Experimental 3D plug track - up to version 244c

[Phil G]

Hi Martin,
yes I agree to some extant, although you are also switching between the two templates to ensure there is only one timber that carries all the required chair socket holes. So your saying we also have to remember the snib naming will change relative to the overall project we are trying to achieve? That strikes me as being very complicated.
cheers
Phil,

 

[Phil G]

Hi Martin,
On reflexion I can't think of a better way to do this, as its more about when does a crossover timbering fret become more of a template in its own right? The most obvious answer is once its been exported out of Templot, to whatever is being used as the control software for the laser.
cheers
Phil

 

[Martin Wynne]

Hi Martin,
yes I agree to some extant, although you are also switching between the two templates to ensure there is only one timber that carries all the required chair socket holes. So your saying we also have to remember the snib naming will change relative to the overall project we are trying to achieve? That strikes me as being very complicated.
cheers
Phil,

@Phil G

Hi Phil,

Give it a try -- you will soon get the hang of it.

If you click the wrong box and the wrong snib disappears, it is not exactly difficult to click it again to get it back, and then click the other one.

I don't know how I can make it any simpler. I'm still waiting for a young IT guru to turn up with an AI-empowered version of Templot which does everything, and you just say "Martina, make me the timbering base for a B-8 crossover on 1600mm radius in EM" and the file is on the printer before you can take the top off a boiled egg.

I could then put my feet up.

Martin.

 

[Martin Wynne]

@James Walters

Another video, 2 more tick-boxes:

@James Walters

Well 3 actually.

There will be cases where the snib-links don't work. For example snib-link X above would conflict with the next sleeper which is at close rail-joint spacing.

In such cases you can add a background line shape 1 instead.

And if the new add lines as 2D kerf lines box is ticked first, any line shapes added will be marked as 2D kerf lines. Meaning they will go in the 2D exports in the green KERFTIMB layer, and it is not necessary to switch on the background shapes layer for the 2D DXF export. They will not appear in 3D exports, or in the 2D background shapes layer.

This can also be used to add any other 2D cut lines wanted, such as a panel boundary at 2 , 3 , 4 above.

On the trackpad above these lines are shown in violet to distinguish them from other background line shapes. In the DXF they are green as the KERFTIMB outlines:

This way you can keep these kerf lines in the same BGS3 file as the raft rectangles for the chairs, or other background shapes wanted in the export.

cheers,

Martin.

 

[James Walters]

Fantastic, that's all one would need for laser cut timbering.


Would anything unexpected happen with the snib links if a template was shortened or blanked?

Best,
James

 

[Martin Wynne]

Fantastic, that's all one would need for laser cut timbering.


Would anything unexpected happen with the snib links if a template was shortened or blanked?

Best,
James

@James Walters

Hi James,

The snib settings and snib-links are associated with a specific timber. So if you remove that timber by shortening the template or blanking, you lose the snib-links and would need to apply them afresh on the new end timber(s). If still wanted of course.

If you later lengthen the template or undo the blanking you would get the original snib-links back, so need to remember to remove the later-added ones.

p.s. in the latest video you referred to pressing 3 or CTRL+F3 for the blanking mouse action. That works fine, but it's easier to click the button:

cheers,

Martin.

 

[James Walters]

Ahh, OK, that makes sense. I should have just waited to have a play before asking a silly question - of course you'd have it covered off.

And yes, you're right about the BLANKING button too, but old habits etc.... I still go into DXF / STL file export via the output menu 9 times out of 10.

 

[Terry Downes]

@James Walters

Well 3 actually.


View attachment 8445


There will be cases where the snib-links don't work. For example snib-link X above would conflict with the next sleeper which is at close rail-joint spacing.

In such cases you can add a background line shape 1 instead.

And if the new add lines as 2D kerf lines box is ticked first, any line shapes added will be marked as 2D kerf lines. Meaning they will go in the 2D exports in the green KERFTIMB layer, and it is not necessary to switch on the background shapes layer for the 2D DXF export. They will not appear in 3D exports.

This can also be used to add any other 2D cut lines wanted, such as a panel boundary at 2 , 3 , 4 above.

On the trackpad above these lines are shown in violet to distinguish them from other background line shapes. In the DXF they are green as the KERFTIMB outlines:
View attachment 8444

This way you can keep these kerf lines in the same BGS3 file as the raft rectangles for the chairs.

cheers,

Martin.

I'm about to start playing with laser cut timbers myself. I'm just wondering whether its possible to utilise the clip function to align several laser cut timber bricks or should this be done outside of Templot?

 

[Martin Wynne]

I'm about to start playing with laser cut timbers myself. I'm just wondering whether its possible to utilise the clip function to align several laser cut timber bricks or should this be done outside of Templot?

@Terry Downes @James Walters

Hi Terry,

You can try, but the consensus is that the FDM connector clips are too small for laser-cutting and would need a lot of trial-and-error on the dimensions.

Instead, the intention is to use removable alignment plates, which locate into the sockets on adjacent laser-cut bases while you fix them in position:

The plates can be one-piece resin prints, or could be laser-cut plates with socket holes to use with the extended locator plugs.

Dummy timbers for the purpose can be added outside the actual track, so that the track can be built in advance on the bench if desired.

More info here and in the following posts, although I haven't tested it lately:

https://85a.uk/templot/club/index.php?threads/experimental-plug-track-continued.673/post-8306

@Steve_Cornford knows about the locator plugs.

cheers,

Martin.

 

[James Walters]

The clips do work, especially with a diode laser as the kerf is very narrow. However, you end-up with the clips being as thick as the timbers and they need cutting away after laying. The locator plugs are a much better solution.
Of course, one could just align timbering bases over engraved cork or printed paper plans, which works well with traditional track building methods, as there is some wiggle-room when it comes to gluing the chairs down.
The tolerances with plug track are such that the locator plugs are simply the better way to do it, as all manner of accuracy issues can occur with cork, from the sheet not laying flat whilst being engraved, to shifting whilst being glued down, to joints not butting together accurately, etc.
I have found (through experimentation) that Loose Outer Jaw chairs are preferable when gluing smaller timbering bases down, as it is possible to temporarily hold rail in place with a few chairs over several bases and sight along the length with a mirror to check all is well. before final gluing.

With FDM bases the clips are brilliant and the alignment issue doesn't arise. My head is still telling me that FDM bases are the way to go, where as my heart prefers the look of laser cut ply timbers. I think it is the clip issue which is controlling my head.

Something I haven't tried yet, but which I think could work really well, would be to laminate 2 pieces of material together when laser cutting bases.
Let's say 1mm thick, with the flanges and clips, and 2mm on top to give a 3mm total thickness for 4mm scale track.
Clearly both bits would need to be cut separately and glued together, with plugs as dowel pins.
It's on my list of things to test and write-up.
When I do, I'll use 3M display mount to glue the bits together and fix them down, as they'll eventually be locked solid by the ballast and PVA. - much less messy than laminating with PVA which will squeeze into the sockets and cause more problems than it solves.

 

[Phil G]

With FDM bases the clips are brilliant and the alignment issue doesn't arise. My head is still telling me that FDM bases are the way to go, where as my heart prefers the look of laser cut ply timbers. I think it is the clip issue which is controlling my head.

H James,
I think if your using the word head for accuracy and heart for aesthetics I would 100% agree with you.
You simply can't argue FDM has the edge on accuracy, especially in the height or Z plan.
That said aesthetics in a model are very important, and as long as it works ( big rider) maybe in the long term more important.
good job we all have choices
cheers
Phil,

 

[James Walters]

I'm not sure I understand. My point was that the FDM clips work, and accuracy in the context of alignment between timbering bases is easy to achieve with the brick clips. I've stuck down many laser cut bases (without clips), and the slightest misalignment is a source of trouble. It's not difficult to get it right, it just needs care.
I wasn't making any point about the accuracy of FDM vs laser bases generally, and certainly not in relation to height (z). That is up to the individual to achieve through experimentation. I have no particular preference, and see advantages to both methods. My head likes the built-in brick clips of FDM, and my heart likes the plywood grain. That's all.

 

[Martin Wynne]

My head likes the built-in brick clips of FDM, and my heart likes the plywood grain.

@James Walters

Hi James,

What power and cost of laser cutter would be needed to cut 0.25mm (10 thou) wood veneer?

To be glued on top of a 2.75mm FDM timbering base?

https://www.woodenave.com/product/paper-thin-wood-veneer/

cheers,

Martin.

 

[James Walters]

Hi Martin,
I would have expected the lowest powered lasers to cut these veneers with no trouble at all.
Something like this 5w machine would work, I'm sure. At £139 it must be one of the cheapest out there.

[BR/EU Direct]TWOTREES® TTS-55 Laser Engraver Upgraded Totem S 40W Engraving Machine 300x300mm Engraving Area 5.5W Laser Module APP Connection Remote Control
https://ban.ggood.vip/14CbG

I would find the 5w a bit limiting for other tasks.

I like the direction of your thinking though.

Best,

James

 

[Phil G]

I'm not sure I understand. My point was that the FDM clips work, and accuracy in the context of alignment between timbering bases is easy to achieve with the brick clips. I've stuck down many laser cut bases (without clips), and the slightest misalignment is a source of trouble. It's not difficult to get it right, it just needs care.
I wasn't making any point about the accuracy of FDM vs laser bases generally, and certainly not in relation to height (z). That is up to the individual to achieve through experimentation. I have no particular preference, and see advantages to both methods. My head likes the built-in brick clips of FDM, and my heart likes the plywood grain. That's all.

Sorry,
I must have read far too much into your comments then.
let's just say natural wood looks nicer, but being natural its not quite as dimensionally stable.
That was the Z plane reference.

I like you do see advantages in both methods, and I have not ruled out a composite solution either.

Just out of interest and I am not trying to do anything, other than ask the question here. Have you checked your alignment with P4 track gauges? and are you finding there a useful aid? or not need at all?
cheers
Phil,

 

[James Walters]

I'm getting track which is consistently to gauge. When checked with track gauges, they drop onto the rails with neither squeeze or slop.
Occasionally, I modify the jaws (loose jaw-rail fit) to give a slightly firmer grip on the rail. I have rail from two sources, and both are a slightly different section. But the Loose Jaw controls take care of it. I don't think I adjust anything else other than the kerf, to get good results.
I'd confidently say that once the jaw/rail fit is optimised that gauges are not necessary. But I still use them, all the same.

Here's a picture from a while back. The 0.45 kerf worked with my Co2 laser. I now use the default 0.2 with the diode machine.

 

[Michael Woods]

I'm getting track which is consistently to gauge. When checked with track gauges, they drop onto the rails with neither squeeze or slop.
Occasionally, I modify the jaws (loose jaw-rail fit) to give a slightly firmer grip on the rail. I have rail from two sources, and both are a slightly different section. But the Loose Jaw controls take care of it. I don't think I adjust anything else other than the kerf, to get good results.
I'd confidently say that once the jaw/rail fit is optimised that gauges are not necessary. But I still use them, all the same.

View attachment 8458

Here's a picture from a while back. The 0.45 kerf worked with my Co2 laser. I now use the default 0.2 with the diode machine.

Same in S Gauge - 100% consistency in gauge...which is good as I am making rather alot of track.

 

[Martin Wynne]

I would find the 5w a bit limiting for other tasks.

@James Walters

Hi James,

I'm not sure that I want any other tasks. All I'm looking for is an answer for those who want wood grain on their timbers!

I think perhaps I might get one of these to try on my CNC miller. Not too sure how I would hold thin veneer though.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0CH9RFHX6

cheers,

Martin.

 

[Phil G]

@James Walters

Hi James,

I'm not sure that I want any other tasks. All I'm looking for is an answer for those who want wood grain on their timbers!

I think perhaps I might get one of these to try on my CNC miller. Not too sure how I would hold thin veneer though.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0CH9RFHX6

cheers,

Martin.

Hi Martin,
I have exactly that brand in both 10W and now 20W output. I can confirm the 10W can cut 3 mm ply all be it a bit slowly by higher output standards, so I am sure a 5.5 W would cut at least 1.6mm even if it was in two passes. therefore a 10 thou veneer should be no issue at all.

The P-DA-01interface is very useful for adapting it to other machines. As long as you have a PWM output on your CNC it will interface fine. for a 5,5w you would likely need a 12V by 3A power brick
cheers
Phil

 

[James Walters]

I think you'd soon find lots of other uses for one.
That unit looks ideal to me if it will fit right on your machine, which I'm sure it will. I know a chap who has something similar on his CNC mill and it seems to work a treat. Speed is a bit limiting, but that's the only drawback.
Air assist is very helpful, almost anything will do. An airbrush compressor would be better than nothing. I use a 3hp compressor with my CO2 machine - it was supplied with a fish tank air pump.
I should think that smoke from veneer would be next to nothing, so you could get going with little else. A fan to blow the odd smoky wisp out of the window would suffice to test if you like the process.
Holding thin veneer? How about masking tape onto an old baking tray, or sheet of aluminium as a short-term bodge.

Whilst I appreciate your imagination, and bonding veneer to an FDM base is not a bad idea.
Is it as good as laser cut ply or better than FDM as is?

Cheers,

James

 

[Martin Wynne]

Is it as good as laser cut ply or better than FDM as is?

@James Walters

Hi James,

I'm very happy with FDM as-is. I think when carefully painted and ballasted the lack of wood grain is hardly noticeable at any normal viewing distance for running lines. For old distressed track in sidings and yards some splits and cracks can be done with chisels and scrapers and maybe a knife blade attached to a soldering iron.

All I'm looking for is an inexpensive solution to offer folks when they complain that FDM doesn't have wood grain.

I have been experimenting with some gcode to scratch random marks into the timbers using the FDM nozzle at around 140 degsC. It's not there yet but it might develop into something, if I had a bit more time to tinker with it. But the chair heaving calls ...

cheers,

Martin.

 

[RBTKraisee]

A quick and cheap way of applying wood grain is to use a small wire brush. I've got some of these:

You can easily trim the brush heads down if you need.

If you want the grain effect a little more pronounced, apply a bit of paint on the top of the sleepers, when nearly-dry it is even easier to scratch marks into than the plastic.

Ross.

 

[Martin Wynne]

@Phil G

Another day, yet more boxes:

And the result is slider ribs between switch timbers S1 and S2, and between S3 and S4:

You can have up to 5 sets of switch slider ribs, for long switches which need more than one drive (tie-bars and/or prototype stretcher bars/rods).

Enter the first timber number in the boxes, and the ribs will appear between that timber and the next one. Leave blank if not wanted.

You could add the ribs to any timbers, not only switch timbers -- but I can't see any likely need for that.

Switch timbers count S1, S2, ... from the toe timber (the one with the blade tips and soleplate). To see all the timber numbers, start the shove timbers function.

More about the switch slider ribs at:

https://85a.uk/templot/club/index.php?threads/experimental-plug-track-continued.673/post-7628

Will be in 244a shortly.

cheers,

Martin.

 

[Michael Woods]

@Phil G

Another day, yet more boxes:

View attachment 8498

View attachment 8497

And the result is slider ribs between switch timbers S1 and S2, and between S3 and S4:

View attachment 8496

You can have up to 5 sets of switch slider ribs, for long switches which need more than one drive (tie-bar).

Enter the first timber number in the boxes, and the ribs will appear between that timber and the next one. Leave blank if not wanted.

You could add the ribs to any timbers, not only switch timbers -- but I can't see any likely need for that.

Switch timbers count S1, S2, ... from the toe timber (the one with the blade tips and soleplate). To see all the timber numbers, start the shove timbers function.

More about the switch slider ribs at:

https://85a.uk/templot/club/index.php?threads/experimental-plug-track-continued.673/post-7628

Will be in 244a shortly.

cheers,

Martin.

Martin that is really helpful particularly across two pairs of Timbers.......not rushing - just enquiring will any chair shoving be available in 244a?

 

[Martin Wynne]

Martin that is really helpful particularly across two pairs of Timbers.......not rushing - just enquiring will any chair shoving be available in 244a?

@Michael Woods

Hi Michael,

That's a good question. At present the chair heaving works only to omit individual chairs. I'm hoping to get more than that working, but it's not there yet and I know several folks are waiting for 244a for some of the other new features, so I don't want to delay it too long.

This is where I have got to, but there is a lot more still to do to make it all work, and save in the BOX file:

Whatever happens, there won't be any new chairs in 244a. They will have to wait until the heaving is done.

cheers,

Martin.

 

[Phil G]

@Phil G

Another day, yet more boxes:

View attachment 8498

View attachment 8497

And the result is slider ribs between switch timbers S1 and S2, and between S3 and S4:

View attachment 8496

You can have up to 5 sets of switch slider ribs, for long switches which need more than one drive (tie-bars and/or prototype stretcher bars/rods).

Enter the first timber number in the boxes, and the ribs will appear between that timber and the next one. Leave blank if not wanted.

You could add the ribs to any timbers, not only switch timbers -- but I can't see any likely need for that.

Switch timbers count S1, S2, ... from the toe timber (the one with the blade tips and soleplate). To see all the timber numbers, start the shove timbers function.

More about the switch slider ribs at:

https://85a.uk/templot/club/index.php?threads/experimental-plug-track-continued.673/post-7628

Will be in 244a shortly.

cheers,

Martin.

Excellent work Martin,
I have been holding off doing anything more with the sliders as I recall you mentioned you were going to mod the slider rib values slightly. its great that there will be provision for all stretcher bars.
cheers
Phil

 

[Phil G]

Whatever happens, there won't be any new chairs in 244a. They will have to wait until the heaving is done.

Makes total sense, after all, new chairs with no way to manipulate them wont be of much use,
keep up the good work Martin, your doing a wonderful job.
cheers
Phil,

 

[Michael Woods]

@Michael Woods

Hi Michael,

That's a good question. At present the chair heaving works only to omit individual chairs. I'm hoping to get more than that working, but it's not there yet and I know several folks are waiting for 244a for some of the other new features, so I don't want to delay it too long.

This is where I have got to, but there is a lot more still to do to make it all work, and save in the BOX file:


View attachment 8502


Whatever happens, there won't be any new chairs in 244a. They will have to wait until the heaving is done.

cheers,

Martin.

Martin - removing chairs is what I need for my catch points so I am happy.

 

[Michael Woods]

Martin - I have done something wrong here. I was not thinking and increased the gauge widening on the checkrails through the flangeway adjustments on gauge "modify settings" and not on the 3D adjustments. I set the flangeway from 0.7mm to 1mm. Effectively I now have a V crossing flangeway of 1mm not 0.7mm but I suspect that this error may have impacted more than just the flangeway crossing chairs.

1mm is ok with the check rails but it was only when I put the V together did I notice that I had done something wrong.

I want to reprint as little as possible. Can you please suggest the chairs would have been impacted by the error? I can then look to see what I can keep and what I reprint.

I should add that it is a curved turnout hence the widening.

Thank you in advance.

 

[Phil G]

Hi Michael,
You can already omit chairs in the current version, for the purposes of making a catch point.
g to real shove timber sand the chair heaving
cheers
Phil,

 

[Martin Wynne]

Martin - I have done something wrong here. I was not thinking and increased the gauge widening on the checkrails through the flangeway adjustments on gauge "modify settings" and not on the 3D adjustments. I set the flangeway from 0.7mm to 1mm. Effectively I now have a V crossing flangeway of 1mm not 0.7mm but I suspect that this error may have impacted more than just the flangeway crossing chairs.

1mm is ok with the check rails but it was only when I put the V together did I notice that I had done something wrong.

I want to reprint as little as possible. Can you please suggest the chairs would have been impacted by the error? I can then look to see what I can keep and what I reprint.

I should add that it is a curved turnout hence the widening.

Thank you in advance.

View attachment 8504

Wow. That stopped me in my tracks. I think I made a big mistake when starting on the 3D chairing experiments in assuming that everyone likely to be following them would be well-versed in Templot and track building. Putting that right all through Templot could be a lot of work.

I'm making an emergency change to the wording, and will get the next update out as soon as possible:

This is a wording change only -- no change to the actual functions.

---

@Michael Woods

Hi Michael,

I'm sorry you have a problem. You will need to re-make these 3 chairs:

using the original 0.71mm flangeway setting for S scale.

The new chairs will be shorter, which means the existing sockets will be too long. However you may be able to use the existing base if you fix the chairs with a gap-filling adhesive such as epoxy, carefully ensuring the chairs are centralized in the socket.

Reducing the crossing-flangeway gap will also move the position of the knuckle bend, needing the wing rails to be re-made. This will also likely cause the right-most chair above to change from XN to ZY type which is narrower, and will therefore need some filler in the sides of the socket too.

If instead you prefer to make a new timbering base and this V-crossing is a regular type, making a new base from a new template with a reduced flangeway gap will cause it to be slightly longer than the previous template. To avoid disrupting your track plan, you could get it to match the length of the previous one by increasing the crossing entry straight using the SHIFT+F11 mouse action.

I hope this problem isn't too much of a setback for you.

Martin.

 

[Michael Woods]

Wow. That stopped me in my tracks. I think I made a big mistake when starting on the 3D chairing experiments in assuming that everyone likely to be following them would be well-versed in Templot and track building. Putting that right all through Templot could be a lot of work.

I'm making an emergency change to the wording, and will get the next update out as soon as possible:


View attachment 8506


This is a wording change only -- no change to the actual functions.

---

@Michael Woods

Hi Michael,

I'm sorry you have a problem. You will need to re-make these 3 chairs:


View attachment 8507

using the original 0.71mm flangeway setting for S scale.

The new chairs will be shorter, which means the existing sockets will be too long. However you may be able to use the existing base if you fix the chairs with a gap-filling adhesive such as epoxy, carefully ensuring the chairs are centralized in the socket.

Reducing the crossing-flangeway gap will also move the position of the knuckle bend, needing the wing rails to be re-made. This will also likely cause the right-most chair to change from XN to ZY type which is narrower, and will therefore need some filler in the sides of the socket too.

If instead you prefer to make a new timbering base and this V-crossing is a regular type, making a new base from a new template with a reduced flangeway gap will cause it to be slightly longer than the previous one. To avoid disrupting your track plan, you could get it to match the length of the previous one by increasing the crossing entry straight using the SHIFT+F11 mouse action.

I hope this problem isn't too much of a setback for you.

Martin.

Martin - thank you - no it is not a significant problem nor a set back. My workshop is full of test pieces I was simply interested in what the changes would be. I think that the best course of action is to remake not adopt. Turnout length is fortunately not a problem as the track is a constant radius so I just reduce one of the curves.

As always thank you for your help!

 

[Michael Woods]

Making progress....I have 10 baseboard joints to navigate. I think that the chairs will be strong enough to simply support cutting the rail with no additional support - I may just add a bit of epoxy resin to strengthen the chair join with the timbers either side of the joins - should not need it as they are a tight fit but just in case.

 

[Phil G]

Hi Michael,
I see from your photo your using what look like laser cut baseboards. Do they have any sort of dowel location for each baseboard joint?
cheers
Phil

 

[Michael Woods]

Hi Michael,
I see from your photo your using what look like laser cut baseboards. Do they have any sort of dowel location for each baseboard joint?
cheers
Phil

Phil - I put the answer here so not to distract from this thread:

https://www.rmweb.co.uk/forums/topic/168559-s-scale-in-3d-whats-on-the-printer/page/3/#comments

 

[Martin Wynne]

.
Just a reminder about the reminders function.

reminders can be set to any colour, which would make them very handy for keeping notes about the templates in a timbering brick, and which chairs are on which raft. Info about reminders at this old topic from 2017:

https://85a.uk/templot/archive/topics/topic_3124.php#p22792


At present I used the symbols function to show the current chair jaw settings, but I think that might be better done using reminders.

Martin.

 

[Phil G]

Hi
Michael,
all good, by the way the reason for the question here was, simply it directly realties to how good your plug track alignment will be.
cheers
Phil

 

[RBTKraisee]

Hi Martin,
I know how crazy busy you are on Templot, and the last thing I want to do is put any pressure on, but I am curious; do you have any sort of schedule in mind for implementing the missing chairs to make plug track diamonds and slips work?

Cheers,

Ross.

 

[Martin Wynne]

Hi Martin,
I know how crazy busy you are on Templot, and the last thing I want to do is put any pressure on, but I am curious; do you have any sort of schedule in mind for implementing the missing chairs to make plug track diamonds and slips work?

Cheers,

Ross.

@RBTKraisee

Hi Ross,

Templot is my hobby. I do it for fun. I don't do schedules.

But I'm hoping that I shall have the chairs for fixed K-crossings done in the next few months, ideally in good time for Scaleforum in September -- but see also:

https://85a.uk/templot/club/index.php?threads/open-source-again.839/post-10191

Fixed K-crossings mean that diamonds 1:8 and shorter will be possible, and with the half-bolted chairs also most outside-slips (and tandems).

Inside-slips require some additional special chairs, and the requirement for over-scale flangeways (in 00/EM/0-MF, etc.) turns them into a minefield. Some significant departures from the prototype may be necessary. Don't expect them any time soon, and perhaps only in P4/S/S7 etc. initially.

However, quite soon in 244a I'm hoping to have the chair heaving done:

It will then be possible to swap any chair to the SC fictional type. Which is fully customizable for size, and can be exported with the chair jaws missing. So that other scratch-modified jaws can be assembled and glued around the rails as necessary. Exactly what this will allow remains to be discovered, but typically inside slips should be possible done that way in the short term. But I'm not going to spend hours and hours explaining it -- folks will have to know what they want and work it out for themselves.

cheers,

Martin.

 

[RBTKraisee]

Thanks Martin!

I look forward to all these developments, as time allows!

Ross.