDM printing, and can get back to thinking about the chairs. I'm sure there are lots of folks waiting for some progress on them.

But I have to come back to this stuff before too long, because none of it is yet in the regular outputs for paper templates, PDF, etc.

cheers,

Martin.
 
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Hi Martin

What's the difference between rotate and twist? rotate causes the shape(s) to orbit around the grid origin, or notch, or somewhere else; twist causes a shape to spin around its centre. Think Earth orbiting the Sun, or spinning on its axis. :)

Having been confused by that in the past, thanks for the clarification of the difference!

I'd like to think that I have now reached a breathing space in the FDM printing, and can get back to thinking about the chairs. I'm sure there are lots of folks waiting for some progress on them.

I think there's more than a breathing space! Give or take a few loose ends, this is a very functional system now as demonstrated by my built track using FDM bricks.

Cheers,
Paul
 
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@Paul Boyd

Hi Paul,

234d is now on the server.

Main changes:

brick_new_234d.png



Also - no blue rails: :)

no_blue_rails_234d_pt_blanking.png


index.php


index.php


shapes_234d_1.png



Strange how I always spot something 5 minutes after releasing an update:

brick_pre_sets.png


It doesn't affect anything, it is only a label. Angles are specified in degrees. Just annoying. :(

I doubt anyone will want a pre-set angle, but it's there if wanted. The build plate pre-sets are included in the saved program preferences.

cheers,

Martin.
 
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Oh gosh, so many exciting things! The build plate presets is a very useful and welcome surprise. And those blue rails - thanks for losing those! I feel a bit guilty that I only have two bricks left to print for my narrow gauge layout, but I do seem to be accumulating 2mm scale stock, and seem to have a couple of spare baseboards hanging about...

Thanks for all your work on this, @Martin Wynne , I'll let you get back to chairs now :)

I'll write up some notes on all this and post them here somewhere. It'll be more how I do things, which I'm sure won't necessarily be how it was intended to be used, of course. It does mean those two bricks will take a very long time - I know this from writing up build instructions at work!

Cheers,
Paul
 
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@Paul Boyd

Hi Paul,

Just a couple more changes in the next update, before I move back to the chairs.

peg on blanked length now works on plain track.

I have also given it the CTRL+3 shortcut, instead of the rarely used peg on DP. I know some folks hate changes to the shortcuts, so I will just have to weather the flak. And remember to update the docs.

This makes it quick and easy to put the notch under it, and then add a clip at notch.

It will be in the next update, but I won't do one immediately just for that.

cheers,

Martin.
 
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message ref: 4458
@Paul Boyd

Hi Paul,

Just a couple more changes in the next update, before I move back to the chairs.

peg on blanked length now works on plain track.

I have also given it the CTRL+3 shortcut, instead of the rarely used peg on DP. I know some folks hate changes to the shortcuts, so I will just have to weather the flak. And remember to update the docs.

This makes it quick and easy to put the notch under it, and then add a clip at notch.

It will be in the next update, but I won't do one immediately just for that.

cheers,

Martin.

Ah, brilliant, thank you! That would be really useful - it was something I thought I'd forgotten how to do!

Cheers,
Paul
 
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.
I thought I had finished with the timbering bricks, but I've gone back to add yet another tickbox: :)

brick_wall_splints.png



Ticking the above option causes a splint to be printed at the full height level with the timber tops, instead of being hidden down in the ballast:

brick_walls.png

I have called these brick walls. To identify them they are shown hatched on the trackpad.

They must be cut off and discarded to make the brick usable. Which means they must be attached to the timbers by means of splints and webs only, so that they can be cut away easily. You can add as many as you like, anywhere you like. You might like to make them specific sizes, so that they become useful additions to the modelling junk box -- wagon loads? fence posts? There is an option in the menu to change the width and thickness of each one individually if desired. You might even omit the timbering base and combine them with slab shapes as a primitive form of CAD to create point-motor brackets and suchlike.

What are they for? Look at this:

grey_scoosh2.jpg


Those FDM artifacts on the timber surface look awful (this is EM gauge). They barely notice in the original, but a scoosh of grey primer and a cruel close-up shows them up badly.

To hide them there are two possibilities:

1. rub some filler into the surface. Easy and quick. But it's surprisingly difficult to do that without getting any in the sockets -- which spoils the fit of the chairs.

or

2. switch on the ironing function in Cura. This adds a very thin film of polymer over the surface to create a top skin. It is slow and increases the print time considerably. But it works quite well to improve the surface -- I have found a flow rate of 5% of the normal layer flow works well to smooth the surface without too much pillowing effect.

Either way, or even if you do nothing, you are likely to want to sand over the surface of the timbers before fitting the chairs. It needs to be done wet with soapy water and Wet-or-dry abrasive paper on a sanding block or plate. Abrading the polymer dry risks melting the surface of the polymer from friction heat, which ruins the process. The wet process avoids this.

But however careful you are, and however flat the sanding block, it's inevitable that the end timbers will get sanded down more than the middle ones, and you then have an uneven top level for the finished track.

That's where the sacrificial brick walls come in. They protect the end timbers from excessive sanding and help you preserve an even top timber level.

I seem to have written another rambling chapter in "The Book of Plug Track". :(

Oh well, the option is now there if you want it. In the next program update.

cheers,

Martin.
 
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message ref: 4813
.
I thought I had finished with the timbering bricks, but I've gone back to add yet another tickbox: :)

View attachment 4088


Ticking the above option causes a splint to be printed at the full height level with the timber tops, instead of being hidden down in the ballast:

View attachment 4089
I have called these brick walls. To identify them they are shown hatched on the trackpad.

They must be cut off and discarded to make the brick usable. Which means they must be attached to the timbers by means of splints and webs only, so that they can be cut away easily. You can add as many as you like, anywhere you like. You might like to make them specific sizes, so that they become useful additions to the modelling junk box -- wagon loads? fence posts? There is an option in the menu to change the width and thickness of each one individually if desired. You might even omit the timbering base and combine them with slab shapes as a primitive form of CAD to create point-motor brackets and suchlike.

What are they for? Look at this:

View attachment 4091

Those FDM artifacts on the timber surface look awful (this is EM gauge). They barely notice in the original, but a scoosh of grey primer and a cruel close-up shows them up badly.

To hide them there are two possibilities:

1. rub some filler into the surface. Easy and quick. But it's surprisingly difficult to do that without getting any in the sockets -- which spoils the fit of the chairs.

or

2. switch on the ironing function in Cura. This adds a very thin film of polymer over the surface to create a top skin. It is slow and increases the print time considerably. But it works quite well to improve the surface -- I have found a flow rate of 5% of the normal layer flow works well to smooth the surface without too much pillowing effect.

Either way, or even if you do nothing, you are likely to want to sand over the surface of the timbers before fitting the chairs. It needs to be done wet with soapy water and Wet-or-dry abrasive paper on a sanding block or plate. Abrading the polymer dry risks melting the surface of the polymer from friction heat, which ruins the process. The wet process avoids this.

But however careful you are, and however flat the sanding block, it's inevitable that the end timbers will get sanded down more than the middle ones, and you then have an uneven top level for the finished track.

That's where the sacrificial brick walls come in. They protect the end timbers from excessive sanding and help you preserve an even top timber level.

I seem to have written another rambling chapter in "The Book of Plug Track". :(

Oh well, the option is now there if you want it. In the next program update.

cheers,

Martin.
Try filling primers. No not the Halford rough stuff. But the nice stuff or plastic kit modellers use such as Ammo products or mr Colour. Hannants have a good range. - no just a satisfied customer before I am asked. - still a great shop and source if support even at the derision you get being a railway model er not an aircraft of tank type!
 
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Last edited:
Try filling primers. No not the Halford rough stuff. But the nice stuff or plastic kit modellers use such as Ammo products or mr Colour. Hanna TS have a good range. - no just a satisfied customer before I am asked. - still a great shop and source if support even at the derision you get being a railway model er not an aircraft of tank type!
I realised the plastic modelling community is way ahead of railway modelling when I rejoined it about 10 years ago. Mr.Finishing Surfacer is a beautifully smooth filler primer which airbrushes really nicely with their Levelling Thinners. That’s my default primer these days.

As for etched parts, aftermarket parts for plastic modellers make even the best etched kits for railway modellers look crude and clunky in comparison!

Cheers,
Paul
 
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message ref: 7930
Possibly a numpty question from a long time Templot user but how do I define a marker colour for brick templates in 2.41d. I have just started trying to understand 3d printing of track and have managed to print out timbers and chairs for a small template of straight track. I now have 3 parallel tracks of which the middle one is a 3 way tandem turnout with crossovers to the outside tracks. I want to split this up into bricks so that they fit on my Neptune 2S.

Thanks
Brian
 
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message ref: 8237
@hewi50uk

Hi Brian,

Welcome to Templot Club. :)

1. set up new brick colour.

To make a shortened version of a template to fit an FDM printer bed:

2. copy it for a brick (puts the peg at CTRL-1 to avoid disrupting the timbering).

3. shorten overall length F4.

4. blank up to required start CTRL+F3.

5. store template and export the brick.

I shall be making a proper video showing all this and more in due course, but here's the best I can do quickly today, a short scruff bit of video:

https://flashbackconnect.com/Default.aspx?id=FnGhGN5K7Oyz2BvrquboNA2

Ask again if you need more info. A template marker colour can be changed via the storage box.

cheers,

Martin.
 
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message ref: 8239
@hewi50uk

Hi Brian,

Welcome to Templot Club. :)

1. set up new brick colour.

To make a shortened version of a template to fit an FDM printer bed:

2. copy it for a brick (puts the peg at CTRL-1 to avoid disrupting the timbering).

3. shorten overall length F4.

4. blank up to required start CTRL+F3.

5. store template and export the brick.

I shall be making a proper video showing all this and more in due course, but here's the best I can do quickly today, a short scruff bit of video:

https://flashbackconnect.com/Default.aspx?id=FnGhGN5K7Oyz2BvrquboNA2

Ask again if you need more info. A template marker colour can be changed via the storage box.

cheers,

Martin.
Thanks Martin
A prompt and comprehensive answer. I have often used marker colours before but never in the context of bricklaying. I have got that to work and can now move on. From the way this all works I assume that I can have bricks of different colours when I divide up my tandem turnout.
I am sure more questions may follow.

Cheers
Brian
 
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message ref: 8240
I assume that I can have bricks of different colours when I divide up my tandem turnout.
@hewi50uk

Hi Brian,

Sure, that's what is intended. Leave your trackplan unchanged and create copied partial templates on new brick boundaries which fit your FDM printer. Here is a brick wall which I created for James to have on his demo stand at Scaleforum recently:


index.php



First 3 sections printed and clipped together:

index.php


cheers,

Martin.
 
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message ref: 8241
@hewi50uk

Hi Brian,

Sure, that's what is intended. Leave your trackplan unchanged and create copied partial templates on new brick boundaries which fit your FDM printer. Here is a brick wall which I created for James to have on his demo stand at Scaleforum recently:


index.php



First 3 sections printed and clipped together:

index.php


cheers,

Martin.
Thanks Martin, that is brilliant, it is just what I want to do. A couple more questions if I may.

1. Can brick boundary rectangles overlap or do they have to be exactly contiguous?

2. Is it possible to put a rectangle defining chairs to be exported inside a bigger rectangle defining a brick?

Regards
Brian
 
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message ref: 8242
1. Can brick boundary rectangles overlap or do they have to be exactly contiguous?
@hewi50uk

Hi Brian,

You have lost me there. The idea is that the bricks clip together. Which means a timber is either in one brick or the next one, it can't be in both.

If you draw brick boundary rectangles they are purely for your own guidance in knowing how much will fit in each brick. The boundary rectangle dimensions don't play any part in the export.

2. Is it possible to put a rectangle defining chairs to be exported inside a bigger rectangle defining a brick?

The bricks are much smaller when exporting the chairs, and in defining which raft rectangle is in use if you have drawn several of them. The interchangeable chairs are created in bulk from templates created specifically for the purpose:

index.php


index.php



Separate bricks for areas of special switch and crossing chairs are isolated from the trackplan in the same way as the timbering bricks, and by omitting rails. A raft rectangle is drawn under them, and each small area of special chairs is exported in its own STL file:


xing_chirs_dxf1.png


xing_chirs_dxf2.png


xing_chirs_dxf3.png



It's all been covered several times in the main topics as the project has developed:

https://85a.uk/templot/club/index.php?forums/plug-track.34/

A proper video explanation and user guide will hopefully be available soon, including on the Bexhill West youtube channel.

cheers,

Martin.
 
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message ref: 8243
@hewi50uk

Hi Brian,

You have lost me there. The idea is that the bricks clip together. Which means a timber is either in one brick or the next one, it can't be in both.

If you draw brick boundary rectangles they are purely for your own guidance in knowing how much will fit in each brick. The boundary rectangle dimensions don't play any part in the export.



The bricks are much smaller when exporting the chairs, and in defining which raft rectangle is in use if you have drawn several of them. The interchangeable chairs are created in bulk from templates created specifically for the purpose:

index.php


index.php



Separate bricks for areas of special switch and crossing chairs are isolated from the trackplan in the same way as the timbering bricks, and by omitting rails. A raft rectangle is drawn under them, and each small area of special chairs is exported in its own STL file:


View attachment 7169

View attachment 7171

View attachment 7170


It's all been covered several times in the main topics as the project has developed:

https://85a.uk/templot/club/index.php?forums/plug-track.34/

A proper video explanation and user guide will hopefully be available soon, including on the Bexhill West youtube channel.

cheers,

Martin.
@hewi50uk

Hi Brian,

You have lost me there. The idea is that the bricks clip together. Which means a timber is either in one brick or the next one, it can't be in both.

If you draw brick boundary rectangles they are purely for your own guidance in knowing how much will fit in each brick. The boundary rectangle dimensions don't play any part in the export.



The bricks are much smaller when exporting the chairs, and in defining which raft rectangle is in use if you have drawn several of them. The interchangeable chairs are created in bulk from templates created specifically for the purpose:

index.php


index.php



Separate bricks for areas of special switch and crossing chairs are isolated from the trackplan in the same way as the timbering bricks, and by omitting rails. A raft rectangle is drawn under them, and each small area of special chairs is exported in its own STL file:


View attachment 7169

View attachment 7171

View attachment 7170


It's all been covered several times in the main topics as the project has developed:

https://85a.uk/templot/club/index.php?forums/plug-track.34/

A proper video explanation and user guide will hopefully be available soon, including on the Bexhill West youtube channel.

cheers,

Martin.
Thanks Martin, the concept has finally dawned on me and I have managed to split my tandem turnout into printable areas and produce timbers. I have tried printing chairs but my Mars3 seems to need some adjustment as using ABS-Like resin some are sticking to the FEP film. I will try resetting the build plate and try again.
Cheers
Brian
 
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message ref: 8249
Thanks Martin
The concept has finally dawned on me and I have managed to split my 3 way tandem into printable areas and print timbers. I have tried printing chairs but some have stuck to the FEP film so some adjustment needed.
Onwards and upwards!
Cheers
Brian
 
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message ref: 8250
Thanks Martin
The concept has finally dawned on me and I have managed to split my 3 way tandem into printable areas and print timbers. I have tried printing chairs but some have stuck to the FEP film so some adjustment needed.
Onwards and upwards!
Cheers
Brian
@hewi50uk

Hi Brian,

These are the settings I have been using for chair rafts on both my Mars2 Pro printer and my Alkaid printer using ABS-Like resin, both Elegoo and Anycubic water-washable:

mars2_alkaid_settings.png


I have had no problems at all, but I did have with some of the suggested settings supplied with the printers. I think perhaps the long exposure time on the bottom layers is important. The quality of the raft base is irrelevant, so we can set whatever gets the most reliable results.

For your tandem I have not yet done the half-bolted chairs which you are likely to need. You may need to do some cutting and carving of the existing chairs at the second switch toe.

cheers,

Martin.
 
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Hi Martin,
Have you upgraded your Mars 2 Pro to the same level firmware & Chitutbox version as the Alkaid?
Steve

Hi Steve,

No, Mars is still as supplied and I'm also still using v.1.6.5 of Chitubox too. I've been using the .ctb files from 1.6.5 interchangeably on the Mars and Alkaid with no issues. I'm fairly sure the Alkaid is simply a clone of the Mars 2.

Upgrading is on my to-do list along with so much else. But the current results are fine, and I don't know how the upgrade would improve them. Did you find any difference?

A large parcel has arrived from Austria in the last 5 minutes, so I won't be doing the upgrade today. :)

cheers,

Martin.
 
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Hi Martin,
I am currently on Chitubox v1.8.1
It does not have the "transition layer count" or "transition type" fields that you have on your screen shot.
Steve

Hi Steve,

Chitubox keeps telling me 1.9.5 is available. I downloaded and installed it. It installs separately from 1.6.5, you can have both and use either.

When I run 1.9.5, it tells me it won't work with the original Mars 2 firmware, so I switched back to using 1.6.5 for now. I will get it all sorted out soon, but in the meantime I'm happily printing chairs, so the urgency isn't there. :)

Martin.
 
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Just for completeness, on my Mars 2 Pro the info screen gives:-
EL3D - 3.0.2
then a very long number i wont bother typing!
then:-
V4.3.13 - LCDC/1620 x 2560 / F2.23

Then I noticed a speaker on/off icon, and it was switched off.
I switched it on, then started a print.
Now I remember why I switched it off in the first place!

Doh!

I am in process of printing a "resin calibration" timber base, only really to check the x and y axis, as I realised that the default resin shrinkage is now 0.75%, als my printer has been packed away for quite a while.

Box file attached in case it is of use to anyone else.

Its a piece of plain track with the two outermost flanges switched off, but designed to measure 100mm over the two end sleeper faces. I cheated by altering timber width to 12".

Oh, and the sleepers should be 34mm long.

I used the measuring device in the 3D-Tool preview to check and this correctly showed the measurement as 100.75mm.

Just trying to emulate your Templot printer calibration tool.

It will be interesting to measure the finished article.


Steve



Steve
 

Attachments

  • calibrate_resin.box
    17.7 KB · Views: 78
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Martin

I have started on Paul's plan and have made the first four bricks, as soon as I preview the brick the two tracks are there, but the top one is in blocked out colour, the bottom track is in colour but transparent not blocked out. what have I missed out please

John
 
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Hi John,
Can you attach your box file so it can be inspected?
Steve


Steve

Thanks for the reply, file attached, only checked the first two bricks from the left, but it seems I have left something out
 

Attachments

  • Paul Godwin ver1D.box
    364.7 KB · Views: 56
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Steve

Thanks for the reply, file attached, only checked the first two bricks from the left, but it seems I have left something out

Issue resolved, it was something in/om my old computer, I opened the plan up using my laptop and all was fine

I printed the first brick fine, I then tried to make a second file for brick 2, Cura said it was oversize so I reduced the number of timbers within the second brick,

Then I ran into a problem with 3D builder opening up all the plan, not just the brick. Any thoughts of what I have done wrong please

John
 
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Hi John,
It might be that you have not ticked the "bricklaying" tick box and or chosen the colour of your desired brick.
For instance, you have quite a few purple templates that make up a brick , so here I have chosen purple as the brick colour to export:-
1711962776347.png

If you dont choose a colour you might default to "all" background templates.

Here is a preview in 3D Tools
1711962919861.png

If you look in your box then choose list you can see you have quite a few purple templates and some seem to overlap or are duplicates
see cl135,cl136, and pr138

Steve
 
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Martin

Thanks, I did not expand into the larger dialog box (or pressed the wrong thing first) Printing brick 3 as still not getting brick 2 to work. Brick 3 is now happily working

John
 
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Hi John,
By brick 2 , do you mean the orange (or is it puce?) brick?
brick2.png

This is the orange brick from the boxfile you posted. This might be before your latest alterations.
The highlighted timber needs shortening otherwise it will clash with your brick 3, or perhaps remove it and let that timber appear in brick 3.
Steve
 
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Steve

Thanks again, I printed out brick 3 yesterday afternoon. When I came back I noticed it had not printed properly at one end due to conflicts, too many partial templates and not enough chair heaving.

I had wrongly assumed when I shortened a timber it also took away the chair. I think I now have Brick 3 sorted, and ready to print. Now to try and resolve brick 2. Thankfully most bricks are much simpler than 2 to 4

Earlier in this thread it mentions turning on Ironing in Cura, is this now automatic or do we still have to turn it on ?
 
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Steve

Thanks again, I printed out brick 3 yesterday afternoon. When I came back I noticed it had not printed properly at one end due to conflicts, too many partial templates and not enough chair heaving.

I had wrongly assumed when I shortened a timber it also took away the chair. I think I now have Brick 3 sorted, and ready to print. Now to try and resolve brick 2. Thankfully most bricks are much simpler than 2 to 4

Earlier in this thread it mentions turning on Ironing in Cura, is this now automatic or do we still have to turn it on ?
@Hayfield

Hi John,

If you are using the printer profile for the Kingroon which I posted, ironing is turned on already. It makes a smoother top surface on the timbers (but increases the print time). They still benefit from a light wet sanding with a 400-grit sanding block, followed by a scrub with a nail brush.

You have got me confused (easily done). I thought you were trying 7mm scale now, but you have posted a BOX file for an EM crossover?

cheers,

Martin.
 
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I had wrongly assumed when I shortened a timber it also took away the chair.
@Hayfield

Hi John,

No. To remove a chair you can:

1. omit the rail it is on. or

2. omit the timber it is on. or

3. omit individual chairs from a timber using the chair heaving function (part of the shove timbers function).

A timber can have a maximum of 4 native chairs of its own, identified by the rail it is on, numbered 1 to 4. Any other chairs on a timber have been "captured" from other nearby or overlaid templates because they are wholly contained within the timber area. For example by extending the length of the timber across under an adjacent template.

Those captured chairs need to be "released" from the timber which owns them by:

1. hiding its outline -- click hide outline in the timber shoving. or

2. shortening its length from under them -- click shorten in the timber shoving.

Chairs which have more than one rail through them, such as check rail chairs, "belong" to the stock rail if there is one, or to the main road running rail (rail number 3) if there isn't.

Don't leave the timbers overlapping, otherwise Templot will get in a muddle trying to draw the timbers, and the mesh-fixing won't be able to fix it. Likewise don't have any duplicated templates in the BOX file. They don't matter much for printed paper templates, but they will wreck the 3D output.

cheers,

Martin.
 
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Hi John,
before printing brick 2 (orange) , delete PR129 (orange) as it overlaps your brick 3 (purple) by duplicating PR138 (purple) and in fact PR139 (purple).
Here I have opened the Box and then clicked on Show box list then scrolled and selected PR129 (orange), which has then highlighted that template on the trackpad in white
1712050006046.png

which shows that it should not be part of your orange (or puce) brick

Steve
 
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