Experimental 3D plug track - up to version 244c

[Paul Boyd]

Hi Paul,
That's interesting if I am not mistaken that's one of the first affordable DLP printers on the market. Certainly Elegoo's first venture into DLP technology.
Will be interesting to see if you get any advantages over the LCD versions we are all currently using.
Of some note is the choice of Elegoo, not to go with Chitubox as the slicer, partly because there no longer wedded to the Chitubox LCD screen.
Nothing stopping you using Chitubox as your slicer though.
Also you quite right the build plate setup is very similar to any FDM in that regard.
cheers
Phil,

Hi Phil,

It’s actually the MSLA version that I’ve ordered although I did come across the DLP version. The LCD technology seems to be well understood and hopefully some of the settings suggestions here will work. The Elegoo models are all a bit confusing though!

Yep, “I’ve ordered”! Along with the resin that Martin gave a very well-timed link to.

I’m now going to get stressed by Amazon until I have both in my hands - I can see the usual tour of the estate asking if anyone has my delivery!

Cheers,
Paul

 

[genixia]

I actually have a UV light box from the days when I used to make my own circuit boards in the meantime though.

That should work, most PCV exposure UV lamps are 390-400nm wavelength, the same as what consumer resins need.

Another thought, for those looking to cure chairs. Does your printer have a test or clean utility that allows you to run the UV LEDs without printing? Put the (cleaned) chairs in a clean resin tank with some water and try it. Apparently water does two things. First, it prevents oxygen from reaching any resin. The cure should be faster in the absence of oxygen. Second, it helps refract light around the model allowing an even cure.

Extra resin tanks are cheaper than cure machines, and take up much less space. Obviously this will only work for shallow models (such as the chairs) that are less high than the tank depth. It may not be a suitable method for a print farm, but for people just printing a few turnouts it might be just the ticket.

Even if your printer doesn't have a test/clean utility, nothing stops you from creating a "print" of a solid slab model and running that without your build plate attached.

 

[NoIdea]

I found some time to play with Templot again last night. Before I invest in any printer hardware I thought I'd get to grips with the outputs.

The sleepers will be printed on an FDM printer so I used the following settings:

My expectation was that I could import the resulting file to Autodesk DWG TrueView 2024 but I don't see anything. How do you guys do this? Is it a DXF file for FDM and STL for a resin printer?

Martin

 

[Martin Wynne]

@NoIdea

Hi Martin,

The DXF file is for laser cutting.

For 3-D printing select STL.

It's unlikely that you have an FDM printer without a heated bed, so select 3-D FDM hot for FDM printing, and 3-D resin for resin printing. The only difference is in the shrinkage settings applied to the dimensions in the output.

For the next program update I have made it a bit clearer:

When you click the export button for STL output you will be taken to the 3D Builder app to perform a mesh fix for 3D printing. See:

https://85a.uk/templot/club/index.php?threads/experimental-plug-track-continued.673/post-7583

For 3D printing you do not need to go anywhere near your CAD program. Why were you expecting to do that? I have been fighting as hard as I can to prevent the idea gaining ground that Templot plug track requires CAD skills, but I seem to have failed.

cheers,

Martin.

 

[Steve_Cornford]

STL for both FDM and Resin printing.
but will need mesh fixing, Martin has proved a link to free software that provides the fix, then just slice the result and print.
The DFX option is for 2D usage, eg laser cutting g ply timbers.
Steve

 

[Phil G]

I have been fighting as hard as I can to prevent the idea gaining ground that Templot plug track requires CAD skills, but I seem to have failed.

Hi Martin,
Just a quick thought, Maybe people are not using cad for the purpose of true cad but simply as a means of viewing STL files,
I know you have added a link to 3D builder expressly for the purpose of viewing the STL files. However if people are not fully aware of this function. It could very well explain the drive to resort to cad systems. Autodesk TrueView is really a cad viewing tool more than a cad package as such. similar to 3D viewer in fact.
cheers
Phil

 

[NoIdea]

Thanks Martin.

The use of a CAD program was down to my complete ignorance as I didn't understand the use of the different types of files. The dialog mentions CAD twice. Perhaps two groups - CAD and Plug Track - on the dialog would make that more obvious?

Cheers!

Martin

 

[Martin Wynne]

I'm actually intrigued by how simple the cleaning process is

@Paul Boyd @James Walters

Hi Paul,

The simple brush wash in small tubs described by James is fine for most normal 3D printing, but for the plug track chairs you need something more vigorous.

I plunge the build plate up and down several times in a bucket or bowl of water, quite forcefully (taking care not to hit the chairs on the bottom).

The idea is to force the water through the tiny pin slots in each chair. It's important to remove any uncured resin from those slots, for every single one of over 200 chairs on the build plate, otherwise when you come to fit the loose jaws you will find some of the slots are clogged. Been there, got the T-shirt.

Like "no CAD needed" I suspect this vigorous washing is another thing I shall be mentioning over and over again for the rest of my life.

cheers,

Martin.

 

[Martin Wynne]

Hi Martin,
Just a quick thought, Maybe people are not using cad for the purpose of true cad but simply as a means of viewing STL files,
I know you have added a link to 3D builder expressly for the purpose of viewing the STL files. However if people are not fully aware of this function. It could very well explain the drive to resort to cad systems. Autodesk TrueView is really a cad viewing tool more than a cad package as such. similar to 3D viewer in fact.
cheers
Phil

@Phil G

Hi Phil,

That's what the preview button is for. It takes you to your preferred viewer, which for STL files is the excellent (free) 3D-Tool program:

Full details of how to install it appear if you don't already have it.

cheers,

Martin.

 

[Martin Wynne]

Thanks Martin.

The use of a CAD program was down to my complete ignorance as I didn't understand the use of the different types of files. The dialog mentions CAD twice. Perhaps two groups - CAD and Plug Track - on the dialog would make that more obvious?

Cheers!

Martin

@NoIdea

Thanks Martin.

This is another problem I've been battling against -- folks expecting an experimental function to be ready for use as a normal computer program. I need all the output options so that I can test stuff as I develop plug track.

When/if it is all finished, I will put the stuff for laser cutting in green on the far left of the screen, the stuff for resin printing in yellow in the middle of the screen, and the stuff for FDM printing in blue on the far right of the screen.

cheers,

Martin.

 

[Paul Boyd]

The idea is to force the water through the tiny pin slots in each chair. It's important to remove any uncured resin from those slots, for every single one of over 200 chairs on the build plate, otherwise when you come to fit the loose jaws you will find some of the slots are clogged. Been there, got the T-shirt.

Like "no CAD needed" I suspect this vigorous washing is another thing I shall be mentioning over and over again for the rest of my life.

Hi Martin,

In all honesty, it'll probably be a while before I get to plug track for an actual layout, especially as you keep telling us not to use it yet for that purpose! I do have other projects though for which the brush method should be fine. The next likely "real" plug track project will be the rebuild of the bullhead sections of my narrow gauge layout from S4n2 to 4n27, so effectively 3mm scale chairs (unless you have 4mm scale PQR chairs on your list somewhere ). I will be trying it out with 4mm scale stuff before that though, of course, as that's what most of the experimenting has been using so far.

I wonder if an ultrasonic cleaner would be sufficient to clear unused resin from the slots? The way to find out is for me to try it with the little jewellery cleaner we have at work! Otherwise, a bucket of water and plunging is no great hardship.

Cheers,
Paul

 

[Martin Wynne]

In all honesty, it'll probably be a while before I get to plug track for an actual layout, especially as you keep telling us not to use it yet for that purpose!

@Paul Boyd @James Walters

Hi Paul,

James has just spent the weekend telling the world the opposite, so I need to make up my mind.

cheers,

Martin.

 

[Phil G]

Hi Phil,

That's what the preview button is for. It takes you to your preferred viewer, which for STL files is the excellent (free) 3D-Tool program:

Hi Martin,
I know, I did not say anything about I am using cad. I was simply offering a likely reason as to why the endless cad comments.

re Paul's comments, and your reply, I am with Jame's 100%, Plug track in my opinion is ready to use. There is a steep learning curve if you have not been following the posts and the continuous evolutionary improvements that are ongoing.
However I think its reached a point where the more people that use it, the more comments it will create, and the more training will be required. However as Steve Cornford has pointed out quite a few times now. It not incumbent on all the training to fall on your shoulder's.

What I would say however is a picture or better still a movie speaks a thousand words. So for me at least the first few Zoom meetings should be heavily plug track related. They will also need posting to this site, even if they do get a bit off track during the meeting. (guilty of that I am afraid)
After all there an invaluable source of reference, even if there is some rambling by viewers.
Cheers
Phil,

 

[Phil G]

Hi James,
How was S4um? I understand you have been very busy fielding many curious comments.
I hope everything your did and put into the weekend, was well received.
Cheers
Phil,

 

[NoIdea]

This is another problem I've been battling against -- folks expecting an experimental function to be ready for use as a normal computer program. I need all the output options so that I can test stuff as I develop plug track.

I completely understand Martin. I've been a software developer since 1979.

I'm now exporting and previewing STL files only. Any CAD apps have been uninstalled.

Previewing my simple plain piece of track appears correctly, I think:

When I select:

And:

I get:

I'm not seeing either chair plugs and/or sprues. Is there another setting or process involved?

Cheers!

Martin

 

[Martin Wynne]

The simple brush wash in small tubs described by James is fine for most normal 3D printing, but for the plug track chairs you need something more vigorous.

I plunge the build plate up and down several times in a bucket or bowl of water, quite forcefully (taking care not to hit the chairs on the bottom).

The idea is to force the water through the tiny pin slots in each chair. It's important to remove any uncured resin from those slots, for every single one of over 200 chairs on the build plate, otherwise when you come to fit the loose jaws you will find some of the slots are clogged. Been there, got the T-shirt.

@Paul Boyd

Hi Paul,

I forgot to mention that I used warm water for washing the Anycubic resin yesterday. I don't know if the temperature of the wash water is significant, but I suspect warm water works better than stone cold, especially in the depths of winter.

I also added a few drops of washing-up liquid to the final clean wash. That helps with the rapid drying. According to the Anycubic docs the parts need to be fully dry before curing.

cheers,

Martin.

 

[Martin Wynne]

I completely understand Martin. I've been a software developer since 1979.

I'm now exporting and previewing STL files only. Any CAD apps have been uninstalled.

Previewing my simple plain piece of track appears correctly, I think:

View attachment 6909

When I select:

View attachment 6910

And:

View attachment 6911

I get:

View attachment 6912

I'm not seeing either chair plugs and/or sprues. Is there another setting or process involved?

Cheers!

Martin

@NoIdea

Hi Martin,

You haven't switched on experimental chairing for that template:

Like all settings in the real menu, that option is template-specific. After changing the settings for the control template, you need to store the template as a background template. Only background templates can be exported.

Sorry I can't explain everything there in one reply. It will all eventually be in a user guide, but until then you need to read back through this and previous topics to get up to speed.

cheers,

Martin.

 

[Paul Boyd]

@Paul Boyd

Hi Paul,

I forgot to mention that I used warm water for washing the Anycubic resin yesterday. I don't know if the temperature of the wash water is significant, but I suspect warm water works better than stone cold, especially in the depths of winter.

I also added a few drops of washing-up liquid to the final clean wash. That helps with the rapid drying. According to the Anycubic docs the parts need to be fully dry before curing.

cheers,

Martin.

Hi Martin, that makes sense about using warm water. One thing I have picked up is the importance of making sure it’s really dry before curing. I’m getting quite excited now, not just for plug track! I use Shapeways professionally as well as personally for other stuff and their prices seem to be rising significantly.

Anyway, apparently the resin you recommended yesterday is arriving today, if it actually gets to the right address, and the printer tomorrow. I’ve also ordered some resin filters but apparently coffee filters are fine for filtering the water before disposing of it (after curing any resin residue).

Cheers,
Paul

 

[Hayfield]

Sorry this is not very technical but I thought I would show a couple of photos I took at Scaleforum on James demo stand

As well as the 3D printed timbers and chairs, centre left the vee filing jig we know about but top left and right are the switch filing jigs

The Jig for the switch backs (left) are much the same as the vee jig

This is the jig to file the rail head off, as you can see it has an angled filing face, which in my opinion is pure genius

Kneeling on the floor giving the jigs a trial was neither the best position or the most comfortable place to give these jigs a try

In short the jig for the rail backs was quick and easy to use, given a bit of practice and a better working environment this is a super bit of tooling

The result of using the left hand jig, again giving the conditions very quick though as you are filing at an angle a little more difficult to use

The view from the top, as I said I was kneeling on the floor with a not very good clamp. Given these circumstances absolute brilliant results were produced, Martin well done and thank you

My own findings are its the best switch rail jig I have ever used

Both Jigs could do with a grove to align both tips of the rail . A start line
If the jig for filing the head was flat and the rail angled it would be easier to use
Where the rail is thread in was slightly enlarged, it would be easier to thread the rail
I found the material used slightly blocked up the file, un like the Vee jig I earlier used which was made from a brown compound, which
seemingly was not making plastic filings in use

Marking the piece of work A*

 

[Martin Wynne]

@Hayfield

Many thanks John.

I sent a small G-clamp with the jigs for James to use on the corner of his table, you shouldn't have needed to kneel on the floor!

I don't think I sent matching front and back jigs, did I? I think the back was for an A switch and the front was for a C switch, so in theory the back-filed rail shouldn't have fitted in the front jig. I intended to send the C back jig, but it was a poor print due to problems with the filament, and there wasn't time to print another. I did send a finished C blade with the jig.

The end of the blade should be 20mm from the end of the jig. It's difficult to FDM-print a thin mark line. The idea is that you mark your own line 20mm from the end using a Stanley knife blade to scribe a thin cut across the jig.

I also noticed that the Jayo Grey filament seemed less resistant to filing than the eSun brown filament. So I shall be returning to that for the jigs. It's just a bit inconvenient that it's not such a good colour for the timbers, which means if you have only one printer you will be constantly swapping the filament over.

I tried to have the front jig with the rail tilted and the filing surface horizontal, but it made problems in the slicer software, and fitting the bolts through. Since all sizes use the same 17.5 degrees angle, the solution is to make a separate holder for the jigs which holds the jig at 17.5 degrees so that the filing surface is horizontal. I'm working on that, but I didn't get it finished in time. This is the problem all along -- there is so much still to do before the whole thing is really ready.

I noticed in your photo that you have the corner of the wing-nut fouling the file when filing the angle. It's important to turn both wing nuts so that the one on the low side is horizontal.

All this stuff will be written up in the instructions eventually. I did post some notes about using the jigs recently -- here they are again:

---

The jigs are used by clamping the rails in the slots with the M6 bolts, with enough rail protruding to be filed off at the required angle. The assembled jig can be held in a bench vice, or G-clamped onto the corner of a table through the large opening in each one.

Before finally tightening the bolts, check that both halves of the jig are flush with each other along the filing surface.

Use a good quality 2nd-cut engineer's flat file, and lightly finish with a flat 400-grit sanding block. The file will barely harm the jig, but the sanding block can do, so it is used lightly just to remove the filing scratches from the metal, so that the rails can fit snugly together.

Unless it is a very expensive file, it is unlikely to be dead straight. Looking along it you will likely detect that it is fractionally curved. If so, use the convex side for best results on the jig.

While filing, brush away the filings between every few strokes. The file itself won't harm the jig, but rubbing metal filings into the surface will do. Fully disassemble the jig after each use, so that you can remove any filings or other debris from the slots. The jigs will last for a great many filed rails, but being plastic, they need to be treated with care -- otherwise you will soon be printing a replacement.

---

1. The crossing jig makes both point and splice rails by turning the rail the other way up. They are opposites for the opposite hands of a V-crossing. The point rail forming the nose of the vee goes on the main side (MS) of the crossing.

After filing, the point rail should be blunted back to a width of 0.25mm (10 thou) at the tip by trimming with sharp snips and sanding smooth. When correct it should slide into the "A" chair and stop with the nose just on the far edge of the chair. Check it is the right way up and hand for the "A" chair, LH and RH chairs are handed.

The splice rail is not blunted back, but it's a good idea to remove the tiny feather of metal which remains from the rail web at the tip. The rail should slide up to the point rail and fit snugly against it.

The rails will only fit snugly if they have been filed using filing jigs exactly matching the crossing angle -- hence including the jigs in Templot.

---

2. The switch blade back jig should be used first to prepare the backs of the blades. Again turning the other way up for the opposite side of the switch. The final tip of the blade will be at exactly 20mm from the end of the jig, so you probably want to start with the rail at about 19mm before filing. After filing, mark it at 20mm with a permanent marker.

Clamp the M6 bolt very lightly at the toe end of the switch jigs, just enough to restrain the rail sideways. If clamped too tightly it is likely to push the rail up away from the jig and prevent an accurate angle being filed. The heel end with the full slots can be clamped tightly to prevent the rail shifting.

---

3. The switch blade front jigs are separate jigs for left and right switch blades. This "left and right" refers to the sides of the switch looking from the toe, NOT the hand of the turnout.

Insert the rail with the back already filed so that the mark is again exactly 20mm from the end. The jig is designed to accept the angle filed on the back at that rail position. That's the theory. In practice because of FDM printing variations you might find tweaking it a little forward or back fits best. Again clamp very lightly at this end.

The jig allows you to file across the head of the rail at 17.5 degrees, producing a sharp tip at the toe and leaving most of the rail foot intact. Make sure you have the correct rail the correct way up. The filed end will be sharp -- keep some Elastoplast handy.

If you mark along the rail with marker pen before starting, you can see where you have filed. The filing should run out at a filing length of 29.3mm for B blades, i.e. at 49.3mm from the end of the jig. Mark this position on the blade.

---

4. The final task is to make a very slight bend in the rail at that position, towards the centre of the track, until the filed top front running edge aligns in a straight line with the remainder of the rail. This is best seen by eyeing along the rail, but don't poke yourself in the eye with the sharp tip.

For the curved switch blade, do this first before curving the rail to match the template.

There are likely to be some burrs on the filed edges which can be fettled with fine abrasive paper. Do this on the bottom of the blades before assembly, and after assembly for the running top of the blade so that it blends in against the stock rail.

cheers,

Martin.

 

[Hayfield]

Martin

Thanks very much for all the work you have and are doing, I apricated these are prototypes and are under development, as for the show and being on my knees, its just was the way it was. I was helping out on the C&L stand and did not really get time until Sunday, James was up to his neck all day with very excited modellers, even the diehard "Templot is too hard to use" group were changing their tune.

Whilst most will not be layout planning in the near future, all those I spoke with seemed to accept the benefits of what Templot can both achieve and produce, even though its a system still in development. You should be rightly be proud of just how far Templot has come.

What was good was that Pendon was demonstrating their building techniques two positions away, using old school methods to the same ends of modern methods

 

[James Walters]

Hello everyone,

My head is only just starting to stop spinning after what was a very busy weekend at S4um. As John and Phil have noted, Plug Track was very well received indeed. I barely had chance to catch my breath all weekend.
I had an email from a S4 elder-statesman today who very kindly said he though I was man of the match! Of course, this high-praise was really for plug track, as that is what was drawing all the interest, but I'll take it on your behalf Martin. Thank you sincerely for giving the rookie the chance to share the work of the expert.

...

Martin, an apology...I didn't notice the G clamp in the box. In fairness, I was fairly overwhelmed from before official opening until well after closing on both days and never actually had the time to finish setting-up!! I did find the GF clamp in the box at the end of the show however whilst packing away.

Many thanks to John, who not only bought me over my only cup of tea on the Saturday, but also managed to escape the C&L stand regularly to help out with the Plug Track display.

Feedback was exclusively positive, a couple of minor suggestions which I will communicate to Martin privately first, but no criticisms at all. As John mentioned there were many folks who had previously not had a fun time with Templot saying they'd return to it and make the time to actually learn how to use it.
For the benefit of Templot Club members who were not able to visit S4um, I can confirm that the quality of Martin's 3d printed parts are truly excellent. The filing Jigs are especially well thought through and the print finish quality superb.

I'll report back a little more once I've properly decompressed, but the phrases 'game-changing' and 'Martin is a genius' were used so often.
There was even very keen interest from a certain track building maestro, who seemed really impressed by the system.

Having shown how to extract the 3d files so many times over the weekend and field the same questions over and over, I think I can confidently put together a starter-guide to help the complete novice to access this exciting aspect of Templot quickly and efficiently.

I had put together a little diorama to showcase the finetrax kit, which I had previously made. Next to the level crossing gates I'd included a billboard displaying a vintage ad. Sadly no one noticed it, so I'll include it here as a bit of fun...

Finally, I've been filming a video review of the Alkaid printer today. Surely it can't be any good for less than £90 delivered?
It jolly well is. In fact I'd say it was an ideal resin printer for Plug Track.

More to follow...

James

 

[Martin Wynne]

@Paul Boyd

I'm pleased to report 100% success with the Anycubic water-washable ABS-Like resin.

I ignored the recommended resin settings and used the exact same settings I've been using on the Mars and Alkaid printers with the Elegoo resin. The recommended settings were for Anycubic printers, and since I don't have one of those, there didn't seem much logic in sticking to them.

Printed on the Mars I can't detect much difference from the Elegoo resin in the finished chairs. The pins fit nicely in the slots, and the clip-fit tangs open and close when compressed in the digital caliper. The rafts and chairs feel equally strong to handle.

The only differences are:

1. slightly darker grey and less translucent than Elegoo. This is a good thing I think -- easier to paint and photograph. But I gave it a longer cure in the Mercury unit (18 minutes in total) to allow for being less translucent.

2. as claimed by Anycubic, there is less shrinkage than the Elegoo resin, resulting in the chairs being fractionally larger than the design size. This presents a problem in setting the default shrinkage in Templot, if folks will be using different resins. You can enter any shrinkage you like, but measuring it to enter is tricky. The shrinkage is however far less than the specs for both resins, when making chairs. It's likely more applicable if resin-printing full thick timbering.

I note on the Anycubic web site that this resin will withstand 3 years of outdoor exposure unpainted, without cracking. Which is more good news. What happens after 4 years it doesn't say. I think I would paint it anyway.

A bowl of used wash water is now outside waiting for the sun to come out.

The only bad news in all this is that I have a new unopened bottle of Elegoo resin in the cupboard.

Martin.

Another difference has become apparent. These Anycubic rafts are curling up even more than the Elegoo rafts. I noticed last night that they were already quite curled -- at least the Elegoo rafts usually wait until the next day.

This probably means that I'm doing something wrong. Possibly they need more curing time on the back of the rafts.

It doesn't really matter -- it hardly affects the chairs or using them. It's just annoying and if I needed flat rafts for some reason it would be a problem. Some time ago I did try taping a raft down to a bit of board straight after curing, and when released a week later it stayed flat. What to make of that I'm not sure haven't the faintest idea.

Martin.

 

[Phil O]

Hi,

After seeing the 3d prints, that James had at Scaleforum, of not only the chairs, but also his wagons, although I didn't get a chance to discuss them, with all the Templot 3d interest, I am going to spend a chunk of my pension on Wednesday and get the cheapy 3d printer that seems to have passed Martin's initial testing.

James, please stand by for some stupid novice questions, from the newbie to 3d printing, but more importantly 3d CAD, unless Martin is going very much off track and introducing experimental 3d wagons to experimental 3d track building.

Martin the last is very much tongue in cheek and in no way do I expect you to change course on this exceptional change to bespoke track building. If people are prepared to invest some time in learning Templot, I see no reason why anyone would bother buying off the shelf S and C and is prepared to make the initial outlay in a printer. Oh, they may also need to purchase some rail and some resin and or filament.

A massive leap forward over the last couple or three years.

Thanks.

 

[Phil G]

Finally, I've been filming a video review of the Alkaid printer today. Surely it can't be any good for less than £90 delivered?
It jolly well is. In fact I'd say it was an ideal resin printer for Plug Track.

Hi James,
Just a thought, would you consider being an Alkaid agent? As part of your online shop maybe.
If so it would keep you very much in line to keep abreast of future developments form GeeeTech
Alas I was going to get one of these printers as for that price more than one is viable. Unfortunately whilst the price in NZ is still 99US the shipping from China to New Zealand is 249 US which makes it very similar to a Mars 3 sold locally
cheers
Phil,

 

[James Walters]

Hi Phil,

It was great to meet you face to face at the weekend, and I would have loved to chat with you about the other bits and pieces which I had bought along as conversation starters. But as you saw first hand, there was quite a demand for the Plug Track. And rightly so.

I'm really happy to chat with you at some point about 3d CAD more generally, although it must be emphasised for the benefit of others who might read this thread that Templot Plug Track requires no CAD skills at all!

I'm quite confident with 3d CAD, and will admit that at first I was thinking that Templot would just be a source of data which I'd export into my preferred CAD software, as naturally I'd be able to do more out of it myself if I tinkered with the output.
Oh how wrong I was. The more I experiment with Templot, the greater my understanding of just how clever it is grows.

The joy of Templot is that as a tool, it does exactly what it needs to do and I don't need to bother with 3D CAD, which creates extra time for more wagons.

Hope to see you in the zoom on Wednesday, we can chat wagons then if there's a chance.

 

[James Walters]

Hi James,
Just a thought, would you consider being an Alkaid agent? As part of your online shop maybe.
If so it would keep you very much in line to keep abreast of future developments form GeeeTech
Alas I was going to get one of these printers as for that price more than one is viable. Unfortunately whilst the price in NZ is still 99US the shipping from China to New Zealand is 249 US which makes it very similar to a Mars 3 sold locally
cheers
Phil,

Hi Phil,

I would love to be an Alkaid agent. I could would have sold lots last weekend.
I'm not too sure how one becomes an agent though.

My first print with the machine (a test before I videoed a print) was 3 SECR goods brake wagons. They're perfect. P4 wheelsets and bearings snap right in. I am delighted with it, and would recommend them all day long.

I also strongly suspect that the 2k screen is likely much more robust than the new breed of 12k machines. As someone who 3d prints items at a reasonable volume this is a significant consideration. I also prefer the display over my Elegoo machines.

James

 

[Phil G]

I'm not too sure how one becomes an agent though.

Hi James,
It maybe as simple as mention it in your video, Geeetech will likely pick it up. After all there seems to be a real trend for online suppliers to use YouTube channels as outlets; The Alkaid does seem to have hit a sweet spot for modellers for sure.
cheers
Phil,

 

[Martin Wynne]

I am going to spend a chunk of my pension on Wednesday and get the cheapy 3d printer that seems to have passed Martin's initial testing.

@Phil O @James Walters

To save searching, my first report on the Alkaid 3D printer is here:

https://85a.uk/templot/club/index.php?threads/experimental-plug-track-continued.673/post-7708

For more details, James is doing a video review soon, see:

https://www.youtube.com/@BexhillWest

If you haven't got a spare USB extension cable, add this to your next Amazon order:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00DX59EAG

This brings the USB socket round to the front of the machine, instead of fumbling at the back of it to insert the USB stick each time.

For ordering details for the printer in the UK, see my post here:

https://85a.uk/templot/club/index.php?threads/experimental-plug-track-continued.673/post-7775

Put some soothing music on and remain calm, and it will be fine.

cheers,

Martin.

 

[Winander]

I wonder if an ultrasonic cleaner would be sufficient to clear unused resin from the slots

I have read that 40KHz (the 'standard' frequency) may be too fierce for 3D prints, although I have also read that people do use them to clean prints. I think it is probably sits alongside 'would you use an ultrasonic cleaner filled with IPA?'. With no experience, I imagine that the delicacy of the print is a factor.

Dual frequency, 28/40 KHz are available

Richard

 

[Paul Boyd]

I have read that 40KHz (the 'standard' frequency) may be too fierce for 3D prints, although I have also read that people do use them to clean prints. I think it is probably sits alongside 'would you use an ultrasonic cleaner filled with IPA?'. With no experience, I imagine that the delicacy of the print is a factor.

Dual frequency, 28/40 KHz are available

Richard

Thanks Richard, that’s something to keep in mind.

 

[Trevor]

Hello,
I put in an order for the Alkaid 3D printer a Washing Curing machine and a bottle of resin from GeeeTech.When I tried to pay with Paypal the transaction did not complete and the screen just went blank.The order was listed as outstanding and unpaid. I tried a number of times and they all failed in the same way. The orders were deleted after 3 days as not being paid. I checked with Paypal by phone.They monitored while I tried to complete payment and advised me the problem was at GeeeTechs end.GeeTech said I could pay by Stripe or credit card. I was reluctant to pay as I have never heard of Stripe and credit card payment seemed rather risky when Paypal does not work despite being listed as a payment method. I would be interested if anyone else is able to pay with Paypal in the UK as it is a mystery why Paypal will not work for me on their site.It has worked ok previously and since when making purchases with other companies.
Trevor

 

[James Walters]

Hi Trevor,
I can’t help with your situation really, but can confirm that Stripe is a reputable card payment system. I use it on my own little shop. I’ve never had an issue, and it is very good at picking up fraudulent payments.
I’d say go ahead and use Stripe. It’s ok.

Best,

James

 

[Paul Boyd]

Hello,
I put in an order for the Alkaid 3D printer a Washing Curing machine and a bottle of resin from GeeeTech.When I tried to pay with Paypal the transaction did not complete and the screen just went blank.The order was listed as outstanding and unpaid. I tried a number of times and they all failed in the same way. The orders were deleted after 3 days as not being paid. I checked with Paypal by phone.They monitored while I tried to complete payment and advised me the problem was at GeeeTechs end.GeeTech said I could pay by Stripe or credit card. I was reluctant to pay as I have never heard of Stripe and credit card payment seemed rather risky when Paypal does not work despite being listed as a payment method. I would be interested if anyone else is able to pay with Paypal in the UK as it is a mystery why Paypal will not work for me on their site.It has worked ok previously and since when making purchases with other companies.
Trevor

Hi Trevor,
Stripe is one of the biggest card payment companies out there so is safe. You’ve probably used it many times without even being aware. It’s also much safer to pay by credit card than Paypal as your card company will give you a higher level of protection. (Not necessarily as much, if any, protection with a debit card though.

All in all, in that situation I would pay by credit card.

Cheers,
Paul

 

[Martin Wynne]

@Trevor @James Walters

Hi Trevor,

I used PayPal and it worked fine. Delivered within 2 days, apparently from:

4PX Express Online Seller (phone 02081 278528)
Leicester Commercial Park Unit 1
Dorsey Way
LE19 4DB

But a few points:

1. Create and login to a Geeetech user account first. That includes entering your delivery address, and no doubt PayPal will check that it matches your address known to them. If you don't do it first before ordering, they may not get that information from Geeetech.

2. If you also ordered the washer and resin bundle, the whole order will be coming from China. If you want a fast UK delivery, order the printer only. They don't tell you this, but you can see the shipping source change as you click the various options. Other makes of washers and resins are readily available in the UK, and we have found better resins for making chairs than the standard resin bundled with printers.

I hope this helps. It all went fine for me -- the printer arrived quickly, well packed and in perfect condition.

if you live anywhere near Leicester, you might be able to give them a ring and go and collect one.

cheers,

Martin.

 

[James Walters]

As a further incentive to go down the Alkaid printer route, I printed these yesterday. Not quite as good as the Saturn 2, but once painted no-one would be able to tell the difference.

Btw, it’s a SECR goods brake van.

The top photo looks a bit wonky, but that’s the camera angle, the print itself is square.

 

[Martin Wynne]

@James Walters

Hi James,

I think you meant Saturn, not Neptune?

Which resin is that? What settings? I ignored the Alkaid recommended settings, the results from those were very poor. Instead I used the exact same settings which I use on the Mars, and the results were fine -- as you saw at the weekend. That was with the Elegoo ABS-Like resin.

cheers,

Martin.

 

[James Walters]

Yes, sorry Martin I meant to say Saturn.

These were printed with Anycubic ABS like resin with the default print settings. As I was filming a review I thought I best use the default settings. These were genuinely my first print with the machine

 

[Martin Wynne]

@James Walters

Thanks James.

I think I spy what may be a significant difference -- you are using Chitubox 1.9.4 -- I'm using Chitubox 1.6.5

I tried upgrading to 1.9.5 but discovered that it needs an upgrade to the Chitu Systems firmware on the Mars, which I haven't yet done. So I've continued with 1.6.5 for now as the results are fine. Presumably the Alkaid has the upgraded firmware and would work fine with 1.9.5 as you have shown. So maybe I will try that.

I'm hoping beginners don't get to read through this sort of discussion because it's very likely to put them off the whole thing.

cheers,

Martin.

 

[Trevor]

Hello,
I ordered the printer from GeeeTech successfully. I ordered washer curing machine also both in the uk supposedly.
I ordered some IPA on Amazon. I also ordered some water washable resin so should be good to go when it all lands up.
I didn't use Paypal and things went fine with GeeTech
Trevor